[fung0001]

THANK YOU

[fung0001]

This seems good http://ultimateaudioinstall.wordpress.com/tag/hertz/


Improve the Sound Quality in your BMW

BMW’s are great cars yet they let themselves down with very poor OEM audio systems, They just sound Rubbish!

The new BMW 5 series F10 factory audio system sucks, it has small mid range doors speakers and small mid bass speakers under the front seats. All driven full range, not even a crossover in sight, just poor quality audio.

Well what can you do? At Ultimate Audio in Bromsgrove we have put together an extensive range of BMW audio upgrade options to suit all requirements. Whether you have a budget to stick to or you want the best sound quality possible, at Ultimate Audio we can guarantee you complete satisfaction.

Affordable audio upgrades available for 1, 3 and 5 series BMW’s

with the choices below you can go for the full upgrade or if your to a budget you can do it in stages. Stage 1 is one of the most important thing you can do to improve on the poor BMW audio system, and will enhance the whole front sound stage.

These are our budget options please check back soon for our High Quality Upgrades!

STAGE 1 : Adding Tweeters to your BMW

This will give you more high-end and will also improve the sound staging

Hertz ET 20 Tweeter set

(Approximate cost including professional installation) £130

If your BMW does not have any tweeter grilles then we can either surface mount the tweeter on the OEM mirror triangle. Or you can purchase the tweeter housing from BMW (approx £20 for the pair) and we can install them in the factory location behind the grille.

Stage 2 : BMW door speaker & Tweeter upgrade

This will give you more high-end and better mid range

Rainbow DL C4 component speaker set complete with crossover

(Approximate cost including professional installation) £260

Same applies to the tweeter as in Stage 1. The Rainbow 4″ mid range speaker and crossover will be installed behind the factory speaker grilles.

Stage 3 : BMW 3-way speaker upgrade

This will give you better high-end, mid-range and more bass.

Hertz ESK 163L 3-way component system

(Approximate cost including professional installation) £550

Complete improvement on all front speakers, Replace with a Hertz underseat mid-bass speaker, Hertz mid-range speaker behind the factory door grilles and Hertz Tweeter installed in OEM location either behind the tweeter grille or surface mounted.

Stage 4 : BMW 3-way speaker upgrade with additional amplifier

This will give you more volume and less distortion at higher volumes

Hertz ESK 163L 3-way component system and Audison SR2 Amplifier

(Approximate cost including professional installation) £950

As with Stage 3 with the addition of a 2 channel Audison amplifier (Audison SR2), this will give you more volume as well as less speaker distortion at higher volumes.

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These 4 stages of BMW Audio upgrades will make a vast improvement on the factory BMW audio system, however they do not address the quality of sound signal coming from the factory head unit, and In most cases it cannot be removed or replaced easily. There is an alternative solution using the Audison Bit signal processors but we will update you shortly with another post about that.

All the Quoted prices above include a professional installation by Ultimate Audio none of which will void your manufactures warranty, it also include all materials such as Cables, Cable Connectors, Sound Deadening and Fabrication materials, along with a Lifetime installation warranty.

Dont worry if you don’t have a BMW and would like to upgrade the Sound quality in your vehicle please contact us.

www.UltimateAudio.co.uk

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Posted in BMW

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Tags: 1 series, 3 series, 5 series, affordable audio upgrades, audio, Audison, audison amplifier, Audison Bit, Bit, BMW, bmw 3-way speaker upgrade, BMW audio upgrade, BMW poor sound, Bromsgrove, cable connectors, car audio, DL C4, ESK 163L, ET20, Hertz, improve bmw sound quality, professional installation, Rainbow, signal processor, Sound Deadening, Sound Quality, sound upgrade, sr2, tweeter grilles, ultimate, Ultimate Audio

[vince59]

As said I have an f25 with the stereo/hifi (609) that seems to be the basic one in european models. It has 4 speakers mid on the doors adn two woofers under the seats.
I got top hifi tweeters and I was concerned about connecting them in parallel with the mid, but I realized that they are filtered with capacitors therefore when I connect them to the mid there is no effect on the overall resistance.
I believe it is a safe connection with no effect on the idrive internal amp.
Am I correct?

[vince59]

Originally Posted by Technic

Micah... this is the Stereo system, not the HiFi. The 6.5" woofers are connected in parallel to that single mid. Adding a tweeter to the mid will make 3 speakers connected in parallel, thus increasing the load/decreasing the impedance unless something is done with the woofer.

The iDrive unit can handle 2ohms according to BMW. Less than that and the unit will overheat.

This has to be done the right way.

I beg pardon for double reply.

In theory I agree with you but when the tweeter is filtered (series connection) with a capacitor it does not affect the resistance so there should be no problem and no lowering of the load...am I right?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by vince59

I beg pardon for double reply.

In theory I agree with you but when the tweeter is filtered (series connection) with a capacitor it does not affect the resistance so there should be no problem and no lowering of the load...am I right?

I would assume that your F25 does not have iDrive, correct?

