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12-10-2016, 07:07 PM | #1 |
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Stripped bolt
So I was swapping out my tires for the winter, and I get to the last tire. One of the bolts wouldn't budge, so I extended the handle to get more leverage and there goes head of the bolt. Stripped. I'm figuring whoever tightened the bolts last over torqued it. Any suggestions?
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12-11-2016, 10:32 AM | #2 |
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May try using an extractor to get it out. Had to use that when I broke my caliper bolt on my Titan
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12-11-2016, 04:23 PM | #4 |
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he said the head bolt broke off so i'm assuming all that's left is the broken stud which if he uses an extractor it's a possibility he can take it out (cross fingers)
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12-11-2016, 04:27 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
There goes head of bolt. Stripped. I'm not sure if he meant the head broke off or it just spins. Sounds like he may need to soak that in some lubricant before trying to extract. Could be a tough one.
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12-11-2016, 09:23 PM | #7 |
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Depending on how daring you are, you can drill into it and use and extractor as others have said. Maybe also cut a slot into it?
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12-12-2016, 06:46 PM | #8 |
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I wonder if something like this would work
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bol...tsman+bolt+out |
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12-12-2016, 08:26 PM | #9 |
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doesn't hurt to give it a try!
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12-13-2016, 05:41 AM | #10 |
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I'll let you known how it goes. Wish it was a bit warmer though.
What psi are people running on their winter tires? I've got 255/40/19 but the manual doesn't specify for this size tire. |
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12-13-2016, 08:42 AM | #11 |
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Just bring it to a good tire shop. They deal with these issues all the time. Just have a replacement bolt handy. I bet they get it done within 10 mins for you.
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12-19-2016, 07:26 PM | #13 |
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what happened?
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12-19-2016, 07:50 PM | #14 |
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The bolt/nut remover just cracked. I just started cranking on it and it just cracked in half. I probably should've heated it up a bit, but was afraid of damaging the rim with the heat gun.
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12-20-2016, 07:31 PM | #15 |
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That sucker was on there, took the guy 15 mins to get it off. He was about to give up until he tried 1 last time. Chipped the rim a bit, guess I'll be swapping those for the winter set next year, lol
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12-21-2016, 03:20 AM | #16 |
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well good to hear you got it off!
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12-27-2016, 01:40 AM | #17 |
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In the future, remember that the tightening torque on the wheel nuts should be 140 NM, around 100 ft lbs of torque. EVERY time you have the tires worked on, go home, bring out your torque wrench and SET your torque properly. Even BMW dealership never does this right, or rarely. Having over tightened lug nuts can cause the problem you experienced, warped rotors and not having the ability to change out a flat tire if you go away from Run Flats. I would also recommend that if you live in an area that has snow and salts the roads, that you ensure you user Neverseize on the area where the Hub makes contact with the rim (NOTHING ON THE LUG NUTS). What I have seen is that the hub and rim contact area will rust and make it damn hard to remove the rim after all the lug nuts are removed. I use a fine sandpaper to take off the rust that is there and use a LIGHT amount of neverseize on the hub/rim contact area and you will not experience any rust lock from it.
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12-29-2016, 07:53 AM | #18 |
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Thanks for the advice! When I take the snow shoes off I plan on putting spacers, I'll get rid of the rust and put some neverseize on. Noticed the rust and the extra knock on the tire to get to pop off.
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01-02-2017, 01:32 AM | #19 |
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Yes and it only gets worse with time. I have helped others where it took a good half hour of banging, kicking and fighting before getting the tire off. One would think the car companies would use a teflon coating or a never seize compound themselves on this, But then again, BMW won't even allow us to have derive manuals. Lol
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