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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Won't go into sport/sport+/comfort mode |
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05-28-2016, 03:29 PM | #1 |
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Won't go into sport/sport+/comfort mode
Hey everyone,
So I went on vacation for 2 weeks and when I came back, my TPMS was indicating low tire pressure at all 4. I kinda sat on putting air in the tire for a couple days, then a Stability Control Malfunction message came up. I went ahead and put air in the tires and reset the TPMS. No more low tire pressure messages, but the stability malfunction message is staying on. It's been about a week now. It comes on every time I start my car. I also notice that my turn signals are not automatically turning off once I make the turn. I've read that sometimes low tire pressure will kick in the stability control malfunction issue, but once corrected, I thought it would clear that message. Am I supposed to some how reset the stability control sensors? Also, due to the blinker issue, I'm thinking that it could also be a malfunctioning Steering Angle Sensor. But I just think that would've been too much of a coincidence when I had low tire pressure. Anyone with experience on this issue? Thanks, Anthony |
05-28-2016, 04:23 PM | #2 |
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samething happened to Teddy
http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258030
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05-28-2016, 04:53 PM | #3 |
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Decided to purchase the carly app as I already have an OBDII module.
Spit out these codes: 480113 480114 480121 48261C D02D06 D014DC Anyone know their interpretation? |
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05-29-2016, 04:26 PM | #4 |
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This might sound unrelated, but try charging your battery and see if the codes go away. when my car sits for a week without driving I get dumb faults that go away after I charge the batteries. Yes, I have 2 batteries.
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05-29-2016, 06:01 PM | #6 |
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05-29-2016, 07:46 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
480113: "DTC Button, Continuous Activation" 480114: "Driving experience switch temporarily deactivated" 480121: "ICM: internal yaw-rate signal implausible" Caused by: - under voltage, towing vehicle, driving through pothole, control unit not secured, control unit not handled properly in workshop 48261C: Invalid code (not sure why) D02D06: SZL interface (actual steering angle): Signal invalid D014DC: SZL interface (actual steering angle): invalid, transmitter SZL/ICM So it looks like your ICM module is having some issues. It is detecting you are pressing the DTC button constantly, having issues with the yaw reading, and having communication issues with other modules.
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05-29-2016, 09:08 PM | #8 |
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I think its a battery issue too. There is a way to check the voltage in the secret menu. The way to get into the menu is to hold down the trip reset button for like 8-10 seconds. You have to add up the last 5 of your vin which will be your password. If your below 12v volts with the car on / engine off, that's a good indicator that your battery is on the way out.
A dying battery will cause all kinds of operation issues.
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05-29-2016, 11:29 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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05-30-2016, 03:04 AM | #10 |
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The same problem, when i puncture a tire. The solution until I changed it, disable by coding the RDC.
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05-30-2016, 09:33 AM | #11 |
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Not saying it is not the battery, but if the battery was causing low voltage problems you would expect to see a lot of indication. Control center messages, other codes, other issues, etc. So don't just throw money at the battery without testing it first.
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05-30-2016, 07:47 PM | #12 |
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Ok. I'll purchase a battery charger/tester and go from there.
Stupid question...do I have to remove the battery completely from the car to charge ? |
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05-31-2016, 04:00 PM | #14 |
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ok. As I wait for my charger to be delivered, I ran diagnostics again using the Carly app. If it turns out that a fully charged battery doesn't work to clear the codes, I suspect a malfunctioning Steering Angle Sensor (SZL) is causing the problem. If I were to purchase a new or used SZL, will I be able to code it to my F10 using the Carly app?
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06-16-2016, 08:42 PM | #15 |
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So it seems that the battery was drained down to 20%. I recharged it with my new "smart" charger to 100%, but the error message didn't go away. One week later, battery is again drained to 20%. Mind you, my car is driven less than 10 miles/day. I'm obviously suspecting a bad battery issue, but how to I make certain the battery is bad?
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06-16-2016, 08:45 PM | #16 | |
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10-26-2017, 11:29 PM | #17 |
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Sorry to revive an old thread but I’m having the same problems. Was a solution ever found here? Would really appreciate some input. Thanks!
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10-28-2017, 11:38 AM | #18 |
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Your battery is beginning to go bad. Mine lasted a little more that year before it went completely out. These cars use a lot of power and when your battery is low accessories like the blower for air conditioning and heat won't work. The defrost will still blow fully because it's a safety issue. When this first starts, the battery will still have enough power to easily crank you car but the sensors for the battery and charging system are set for battery higher levels so they will show the battery is low. The low battery issue occurs a lot more when it's cold. I just didn't replace my battery until I was stranded and I had to. I ready should have replaced it sooner so I could use my heat. The batteries are 95 amps but I believe that BMW now uses a 105 amp battery. Replacing the battery is the only fix I have found. I was lucky my battery lasted as long as it did but sometimes I don't get drive my 550i often.
Hope this helps, Eric |
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10-28-2017, 02:01 PM | #19 |
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For the record, things like "the blower not working" is the IBS system in the car limiting high electrical consumers because it knows the battery is not in a great state of charge. This is not the battery "unable to power" these devices.
This can happen with a brand new battery if it is not kept charged. I've been saying these things in a number of threads on a number of forums: 1/ keep your batteries charged. Use a plug in charger if you're any kind of a "short tripper". Even if you're not, plug it in every two weeks or so 2/ Charge your battery with the battery installed in the car and USING THE UNDER HOOD TERMINALS. The energy from your charger should go through the power/battery monitoring systems in the car in order to be properly accounted for in the calculations of battery condition, expected life and state of charge. Don't charge by clipping onto the battery terminals or removing the battery from the car. 3/ When you replace your battery, register it. It's not a conspiracy by BMW. 4/ If your car says "Charge battery" - do so. If your car says "Replace battery", it's probably right. If your car says "excessive battery drain while off" go get your codes read and have your car fixed. Something isn't shutting down properly when your car is parked and it's running down the battery. 5/ You don't need a battery from BMW. Get a proper group# AGM battery (I like East Penn/Deka personally), swap it out and get it registered if you can't DIY. Anyone who can code can most likely register a battery. Apps like Carly can too. |
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