[Infamouscrew02]

Anyone have any experience with the Go Fast Bits diverter valve?

Looking for input on whether its a nice "mod" or not?

Could also be a preventive maintenance item as well with boost levels being pushed above stock.

https://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow...-abarth-by-gfb

Price is about $104 at current exchange rate plus whatever shipping costs.

[lsturbointeg]

Bmw doubles has it done on his car. hopefully he could chime in

[Infamouscrew02]

Well, i'm going to need Bmw doubles to chime in then.

[vivanapoli806]

Is it worth upgrading to this even with automatic? I did the tial bov on my e82 that was auto and liked it. I know usually bov are for the manual guys and to get that sound when shifting gears

[gclions]

I'm driving an N63, so unfortunately no DV+ for me. If they fit, I likely would have bought a pair of them.

That said, I just replaced my driver's side diverter valve because the housing cracked. My guess is prolonged elevated boost ended up breaking the thing. In my opinion though even the DV+ wouldn't have stopped that from happening. My plunger was still in perfect shape, so the bullet proof plunger they offer wouldn't have prevented my problems.

I run stage 2 aggressive daily, and drive the car hard every chance I get, and both plungers on my diverter valves are in perfect shape. For peace of mind, yeah I suppose it would be worth a shot, but don't expect to feel much on the butt dyno.

My two cents.

[Bmw doubles]

The stock DV can handle more boost than what's told. I was running 21psi and an additional 40whp at peak boost on my previous tune and was dumping boost mid rpm. I thought it was the DV leaking. Switched to DV+ and it did not solve my problem. The stock DV once removed was in immaculate condition. The plunger showed no tears. We put in the DV+ and the problem was still there. This was due to a bad tune, but I digress.

GFB warns that is you use their spring it could throw a code. I went for it and viola no codes or so I thought. On to a better tune and boost still not holding like I was hoping. This time the boost not holding was due to 1 of hundreds of parameters that BMW uses to reduce power if it thinks the engine is going out of it factory safe limits. A lot new discoveries have been made on the 5 series through my new tuner Alex @MissionPerformance. In the research he's made he has cleared up a lot of the restraints holding us back, but one of the more interesting ones has been with GFB DV. The error code that GFB speaks of is thrown and is not seen on your dash and what's worse it affects your power in ways that are stealthy. What I mean by stealthy is that it smoothly reduces power, it's not abrupt. Alex discovered this code reads out BOV malfunction. We don't have a BOV! This clearly is pointing to my GFB spring when holding more boost beyond factory settings. Here's the problem, when the ecu checks parameters to see if everything is running factory safe it uses the lowest common denominator and reduces power accordingly. If it's severe you'll go into limp mode. By having a BOV code thrown every time I go over factory targets that is always going to be my power limiting factor. The resolve for this we have decided is to delete the BOV cel permanently. It's either that or put the stock DV back in.

Does it hold boost better with the spring? Yes.

Once boost goes past factory over boost targets power is reduce and limited on a tune? Yes.

Can this be resolved and allow you to get the full performance from GFB? We believe yes.

Can you crank boost to your hearts content on any tune? Yes.

So here's my suggestion. If your going to push boost higher and want to use the DV+ then have the cel flashed out of your ecu. Currently Alex has made more power on less psi then any other option out there. Currently I'm running 17psi and an additional 50whp. He will reflash it when he returns from overseas and we'll delete the BOV cel and I let you know how that goes.

I still have high hopes that I'll be able to maximize my GFB with some of the corrections I just listed. I believe it would really shine on a stage 2 turbo and and tune allowing for an additional 100+hp.

[Infamouscrew02]

So would you say it's worth putting in for someone not doing high boost or custom tunes? I've got jb4, but that will most likely be the extent of my "tuning."

How loud or obnoxious is the pssshhh coming off throttle under boost with it?

[Bmw doubles]

Originally Posted by Infamouscrew02

So would you say it's worth putting in for someone not doing high boost or custom tunes? I've got jb4, but that will most likely be the extent of my "tuning."

How loud or obnoxious is the pssshhh coming off throttle under boost with it?

Short answer, no.

If you're using it for a JB4 tune it won't allow you take advantage of higher boost settings in map 6 because of the BOV cel. It does hold the boost a little better, but again only up to max factory values. Even if the jb4 auto clears the power will be inconsistent depending on when auto clear happens.

The blow off sound is stronger, but not by much. It is cooler sounding for sure, like having a BOV. It's a very fitting sound for the 5 series or can be described as a more mature sound. Unless you're going to delete the BOV cel it's not worth it IMO and everything else is stock.

[gclions]

Why would you not just remove the main spring? Then it would operate like the factory solenoid piston but, at least in GFB's opinion, it would be more durable than the factory unit. I think you would get rid of the code by doing so.

The car sees pressure, where it shouldn't, because the main spring shuts the plunger. The ECU thinks the solenoid/plunger is open, so pressure shouldn't be present. We're talking next to nothing, just enough for the spring to overcome, which I would wager is less than 2 psi. The TMAP sensor regardless of engine platform would still see that pressure, which would appear like a malfunction of the diverter.

