[Stevo_N63]

not exactly impressed this weekend when I ran my car at island. DINAN stage 3 software and a full exhaust.[IMG][/IMG]

[Mbbrewer]

Yea that's pretty bad. With an xi your 60ft time should be 1.7-1.8 and your e.t. Should be 12.3-12.5 at ~110mph. For reference My rwd 550i with Dinan stage 2 with stock Run flats ran 12.6 at 111 mph with a best 60 ft of 2.1.

Couple things are wrong here:

1) your tune is not installed.
2) learn how to launch an awd car

[Stevo_N63]

any special technique other than sport+ and a decent brake boost to about 2-3k?

also this may not affect much but it was 85% humidity

[M6NIAC]

Reaction time is not that good mate... Also are you shifting yourself or are you letting your car do it? Has your car been at a dyno?

[Gpfarrell]

Reaction times will help a slower car beat a faster car but they won't make a given car faster.

[Stevo_N63]

Originally Posted by Arko528

Reaction time is not that good mate... Also are you shifting yourself or are you letting your car do it? Has your car been at a dyno?

putting it in sport shift, still auto. no, my car hasn't seen a dyno

[upstate650]

I would change your plugs and injectors and replace vacuum lines. The N63 motor is notorious for those problems and they rob power. You should be much, much faster than that.

[SLVSRFR]

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

I would change your plugs and injectors and replace vacuum lines. The N63 motor is notorious for those problems and they rob power. You should be much, much faster than that.

He's running stock times meaning the tune isn't working as it should or not installed at all. If his plugs, injectors, or lines were the issue he would be throwing Drivetrain Malfunctions due to misfires.

[M6NIAC]

Originally Posted by Stevo_N63

putting it in sport shift, still auto. no, my car hasn't seen a dyno

I suggest you manually shift, it makes a big difference.. Also you should take it to a dyno.... There might be something holding your car back and killing time get it properly tuned that way your car is performing 100%. Figure out where your peak boost is as well!!!

[AmooManiak]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

He's running stock times meaning the tune isn't working as it should or not installed at all. If his plugs, injectors, or lines were the issue he would be throwing Drivetrain Malfunctions due to misfires.

That ET and trap speed are well below stock times I've seen.

[upstate650]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

He's running stock times meaning the tune isn't working as it should or not installed at all. If his plugs, injectors, or lines were the issue he would be throwing Drivetrain Malfunctions due to misfires.

eventually it will start throwing codes, but not until the very end. Its just a slow decrease in power until then.

[Stück]

DINAN <------ Your problem.

[Stevo_N63]

Went to my Dinan dealer and the tune must have been taken off from a recent service. Thanks for all the advice everyone

[SLVSRFR]

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

eventually it will start throwing codes, but not until the very end. Its just a slow decrease in power until then.

No. You don't just gradually lose power from failing plugs/coils. Don't mean to insult your intelligence or anything but that's not how spark plugs or ignition coils work. A failing spark plug, will intermittently not produce a spark which causes a 'hiccup' in the continuous ignition of the air/fuel in the combustion chamber. This hiccup is known as a misfire on the corresponding cylinder which WILL trigger a DTM, CEL, or both. Or your car will crank longer on startups or if it's more serious, not start at all. But your car will tell you if either are bad, whether it's coil or plugs, troubleshooting is a different process.

[M6NIAC]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

No. You don't just gradually lose power from failing plugs/coils. Don't mean to insult your intelligence or anything but that's not how spark plugs or ignition coils work. A failing spark plug, will intermittently not produce a spark which causes a 'hiccup' in the continuous ignition of the air/fuel in the combustion chamber. This hiccup is known as a misfire on the corresponding cylinder which WILL trigger a DTM, CEL, or both. Or your car will crank longer on startups or if it's more serious, not start at all. But your car will tell you if either are bad, whether it's coil or plugs, troubleshooting is a different process.

^^^^

[upstate650]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

No. You don't just gradually lose power from failing plugs/coils. Don't mean to insult your intelligence or anything but that's not how spark plugs or ignition coils work. A failing spark plug, will intermittently not produce a spark which causes a 'hiccup' in the continuous ignition of the air/fuel in the combustion chamber. This hiccup is known as a misfire on the corresponding cylinder which WILL trigger a DTM, CEL, or both. Or your car will crank longer on startups or if it's more serious, not start at all. But your car will tell you if either are bad, whether it's coil or plugs, troubleshooting is a different process.

Have you had an N63 or S63 motor go through the dripping injectors, bad plugs leaking vacuum lines and timing chain issues? Because I have and it absolutely does start robbing power before the check engine lights and limp mode starts.

But before that it will crank longer on startup, and you will get a little black exhaust and soot on your tailpipes.

Unless you have had this happen, and then experienced the completely different vehicle that emerges after they fix everything, you are insulting my intelligence. One would presume that misfires would immediately trigger retained codes and CEL's, but they dont. I complained about long starts, black smoke and loss of power in my X5M for months and they hooked it up to the computers and found nothing. Until it started going into limp mode.

