[mickeyvalentine]

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

I can assure you that the X5M front brake setup and the rears using the 750i rotors and M5 calipers would be very sufficient to stop the heavy car from illegal speeds and overall a great setup that won't kill the wallet at all if researched properly. Also, it is the most user friendly since they are all bolt on without modifications. The fronts will require a 4mm spacer between the caliper and the mounting point on the spindle while the rears only needed the M5 caliper carriers if you have the 550i since they share the same caliper design.

I’ll take your word for it. Did you do a thread on your upgrade/retrofit? I am very interest in this. I’ll do search on my own as well. Owning the 550i will definitely make it easier for me lol. It’s honestly not as easy on the F10 as it was on my E38 and E46. The upper control arm on the F10 scares me at how tight they fit it all. But then again just look at any new STI and the tolerance between the caliper and wheel is like 2 dimes.

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

It would make more sense in your situation to build up your tooling in order to comfortably do the job without fail.

Originally Posted by Unspec

- Motive power bleeder is 100% nice to have. It makes bleeding brakes a one man job, since it pressurizes the system for you. You also don't need to do the frantic "HOLD NO HOOOOOOOOOOLD OKAY LET GO" thing as you close and open the nipple since the system is always pressurized and won't so easily suck up old fluid/air. You also get the benefit of not having to risk the reservoir running dry and getting air into the master, which is a bitch to bleed since you have to get the air out a really, really, long distance. For 50 bucks, it's well worth it.

Definitely am now prepared material wise. I do like those benefits, I didn’t want the hassle. Besides its all pros in my eyes for the price. I do have a mightyvac but I really do not understand (and I don’t want to because it seems harder than it should be) how people use that to bleed the brakes. I use it for sucking out fluid from the reservoir (coolant or otherwise) if I fill it too much.
 

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

The prebleed was simple. You crack the bleeder screw while the caliper was not installed and allow fluid to pass through while physically rotating the caliper around to release any trapped air. It does sound quite silly and to be honest, I don't know if it mattered vs doing the old school bleed or better yet with the ISTA and power bleeder procedure.

I’ll try it out, if they designed it that way then it must be necessary. Thank you for that.

Originally Posted by Unspec

- A pre-bleed is where you let the air bleed out naturally before you do a "powered" bleed. It's really not that necessary. Unsure about rotating calipers though, since our calipers are specific to each corner.

So natural bleed first, then hook up the Motive and execute the powered bleed. Interesting. Yeah the rotating the caliper is quite confusing. My understanding thus far: I do not think it means rotate installation position on differing hubs, but rather the rotation of the piston within each caliper or quite literally, a slow spin and rotation of the caliper in hand to release any air bubbles. Which also doesn’t seem impactful as that is what pressure bleeder would accomplish. I don’t know.

Originally Posted by 550iFreak

You can find all that info on newtis.info where all the manuals for various BMW are located. You may need someone to refer you to the page since recently they took it down due to legal reasons and "right to work" on our own vehicles.

Shhhh first rule of fight club!

Originally Posted by Unspec

- You do not need ISTA if you did not take the calipers off and expose the lines to air. The ISTA process is for bleeding, not changing the brake fluids. If all you're doing is pushing out old fluid, it's fine to do a traditional fluid change since there's really no air being introduced to the system.

- No 4 pot rears will work on our cars, AFAIK, due to the electronic parking brake. Even M5's use the single pot floating calipers, and tbh it's more than enough given how front heavy our cars are.

- You need DOT4 Low Viscosity (LV) fluid. I use ATE SL.6. I would avoid using DOT 5.1, as I'm sure there's a reason BMW didn't spec DOT 5.1 fluids even on M cars. Maybe due to the fact that the higher the boiling point, the faster it accumulates water.

• I do not plan to remove calipers or lines this time around but I have been known to remove a caliper now and again on previous vehicles if the caliper was uncooperative with the pad change while still attached to the line. In the FUTURE I do plan to remove the calipers or maybe even do a upgrade as 550ifreak did. As well as SS lines. I got the cable, now I just need the programs. Edibas, insta +/p/d, ncs and all those good tools. I just cleaned my hard drive so I have 1 TB of space on one and 2TB on the other.

• Oh really?! That is quite interesting. I had no idea. To be honest, aside from the auto hold I use at the In n Out drive thru, I would rather get rid of the Electronic parking brake. But I don’t ever see myself figuring out a way to elegantly install a hand brake. Single pot it is.

• Thank you. Finally a straight answer, I’ll amazon some right away. (https://amzn.to/3yTAIId) 2L should suffice, I think the procedure only requires 1L but if I spill... But yeah, I also assumed the same about 5.1 but a few of my colleagues swear by it. DOT 4 is the middle ground in my opinion of the water accumulation v. boiling. ALSO I do not know if 5.1 is good for the Electronic parking brake. I know DOT 3 would make it bind somewhat due to the viscosity.