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01-07-2015, 12:55 PM | #1 |
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N55/Performance Mods
FYI I am a noob at everything when it comes to the modding realm, please forgive my lack of knowledge.
Hi! I finally bought my own F10 and was wondering what mods to put on it performancewise, I looked at basic performance chips & turbos and superchargers but they just dont add enough power for it to be fast enough for me, Ive searched around and I know that certain mods when combined will make quite a powerful vehicle, My question is what mods are the best for making it fast?
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Father: 93' M3 / 03' M5 / 11' 535xi Me: 11' 535xi / |
01-07-2015, 01:02 PM | #2 |
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If you were that interested in speed, you should have bought a 550 or an M5.
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01-07-2015, 09:20 PM | #3 |
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01-07-2015, 11:10 PM | #4 |
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agreed. I can get in plenty of trouble w my N55. Yes N63 is faster but the N55 is no slouch.
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01-08-2015, 12:29 AM | #5 |
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You may want to look into this and talk to the vendor's reps or local partners:
http://burgertuning.com/N55_Jb_BMW_P...nce_Tuner.html http://burgertuning.com/N55_JB4_F_ch...BMW_tuner.html Besides the engine tune you can also consider upgrading intake, downpipes, exhaust, and then have some suspension upgrades (sport springs, brakes etc.) and wheels. |
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01-08-2015, 01:23 AM | #6 |
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So far I have
With just the mods I have, I'm able to keep up with almost anything on the road. I don't race from stoplight to stoplight, as I'm more concerned with tire shine slinging off onto my paint or gathering more brake dust than necessary, but for those times I need the extra power it is all there. My neighbor has a 550/6 which Im able to keep up with just fine but for all the $$ and effort it takes to approach or attain similar power figures to a 550, I could've easily have opted for one or waited a while longer to get an M5. If you want enough power keep the 535 stock as it does its job pretty well. If you want noticeable gains in power look into the mods I listed above. Trust me, you won't regret it! If you want an overkill so to speak and you had the means/resources, look into catless downpipes and BMS tunes for the 550. The power figures are simply magnificent. And if you want the ultimate power.. well....you know what to get
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01-08-2015, 02:34 PM | #7 | |
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Family BMW History -> Grandfather: 35' 303 Saloon / 37' 328 Roadster / 48' 327 coupe' / 54' 502 Saloon
Father: 93' M3 / 03' M5 / 11' 535xi Me: 11' 535xi / |
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01-08-2015, 05:12 PM | #8 | |
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01-08-2015, 07:48 PM | #9 | |
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Your car must haul with all those mods. I'm real close to getting a 2013 Msport 535, will definitely be installing a JB4. I have one in my 2008 535, it runs great. |
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01-08-2015, 09:08 PM | #10 | |
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01-09-2015, 12:56 AM | #11 | |
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01-09-2015, 02:11 AM | #12 |
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550ix Steinbauer street race and drag videos
This is about N63 but I just want to share it as a proof of concept. I wish everybody who is talking his achievements on street or track would provide as clear confirmation as one of my friend does.
The guy has 550ix with Steinbauer box (by dealer) and sport downpipes, lowered on Eibach. All the rest is stock. There is his amazing collection of 70+ racing videos honestly with both wins and losses http://www.youtube.com/user/naiishiko/videos. |
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01-09-2015, 12:07 PM | #13 | ||
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Definitely go for the Jb4. The biggest difference you will feel is with greater torque . Quote:
No not yet. I plan on dyno-ing when the weather warms back up. I hardly drive the car during winter/snowy weather. When I do get the info i'll upload it to my build thread. To OP: One thing I wanted to add is that the mods and power are reliable. The JB4 can be removed in about 15 minutes without disconnecting the battery (which isn't recommended). To disconnect the battery two plastic/composite bolts that hold down the top portion of the trunk must be removed as well as a couple tabs that will loosen up the storage cubby underneath the trunk's cover. Just disconnect the negative battery cable and tuck it away neatly. I always wrap my cable in a clean lint free cloth to prevent contact with other metal parts of the car. To install the JB4 stage 2 you will need to do a couple things. The first is to disconnect a series of sensors/plugs from their original location and plug them into the JB4's harness. After plugging them into the jb4s harness you will plug the jb4's harness plugs (which are similar to the OEM plugs) back into the OEM locations. The next is to attach the power and ground wires to locations specified in the BMS install guide. Last is to tap the JB4's CAN wires into the car's CAN wires. Remember a couple things: +The JB4 harness and its plugs share a progressive design or in laymen's terms the harness' sensors/plugs are located at intervals where the they should be plugged in making it hard to confuse the Map Sensor and TMAP sensors for example. +If you find that the Jb4's fittings are not snapping into place exactly as the OEM then you need to consider two things; either you have the wrong harness altogether or you have the harness aligned the wrong way. +Attach the ground wire to the headlight's ground +Carefully identify and postitap the CAN wires as its easy to mix them up. The BMS guide doesn't show this explicitly as they used pictures from an f30. (This might change if they update the guide but when I installed mine there wasn't an f10 pictured). +Tuck the JB4 away really good so it wont slide to the corner of the hood risking damage when the hood is shut. Its important to note that you may or may not receive error codes after the install. If thats the case, read the DME codes via JB4 interface and reset them. Immediately after, read the codes again and if the same codes show up again, either something has not been plugged in/attached correctly or something has been left plugged out. You may experience this with FF wires install and DP install as well. For the FF wire install remember to set the open fuel loop to 50 or you will get the drivetrain malfunction light which wont reset. As for the DP (downpipes) make sure the O2 sensors aren't installed in the wrong order and that there are no leaks at the turbo housing and exhaust locations.
