[Stück]

OK so I recently put my car back together with a temporary Pre-LCI MSport steering wheel as it was a "no line" car and has the base crappy steering wheel.

I've been scoping out eBay looking for a reasonably priced LCI MSport wheel and found one to my liking for $200, dealer take off.



I did not notice that the wheel wasn't equipped with SAT paddles and I would have assumed that all of the wheels would be pre-drilled for them but this was not so. Using the paddle as a jig I marked the 2 holes on each side that needed to be drilled and went ahead and did it. The inboard hole is what fastens the paddle down while the outboard hole is an alignment tit. The outboard does not *need* to go all the way through but it doesn't matter if you do.



Here is the wheel almost fully assembled, this is where I realized I was short a few parts. I wrongly assumed the pre-LCI wheel would use the same control module and harness as the LCI wheel but they are not alike at all. Different connector blocking tangs, length, design etc. I had to go ahead and order those new, not too bad about $250 from the dealer for the control module and harness.



Here are the two wheels next to one another

[Stück]

Well this thread has been positively riveting with the replies.

A couple VOR SOP's later I have the correct steering wheel electronics box and wiring harness.

It all installed straight forward, the keyed connectors only fit one place and process of elimination does the rest. Harnesses are of length that they only tuck in out of the way one way too.

Module installed and wiring laced into place:


Closeup of the module and wiring:


Completely assembled and ready to install onto the car:


annnnd finally in, complete, done! Man this wheel looks killer!

[Stück]

[snj1013]

Nice. How much did you spend in total on the wheel, airbag and harness,etc? I recently upgraded my standard, crappy wheel to a pre LCI M Sport for roughly $150. Wheel was about $200, airbag about $300, sold old airbag for $275 and sold old wheel for just over $100.

[lsturbointeg]

Very nice! I will say when I had the //M 235i loaner BMW let me use the paddle shifters felt too "plastic" to the touch! I think it's all preference. Maybe the carbon fiber paddle shifters would feel better?

[Stück]

Lets see...

Steering wheel I found on eBay bare for $200
Airbag I bought BNIB for $500
Wiring and control module I bought brand new dealer for $260
Switches, paddles and trim I got for free.

So $960, sold pre-LCI wheel/airbag for $400. So $460 to upgrade.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Stück

Lets see...

Steering wheel I found on eBay bare for $200
Airbag I bought BNIB for $500
Wiring and control module I bought brand new dealer for $260
Switches, paddles and trim I got for free.

So $960, sold pre-LCI wheel/airbag for $400. So $460 to upgrade.

Dude that's AWESOME!

[Stück]

Well... lets talk about assumptions....

This evening I installed E-SYS with a guide from shawnsheridan who is a really helpful dude :-) I followed his guide on changing the FA to reflect the 2TB option and coded the EGS, KOMBI, ICM, and SZL.



My first drive attempt was a bust however....

Video:
http://vid1279.photobucket.com/album...psr2mfps7j.mp4

As soon as I put the car in drive it switched to Manual mode on its own and proceeded to rack through the gears until it was in M8. Off the line acceleration was turrrriiiibbbbllllee

It only took a few minutes of searching following my presumption a of what was going on to confirm I was right.

I assumed since the F30 paddle shifters looked identical, and the connectors were identical.... that they were identical.

Nope. They are, electrically anyway.. different.



Unfortunately I don't know what the nominal F10 resistor values are, but I was able to measure the F30 ones and the nominal values laser etched on the SMD resistors on the PCB match percisely.

F30 Down / - Paddle

Open/OFF 6.55kΩ
Closed/ON 349Ω

F30 UP / + Paddle
Open/OFF 6.17kΩ
Closed/ON 1.180kΩ





I'm willing to bet $383 (list price on the F10 paddle set 61317848968) that I can swap the SMD resistors on the F30 boards for ones matching F10 spec and uh... save like $380.


So.... begs the question... who is going to be my hero and has some LCI F10 paddles laying around they can read the values off of?

[Stück]

I got my hands on a pair of F10 LCI paddles to meter out, the specs I found are as follows:


F10 LCI DOWN / - Paddle
Open/OFF 0LMΩ (infinitely open)
Closed/ON 1.691kΩ

F10 LCI UP / + Paddle
Open/OFF 5.361kΩ
Closed/ON 2.297kΩ

Photo of the F10 LCI paddles showing resistor configuration on the PCB.



Now to go pickup 3 1206 package SMD resistors in the values needed and solder them onto my F30 paddles in the correct circuit configurations.

[snj1013]

Originally Posted by Stück

Lets see...