Per GFB website:

"Additionally, in some cases this different operating method may be mis-interpreted by the ECU as a faulty diverter valve (it simply sees the diverter doing something different, it doesn’t know the diverter is actually attempting to improve throttle response), resulting in fault code P2261 being recorded. This does not indicate that the DV+ is faulty, nor does it cause any issues to the turbo or engine."

That is partially correct, but if the ECU cuts power because it can't rectify the difference, well then, that would negatively affect performance.

The alternative:

"If the fault code or different sound occurs and you want to prevent it, or you simply want a direct replacement for the factory diverter that is stronger, holds boost better, and lasts longer, you can choose to install the DV+ WITHOUT the main spring behind the piston. This configuration can be thought of as an improved “Standard” mode, which behaves just like the factory diverter, but with the added benefits of better boost-holding, strength, and reliability."

This seems like the answer. Good luck.

[Bmw doubles]

Originally Posted by gclions

Why would you not just remove the main spring? Then it would operate like the factory solenoid piston but, at least in GFB's opinion, it would be more durable than the factory unit. I think you would get rid of the code by doing so.

The car sees pressure, where it shouldn't, because the main spring shuts the plunger. The ECU thinks the solenoid/plunger is open, so pressure shouldn't be present. We're talking next to nothing, just enough for the spring to overcome, which I would wager is less than 2 psi. The TMAP sensor regardless of engine platform would still see that pressure, which would appear like a malfunction of the diverter.

Per GFB website:

"Additionally, in some cases this different operating method may be mis-interpreted by the ECU as a faulty diverter valve (it simply sees the diverter doing something different, it doesn’t know the diverter is actually attempting to improve throttle response), resulting in fault code P2261 being recorded. This does not indicate that the DV+ is faulty, nor does it cause any issues to the turbo or engine."

That is partially correct, but if the ECU cuts power because it can't rectify the difference, well then, that would negatively affect performance.

The alternative:

"If the fault code or different sound occurs and you want to prevent it, or you simply want a direct replacement for the factory diverter that is stronger, holds boost better, and lasts longer, you can choose to install the DV+ WITHOUT the main spring behind the piston. This configuration can be thought of as an improved “Standard” mode, which behaves just like the factory diverter, but with the added benefits of better boost-holding, strength, and reliability."

This seems like the answer. Good luck.

I did not know you could just remove the spring. If that's the case then it would be a 4+hour job, again for me to get back in there. I'll have to contemplate this a little more. Thanks for info.

[gclions]

Here's what I pulled from their website. The smaller spring (center) remains, it provides a little spring pressure to allow the piston (center) to operate. Basically, the solenoid withdraws the piston, which allows the plunger (brass fitting to the left) to position open with boost.

Below ECU controlled boost, the solenoid (right) positions the piston all the way against the plunger, keeping it shut and letting you build boost.

Once you exceed the threshold, the solenoid withdraws the piston and allows boost pressure to "blow" the plunger open, recycling boost inside the turbine housing.

Once pressure goes back down, the piston pushes the plunger shut.

It seems to me that your installer also installed the main spring, which is the larger spring to the left in the picture. The purpose of that spring is too force the plunger shut as soon as the spring can overcome the pressure. This leads to the condition you describe, and what I believe is causing you to throw the code and reduce power.

Good luck, it might be worth the effort and allow you to keep pushing power limits of the N55.

[Infamouscrew02]

So gclions your thought is if you install the part and leave the heavy plunger spring out, it would be a productive part?

[Infamouscrew02]

Originally Posted by Bmw doubles

I did not know you could just remove the spring. If that's the case then it would be a 4+hour job, again for me to get back in there. I'll have to contemplate this a little more. Thanks for info.

It took you 4hrs to install the gfb dv?

[gclions]

Tough for me to say. I like that it's a solid brass plunger, but my interest was largely when I expected my plungers or diaphragms would be cracked or torn. In hindsight, I'm not sure their product would have stopped my driver's side diverter from breaking.

My advice would be, if you ever get a failed diverter due to the plunger or diaphragm tearing, I would buy a new diverter to get a brand new solenoid and I would also buy a DV+ to upgrade the new one. If you spend the time shopping for both, you can likely get the pair cheaper than you could get just the stock diverter at a dealership parts counter.

[Infamouscrew02]

I've seen the db+ on Amazon for $135 with free prime shipping.

[Bmw doubles]

gclions on mine you have to drain the coolant and remove the steering rack.

[gclions]

I don't know if you saw my diverter valve replacement post, but yeah, BMW didn't make any of these very "replaceable" to say the least. I'm 95% sure I need to pull the passenger turbo to replace that side. Looking at pictures of the 535i engine compartment, can you reach it from the underneath side, say if it was on a lift?

[Infamouscrew02]

This post shows that the installer only loosened the electric power steering, sway bar, and the electric water pump and bracket. He didn't drain or fully remove any of those items.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ghlight=gfb+dv

[924845192@qq]

Originally Posted by gclions

I don't know if you saw my diverter valve replacement post, but yeah, BMW didn't make any of these very "replaceable" to say the least. I'm 95% sure I need to pull the passenger turbo to replace that side. Looking at pictures of the 535i engine compartment, can you reach it from the underneath side, say if it was on a lift?

If I don't use the main spring, is it better Pressurization（pressure） than the OEM?