I've been viewing a bunch of videos on coilover DIY - planning to do this in the next couple of weeks on my X-Drive.
My observations - the referenced video from the guy near Toronto - he pulls control arms in the rear that don't seem to be necessary. One of our friends from this forum has a video on replacing a rear shock. They show that if you remove the rear brake caliper the shock can pop right in. I'd much rather remove a caliper than a wishbone. I'll just replace the brake pads while I'm in there probably.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-gEss1FvjI
I'm shocked to hear someone say the front looks "easier" - to me the rear looks easier.
For the front - XDrive will be quite different than RWD. Again, the white one is an X-Drive so all the steps should match. The factory procedure starts with removing the heavily torqued nuts holding the hub - I think I'm probably going to try the Youtube procedure removing the upper wishbone instead.
Something that concerns me in ALL of the videos I see - despite KW going on and on about not using air tools on the strut top nuts, everyone says they know better and reef them on with air tools.
I bought a set of cheap offset box wrenches from Harbor Freight ($9.99 for a whole set of them) and used the proper method counter holding with a standard 1/4" socket on the shock shaft.
Also, strut hats/bearings are supposed to be replaced if the vehicle has >40,000km (KILOMETERS) on it. I got new Lemforder hats from the likes of FCP or ECS for a low price, and top spring pads are like $5 each. No spring compressors required for the job. I just built the coilovers with the new hats and pads and the old struts will go as-is complete in the spare parts pile in the basement.
Remember that almost all of these fasteners are technically single-use! Not a single video shows replacement hardware. In the case of the front strut-tops the bolts actually cut the threads.
A concern of mine - I don't think I'll have a Quickjack for the job and how high I can safely and confidently raise the car so I can yank at some of the high torques required is a concern. Getting my KWv3s has been a heck of an adventure due to repeated damage and issues with shipping the kit - I first laid out the cash almost a year ago. I just noticed some more damage (powder coat chipped right off) from shipping and I'm currently awaiting new front springs. Hoping to get these on during this spring with "COVID time".
Fingers crossed for spring 2020.
EDIT: Video on strut top nut installation with KW special tool kit. The cheap offset box wrench plus a socket set did the same thing for me with my v3s.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNVRQ-Wup2g
The wrenches:
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...box+wrench+set