[Cali_MSport]

So I'm driving a 2011 F10 528i with the N52T engine with 110k miles on the clock. Got the car cheap with some issue with the vanos actuators and timing which was repaired for free at my local dealership. I got lucky and there was some extended warranty that covered the repair
The problem with the car now and it's done this ever since I picked it up but now it's doing it much more frequently. The car when I'm at a stop light idling I feel this thud or knock but it doesn't make a noise I just feel the car thud. It seems to come from right beneath the drivers seat I can feel it in the brake pedal as well. It feels almost like when you shift from park to drive but rougher. It used to have once a day but now when I'm at the light it will do this several times. I have also noticed that if I try to accelerate while I'm turning the car does not accelerate but it like cuts out kinda feels like running out of gas kind of cutting out only the car will shake a bit and you continue to gas it hard you will get a check engine light and drivetrain malfunction. I did run ista on it and came up with several errors but I'm sure what this stuff means and I barely know how to use ista but here is some screen shots. Any advice would be appreciated. I know that ista reports that my battery is bad but the car starts perfectly and I'm not getting any battery lights on the dash or errors on the idrive it seems fine to me idk

[ezaircon4jc]

A bad battery will cause all kinds of problems; even to the point of killing the alternator. Replace and register the battery then see what happens.

[Cali_MSport]

Thank you for the reply !! I'm pretty sure that the battery is good other than once while detailing my interior I let the battery drain because I was listening to the radio and kept turning the interior lights on after they would go to sleep. I think this is why the error shows in ista. I will go the battery house here in town and have them test it or I just replaced the battery in my 2013 750li maybe I'll pull that battery and slap it in 5 series since the battery in the 7 series isn't registered anyways. I couldn't old Daten files for the 7 into any of my software for some reason. Actually I guess I need to buy a battery for the 5 series so it can be registered ?? If I get an identical battery though registration is still needed ?

[Cali_MSport]

I may have a bad battery actually while driving my check Engine light illuminated so I pulled over at O'Reilly's auto had a code read it was P13B4 - crankshaft inlet camshaft reference angle difference. I don't know if a weak battery could cause that to happen but I did notice while scanning the codes the car wouldn't stay on in accessory mode and the battery light on the idrive did come on. I also noticed what sounds like a bearing going out under the hood that I think may be the pulley on the alternator. Unless that noise is a symptom or the crankshaft camshaft error or maybe something physically damaged again like the vanos actuator which had previously had a bolt fall off of the back side and caused all kinds of havoc to the timing chain. When the dealer fixed that issue under extended warranty I found the that they had left the spark plug just sitting In cylinder #2 it wasn't even threaded in it came out with the coil. I hadn't felt anything noticeable as far as misfire goes so I thought that was strange also. I'm gong to the battery house right now see about this battery and alternator

[Cali_MSport]

So I do have a bad alternator it was tested by a battery house that doesnt sell alternators. He said it needed to be replaced. I will have a second test done or test it with a multimeter myself. My question is could this cause the code the code I got for the crankshaft I let camshaft sensor angle difference ? Also the thud I'm feeling under my drivers seat when idling at a stop light sometimes immediately stops if I put the car in park if it doesn't stop it calms it down a bunch at least so I'm thinking this could be transmission related. Anyone have any idea where to start on this ??