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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum Help!
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      11-04-2020, 10:45 PM   #1
jyjimenez3
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Help!

My dad has a 2011 535i and it’s a lemon. An indie shop just did the valve cover gasket and we got it back and it stalled. The guy said a hose wasn’t on right. We took it home and all of a sudden there was a pop and the car stopped. Like would not go into gear. We looked under the hood and the charge pipe was off. Put it back on and went home. Drove it for a few and stalled again and the charge pipe was off. We are waiting for the replacement now. But i was running it today and it stalled twice for no apparent reason. When it first happened i got the injectors code, then i got the fuel pump codes. Now I’m getting like 20 weird ass codes. I think the charge pipe is unrelated to the stalling issue. Any idea on what to check first ? Also have the drive train issue. Oh and now it’s blowing white smoke from the exhaust too. Thanks!
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Last edited by jyjimenez3; 11-06-2020 at 02:54 PM..
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      11-04-2020, 11:35 PM   #2
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Not going to say I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if it were me, I'd pop the hood, remove the plastic engine cover, and check the complete engine harness in and around the valve cover.

I'd look at ALL brown heavy gauge wires and their grounding location ensure they are all attached and all tight (using a 10mm socket)...and then using a Digital Mutli-meter, I'd verify that the ground wires vs chassis ground read below 1 Ohm......

....but this is what I'd do...

Good luck.
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      11-05-2020, 12:11 AM   #3
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since you did not put it in garage and wait until you change part you may ruin other systems.... it may be all of above
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      11-05-2020, 02:52 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Bimmer View Post
Not going to say I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if it were me, I'd pop the hood, remove the plastic engine cover, and check the complete engine harness in and around the valve cover.

I'd look at ALL brown heavy gauge wires and their grounding location ensure they are all attached and all tight (using a 10mm socket)...and then using a Digital Mutli-meter, I'd verify that the ground wires vs chassis ground read below 1 Ohm......

....but this is what I'd do...

Good luck.
Thanks man. I have a multi-meter. Just have to figure out how to use it now. But why do you think it has to do with the wires?
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      11-05-2020, 02:55 AM   #5
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And the start up is no where near smooth. Rough idles.
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      11-05-2020, 02:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBHMM View Post
since you did not put it in garage and wait until you change part you may ruin other systems.... it may be all of above
It’s in the garage now and i was just letting it run to see what happens. I am worried about the white smoke but i don’t think the charge pipe issue is connected to the other issues.
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      11-05-2020, 01:04 PM   #7
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It would help us help you if you posted the codes with definitions
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      11-05-2020, 03:31 PM   #8
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How old is the gas, where is it purchased and what octane?
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      11-05-2020, 05:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
How old is the gas, where is it purchased and what octane?
He drives a lot so the gas is fairly new. I would hope 93. But i think he goes to a popi shop so I am curious on the quality of gas and maybe that could be causing the issues?
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      11-05-2020, 05:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
It would help us help you if you posted the codes with definitions
213604
D02d02
Do2d03
Do2do4
Do2do5
INFO 482627
1cffe9
Info67000a
Info100100
Info11a401 and 11b
C90c96

These were the codes i just got. When he first picked it up he had the injectors code and a few others. Also the check engine light is always on, which we are trying to fix because he needs it inspected. Hence why they did the valve cover to begin with.

Before all this he always had the codes 120308 and 108f01

Last edited by jyjimenez3; 11-05-2020 at 05:33 PM..
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      11-06-2020, 07:53 AM   #11
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I think you may have missed the part of with definitions. Or maybe a screen shot of ista or whatever diagnostic tool you used. Whose gonna sit here and look up each code? Just saying...:
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      11-06-2020, 11:56 AM   #12
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Welp that’s why i didn’t post the codes to begin with.
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      11-06-2020, 12:18 PM   #13
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Do you know how old the battery is? You can look on top of the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it's original to the car I'd start by replacing it. And it must be registered to the car after install.
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      11-06-2020, 12:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
Do you know how old the battery is? You can look on top of the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it's original to the car I'd start by replacing it. And it must be registered to the car after install.
We just changed the battery.
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      11-06-2020, 12:53 PM   #15
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That's all I'm seeing from those codes you listed. Is the battery correct spec. Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But say not serious. So when you clear them. Those are the ones that pop back up?
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      11-06-2020, 02:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
That's all I'm seeing from those codes you listed. Is the battery correct spec. Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But say not serious. So when you clear them. Those are the ones that pop back up?
Should be. Got it from auto zone and registered it with carly. Which is the battery codes? Because they seem to be new. These are not the usual codes we see and we replaced the battery like 6 months ago. Is it all four brakes? Because the only the back brake sensor is broken.
Ya i cleared them and ran it today and it came back up. But i didn’t drive it anywhere. I just turned on the car and they came back up. So maybe that’s why they haven’t gone away?
But i don’t think these codes would have anything to do with the stalling and the car like shakes on start up. Like a rough idle but the rpms DONT move.

Last edited by jyjimenez3; 11-06-2020 at 02:42 PM..
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      11-06-2020, 02:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck914 View Post
That's all I'm seeing from those codes you listed. Is the battery correct spec. Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But say not serious. So when you clear them. Those are the ones that pop back up?
So after rerunning it i got:
D02d02
Do2d03
Do2do4
Do2do5
INFO 482627
1cffe9
Info67000a
Info11a401 and 11b
C90c96

So i did not get the code:
213604
Info100100

But i got:
Info 002044
Info 002031
I posted them above.
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      11-06-2020, 04:04 PM   #18
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I had it running and gassed it it stalled out and like shuts off completely.
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      11-07-2020, 09:13 AM   #19
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Really u should post the code definitions so it makes it easier for us to help.

If it's a valve cover job. I would recheck all the vacuum tubes (boost solenoid for ex). All the grounds (as mentioned above). Connections such as o2 sensors (guess u can't mix it up?), maf, map(s).

You have no leak codes and white smoke now right? Does it idle smoothly (past open loop)?

Last edited by mashpotato; 11-07-2020 at 09:45 AM..
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      11-07-2020, 01:01 PM   #20
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The 213604 was the code I suspected of being the battery. But you say that's cleared now. You may have a short at the turbo. Bad turbo. Could be a number of things. Hard to say. Do you have access to ista? That would be your best bet to start.
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      11-07-2020, 02:06 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashpotato View Post
Really u should post the code definitions so it makes it easier for us to help.

If it's a valve cover job. I would recheck all the vacuum tubes (boost solenoid for ex). All the grounds (as mentioned above). Connections such as o2 sensors (guess u can't mix it up?), maf, map(s).

You have no leak codes and white smoke now right? Does it idle smoothly (past open loop)?
Before this we found out the boost solenoids have to be replaced so we are doing that now. We checked all connections and looks good.
I haven’t driven it though so not sure if that matters. But the codes don’t seem to be pointing to anything. Not crazy white smoke but it’s there. Idle is trash. It really fluctuates. You can feel the car shake but rpms don’t move. Then next time rpms are going up and down and that’s usually when it stalls.
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      11-07-2020, 06:06 PM   #22
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Could an air leak cause stalling ?
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