[SLVSRFR]

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

Have you had an N63 or S63 motor go through the dripping injectors, bad plugs leaking vacuum lines and timing chain issues? Because I have and it absolutely does start robbing power before the check engine lights and limp mode starts.

But before that it will crank longer on startup, and you will get a little black exhaust and soot on your tailpipes.

Unless you have had this happen, and then experienced the completely different vehicle that emerges after they fix everything, you are insulting my intelligence. One would presume that misfires would immediately trigger retained codes and CEL's, but they dont. I complained about long starts, black smoke and loss of power in my X5M for months and they hooked it up to the computers and found nothing. Until it started going into limp mode.

I'm not saying plugs wasn't an issue for you, you clearly had many issues causing you to lose power. I've dealt with similar issues in my N63.

I honestly do not mean any ill intention, just clearing misconceptions that you are insinuating.

To answer your question, yes I have, and it was caused by bad plugs and coils which were all eventually replaced under CCP and every single time there was a misfire it threw a CEL or Drivetrain Malfunction (DTM) because that's how plugs and coils work. My car was out of commission for a month and was taken to 2 different dealerships, 75 miles apart just to diagnose the problem as they refused to admit that their brand new coils they installed were bad as I originally suggested. It wasn't until the dealership 75 miles from me, got it right. There is no changing the dynamics of the engine. If a plug or coil is bad THE ENGINE WILL MISFIRE. I can't stress that enough, you either ignite the fuel in that chamber or you don't, there is no in between. You will know if 1 of your cylinders stop igniting due to a bad plug/coil, because you'll lose power and the engine will bog and run like garbage IMMEDIATELY. You do not gradually lose power from plugs or coils alone. Timing chain issues is completely different from coil and plugs issues, you've completely changed the basis of your disposition. Do all the research you want. A misfire will throw a CEL or if it's slight, just a DTM, especially in a BMW. They are extremely sensitive when it comes to sensors, knock sensors, O2 sensors, etc. Many times when I had bad coils on bank 2, I would throw DTM's that would go away within a mile of driving. Pull the code and low and behold...misfire. You clearly had a myriad of other issues causing you to lose power i.e INJECTORS. Which i'm sure was the main cause of your loss of power because your engine wasn't getting the fuel to ignite in that cylinder in the first place, especially since you had black smoke. Which is a huge indicator of unburned fuel being dumped into the exhaust which burns black.

I guess what I'm trying to say is...each problem had a different distinct symptom, so you can't blame each symptom on ALL parts collectively just because that's what BMW changed for YOU. BMW identified you had different problems with different distinct symptoms and fixed all of them for you because that's why the CCP was incorporated.

BACK TO THE TOPIC..

The OP was never losing power in the first place, he was running stock times. Which means the base power is there and as he stated, he found out that his tune wasn't installed.

[upstate650]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

I'm not saying plugs wasn't an issue for you, you clearly had many issues causing you to lose power. I've dealt with similar issues in my N63.

I honestly do not mean any ill intention, just clearing misconceptions that you are insinuating.

To answer your question, yes I have, and it was caused by bad plugs and coils which were all eventually replaced under CCP and every single time there was a misfire it threw a CEL or Drivetrain Malfunction (DTM) because that's how plugs and coils work. My car was out of commission for a month and was taken to 2 different dealerships, 75 miles apart just to diagnose the problem as they refused to admit that their brand new coils they installed were bad as I originally suggested. It wasn't until the dealership 75 miles from me, got it right. There is no changing the dynamics of the engine. If a plug or coil is bad THE ENGINE WILL MISFIRE. I can't stress that enough, you either ignite the fuel in that chamber or you don't, there is no in between. You will know if 1 of your cylinders stop igniting due to a bad plug/coil, because you'll lose power and the engine will bog and run like garbage IMMEDIATELY. You do not gradually lose power from plugs or coils alone. Timing chain issues is completely different from coil and plugs issues, you've completely changed the basis of your disposition. Do all the research you want. Plugs and coils will NOT CAUSE you to gradually lose power. A misfire will throw a CEL or if it's slight, just a DTM, especially in a BMW. They are extremely sensitive when it comes to sensors, knock sensors, O2 sensors, etc. Many times when I had bad coils on bank 2, I would throw DTM's that would go away within a mile of driving. Pull the code and low and behold...misfire. You clearly had a myriad of other issues causing you to lose power i.e INJECTORS. Which i'm sure was the main cause of your loss of power because your engine wasn't getting the fuel to ignite in that cylinder in the first place, especially since you had black smoke. Which is a huge indicator of unburned fuel being dumped into the exhaust which burns black.

I guess what I'm trying to say is...each problem had a different distinct symptom, so you can't blame each symptom on ALL parts collectively just because that's what BMW changed for YOU. BMW identified you had different problems with different distinct symptoms and fixed all of them for you because that's why the CCP was incorporated.

BACK TO THE TOPIC..

The OP was never losing power in the first place, he was running stock times. Which means the base power is there and as he stated, he found out that his tune wasn't installed.

