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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications RaceChip Ultimate Install Pictures for 535i (F10), aFe Scorcher, BMS Stage1 Thoughts?
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      12-21-2014, 07:59 PM   #23
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@ROBNYC, .

@TShoot, keep us posted. Maybe we can meet up to get some coding done and test out our cars .
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      12-21-2014, 09:28 PM   #24
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      12-21-2014, 11:16 PM   #25
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Since we're posting pics : BMW X5 50i X-line with RaceChip TB Ultimate























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      12-22-2014, 10:16 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by opasha View Post
@ROBNYC, .

@TShoot, keep us posted. Maybe we can meet up to get some coding done and test out our cars .
Sounds awesome to me. Got an X1 for a loaner car today. Surprisingly quick and somewhat nimble SUV/large car. Can't imagine what an X5 50 would be like to drive, especially with a RC TB installed.

I did ask for a 550i x-Drive w/M-Sport package for a loaner but they didn't even go that high. 535i was their top-end loaner vehicle.
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      12-22-2014, 10:35 AM   #27
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opasha, Did your harness only have the two MAP sensor connections for the front? My RaceChip Ultimate came with two harnesses and I thought the guy said one was for my car and one was for a 50i. (I got an 8720 harnass in my box also)

For some reason, I thought you had 4 separate connections points on the engine (twice what mine had) and I was wondering how they all connected back to a single RC TB.

But, from your pictures, it only looks like you only connect to the two MAP sensors in the front. Is that correct?
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      12-22-2014, 02:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
opasha, Did your harness only have the two MAP sensor connections for the front? My RaceChip Ultimate came with two harnesses and I thought the guy said one was for my car and one was for a 50i. (I got an 8720 harnass in my box also)

For some reason, I thought you had 4 separate connections points on the engine (twice what mine had) and I was wondering how they all connected back to a single RC TB.

But, from your pictures, it only looks like you only connect to the two MAP sensors in the front. Is that correct?
Yes, only to the two MAP connectors. Make sure you use the right harness that connects or else you will get a CEL or drivetrain malfunction. The one with the pink color ends (8720).
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      12-22-2014, 06:10 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by opasha View Post
Yes, only to the two MAP connectors. Make sure you use the right harness that connects or else you will get a CEL or drivetrain malfunction. The one with the pink color ends (8720).
The other harnass (8720) won't even physically fit my MAP sensors. Thanks for the clarification.

Now, I just need to but a 550i to fit my other harness.
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      12-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
The other harnass (8720) won't even physically fit my MAP sensors. Thanks for the clarification.

Now, I just need to but a 550i to fit my other harness.
No problem. Whichever harness fits correctly without causing CELs is the right one.You should hear the harness snap into place like the factory plugs.
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      12-22-2014, 06:53 PM   #31
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No problem. Whichever harness fits correctly without causing CELs is the right one.You should hear the harness snap into place like the factory plugs.
I have the PITA clips that need to be pried open to disengage the plug. Seems like they would be able to break rather easily after repeated attempts. Believe it or not, I think the release mechanism for yours is easier.
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      12-22-2014, 08:00 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
I have the PITA clips that need to be pried open to disengage the plug. Seems like they would be able to break rather easily after repeated attempts. Believe it or not, I think the release mechanism for yours is easier.
Actually, mine was not that easy. Also, the mechanic that messed up the install for mine the first time before I did it myself broke the clip for on of them and I had to use a pocket knife nail filer tip to open it .

So, I feel your pain .
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      12-22-2014, 08:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opasha View Post
Actually, mine was not that easy. Also, the mechanic that messed up the install for mine the first time before I did it myself broke the clip for on of them and I had to use a pocket knife nail filer tip to open it .

So, I feel your pain .
Leatherman is your friend. I have had to McGuyver so many a things. ;-)
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      01-04-2015, 08:53 AM   #34
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Hey TShoot Happy New Year
How is it going with RC ?
Any videos?
Install BMW Laptimer if you have iPhone
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      01-04-2015, 01:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBNYC View Post
Hey TShoot Happy New Year
How is it going with RC ?
Any videos?
Install BMW Laptimer if you have iPhone
Hi ROBNYC,

The RC is working fine once I figured up how to hook it up correctly after getting bad installation instructions from RC USA.

Stock setting came in with switch setting at S2=B. Could feel a noticeable difference. Have worked my way up to S2=D. Now, I can feel a REAL difference but gas mileage has gone down a bit.