Steering wheel I found on eBay bare for $200
Airbag I bought BNIB for $500
Wiring and control module I bought brand new dealer for $260
Switches, paddles and trim I got for free.

So $960, sold pre-LCI wheel/airbag for $400. So $460 to upgrade.

Not bad but you didn't subtract correctly. $560 for the upgrade

[Stück]

lol, my bad there. Trying to post in between a bunch of other things at work. None the less a good price point for the retrofit, and I'm soo soo happy with the new wheel.

I'm going to R&R the resistors today and get the paddles working.

[chilly1961]

Originally Posted by Stück

lol, my bad there. Trying to post in between a bunch of other things at work. None the less a good price point for the retrofit, and I'm soo soo happy with the new wheel.

I'm going to R&R the resistors today and get the paddles working.

Hi what year was your car looking at up grading mine many thanks craig

[Stück]

My car is a 2014.

[mspired335i]

Originally Posted by Stück

My car is a 2014.

You are the man!. Saved me from doing a whole ton of research which the internet had very little answers too. I do have one other questions, did you buy lci paddles or did you swap your pre lci paddles over to the New lci wheel?.

[Stück]

I actually used LCI paddles, but they were from an F30. They had different resistors that had to be removed with new ones soldered in of the correct values.

[mspired335i]

Originally Posted by Stück

I actually used LCI paddles, but they were from an F30. They had different resistors that had to be removed with new ones soldered in of the correct values.

Could Non-LCI paddles be used or could the old paddles be transferred over from my pre lci wheel?. I also see some LCI m6 paddles for sale but I'm assuming I will have issues with those also, due to pull up resistance value correct?

[Stück]

Non-LCI will not fit the LCI steering wheel. Physically different size, shape and also electrically different.

M5/M6 paddles are also, again, completely different. Resistance values should carry over though LCI vs pre-LCI. The M6 paddles you're talking about if they are the ones I think they are... are only the paddle themselves, they lack the housing and electrical portion.

[dsolis88]

I am thinking of doing this build just without the paddles. Is it complicated to put together once you have all of the parts? Do you know if the f30 m sport LCI components like the buttons will fit onto the bare f10 wheel? I've found the control buttons on ebay for a good price but they are for the f30.

I got the bare wheel for free so really want to start on this project..

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Stück

OK so I recently put my car back together with a temporary Pre-LCI MSport steering wheel as it was a "no line" car and has the base crappy steering wheel.

I've been scoping out eBay looking for a reasonably priced LCI MSport wheel and found one to my liking for $200, dealer take off.



I did not notice that the wheel wasn't equipped with SAT paddles and I would have assumed that all of the wheels would be pre-drilled for them but this was not so. Using the paddle as a jig I marked the 2 holes on each side that needed to be drilled and went ahead and did it. The inboard hole is what fastens the paddle down while the outboard hole is an alignment tit. The outboard does not *need* to go all the way through but it doesn't matter if you do.



Here is the wheel almost fully assembled, this is where I realized I was short a few parts. I wrongly assumed the pre-LCI wheel would use the same control module and harness as the LCI wheel but they are not alike at all. Different connector blocking tangs, length, design etc. I had to go ahead and order those new, not too bad about $250 from the dealer for the control module and harness.



Here are the two wheels next to one another

[Igor_M5]

Awesome thread man, saved me from a headache selling a set of LCI paddles to the wrong market. There I thought... wtf is BMW charging $100 extra for the same exact part (F30 vs F10 paddles) lol

Not that this answers that question, but at least now I know the difference

[idog]

Originally Posted by Stück

I got my hands on a pair of F10 LCI paddles to meter out, the specs I found are as follows:


F10 LCI DOWN / - Paddle
Open/OFF 0LMΩ (infinitely open)
Closed/ON 1.691kΩ

F10 LCI UP / + Paddle
Open/OFF 5.361kΩ
Closed/ON 2.297kΩ



Now to go pickup 3 1206 package SMD resistors in the values needed and solder them onto my F30 paddles in the correct circuit configurations.

Hi,

I'm in the same boat here. Have F30 paddles which I want to use on an F10. You're talking about the 'correct configuration'. I have the SMD resistors here in the correct values, but can you tell me which resistors go where ? The F30 have 4 resistors in total while the F10 only has 3 in total. Also the pcb layout is a bit different. It would help enormously if you could share how you placed them on the board Hopefully you can help me out here ! Thanks !

I think it's like this :

[Stück]

I don't recall where I placed them, its been way too long, but I deduced correct placement by looking at the circuit and metering it out. I'd encourage you to do the same, or but the correct paddles if you can't.

[ey2001]

Very nice!!! Main reason I got the m sport package... love the steering wheel