Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73
I've just done this procedure tonight in my driveway using ramps. I used the ECS "kit" which has both bars, bushings, front brackets etc... Based on what I found on my 4/2011 production non-sport, non-DHP 535xi:
REAR:
- T30 and 16mm socket/wrench to work with the link ends.
- 16mm to work with the brackets
- break link ends with socket, switch to holding with wrench then drive the T30 opposite to unfasten
- IMO this would have been far easier with the suspension at least partially unloaded. The swing arms were simply in the way and I spent most of the whole job trying to get the old bar out and the new bar in. If the car were lifted halfway, it probably would have been a no brainer.
FRONT:
- 8mm nut driver/socket required for a zillion undertray bolts.
- be careful of the underbody members under the endlinks - they can be undone and carefully swung out of the way as long as the undertray plastic is still flexible (may not work in cold temps)
- T40 and 18mm required for end links
- E18 required for brackets
- Torques are quite high on the front, have sturdy tools.
- removal and reassembly are a no brainer on ramps with suspension in normal position
- the front bar is heavier, and more thought/caution should be taken with supporting the weight of the bar so it doesn't do collateral damage to yourself or to wiring, brake lines or plastic under the car. It's not heavy, but if you just whip out the bracket bolts and it shifts or falls you will damage something
- the bracket bolts are not the same length - PAY ATTENTION
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Just did sway bar work again. My hunch that unloading the rear suspension would help was correct. I used ramps for the work, and put my trolley jack under as well and lifted a couple of inches. The rear bar easily moves in and out of position with the suspension partially unloaded. It's a real 3D puzzle otherwise.