The app BMW Laptimer isn't supported on Android phone. But, what I did was buy a Bluetooth OBD2 connector off of Amazon and installed both Torque Pro and Dash Command (really great apps - I think I like Dash Command a bit better).

Both are full of more info than I can digest but I mainly care about HP, TRQ, Speed, RPMs, 0-60 times, coolant temperature, etc.

I haven't really been able to play as much as I would like because the wife is home with me over the Christmas break and she doesn't like me "wasting" my time "playing' with my car versus spending time with her.

I entered all of the vitals in to both apps: type of car, engine size in liters, automatic gear ratios from 1st to 6th and overall drive ratio. I also added the car weight with fluids, gas and two people in the car. I usually only have one when I am running it hard but I probably have over 100lbs in tools, air compressor, battery jumpstart, emergency, stuff, etc. in the trunk.

So the applications seem like they should be accurate since they utilize the info from the Bluetooth OBD2 connector, the Android gyrometer, GPS, speed and RPMs.

I did one hard pull from stop to about 70 MPH and it said max torque was about 348 ft/lbs and max power was around 354 HP.

Need to check with the app to see if these numbers are at flywheel or at the rear wheel. Haven't had time to dig in yet but, either way, if it is correct, it's still pretty impressive.

It is absolutely amazing what info these apps can pull off of the car since they tie directly into the info pulled by the OBD2 device. WAY more stuff that I care about for now but I am sure, as I use it, I will use them more if nothing more than to form a baseline to see what changes I make do to the normal settings.

I would like to compare the readings for the RC, the aFe Scorcher and the BMS tunes but it takes time and I was playing a little to much according to the lady of the house.

Also, not sure how high to tweak the settings on the RC. I am going to run it at S2=D for a while until I get a baseline for it before I try bumping it up.

The apps can also read and clear codes, let you know if you should pass emissions, can detect any engine knock (pre-detonation) under load and the list just goes on and on.

No videos yet but I did take quite a few pictures. I just have to find the time to download them off of my phone on to my PC to upload them here.

How is your RC installation and testing going?
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      01-04-2015, 01:38 PM   #36
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TShoot , fantastic write-up, my friend . I'm glad you're enjoying the RC. I might have to look into getting the OBD2 scanner. Any recommendations? If I want to test, which is more user friendly without having to enter in too much information: Dash Command or Torque? I have a Note 4 (Android lover for life ).
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      01-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opasha View Post
TShoot , fantastic write-up, my friend . I'm glad you're enjoying the RC. I might have to look into getting the OBD2 scanner. Any recommendations? If I want to test, which is more user friendly without having to enter in too much information: Dash Command or Torque? I have a Note 4 (Android lover for life ).
I got mine from Amazon, a ScanTool 427201 OBDLink LX Bluetooth (Green). They make cheaper versions but this got one of the highest ratings on the TORQUE wiki - https://torque-bhp.com/wiki/Bluetooth_Adapters. I had read about the Torque Pro app before the DashCommand app so I tried to find the best adapter to use with the app plus it gets great ratings.

The Bluetooth version of the ScanTool OBDLink scanners ONLY WORK with Android and Windows - not iOS (you would need to get the 802.11 wireless version for iOS devices and all others).

ScanLink gives you a quick start guide on how to pair your Android phone/tablet with the Bluetooth adapter. You have to install it into the ODB port on your vehicle (mine was above my left knee under the dashboard while sitting in the driver's seat - but, I'm sure you know that since you have been coding your vehicle already). It also comes with a free Android app called OBDLink that is pretty decent in itself and you will want to use this to initially pair your phone to the device.

The vehicle has to be on and not started for the pairing process to work (push the start button without your foot on the brake). It will prompt you for a passcode. Once it is paired, it will run through a diagnostic check of the vehicle.

From there you can clear any error codes if there are any (except pending and permanent - your car has to clear them after running it for a bit). And, you can obviously clear the Check Engine Light (CEL). After this, you can turn on the car and monitor things in real-time.

So, along with ODBLink (app from the manufacturer which is pretty decent), I also installed Torque Pro and DashCommand. Both are very configurable and you can add customized gauges on just about ANYTHING you would want (there is a list) and more. The only thing I couldn't add was oil temp but you have that on the BMW dashboard anyway.

I leave the Bluetooth ODB scanner attached to my car all of the time. This one will not drain your battery like some other's can and it is in a very compact package that I don't even notice.

What I have learned is that the Android OS does not like having multiple apps trying to access the bluetooth OBD scanner at once. And, it doesn't like jumping from one app to the next even through you shut the last app down.

