[khanmohammed]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

After searching for months I found a clean example of a 11 535xi! It seems like most owners after the warranty expires just let these thing go and they become POSs. I must have looked at 20+ cars up and down the Northeast. This repair shop that has been run by this same guy since the dawn of time was selling this car for local doctor. This shop owner was one of the nicest dudes I ever met and I wish I didn't live 1.5 hours away or I would start taking my cars to him.












98k Miles, clean title, no accident, new Michelin tires car. The PO did oil every 5k miles and the engine is spotless inside. Not bad for $9500! I am so excited to take delivery of the car later this week when my 21 year old brain can figure out the concept of a certified check. There are a few dings on the bumpers which I want to have resprayed. I am not sure if I will get the M sport ones or not. To me they are a bit too much for the elegance of the F10. I don't plan on tuning the car but instead retrofitting as much technology as humanly possible into it. I already have most of the NBT Evo bits from my E90s and I just bought a G30 touch screen last night. I also bought a 6WA cluster for $75 since this car is a 11/10 build date and it has the base cluster. Later this summer I want to retrofit, heated steering wheels, 4 zone climate, ACC, Kafas, ceramic controls, CA and a few more bits and bobs. I dropped $1300 on FCP last night and should have the car fully sorted in a week or two.

Stay tuned.

Jeez I'll pay you to find me a car haha

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by khanmohammed

Jeez I'll pay you to find me a car haha

I spent 5-6 months looking at cars before I bought my F10 and I took advantage of Covid. I think a comparable car now would be 12-13k. My one secret is being an informed buyer. I do very detailed used car inspections looking over every square inch of the car and knowing what it will take to get the car back up to spec.

That said I am probably over 16k into the car with the wheels, refurbishment and retrofits to the car.

[M_Bimmer]

I personally applaud Nickco43 who's $16K investment returned not only a clearly clean OEM modified one-of-a-king F10, but a year's worth of knowledge that cannot be purchased via a book or school, and will last his lifetime.

Keep going Nickco43!

[Nickco43]

My DXC ACC pump from Belarus is confirmed junk by the dealership. I have a new pump from a GT that may or may not work coming in early next week that I am going to try to DIY the install. I bought a case of brake fluid from the dealer and I just spent $150 on brake bleeding tools.

The last time I bled my own brakes it was a complete disaster. Hopefully it will go better this time around. Before all of this I need to drive three hours home without any ABS. I hope it does not rain.

[Nickco43]

Missing Accomplished!

ACC S+G is fully functional in my car!

I got the F01 pump installed in my car and after flashing the pump with F10 firmware it works!

If I didn't get the bad pump at first this would have been a lot cheaper. My DIY attempts for the bad pump cost $100 in brake fluid and the dealer charged $400 to give it a go.

Subtracting that I am in this retrofit for $515

F01 DXC ACC: $100
ACC ICM: $75
ACC Sensor: $250
Steering wheel controls: $70
Brake Fluid: $20

The motive brake bleeder tools are pretty bad. I got the ECS brand brake bleeder with a Bav Auto brake bleeder bottle that are much better than the motive stuff. All the motive bleeder did was leak everywhere, even with the metal cap. I also picked up the black Friday special $200 Milwaukee M12 tool bundle from Home Depot. The power ratchet made quick work of the pump swap.

Overall this retrofit costed double of what it should have and tool way too long. Sometimes thing do not do according to plan but that is life. I am so happy it is finally working after 4+ DXC pump swaps.

ACC worked well on the highway the short time I tested it out. When the car came to a full stop it resumed automatically without me doing anything. I am excided to test out the functionality more.

[Nickco43]

Today I retrofitted a power trunk lid to my F10.

I followed an older PDF of the retrofit which gave a list of part numbers required. Some of the information was wrong like it should have included bigger pins for the thicker gauge wire. Also the dudes car already had a button in the trunk and mine didn't.


Removing and installing the trunk shocks was straight forward. The trunk hinge actually has two point for the shocks to mount. One hook for the non powered shocks and another ball mount for the powered strut. I would recommend putting some lube on all of the ball joints.

