[s_ribs]

Long shot- have your alignments been done at the same place each time? I wonder if their equipment might be out of calibration or doing something wrong. If it is your alignment I would assume it's toe'd out to feel twitchy.

For whatever it's worth, here is my alignment from a month or so ago:


(Not sure why the print out it say's it is lowered, it's not)

[smokinu454]

Originally Posted by s_ribs

Long shot- have your alignments been done at the same place each time? I wonder if their equipment might be out of calibration or doing something wrong. If it is your alignment I would assume it's toe'd out to feel twitchy.

For whatever it's worth, here is my alignment from a month or so ago:


(Not sure why the print out it say's it is lowered, it's not)

Thanks for the reply. So the alignment has actually been done at 3 different shops. Every time they have set the front toe in to about .08 each side, rear camber -2.0 each side, rear toe in .15 each side, caster cant be adjusted on the f10 i dont think but mine is 6.4/6.3 and front camber was +0.1 and +0.3. Ive had it aligned after every part has been replaced. I have been thinking about taking it back and telling them to set front and rear toe as far in as possible while still remaining in spec (.18 each side front, .25 each side rear) to see if that helps. I think that may be my next step.

[B-Buster]

Stays alignment in spec when you have it checked after driving for a bit?

I'd stop throwing new parts towards that car until a decent diagnosis on what is wrong has been done.

Ask them to measure if the distance between the front and rear wheel is the same left and right, also if the front and rear axle are in center of each other. Every decent Hunter alignment system can pull up this information, however it's not in the standard procedure.

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by smokinu454

Update: Car is still very unsteady/not planted/twitchy on the highway, feels like there is constantly a cross wind.

My local indy has no advice. The local dealer said they thought it was the steering rack but couldn't say for sure. We replaced the steering rack, and did alignment #5 , not the problem.

So far I have replaced all front control arms, sway bar, sway bar links, tie rods, tie rod ends, entire steering rack, all rear control arms except the large lower arms. I have also installed another entire set of wheels and tires.

I've had the car on jacks more time than I can count and still cannot find anything loose.

I'm about at the end of my rope with it.

I thought I read here somewhere that the answer could be rotating the front shocks. I could very well be wrong; I am married...

[smokinu454]

Originally Posted by B-Buster

Stays alignment in spec when you have it checked after driving for a bit?

I'd stop throwing new parts towards that car until a decent diagnosis on what is wrong has been done.

Ask them to measure if the distance between the front and rear wheel is the same left and right, also if the front and rear axle are in center of each other. Every decent Hunter alignment system can pull up this information, however it's not in the standard procedure.

I have all of the previous alignment sheets and it does appear to hold alignment as far as I can tell aside from the times that I have changed out components that I would expect to throw it off.

I will try to ask them to dig a little deeper on the alignment, I get the feeling ill have to go to a dealer further away, this dealer is giving me answers like "you can keep bringing it back but its unlikely that we will find anything" So I don't imagine they will actually do what I ask but I will give them one more shot. With a tape measure it does appear that the front to rear hub is the same on both sides but thats as in depth as I can answer myself.

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

I thought I read here somewhere that the answer could be rotating the front shocks. I could very well be wrong; I am married...

Is this really a possible fix/problem? I do feel like i've heard of this once before but not sure where or in what context. Is that just raising the car and rotating the spring on the strut a certain amount?

[smokinu454]

I got to thinking about ride height and the way my previous f10s were both m sport suspensions. I took sand bags and added about 400lbs to the car evenly distributed and made my hour interstate drive. Surprisingly the car drives a lot better. A few things come to mind. Does the car riding half an inch lower help? Or maybe the alignment changes a little for the better as the suspension geometry lowers? It doesn’t fix it but it drives at least 50% better.

[smokinu454]

Local Indy says worn shocks can cause this as well, at 94k miles a new set couldnt hurt. At this point what else could it be LOL. Will be installing a new set of Bilstein B8 shocks along with new strut mounts and a set of H&R OE sport springs to lower it down 1" and stiffen it up a little to get back to the S0704 suspension I wish the car came with. Will update this thread in a few weeks and hopefully be done!

[ChiNorm]

My indy says B8 shocks are VERY stiff. You may be happier with the B6.

Good luck.

[s_ribs]

According to Bilstein B6 should be same damper as B8. B8 has a shorter shaft for lowering springs.
https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/bl...nd-bilstein-b8

[smokinu454]

Originally Posted by ChiNorm

My indy says B8 shocks are VERY stiff. You may be happier with the B6.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up! Honestly I've always preferred a pretty stiff suspension. Our roads are in kept in pretty good shape so its usually smooth sailing anyways.