2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
 

2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Navigation, iDrive, Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Phone, Coding Standard speakers upgraded to OEM Top Hifi (retrofit)
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-02-2013, 11:44 AM   #23
messiry
Second Lieutenant
messiry's Avatar
United_States
122
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: F15 X5 35, E60 530
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Springfield gardens

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrussell View Post
Just a quick note, the rear mids you ordered are not the correct ones, they should be a direct fit as they only do one rear shelf type regardless of audio, you have used the front/rear door mids where you require 65 13 9 169 690 x2 & the correct subs are 65 13 9 169 687 & 65 13 9 169 688, these are also a direct fit.
Hi mcrussell, do you think the 65 13 9 169 690 has a cross over on it back side like what the front speakers have, i have done the front door mids, the front tweeters and now looking to do the back and the subs.
thnx
Appreciate 0
      06-05-2013, 08:53 AM   #24
petro1head
Private
5
Rep
45
Posts

Drives: E89 Z4
Join Date: May 2013
Location: UK

iTrader: (0)

I looked up the cost for that and its nearly £1500!!

I would have thought the money better spent of Focals front and rear and Earthquake SWS8 for the underseats
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2013, 06:36 AM   #25
dark1x
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: Acura TL
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by petro1head View Post
I looked up the cost for that and its nearly £1500!!

I would have thought the money better spent of Focals front and rear and Earthquake SWS8 for the underseats
Could you recommend some Focal speakers for the F10? I'm not sure exactly which speakers would be compatible with the car.
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2013, 07:13 PM   #26
mcrussell
New Member
2
Rep
17
Posts

Drives: e90 Alpina D3
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: UK

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by messiry View Post
Hi mcrussell, do you think the 65 13 9 169 690 has a cross over on it back side like what the front speakers have, i have done the front door mids, the front tweeters and now looking to do the back and the subs.
thnx
Hi,

All tweeters should have xover inline but not the mids, this is because the logic7 amp only send mid & Hi frequencies on the corresponding channels.
Appreciate 1
O1NE0.00
      06-18-2013, 10:17 AM   #27
messiry
Second Lieutenant
messiry's Avatar
United_States
122
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: F15 X5 35, E60 530
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Springfield gardens

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Hi, the front tweeters didn't have xover's actually the mids had it on the back, i simply connected the cable coming from the sub to the mid, and connected the tweeter to the mid too. was really simple. now i just want to confirm the back mids can take 2 plugs exactly as the front ones.
Appreciate 0
      07-03-2013, 06:47 PM   #28
cjp2k
Enlisted Member
12
Rep
31
Posts

Drives: F10 520D
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: uk

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrussell View Post
Just a quick note, the rear mids you ordered are not the correct ones, they should be a direct fit as they only do one rear shelf type regardless of audio, you have used the front/rear door mids where you require 65 13 9 169 690 x2 & the correct subs are 65 13 9 169 687 & 65 13 9 169 688, these are also a direct fit.
Hi mcrussell can you confirm that the sub part codes you listed are a direct swap and require no wiring changes unlike the op

Thanks
Appreciate 0
      07-14-2013, 06:39 PM   #29
jorgerrrr
New Member
2
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: M550xd
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Madrid, Spain

iTrader: (0)

Do you need to code something after changing the speakers? Or just change the speakers and trun on the radio?
Appreciate 0
      07-16-2013, 08:55 PM   #30
ATOMBOY
Second Lieutenant
ATOMBOY's Avatar
Taiwan
9
Rep
270
Posts

Drives: F10 520D
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Taiwan

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgerrrr View Post
Do you need to code something after changing the speakers? Or just change the speakers and trun on the radio?
I believe no coding is required
Appreciate 0
      08-01-2013, 03:54 PM   #31
jorgerrrr
New Member
2
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: M550xd
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Madrid, Spain

iTrader: (0)

And if i install the speakers and the amp of the top hifi system? Is just plug and play?

Can anyone tell me if i need to code something or do something after installing?
Appreciate 0
      08-02-2013, 01:23 PM   #32
cjp2k
Enlisted Member
12
Rep
31
Posts

Drives: F10 520D
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: uk

iTrader: (0)

I have completed the install, and can confirm that the Subs ARE NOT plug and play.

I got some second hand subs from ebay.de and they came with the connector and partial wiring.

The connecter on the car is slightly different and wont plug in and as said before you need to bridge the smaller wires with the bigger wires, I got a loom made up from my local auto electrician to connect the ebay plug with my oem plug and not have to cut any wires

No coding is required just plug in and away you go.