There is no capacitor at the front mids with the iDrive -according to BMW. The iDrive is standard in the F10.

Tweeters with filtering cap connected in parallel with the mid (as in HiFi and Top HiFi systems) are 2 ohms. I measured them.

The iDrive unit seems to me much more tolerant to low impedance/high load in real-life use than the "old" Professional Radio. The Professional Radio will start cutting its output off at high volumes even with the woofer and mid in parallel straight out of factory.

However, what I am saying is that total impedance must be taken into consideration with OEM systems in which the HU power directly the speakers or long term damage most probably occur.

BMW did, so you should do as well.

[vince59]

Originally Posted by Technic

I would assume that your F25 does not have iDrive, correct?

There is no capacitor at the front mids with the iDrive -according to BMW. The iDrive is standard in the F10.

Tweeters with filtering cap connected in parallel with the mid (as in HiFi and Top HiFi systems) are 2 ohms. I measured them.

The iDrive unit seems to me much more tolerant to low impedance/high load in real-life use than the "old" Professional Radio. The Professional Radio will start cutting its output off at high volumes even with the woofer and mid in parallel straight out of factory.

However, what I am saying is that total impedance must be taken into consideration with OEM systems in which the HU power directly the speakers or long term damage most probably occur.

BMW did, so you should do as well.

I do not know there something that doese not match between what I am saying and what are you saying.

I had two tweeters bmw top hifi with 4,7 microF connected and no resistance reading with tester; I mean NO READING at all. This means no effect to load. I tried with all tweeters. Audi and BMW, I have been searching and debating in other forums and they told that the capacitor act as a crossover so no resistance value is affecting the load
same with blaupunkt tweeters for audi.

I have idrive on my f25.

When I fader the audio system to the rear I am still able to ear the woofers working.

I added the four tweeters

[Technic]

If it works for you then that's ok... I stand on what I am saying, that's all.

Originally Posted by vince59

I do not know there something that doese not match between what I am saying and what are you saying.

I had two tweeters bmw top hifi with 4,7 microF connected and no resistance reading with tester; I mean NO READING at all. This means no effect to load. I tried with all tweeters. Audi and BMW, I have been searching and debating in other forums and they told that the capacitor act as a crossover so no resistance value is affecting the load
same with blaupunkt tweeters for audi.

I have idrive on my f25.

When I fader the audio system to the rear I am still able to ear the woofers working.

I added the four tweeters

[vince59]

I am only trying to understand why we have differencies.
I can only think that as a capacitor is connected in series with the tweeter coil the whole tweeter and capacitor have no effect on the total impedance.
As a matter of fact I have no reading at all when reading the tweeter/capacitor assembly.
Strange that you have reading.

The overall effect is definitely better with just more clear and present high frequencies

[fung0001]

I think its ok because one seldomly exceeds half of the volume & the channel concerned does not reach its max loading, i.e. 25 watt

[vince59]

Originally Posted by fung0001

I think its ok because one seldomly exceeds half of the volume & the channel concerned does not reach its max loading, i.e. 25 watt

No honestly I think it is definitely ok, because there is difference if you make a parallel connection with two loudpseakers and no capacitors and two loudspeaker one being a tweeter with capacitor.

In the first case (two loudsp in parallel) it works according ohm law and the total impedance changes;

In the second case one loudsp (midrange/full) connected to a tweeter with capacitor in series DOES not affect at all the impedance or resistance value. NO EFFECT AT ALL. I made actual measurement and the total resistance was exactly the same with or without tweeter.

I also have doubt about woofer being in parallel with front speakers because in this case when you fader to rear no sound would come from woofer.
I tested my car and sound is always coming from woofer. The fader has only effect on speakers located on the door. And this makess sense to me. You don't want to lose woofer sound when you fader.

I hope I made myself clear

[Technic]

Originally Posted by vince59

I also have doubt about woofer being in parallel with front speakers because in this case when you fader to rear no sound would come from woofer.

The iDrive outputs 4 channels and there are 6 speakers in the Stereo system. At least 2 speakers must be connected in parallel - or so BMW and the 4-wires at the woofer connector say.

The woofer low pass effect -regardless of Fader- is done at the iDrive outputs. In other words, what you are fading is the high pass.

[vince59]

Originally Posted by Technic

The iDrive outputs 4 channels and there are 6 speakers in the Stereo system. At least 2 speakers must be connected in parallel - or so BMW and the 4-wires at the woofer connector say.

The woofer low pass effect -regardless of Fader- is done at the iDrive outputs. In other words, what you are fading is the high pass.

Agree. I still have to check wiring to loudspeakers.

Here are my reading test..I did it with digital and analogic instrument.
Tweeter only and tweeter coupled in parallel to loudsp 4 and 8 ohm. R value stay exactly the same.

Following are reading at loudspeaker connection and at cable terminals (capacitor 4,7 mF in series)

[vince59]

Originally Posted by Technic

Tweeters with filtering cap connected in parallel with the mid (as in HiFi and Top HiFi systems) are 2 ohms. I measured them.

