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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs Optimum Opti-Guard
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      09-12-2012, 01:53 AM   #23
jenks89
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What's up guys!

Got my car fully paint corrected and then coated with Opti Guard about two weeks ago. Haven't seen to much info on this forum about it so just wanted to put my .02 in.

AMAZING! Having a Jet Black car it only took 2-3 washes (proper two bucket etc) to start seeing light swirl marks and other marring. This is the most PITA paint I have ever had on a vehicle by far! Something had to be done. Enter Opti Guard.....

My detailer had been telling me about it for a while so I finally pulled the trigger. It's a great product. Water beading/sheeting will freak you out the first time you see it. Nothing seems to cling to the coated finish at all (dirt, grime, brake dust).
Have washed it twice since being coated and it is literally spotless after the initial rinse. Quite incredible. The coating is also supposed to make etching from contaminants out of the question. But time will tell on that one. Best part is there is no need to wax or seal because they will not bond to the Opti Guard. So only thing needed are basic washes, maybe a quick detail spray for added gloss, and tire shine. Cuts down on cost big time.

Overall I am very pleased so far. If anyone has any questions let me know!

Jenks, your paint look really amazing. Would you ask your guy, who applied this to your car for you, if he knows anyone in San Antonio who does this?

Thank you.
Yeah I can ask for you! From what I understand optimum can also refer you to its licensed dealers. Might be the best route if you want to have it done professionally.
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      09-12-2012, 11:33 AM   #24
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Yeah I can ask for you! From what I understand optimum can also refer you to its licensed dealers. Might be the best route if you want to have it done professionally.
Went to the company website. No references for San Antonio. However, I watched a video on how to apply the product. Looks very simple and easy to do.
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      09-14-2012, 10:35 AM   #25
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Ordered some Opti Coat 2.0 this week. My BMW is only about a month old. Regardless, I'm glong to clay bar it first before laying down the Opti Coat 2.0.

The instructions say it remains tacky after application and recommends not touching it to allow for a perfect application. However, nowhere does it state how long it takes to completely cure before you can safely touch it without fear of marring the application.

Anyone know?
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      09-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #26
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Went to the company website. No references for San Antonio. However, I watched a video on how to apply the product. Looks very simple and easy to do.
It's harder in real life than on the videos. The real work is the prep. The car has to be surgically clean and free of any swirls before you attempt this, or else you will lock those swirls in. The real trick is to avoid high spots or else your gonna get something that looks like this:


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The instructions say it remains tacky after application and recommends not touching it to allow for a perfect application. However, nowhere does it state how long it takes to completely cure before you can safely touch it without fear of marring the application.
Anyone know?
The product will flash within a minute or two. Depends on heat, humidity, type of paint. Once in flashes you can touch it. There is no curing, like in traditional wax or sealants. Just to be safe I wouldn't touch it for a day, but I don't think it matters.
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      09-14-2012, 03:18 PM   #27
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It's harder in real life than on the videos. The real work is the prep. The car has to be surgically clean and free of any swirls before you attempt this, or else you will lock those swirls in. The real trick is to avoid high spots or else your gonna get something that looks like this:



The product will flash within a minute or two. Depends on heat, humidity, type of paint. Once in flashes you can touch it. There is no curing, like in traditional wax or sealants. Just to be safe I wouldn't touch it for a day, but I don't think it matters.
Thanks for the feedback and picture Gato. With regard to the picture of the intentional high spot, did you subsequently gently wipe over it with a micro fiber towel and then all was good?
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      09-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #28
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Thanks for the feedback and picture Gato. With regard to the picture of the intentional high spot, did you subsequently gently wipe over it with a micro fiber towel and then all was good?
The high spots are much easier to see on darker colors. I find that gently gliding a MF towel over the area immediately after application evens out any high spots. I followed Rasky's application and it works perfectly.

Note:
If you start in the center of the panel and work out, the products speads much more evenly....
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      09-15-2012, 04:10 AM   #29
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I applied the OC and waited a few minutes to go over the panel with a MF towel. You aren't suppose to let the car get wet for atleast a few hours and you can wash the car in a day. The full curing process I hear could take weeks but bonding is done right away.

I left my car alone for a week before I wiped the car down or washed it again.

Alan
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      09-15-2012, 12:13 PM   #30
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Thanks, guys, for the feedback and added video. I'm ready to apply once it's delivered. Can't wait!
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      09-16-2012, 10:37 AM   #31
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Some of the other Youtube video show the use of Opti-Coat on the windshield. Did you all apply it to your windshields? Curious.
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      09-16-2012, 02:16 PM   #32
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Some of the other Youtube video show the use of Opti-Coat on the windshield. Did you all apply it to your windshields? Curious.
It's on all my windows minus the front windshield itself. My detailer advised that over time the wipers can wear down the finish and I would essentially see the outline from where they travel back and forth.
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      09-16-2012, 02:41 PM   #33
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It's on all my windows minus the front windshield itself. My detailer advised that over time the wipers can wear down the finish and I would essentially see the outline from where they travel back and forth.
Exactly. The wipers will wear the product down. The other windows are fine since they see little to no abrasion. But again, they have to be surgically clean before you apply it. Inside the handles too, people's nails scratch the shit out of this area:

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      09-17-2012, 09:18 AM   #34
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Did you all do a final wipedown prep with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) before applying the opti coat?