TIP... if you change the subs, remove the under seat air pipe as it makes fitting the slightly bigger sub easier...
Appreciate 0
      08-02-2013, 03:28 PM   #33
jorgerrrr
New Member
2
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: M550xd
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Madrid, Spain

iTrader: (0)

Have you changed also the amp? Or just speakers and subs?

How is the sound now with the new ones?
Appreciate 0
      08-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #34
cjp2k
Enlisted Member
12
Rep
31
Posts

Drives: F10 520D
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: uk

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgerrrr View Post
Have you changed also the amp? Or just speakers and subs?

How is the sound now with the new ones?
Just speakers and sub's. Sounds much better clearer and no breakup at high volume would be better with amp as well but that's too much work
Appreciate 1
O1NE0.00
      08-17-2013, 05:44 AM   #35
Technic
Lieutenant General
Technic's Avatar
2258
Rep
12,985
Posts

Drives: 2021 i3S, 2024 i4 M50
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florida

iTrader: (18)

OP's system is the Stereo, where the iDrive powers the 6 speakers (front, rear and underseat) directly with just 25W per 4 channels; no tweeters and no external OEM amp.

The Stereo underseat woofers are connected in parallel to the door mids, thus the 4 wires at the woofers. All mid and underseat speakers are 4 ohms in the Stereo system, but because the front and the underseat woofers are connected in parallel the iDrive front load is 2ohms. The iDrive is stable at 2 ohms.

Why all this explanation?

When you replace the OEM speakers in the Stereo system you are actually changing as well the load to the iDrive unit. Because the front and woofers are connected in parallel then things could get messy if the load drops below 2 ohms -as in replacing the mid and underseat woofers with Top HiFi (677) speakers for example. Top HiFi mid + tweeters speakers become 2ohms when connected together and the woofers are 4 ohms by themselves. When connected in parallel (not designed to be connected in parallel in the 677 or 676 systems) they will create a load to the iDrive of 1.33ohm.

The iDrive unit is not stable at 1.33ohm.

So before any speakers are replaced in the Stereo system you should take a look to what you are actually doing to the iDrive unit. The system will sound great at the beginning just because the lower the load the higher the power output. But that higher output comes with more heat inside the iDrive unit. More heat that was not intended by design to be there.

Your iDrive unit will overheat sooner or later, and then it will just fail.

Take care...

Last edited by Technic; 10-01-2013 at 04:29 AM.. Reason: Resistance in parallel correction
Appreciate 0
      08-24-2013, 02:09 PM   #36
ppatel223
Banned
31
Rep
372
Posts

Drives: F10 I3.0
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AR

iTrader: (0)

I replaced HIFI OEM amp with JBL ms8 with Technic's harness, set it up using Technic's guide. I have calibrated only driver seat and on second attempt all seats. But both times after done calibrating, most sound comes from left driver side, passenger side and rear has low sound coming. Everything is connected correctly. There is little sound from center or right side. It is like listening to left channel only. Any thought?
Appreciate 0
      08-24-2013, 08:44 PM   #37
Technic
Lieutenant General
Technic's Avatar
2258
Rep
12,985
Posts

Drives: 2021 i3S, 2024 i4 M50
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florida

iTrader: (18)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ppatel223 View Post
I replaced HIFI OEM amp with JBL ms8 with Technic's harness, set it up using Technic's guide. I have calibrated only driver seat and on second attempt all seats. But both times after done calibrating, most sound comes from left driver side, passenger side and rear has low sound coming. Everything is connected correctly. There is little sound from center or right side. It is like listening to left channel only. Any thought?
Create your own thread, please...
Appreciate 0
      08-30-2013, 09:46 AM   #38
mathematics
Captain
mathematics's Avatar
United_States
69
Rep
994
Posts

Drives: 08 328i e93 alpine white
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Queens, NY

iTrader: (0)

i can't believe so much money was spent on an OEM "upgrade" that most people can't wait to upgrade from because it sounds terrible. you ended up having to cut and drill anyway. should have went aftermarket with actual quality.

also, Technic is correct about the different loads being presented. i'm surprised your unit even lasted this long.