The only way I could find to fix the inability to access the OBD socket connection once it was buggered up, was to restart my phone (it only takes a minute or two). After that, you access what ever app you need without any problems.

I bought both apps because they were reasonable (like $5-$10 each) to see which one I liked and to have a backup if the one of them pooped the bed on me. ;-)

Overall, I default to the DashCommand app, I really like the layout and it gave me the speed, RPM, HP, TQ in one easy to read dashboard and it keeps track of the highest value reached on HP and TQ. You can also log the data and email a spreadsheet of it to yourself that had my head spinning with timestamps and every sensor your could imagine. I need to sort that one out more. And, if you use it, I would only use it for short intervals. Too much time-stamped info for me when I ran it for 15 minutes or so just playing around.

I want to get more of a dyno graph of HP and TQ versus RPM but could not figure it out with my limited amount of time using the apps.

So, for around $70 for the bluetooth OBD2 scanner and maybe $10 for a single app, you get a WEALTH of information about your vehicle and the ability to read and clear fault codes.

Trust me you will spend way too much time fiddling with this to even touch probably 1/10 of what it can do.

I truly think it is an invaluable tool, especially if you add your vehicle's specifications and total weight, etc.

It is the only way I can think of other than paying for multiple dyno runs to truly see what a tune or change does for you. And, the dyno runs don't give 1/50th of what this tool does.

I would not go without it now that I have used it.

Hope this helps. If not, let me know.
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      01-04-2015, 05:12 PM   #38
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TShoot , that was an incredible write-up. Thanks, buddy! I'll look into getting this tool when I get my car back and download DashCommand. This will be very useful in seeing the changes in the chip parameters from stock to D.
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      01-04-2015, 05:59 PM   #39
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You can get most of the specifications for your vehicle out of the brochure for your vehicle and year. That is where I found mine. I think gas is about 6.5lbs per gallon, your bodyweight, misc. weight, etc.

Any questions, let me know. Hope this helped.
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      01-08-2015, 07:20 PM   #40
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      01-09-2015, 07:46 PM   #41
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Hi ROBNYC,

Everything is going well. Still haven't had much of a chance to put the car through its paces yet. The one test I did using the DashCommand app hooked to the Bluetooth OBD2 connector, GPS and accelerometer showed about an additional 50HP and 50ft/lbs of torque.

I would like to take a day or half of a day to try out a bunch of runs in different settings (repeating a setup for a couple of runs with the same app and then a different one to see how consistent they are and then adjust the setting - go from stock to my current setting of S2=D).

Anecdotally, the car feels like it picked up a bunch of low end torque. And, if the DashCommnand app is correct, it did.

Even my wife asked me what I did to the car because the car seemed picked up quicker and "rode smoother" (translate to car terms - less turbo lag).

I never told her about the RC install but I did tell her I was "working on the car".

So how about you, anything interesting with the new setup? What setting did you move up to? Did you ever go too high and get any CEL or Drive Train malfunction errors?

For me moving up 2 settings from S2=B to S2=D gave me a lot more torque at the cost of about 3 mpg less in fuel economy in similar driving styles (less aggressive mostly highway). And, a LOT less mpg when I had my foot into it all of the time when I first installed it.
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      01-15-2015, 06:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Hi ROBNYC,

Everything is going well. Still haven't had much of a chance to put the car through its paces yet. The one test I did using the DashCommand app hooked to the Bluetooth OBD2 connector, GPS and accelerometer showed about an additional 50HP and 50ft/lbs of torque.

I would like to take a day or half of a day to try out a bunch of runs in different settings (repeating a setup for a couple of runs with the same app and then a different one to see how consistent they are and then adjust the setting - go from stock to my current setting of S2=D).

Anecdotally, the car feels like it picked up a bunch of low end torque. And, if the DashCommnand app is correct, it did.

Even my wife asked me what I did to the car because the car seemed picked up quicker and "rode smoother" (translate to car terms - less turbo lag).

I never told her about the RC install but I did tell her I was "working on the car".

So how about you, anything interesting with the new setup? What setting did you move up to? Did you ever go too high and get any CEL or Drive Train malfunction errors?

For me moving up 2 settings from S2=B to S2=D gave me a lot more torque at the cost of about 3 mpg less in fuel economy in similar driving styles (less aggressive mostly highway). And, a LOT less mpg when I had my foot into it all of the time when I first installed it.
Additional 50HP/50TQ that is impressive
Hope you're enjoying it man!