I notice the instructions on autogeek say to do a pre wipe down, before applying the opti coat, with 15% IPA. Do you buy 15% IPA or do you cut it with water?
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      09-17-2012, 09:38 AM   #35
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you cut it down with water. I did not wipe my car down since my car was new and i never waxed it. I washed my car with some Dawn soap and the paint felt super grabby telling me there wasn't any wax left on it.

Had i waxed my car in the past i would wipe it down with alcohol.

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Last edited by Alan l.; 09-17-2012 at 11:23 AM.
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      09-17-2012, 10:49 AM   #36
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you cut it down with water. I did not wipe my car down since my car was new and i never waxed it. I washed my car with some Dawn soap and the paint felt super grabby telling me there wasn't any wax left on it.

Had i waxed my car in the past i would wipe if down with alcohol.

Alan
Thanks, Alan.

I've had my BMW for about a month now and waxed it a week after I had it. I'm going to do as you did and give it a good thorough washing with Dawn and then a wipe down with the IPA.

I hope that after the Dawn washing I do not see any issues from my initial hand wash (swirling, etc.) otherwise I'll have to have it buffed out.

Thanks for your reply.
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      09-17-2012, 01:45 PM   #37
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I'm interested in this but not bold enough to trust myself to apply a semi-permanent product. Can anyone recommend someone in the Miami area? Also, what is a reasonable cost for a professional application on an F10?
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      09-18-2012, 08:56 PM   #38
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Hey guys. I got in touch with the authorized opti coat dealer in San Diego. He's charging me 500 for wash, one step correction, and opti coat.

My issue is he says optimum no rinse will be the prep and he can do it in about 4 hours. I'm not sure that you can really correct paint with swirls and apply the coat in 4 hours. Am I wrong?
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      09-18-2012, 11:00 PM   #39
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Not sure what you mean by Optimum No Rinse is the prep. Thats just a waterless car wash they Optimum sells. If all he is doing is washing the car with the No Rinse and opticoat then run. Thats a major rip off.

Paint correction will require you to cut into the paint with a polish. Its possible to do in 4-5 hours but don't expect it to be flawless like fresh paint.

I did the opticoat on my car myself and that took maybe an hour if that.

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      09-19-2012, 12:45 AM   #40
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Not sure what you mean by Optimum No Rinse is the prep. Thats just a waterless car wash they Optimum sells. If all he is doing is washing the car with the No Rinse and opticoat then run. Thats a major rip off.

Paint correction will require you to cut into the paint with a polish. Its possible to do in 4-5 hours but don't expect it to be flawless like fresh paint.

I did the opticoat on my car myself and that took maybe an hour if that.

Alan
Well he was talking about doing the car with the No Rinse and then doing a one step polish to get rid of the imperfections. I dont know.. the problem is I cant find another detailer who corrects AND does opti guard.
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      09-19-2012, 12:25 PM   #41
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Ok that is fine. I thought his one step was just the no rinse...

Price sounds about right. The optiguard alone is $60.

Jet black is the tuffest color to work on.

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      09-19-2012, 10:14 PM   #42
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Check out this guys review if you haven't already. Pretty damn amazing stuff. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...st-review.html

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      09-22-2012, 07:03 PM   #43
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Had my paint clay barred and polished this morning. Did an IPA wipe down and cleaned the windows thoroughly.

I purchased the Optimum Opti Dual Pro Applicator too. This was nice, as it made the pad very easy to grip and control.

My recommendation to anyone applying this product themselves is to either follow the instructions, mentioned earlier by Alan, and use the rubber glove and shop towel method or prime the hell out of the application pad, initially, instead.

I didn't follow Alan's method. Instead, I simply applied the Opti-coat in and "X" pattern on the pad. The surface of the pad kept grabbing and sticking on the surface of the paint preventing me from spreading the Opti Coat smoothly over the surface of the paint. I learned, very quickly, that you really have to prime the surface of the pad. Don't worry about applying too much or "high spots". Just do what Goatman said and, "gently glide a MF towel over the area immediately after application and this will even out any high spots".

My paint looks effing awesome!!!!! I couldn't be more happy!!!!!! The paint looks like you can dip your hand into it and pull out liquid. BTW, my paint color is, black sapphire metallic.

I'll post some pics soon.

Going to do the wife's car tomorrow. Should score some big points.

Jenks, thanks for starting this post!
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      09-22-2012, 08:31 PM   #44
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I didn't follow Alan's method. Instead, I simply applied the Opti-coat in and "X" pattern on the pad. The surface of the pad kept grabbing and sticking on the surface of the paint preventing me from spreading the Opti Coat smoothly over the surface of the paint.
I see you are in TX. This product can be temperature and humidity sensitive. If you try and apply this in a hot environment it flashes very quickly and makes it harder to spread evenly
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