I worked on the trunk lid part first. I broke every single one of the stupid Philips head screw plastic clips getting the liner off. I am going to eventually buy a whole new set of them. The tool kit is held on by two carpeted screws that I forgot to remove at first since I could not see them. With the liner off I mounted the trunk latch motor on the driver's side of the lid. The pulled cable and wiring to the trunk latch which went around the inside of the lid to the latch. The new latch itself has a larger connector that needs to be repined using the existing wiring. I also had to add a power wire to the fuse box and I should have ran a signal wire to the JBBF but I forgot. Everything still works without it and I have no idea what it does. I plan on running it when I do CA.






Since my car does not have a button from the factory I had to tap into the existing wiring harness and wire the button in myself. My car currently does not have CA so the lock button does not work. I cut out a hole in my factory trunk liner and it looks ok. If I find a cheap used trunk with the hole I will swap it out.

I had to create a small wiring harness to power the power trunk module. All it needed was two power wires, two ground and K-can. Ground was run to one of the three ground points back and power was run to the rear fuse box. BMW had all of the fuses already in the fuse box which was nice. For K can I taped the lines running right next to the trunk module.

Cars with automatic trunk lids have a brace next to the strut mount which I purchased but I forgot to buy the rivets to install them. Currently they are zip tied to provide at least some support but I will be installing them properly soon.

Once coded and calibrated everything works great! The only thing is that the motors especially on the driver's side seem a bit loud. Then again I got the pair for $80.

View post on imgur.com

[My_BMWe90]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Missing Accomplished!

ACC S+G is fully functional in my car!

I got the F01 pump installed in my car and after flashing the pump with F10 firmware it works!

If I didn't get the bad pump at first this would have been a lot cheaper. My DIY attempts for the bad pump cost $100 in brake fluid and the dealer charged $400 to give it a go.

Subtracting that I am in this retrofit for $515

F01 DXC ACC: $100
ACC ICM: $75
ACC Sensor: $250
Steering wheel controls: $70
Brake Fluid: $20

The motive brake bleeder tools are pretty bad. I got the ECS brand brake bleeder with a Bav Auto brake bleeder bottle that are much better than the motive stuff. All the motive bleeder did was leak everywhere, even with the metal cap. I also picked up the black Friday special $200 Milwaukee M12 tool bundle from Home Depot. The power ratchet made quick work of the pump swap.

Overall this retrofit costed double of what it should have and tool way too long. Sometimes thing do not do according to plan but that is life. I am so happy it is finally working after 4+ DXC pump swaps.

ACC worked well on the highway the short time I tested it out. When the car came to a full stop it resumed automatically without me doing anything. I am excided to test out the functionality more.

Great job!

How were you able to get it programmed and installed? Did you use any guides to help with install?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by My_BMWe90

Great job!

How were you able to get it programmed and installed? Did you use any guides to help with install?

I mostly figured it out on my own. Since I got a ACC sensor from another F10 I didn't need to aim it at all.

[My_BMWe90]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

I mostly figured it out on my own. Since I got a ACC sensor from another F10 I didn't need to aim it at all.

Nice! So I assume you didn't need to get it programmed by the dealer, correct?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by My_BMWe90

Nice! So I assume you didn't need to get it programmed by the dealer, correct?

I did all of the programing myself with e-sys.

[My_BMWe90]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

I did all of the programing myself with e-sys.

Nice!

[Nickco43]

Today I got a new toy! I bought a Yanhua ACDP key programing tool to program a display key to my car and to replace my current CAS with a CA cas. I don't have any keys yet but I changed the vin and mileage on the donor cas and success!

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Today I got a new toy! I bought a Yanhua ACDP key programing tool to program a display key to my car and to replace my current CAS with a CA cas. I don't have any keys yet but I changed the vin and mileage on the donor cas and success!

What does the Canadian CAS offer in comparison to the US one?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Unspec

What does the Canadian CAS offer in comparison to the US one?

CA Stands for Comfort Access. The original owner of the car was on crack and didn't order comfort access from the factory.