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Last edited by Mr Clean; 01-09-2015 at 12:14 PM.. |
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01-09-2015, 12:38 PM | #14 | |
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01-09-2015, 12:52 PM | #15 | |
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Family BMW History -> Grandfather: 35' 303 Saloon / 37' 328 Roadster / 48' 327 coupe' / 54' 502 Saloon
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01-09-2015, 05:22 PM | #16 |
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Do your research first. The last JB4 stage two before/after dynos on an otherwise stock N55 I saw yielded a whopping 11 horsepower. Beware of any unsubstantiated claims or anecdotal stories not backed up by hard numbers. You have no idea what the circumstances are. btw, I beat a Bugatti Veyron two weeks ago driving home on PCH. Of course the guy was on his cell phone and flirting with his hot girlfriend while driving slowly and paying no attention whatsover to me.
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Last edited by SonicEndeavor; 01-09-2015 at 05:30 PM.. |
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01-09-2015, 07:09 PM | #17 | |
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In closing, its always best to take advice from someone who has "lived it" before you so to speak. I have acquired a total of 2,000 miles since installing all mods except the flex fuel wires and an additional 8,000 miles on a fully stock car before that .After every mod (which I chose to install individually) I was careful to gauge any changes in driving characteristics/dynamics. Add to this the fact that I installed all the forementioned mods myself and any issues/concerns I encountered was resolved "in-house" showing the extent to which I know my car and have a strong grasp on what Im doing. Im not speaking on the basis from what I've heard or what I think, but from first hand experience installing and benefiting from these mods. I've found that some are so consumed with numbers, hp figures and dynos that they fail to see the greater picture. The reason most people get cars like ours is to benefit from the space, refined luxury, best in class sportiness and the practicality of having a sedan for family purposes which still provides the driver with the "ultimate driving pleasure". There are times when some, such as myself, feel the need to enhance the performance a bit and do so by installing mods.Chances are these mods won't turn our cars into complete monsters or help us to achieve significantly better 0-60 times or show enormous gains on the dyno, but will accomplish their goal of giving us what we so desired in the first place; an augmentation of the sporty feel without compromising the essence of the car. To be honest I bought the F10 purely because of aesthetic beauty and the fact that I had the ability to make a purchase based on such. I almost always drive alone, I have no wife or kids (maybe a slightly annoying girlfriend ) and I don't need to drive to work in my car. Those who know me can verify this and attest to the fact that I'm probably one of the younger members on this board. It goes without saying that there are much faster cars for the money Ive spent on my F10 but I could care less. Anyways, Im digressing. Install the mods first and drive your car for a bit and if you feel you need more power, the opportunity is always open to advance to a 550 or m5. Good luck.
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01-10-2015, 12:39 PM | #18 |
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Das Johnson ,
You can always go with BMS Stage 1 or BMS JB4 Stage 2 with Catless downpipe. Not sure if you can keep up with 300 SRT though. But for sure it will give you plenty of power to have fun with the car. Installation wise, I can guide you over the phone whether you buy it from me or not. It is very easy on the Stage 1, a little hard on the JB4 Stage 2, but it is something that you only need to use 10mm socket and some screw driver. hp jnkey , 2013 M Sport 535 most likely will be using Harness B. Mr Clean , You almost got it right, the split year between Harness A and Harness B is MY2012.
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01-10-2015, 01:19 PM | #19 |
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