I never said it was all due to coils. I listed several areas for him to look at. You honed in coils. I didn't change my argument at all. In fact, I wasn't arguing. But if you feel the need to pick a fight please read all of it first.

[SLVSRFR]

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

I never said it was all due to coils. I listed several areas for him to look at. You honed in coils. I didn't change my argument at all. In fact, I wasn't arguing. But if you feel the need to pick a fight please read all of it first.

I read it very clearly let me break it down for you and I'll quote you.

You insinuated a loss of power (which the OP didn't even have!) is related to plugs, injectors, timing chain, and vacuum lines. Which in fact, all 4 of those have 4 DIFFERENT distinct symptoms. Bolded false statements below:

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

I would change your plugs and injectors and replace vacuum lines. The N63 motor is notorious for those problems and they rob power. You should be much, much faster than that.

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

Have you had an N63 or S63 motor go through the dripping injectors, bad plugs leaking vacuum lines and timing chain issues? Because I have and it absolutely does start robbing power before the check engine lights and limp mode starts.

I honed in coils because you cant say a spark plug is bad without troubleshooting the coil, that's basic troubleshooting knowledge. If a cylinder stops igniting, you will feel it immediately. As I said above, troubleshooting plugs/coils or slow failing injectors is a tough process because some of the symptoms are similar with misfires and starting issues. However, bad injectors is usually accompanied by loss of power at WOT, black smoke coming out the exhaust due to the excess fuel being burned, or the plug for that cylinder will be covered in fuel. Timing chains and vacuum lines have notorious symptoms but i'll get to that later.

Originally Posted by upstateX5M

eventually it will start throwing codes, but not until the very end. Its just a slow decrease in power until then.

You assumed since BMW changed all those parts because of your issues that it's all related to gradual loss of power, which they are not. Suggesting people to change parts that have nothing to do with a problem they have is counter-productive and a waste of money. He never deemed he had loss of power and yet clearly passing information you have no idea about.

Actual symptoms for what you claim:
Vacuum leak: Car will stall, loud hissing from engine area.
Timing Chain: Multiple misfires, metal shavings found in the oil, and rattling sounds from the engine while idling.
Injectors: Plug will be covered in fuel, poor idle, starting issues, poor performance, slow acceleration, 'bucking' under WOT, engine won't reach full RPM, black smoke coming from tailpipe

Just by deductive reasoning or a simple google search it would be pretty obvious that if the OP had any of these issues, he would know something wasn't right. And I'm sure the last thing he would be posting/worrying about is his 1/4 mile times.

I'm not arguing, I just see many times how people pass on misconceptions based off the experiences they had that are no way related to the subject at hand.

Anyway, the OP fixed his issue, so I'm done here.

[Mbbrewer]

Originally Posted by SLVSRFR

I read it very clearly let me break it down for you and I'll quote you.

You insuated a loss of power (which the OP didn't even have!) is related to plugs, injectors, timing chain, and vacuum lines. Which in fact, all 4 of those have 4 DIFFERENT distinct symptoms. Bolded false statements below:

I honed in coils because you cant say a spark plug is bad without troubleshooting the coil, that's basic troubleshooting knowledge. If a cylinder stops igniting, you will feel it immediately. As I said above, troubleshooting plugs/coils or slow failing injectors is a tough process because some of the symptoms are similar with misfires and starting issues. However, bad injectors is usually accompanied by loss of power at WOT, black smoke coming out the exhaust due to the excess fuel being burned, or the plug for that cylinder will be covered in fuel. Timing chains and vacuum lines have notorious symptoms but i'll get to that later.

You assumed since BMW changed all those parts because of your issues that it's all related to gradual loss of power, which they are not. Suggesting people to change parts that have nothing to do with a problem they have is counter-productive and a waste of money. He never deemed he had loss of power and yet clearly passing information you have no idea about.

Actual symptoms for what you claim:
Vacuum leak: Car will stall, loud hissing from engine area.
Timing Chain: Multiple misfires, metal shavings found in the oil, and rattling sounds from the engine while idling.
Injectors: Plug will be covered in fuel, poor idle, starting issues, poor performance, slow acceleration, 'bucking' under WOT, engine won't reach full RPM, black smoke coming from tailpipe

Just by deductive reasoning or a simple google search it would be pretty obvious that if the OP had any of these issues, he would know something wasn't right. And I'm sure the last thing he would be posting/worrying about is his 1/4 mile times.

I'm not arguing, I just see many times how people pass on misconceptions based off the experiences they had that are no way related to the subject at hand.

Anyway, the OP fixed his issue, so I'm done here.

Guys his tune wasn't reinstalled after a service. Holy threadjack.

[BlackWidow]

Originally Posted by Mbbrewer

Guys his tune wasn't reinstalled after a service. Holy threadjack.

+1

SLVSRFR suggested that in his first post lol all this wasnt necessary but good knowledge nonetheless. At least he knows what he's talking about.

[badblack550xi]

lets see your times with tune on, wont be impressive.