What you can do is test factory setting 30miles check how much HP/TQ is producing, record it or write it down next to its setting, then increase and do the same 0-50 or 0-60 is fine, if you feel or have the highway for more like 50-90 or 60-100 by all means too.

You increased from B to D lol, I think you're fine but next time spend some time on B, C, D, each more before increasing its better to be safe than sorry and at least when you do 30 miles on each mode you start getting a feeling how the handle is responding and use it mostly in your most used mode, for me is EcoPro or Comfort barely any place to enjoy Sport and Sport+ =\

I moved up from C, D, E, F, 0, 1, 2, and going to 3 today.
The videos I have recorded and uploaded on youtube I really like D, E, F, need to look again over 0, 1 was really good (beat my E90 335 MT friend), and 1 was with a good launch it's about 70% 35i territory.. Now 2 that is very much nearing 35i terrority 80% .. Lets see how 3 plays, 4 and 5 ..

Below is some information I wanted to share with you I was given from RaceChip Germany to me.
Quote:
On stock setting ‘C’ you actually have an increase of about 13-15 %.
Every further position clockwise is a further increase of about 1.5 %.
The maximum is reached on pos. ‘7’ though.

we always use 98 octane fuel when testing our modules. The lowest fuel quality in Germany is 95 octane
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      01-16-2015, 06:53 AM   #43
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Did you feel a noticeable improvement in each higher setting? Any issues (CEL, Drive Train Failure, loss of gas mileage, etc.)

Yep, 7 if the highest setting for everyone and 8 is the lowest setting.

Now you make me want to bump it up higher.

So far, a decent bump in torque and HP with about a 2-3 less mpg in similar driving style. Went from about 24mpg down to around 21mpg. Worth it to me - maybe not if someone is much more concerned about getting the highest mpg.

With the bump in performance, it is making my urge to get a 550ix as soon as possible, subside a bit. So for me, it was worth the price of the RC. With the ease of install/de-install on my motor and the bump in performance, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't hesitate.

I also wouldn't hesitate to recommend the aFe Scorcher to someone either. Also really easy to install with a nice bump in torque and HP and gas mileage seemed to stay the same.

Once the weather gets better, I'll get a chance to play more and update this thread.

Have a great weekend my friends!
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      01-16-2015, 10:52 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by TShoot View Post
Did you feel a noticeable improvement in each higher setting? Any issues (CEL, Drive Train Failure, loss of gas mileage, etc.)

Yep, 7 if the highest setting for everyone and 8 is the lowest setting.

Now you make me want to bump it up higher.

So far, a decent bump in torque and HP with about a 2-3 less mpg in similar driving style. Went from about 24mpg down to around 21mpg. Worth it to me - maybe not if someone is much more concerned about getting the highest mpg.

With the bump in performance, it is making my urge to get a 550ix as soon as possible, subside a bit. So for me, it was worth the price of the RC. With the ease of install/de-install on my motor and the bump in performance, if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't hesitate.

I also wouldn't hesitate to recommend the aFe Scorcher to someone either. Also really easy to install with a nice bump in torque and HP and gas mileage seemed to stay the same.

Once the weather gets better, I'll get a chance to play more and update this thread.

Have a great weekend my friends!
Improvement is noticed but im recording each setting so I won't think its just me and then I look at them over to see. Racechip USA recommends 1-3 settings above stock is most optimal without hurting your MPG. Have you tried your current setting in a highway cruise? It does make sense more power does use more fuel but thats ok right since this is the whole point we were looking for.
I've noticed if I drive Efficient it behaves like so.

No issues never seen CEL, Drivetrain malf, and loss of gas mpg is going to happen when you start increasing higher than 3-4 ticks im noticing but it all depends on your foot and how much are you stomping it.

RacechipUSA replied with
Quote:
based on the software (depends on the vehicle) that range is different. It is like a hifi system. Normally the amplifier has more power than the speaker can take. This is so that when turning up the volume 2/3 the audio is still clear but that does not mean turning the volume up 100% gives the best output because at that point it is beyond the speakers capability.

Same here with the module. With 7 you will definitively get a light eventually. If 2 or 3 settings higher work for you that is fine and it is what we feel is a good value. There will be some engines due to tolerance that won't go higher than C and others that go higher than C.
Weather is great right now 37F very sunny out so it makes it feel above 40. Just took a drive out with my E90 335 friend, I increased my RC to "3" .. I'm guessing the winter is helping the chip achieve higher settings maybe. But what Paul said does make a lot of sense, even opasha has said that before to me.

Post some pictures, videos, of your settings with the HP/TQ i cant wait to see and show these people Racechip delivers!
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