I cloned my original CAS to a used CAS that supports Comfort Access and then flashed it with E-Sys. My original key still works which is cool. I ordered a used key that will unlock and code in so I will finally have a spare key and I also ordered the latest version of the aftermarket display key because it was only $130.

Some dude on the M5 section is doing a group buy for a more expensive version of the display key that does not even work in the US since we do not have 2G cell support. It's going to be fun to see how that ends up.

[M_Bimmer]

Did you get the Yanhua ACDP-BMW CAS3/3+, CAS4/4+, FEM or BDC?

I want to add a BMW Display Key for the F10 and thought you needed the FEM/BDC unit, so looking for the right unit.

Thanks!

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Did you get the Yanhua ACDP-BMW CAS3/3+, CAS4/4+, FEM or BDC?

I want to add a BMW Display Key for the F10 and thought you needed the FEM/BDC unit, so looking for the right unit.

Thanks!

The base tool was $180 and then I bought the CAS module for 250ish and the key unlocker module for $50. I had the BMW Multi tool and the Xhorse BMW tool in the past and this tool is really good. For $500 I was expecting it to be absolute trash like the CGDI but it cloned my cas without any issues.

Both display keys are aftermarket made to work with F series cars. I think I could get a OEM display key to start and unlock the car but not sync with it.

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

...... I think I could get a OEM display key to start and unlock the car but not sync with it.

Curious about this comment. Is it because the unlock/lock goes through the CAS, and the Sync does not, or you have different rationale?

Without changing the F series CAS to a G series version, the Display Key would be very limited with the native F10 CAS module on what it could display/control. I'd assume that the F10 CAS would be limited to only static information (key reader data), and not support dynamic data found in the G series version, such as battery voltage, window up/down status, remote start, remote a/c state control, etc....

I may be OK with just unlock/lock doors/trunk.....but then there is still the whole keeping it charged thing in the car (can be charged via a wall transformer and cable - not sure of the F10's USB power support) since the F10 doesn't have an inductive charger....(although that may not be hard to retrofit either given my X5///M has one for a cellphone)

Maybe you could start a separate thread on this topic....

Thanks!

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Curious about this comment. Is it because the unlock/lock goes through the CAS, and the Sync does not, or you have different rationale?

Without changing the F series CAS to a G series version, the Display Key would be very limited with the native F10 CAS module on what it could display/control. I'd assume that the F10 CAS would be limited to only static information (key reader data), and not support dynamic data found in the G series version, such as battery voltage, window up/down status, remote start, remote a/c state control, etc....

I may be OK with just unlock/lock doors/trunk.....but then there is still the whole keeping it charged thing in the car (can be charged via a wall transformer and cable - not sure of the F10's USB power support) since the F10 doesn't have an inductive charger....(although that may not be hard to retrofit either given my X5///M has one for a cellphone)

Maybe you could start a separate thread on this topic....

Thanks!

I got an OEM display key for $70 on eBay. Worse case I will use the OEM display key housing on the aftermarket display key. I don't have high hopes for getting it working but you never know unless you try.

[ezaircon4jc]

OEM display key...

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

OEM display key...

Thats the first generation aftermarket one. Those are the ones the guy on the M5 post is pushing to everyone.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc

OEM display key...

That's an aftermarket one. I believe Keis ran into issues with it and they never ended up selling them.

[Nickco43]

Today I fitted an LCI ICM module with support for Eco Pro, FCW via the ACC sensor and it is apart of my end goal to delete the NBT emulator for a more factory install.

What a pain in the ass install. I had to take apart my factory ICM and mount the new ICM to the mounting plate. I used the pig tail that came with the ICM to make a little pnp harness so I didn't have to hack up my factory harness. During the install I realized how much BMW hates me since in their infinite wisdom they removed the active steering functionality of the ICM so I now need to retrofit an active steering module. I bought one on eBay for $25 but I am torn if I should install the module in the center console where all of the wiring is or if I should install it in the factory location in the trunk.

I took the car for a quick test drive and I really like the dialed down throttle response for casual driving. I am excided to try the FCW tomorrow when there are more cars on the road.