[Grover432]

Originally Posted by xs2man

I run run flat winters in the winter, coz I'm lazy, but not completely stupid. And non RFT's in the Summer. World of difference between the 2. With the non RFT's being MUCH better when the summer months are there. Not to mention cheaper.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to suggest you are stupid. I'm just trying to say that everyone has their priorities and mine are safety first, convenience second and performance third. Winter or summer, I can't be in a position where I'm not close to a dealer with a replacement tire if I get a flat. I go to the lake every weekend in the summer, if I have non run flats and no spare and I drive over a nail that can't be sealed properly, I can't be borrowing a car to drive into the city to get a tire mounted and drive back out to put it on the car so I can drive my family in at the end of the 2 day weekend. I'd rather just give up a bit of performance and drive the 70 miles on the "holed" run flat and get it replaced when I get back in town. To each his own, I guess.

[xs2man]

I wasn't suggesting that you you were suggesting I was stupid. I agree with your comments that you don't want to be stranded, with kids in tow, in -35. That would be terrible. Which is why I run RFT winter tyres.

You might want to check the Bridgestone website for info on RFT's though...

How far can I drive after I am alerted to a deflated tyre?


On Bridgestone tyres with Run-Flat technology one can continue its travel for up to 80km (50 miles) at a maximum of 80 km/h (50 mph), unless otherwise specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Owners should consult their vehicle handbook for details.

So you wouldn't be able to make the 70 miles anyway. The tyres are simply not designed to run that far once damaged. So if that's your winning argument, then you are really as well off with non-RFT's anyway.

I would suggest carrying a spare wheel anyway if that's how far out your going to be regardless. And it is relatively easy to secure a spare wheel in the boot (trunk) of a car.

I once got 2 punctures on my 335d on normal tyres. I had hit a pot hole (read : Cenote). Wouldn't have mattered if I had RFT's or not, as the wheels were proper buckled, and would have been unsafe to continue with my months old child in the car. Recovery service called, no problems.

Once an RFT is damaged, that's it. Fooked. $400 or whatever to replace. Can of slime on a non RFT, and depending on where the puncture happened, it may be repairable. Otherwise, you may only be $200-300 to replace. And you'll have experienced almost the same amount of hassle either way.

Still, your mind is obviously made up regardless, so it's all moot. I too prioritise my tyres in the same manner, which is why I consider the performance of the tyre to be a safety issue though, as it's the only contact between the vehicle and the road surface, which is why I choose to run non-RFT when conditions allow, and Winter RFT in the winter months.

[Grover432]

Originally Posted by xs2man

I wasn't suggesting that you you were suggesting I was stupid. I agree with your comments that you don't want to be stranded, with kids in tow, in -35. That would be terrible. Which is why I run RFT winter tyres.

You might want to check the Bridgestone website for info on RFT's though...



So you wouldn't be able to make the 70 miles anyway. The tyres are simply not designed to run that far once damaged. So if that's your winning argument, then you are really as well off with non-RFT's anyway.

I would suggest carrying a spare wheel anyway if that's how far out your going to be regardless. And it is relatively easy to secure a spare wheel in the boot (trunk) of a car.

I once got 2 punctures on my 335d on normal tyres. I had hit a pot hole (read : Cenote). Wouldn't have mattered if I had RFT's or not, as the wheels were proper buckled, and would have been unsafe to continue with my months old child in the car. Recovery service called, no problems.

Once an RFT is damaged, that's it. Fooked. $400 or whatever to replace. Can of slime on a non RFT, and depending on where the puncture happened, it may be repairable. Otherwise, you may only be $200-300 to replace. And you'll have experienced almost the same amount of hassle either way.

Still, your mind is obviously made up regardless, so it's all moot. I too prioritise my tyres in the same manner, which is why I consider the performance of the tyre to be a safety issue though, as it's the only contact between the vehicle and the road surface, which is why I choose to run non-RFT when conditions allow, and Winter RFT in the winter months.

XS, I'm not trying to put forth a winning argument, just my preference. I understand yours too. Still I don't see a way to secure a spare wheel/tire in the trunk (boot) and have usable space. I'm also concerned about the thing trying to fly through the rear seat back (and my 2 kids) in the vent of a forward motion crash.

By the way, when the recovery service showed up did they tow your car in for service or fix it on site?

[xs2man]

They towed it. Well, stuck it on the back of a flatbed. They had to, as it was 2 buckled wheels, and I was over 50 miles from the dealer anyway. In the end, he just drove me home, and I changed the wheels on the car.

[richb811]

Originally Posted by carcrazy101

I am going to take delivery of my new fully loaded 528i next week. There seems to be a discrepancy (one of many) as to the tire size for the car. I ordered the M sport Line package which states a 19" tire when you read the specs on the Lines tab at the build your own webpage, but the selection on the exterior tab specifies an 18" tire. Which is correct and how much do I fight for the 19" tires?

I am so amazed as to the total lack of accurate information and knowledge regarding the details of the vehicle options not only from my dealer, but BMW in NJ as well. I have decided after this, my 3rd leased BMW that it will be my last. It may be time to revisit the Cadillac, Lexus or the Mercedes.

Thoughts?

If you want to know what is actually on your car, get the last 7 digits of you VIN and plug them in here : http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html

You'll be able to pull the wheel code that is currently installed on the car.

Also, check your order/build sheet and see if they specified on there the 19" Wheel. If you signed for a 19" and get an 18", you are in pretty good shape to get it switched at no charge.