I don't advise anyone to go this route. There are MANY different options available for those that want a stock appearance.
__________________
iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
Appreciate 0
      09-25-2013, 07:47 PM   #39
JUSTIN808
Private First Class
United_States
7
Rep
103
Posts

Drives: 22 X4MC, 22 Ridgeline RTLE.
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: HONOLULU

iTrader: (0)

Has anyone done a hi fi to top hi fi speaker upgrade? Will the 676 amp have enough power to push the 677 speakers?
Appreciate 0
      09-27-2013, 01:52 AM   #40
sausewind
New Member
2
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: F11
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Europe

iTrader: (0)

The power of 676-amp is barely ok für the 677 speakers. There is only one significant difference: The 676-subs have 2 Ohms , the 677-subs have 8 Ohms, so you must turn on bass-control to max when you driving 677-subs with 676-amp
Of course, after retrofit to 677-amp you can play higher volume and more powerfull bass.
I retrofitted my F11 from 676 to 677.
Appreciate 0
      09-27-2013, 04:28 AM   #41
Technic
Lieutenant General
Technic's Avatar
2258
Rep
12,985
Posts

Drives: 2021 i3S, 2024 i4 M50
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florida

iTrader: (18)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JUSTIN808 View Post
Has anyone done a hi fi to top hi fi speaker upgrade? Will the 676 amp have enough power to push the 677 speakers?
It is better (and easier) to just replace the 676 OEM amp with aftermarket.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2013, 03:56 AM   #42
JUSTIN808
Private First Class
United_States
7
Rep
103
Posts

Drives: 22 X4MC, 22 Ridgeline RTLE.
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: HONOLULU

iTrader: (0)

thanks,

I just decided to replace front door mids from hi fi to top hi fi mids as I feel these are the biggest downfall of the system. I'm sure the bass with top hi fi subs and top hi fi amp rock but I'm content with the bass for now.

I'll try this configuration first and see. I may be back here asking sausewind how he upgraded his system from the hi fi to top hi fi in the end. thanks...
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2013, 09:28 AM   #43
Technic
Lieutenant General
Technic's Avatar
2258
Rep
12,985
Posts

Drives: 2021 i3S, 2024 i4 M50
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florida

iTrader: (18)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JUSTIN808 View Post
thanks,

I just decided to replace front door mids from hi fi to top hi fi mids as I feel these are the biggest downfall of the system. I'm sure the bass with top hi fi subs and top hi fi amp rock but I'm content with the bass for now.

I'll try this configuration first and see. I may be back here asking sausewind how he upgraded his system from the hi fi to top hi fi in the end. thanks...
The Top HiFi woofers are 7ohms and the Top HiFi OEM amp output is about 125w. The HiFi woofers are 2ohms and their power is 40W. Both use the same ~4 amps to move their woofers but much different voltage levels to accomplish their job.

What the Top HiFi will give you is a more defined and accurate bass and mostly because of the different driver, but not necessarily a much louder or deeper bass than the HiFi. You will get a much better result with replacing the front HiFi components with Top HiFi as both are 2ohms, but the Top HiFi components are more sensitive and accurate. So the 25W to those components are going to be more efficient.

By the way -going from HiFi to Top HiFi requires rewiring (including new fiber optic cables and connectors) and coding. Unless you get the parts extremely cheap and you do the job yourself then the upgrade will not make any economic sense as it will not sound as good for the cost as a well-thought aftermarket system.
Appreciate 0
      09-28-2013, 04:55 PM   #44
JUSTIN808
Private First Class
United_States
7
Rep
103
Posts

Drives: 22 X4MC, 22 Ridgeline RTLE.
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: HONOLULU

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
The Top HiFi woofers are 7ohms and the Top HiFi OEM amp output is about 125w. The HiFi woofers are 2ohms and their power is 40W. Both use the same ~4 amps to move their woofers but much different voltage levels to accomplish their job.

What the Top HiFi will give you is a more defined and accurate bass and mostly because of the different driver, but not necessarily a much louder or deeper bass than the HiFi. You will get a much better result with replacing the front HiFi components with Top HiFi as both are 2ohms, but the Top HiFi components are more sensitive and accurate. So the 25W to those components are going to be more efficient.

By the way -going from HiFi to Top HiFi requires rewiring (including new fiber optic cables and connectors) and coding. Unless you get the parts extremely cheap and you do the job yourself then the upgrade will not make any economic sense as it will not sound as good for the cost as a well-thought aftermarket system.
Thanks for the info. If I need better sound after the front speaker replacements I will go aftermarket. I don't know of any coders in my state and this would make it impossible to upgrade to top hi fi. I appreciate all the info you provided. Thank you...
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 AM.




5post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST