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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMS Stage 1 Check Engine Light (n63) |
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10-05-2015, 11:18 PM | #1 |
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Installed the bms stage 1 last night. Easier than I thought. Started it up, no check engine light.. Drove it around, noticed the increase in power. Went home and parked it.
Next morning i take it for a drive, no check engine light park it back and go to work. Come home and swap cars and notice the check engine light. Also, when I get hard on the gas, the car feels like it chokes , so to speak. Running default settings, 93 octane . 2011 550i at 64 k miles and was planning on changing my spark plugs soon. Could the plugs be the reason for the check engine ? |
10-06-2015, 12:05 AM | #3 | |
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It's on the default settings so I'm actually not sure of it's even +3 . |
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10-06-2015, 12:36 AM | #4 |
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I would change plugs regardless, Manuel says change at 50k. Also get 1 or both of these.....
You can get the "MY OBD2" at amazon for like $16, but it only works with android with the TORQUE app. You can get codes, clear them and read fuel pressure and other sensors like O2. |
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10-06-2015, 12:38 AM | #5 | |
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10-06-2015, 12:44 AM | #6 |
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10-06-2015, 12:47 AM | #7 |
ZEROdoubleZERO
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10-06-2015, 01:02 AM | #8 |
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10-06-2015, 09:40 AM | #11 |
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BMS Stage 1 or 2 will expose the weak components of your N63. For me, it was an ignition coil in Bank 1 that was never changed due to it being "in tolerance" during CCP. So I took it to another BMW dealer and they changed everything that wasn't changed during the initial CCP.
It's probably your plugs, if it was something like an injector or a coil you would throw a drivetrain malfunction on WOT |
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10-06-2015, 10:21 AM | #12 | |
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10-06-2015, 10:26 AM | #13 | |
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Are you under factory warranty? I feel like I need to take my car to a different bmw dealer and have them inspect what was and wasn't changed back when I did the CCP in March. |
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10-06-2015, 10:45 AM | #14 |
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How difficult is changing the spark plugs? Same as any other car ? Does any coding have to be done to the vehicle at the bmw dealer after ? I'm looking to have a Indy shop do it for me .
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10-06-2015, 11:40 AM | #15 |
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I changed mine, I have pretty solid mechanical experience, but even for an inexperienced person I would rate it a 3 out of 10 on difficulty.
You need the BMW socket, or a socket with an integral spring clip to hold the plug in place while taking it out or putting it in. The arrangement in the head is near vertical. Outside of that, you need to remove the air boxes and engine cover. A small flat head screwdriver can flip up the cam lock for the coils, and the coil plugs are only long enough to go to their coil, so you can't reconnect them incorrectly. As you pry the cam lock up on the coil, the cam lock pushes the plug out, then with a slight pull the coils come straight out. After that, remove the plugs like any other car. Aluminum heads, so ensure the car is cooled down completely before removing. I pulled air boxes and coils in under 10 minutes, then set a fan on top of the engine blowing down into the plug holes for a few hours to make sure it was cooled down. You don't want to strip the threads in the head, as I'm not sure about repairs if they are damaged (helicoil, etc). Good luck, you can definitely do it!
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10-06-2015, 11:40 AM | #16 |
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Spark plugs do not need any coding... any Indy shop can do it without a problem
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10-06-2015, 12:16 PM | #17 |
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wow...sux to hear you're having issues!
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10-06-2015, 12:22 PM | #18 |
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did they give you a sheet with the work performed ? maybe some stuff passed the test at the time.
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10-06-2015, 12:25 PM | #19 | |
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10-06-2015, 01:14 PM | #20 |
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Go to the "changing spark plugs thread" I've included pictures, and it was super easy.
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10-06-2015, 02:08 PM | #21 | |
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10-06-2015, 08:17 PM | #22 |
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