[chris010572]

NOTE: If This Post Is Not Where It Needs To Be, I Apologize In Advance & Will Remove Or Move It To The Correct Place. Thanks

RE: 2014 BMW 535i M Sport (LCI F10) - n55 engine w/ high mileage (290k)

Quick Summary of issue(s): Car has been running fine then 3 months ago It alerted me w/ the (Drivetrain Malfunction) message in which I had to slowly pull the car over to the side of the road then the engine shut down own it's own. I waited about 3 minutes, then it crunk up and ran fine.

During the next 2 months, during normal driving conditions, the car has done the same thing 2 more times. I required a town to the mechanic shop. (Local average mechanic shop - simple BMW repairs & such). The next day, I was told it needed a Valvetronic eccentric shaft motor. I order the part and 4 days later take it to the mechanic. I get a call today that it will require more work than just this valvetronic eccentric shaft motor replacement. Then I was informed they could not perform that type of job and was told to come get my car. I gambled that it would crank so I could drive it home and rethink things. It crunk fine and ran fine for about 5 miles then I get the drivetrain message. Pull car over to curb. Wait 5 minutes, car cranks, I drive another 3 miles home and park it.

So that is where I am. "IF" the mechanic is correct, then upon my research this "other" part of the job will require alot more work at an extreme cost. But, is this really the problem? I do not have a lot of faith in the mechanic as far as "foreign" automobiles. With that said, I need more input & advice.

I have a code reader and this is what it has given me: (Note: also see pics attached) Also remember the drivetrain message we are already getting.

*930BB9 - Fault Memory Locked, 0, ZP BMW SRS ACSM Crash Safety Module
*133E10 - DME/DDE Digital Motor Electronics/Digital Diesel Electronic (1of3)
*20A909 - DME/DDE Digital Motor Electronics/Digital Diesel Electronic (2of3)
*420641 - EGS Transmission Control - The DTC Definition is not Available

* Emissions Related Engine DTC's:
No Powertrain DTC's or Freeze Frame Data is Presently Stored in Vehicle CPU
Green: MIS / FUE / CCM
RED: CAT / EVA / 02S / HTR / EGR

Final Notes: I know the car has high mileage, but I am still interested in "possibly" getting it going again, unless this takes a turn for the worse as far as high repair costs.

Your advice, suggestions, tips, notes, instructions, etc. is VERY valuable to me. If I need to take more pics, videos, etc. and/or test other things for you to get more info that can help determine what this car will need to be drivable again, then just let me know and I will do my best to get that info for you.

I live in the southern area of Georgia (USA). So if anyone is near the area or can make a recommendation to someone/mechanic in the area, then I would like to hear from you.

P.S. I have a video posted on YouTube that will show the car running and the smoke coming from the front of car and the idle going down to 500rpm and idling rough, etc. Hope fully this will help you see more of what I am describing among some of the issues with this car.

YouTube link:

Thanks everyone.

[zrile]

I would replace crankshaft position sensor first, before putting loads of money on the car. Try driving at the same speed for few minutes, if the car stalls again, it is definitely crankshaft sensor. I had 3 times same problem on 3 different cars, folloeed with plenty of other errors, such as valvetronic, vanos error, camshaft solenoid sensors,etc....diagnostics never showed me crankshaft sensor error.

[chris010572]

zrile,

Thanks for your response. I spoke with a guy earlier today that gave me the exact same advice. Gonna order the part tonight and get that done asap. I appreciate your reply. Take care!

[StradaRedlands]

I'm impressed that the mechanic acknowledged it was beyond their ability, that's cool.
If the crankshaft sensor doesn't do it, then the Valvetronic motor is a known wear item. Hopefully just the motor and not the shaft as well. I just had my motor done last month, and it was a $2,500 job. If you do it, get the valve cover replaced at the same time.