The iDrive unit seems to me much more tolerant to low impedance/high load in real-life use than the "old" Professional Radio.

However, what I am saying is that total impedance must be taken into consideration with OEM systems in which the HU power directly the speakers or long term damage most probably occur.

BMW did, so you should do as well.

Hi Techinc, fist of all let me thank you for your helpunf hints.
I studied a little bit more as being not a tech I was doing a mistake.
I was confusing pure resistance value with impedance value.
My daughter boyfriend, an elctronich engineer gave me clear explanation.
Impedance is something different from pure resistance value of the loudspeaker.
I do not have an instrument to measure the impedance and I was simply reading the resistance value.
I must check the impedance and eventually take a corrective action.

[fung0001]

Reply quoted from a Manufacturer: Regarding overloading the amplifier in standard stero sys, it's not a concern. Speaker impedance is a dynamic property of a speaker -- it changes with the frequency that a speaker is playing. Because our tweeters are designed with an in-line capacitor, and because the impedance of the midrange is so high during high frequency playback, the additional load on the amplifier is insignificant

[vince59]

Originally Posted by fung0001

Reply quoted from a Manufacturer: Regarding overloading the amplifier in standard stero sys, it's not a concern. Speaker impedance is a dynamic property of a speaker -- it changes with the frequency that a speaker is playing. Because our tweeters are designed with an in-line capacitor, and because the impedance of the midrange is so high during high frequency playback, the additional load on the amplifier is insignificant

Thank you very much. I believe this makes definitely clear the situation and now I know the difference between resitance value of the speakers and impedance of the whole system

I was already going to install a simple crossover to saty on the safe side, but I feel confident with this explanation.

[rjn21]

I have F10 with 688 - I think that's the "top hifi" now badged for this year as Harman Kardon. It's ok. Not amazing but adequate.

Thinking of upgrade routes, I would prefer to keep OEM as possible (ie no complete rewiring and no insertion of additional amps post the HK amp (as an aside went that way for my DB9 and $8k later with Aston Martin Works it was "poor".....)).

So thinking of replacing the 4 door tweeters and mids, the 2 rear shelf tweeters and mids, the dashboard mid and tweet, and the 2 under seat subs with the B&O speakers (6F2) and its amplifier in the boot (I have all the required part no.s).

I am not bothered about the aluminium B&O covers or speaker illumination.

I am confident that I can code all necessary modules (inc the NBT) for B&O by adding it to the FA with e-sys and applying that to required modules.

I think the speakers will work fine, but not sure on the amp - the HK is MOST so I think it should swap for the B&O ok, but any thoughts? Price not a particular factor.

[vince59]

Originally Posted by rjn21

I am confident that I can code all necessary modules (inc the NBT) for B&O by adding it to the FA with e-sys and applying that to required modules.

Why is there the need to code?

[fung0001]

Originally Posted by rjn21

I have F10 with 688 - I think that's the "top hifi" now badged for this year as Harman Kardon. It's ok. Not amazing but adequate.

Thinking of upgrade routes, I would prefer to keep OEM as possible (ie no complete rewiring and no insertion of additional amps post the HK amp (as an aside went that way for my DB9 and $8k later with Aston Martin Works it was "poor".....)).

So thinking of replacing the 4 door tweeters and mids, the 2 rear shelf tweeters and mids, the dashboard mid and tweet, and the 2 under seat subs with the B&O speakers (6F2) and its amplifier in the boot (I have all the required part no.s).

I am not bothered about the aluminium B&O covers or speaker illumination.

I am confident that I can code all necessary modules (inc the NBT) for B&O by adding it to the FA with e-sys and applying that to required modules.

I think the speakers will work fine, but not sure on the amp - the HK is MOST so I think it should swap for the B&O ok, but any thoughts? Price not a particular factor.

Any 2nd hand hk speakers and amp for sale?

[rjn21]

Originally Posted by vince59

Why is there the need to code?

If you change to the HK amp or B&O you do need to code the CIC/NBT as its different menus for the sound. Possibly other modules as well but haven't looked.

Originally Posted by fung0001

Any 2nd hand hk speakers and amp for sale?

Could be! Watch this space!

[vince59]

Originally Posted by rjn21

If you change to the HK amp or B&O you do need to code the CIC/NBT as its different menus for the sound. Possibly other modules as well but haven't looked.


Could be! Watch this space!

Is it possible to upgrade from stereo/hifi system (amp inside CIC) with HK or any other having separated amp source?
Is there any thread?

[vince59]

question for Technic or for anybody that knows.

I have to midrange from top hifi system is there any substantial difference between stereo/hifi midrange?

Just looking the case they look pretty similar , but I can see a difference in the cone material and of course two connectors instead of one.

[neu2bmw2]

I have a 2014 X6 and totally agree with you about the speakers...and I was wondering if the process you displayed could be done on my 2014 and if the parts would be the same? Any advice you can give would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks