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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Standard speakers upgraded to OEM Top Hifi (retrofit) |
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06-02-2013, 11:44 AM | #23 | |
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06-16-2013, 06:36 AM | #25 |
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Could you recommend some Focal speakers for the F10? I'm not sure exactly which speakers would be compatible with the car.
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06-16-2013, 07:13 PM | #26 | |
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All tweeters should have xover inline but not the mids, this is because the logic7 amp only send mid & Hi frequencies on the corresponding channels. |
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06-18-2013, 10:17 AM | #27 |
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Hi, the front tweeters didn't have xover's actually the mids had it on the back, i simply connected the cable coming from the sub to the mid, and connected the tweeter to the mid too. was really simple. now i just want to confirm the back mids can take 2 plugs exactly as the front ones.
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07-03-2013, 06:47 PM | #28 | |
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07-16-2013, 08:55 PM | #30 |
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08-01-2013, 03:54 PM | #31 |
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And if i install the speakers and the amp of the top hifi system? Is just plug and play?
Can anyone tell me if i need to code something or do something after installing? |
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08-02-2013, 01:23 PM | #32 |
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I have completed the install, and can confirm that the Subs ARE NOT plug and play.
I got some second hand subs from ebay.de and they came with the connector and partial wiring. The connecter on the car is slightly different and wont plug in and as said before you need to bridge the smaller wires with the bigger wires, I got a loom made up from my local auto electrician to connect the ebay plug with my oem plug and not have to cut any wires No coding is required just plug in and away you go. TIP... if you change the subs, remove the under seat air pipe as it makes fitting the slightly bigger sub easier... |
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08-17-2013, 05:44 AM | #35 |
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OP's system is the Stereo, where the iDrive powers the 6 speakers (front, rear and underseat) directly with just 25W per 4 channels; no tweeters and no external OEM amp.
The Stereo underseat woofers are connected in parallel to the door mids, thus the 4 wires at the woofers. All mid and underseat speakers are 4 ohms in the Stereo system, but because the front and the underseat woofers are connected in parallel the iDrive front load is 2ohms. The iDrive is stable at 2 ohms. Why all this explanation? When you replace the OEM speakers in the Stereo system you are actually changing as well the load to the iDrive unit. Because the front and woofers are connected in parallel then things could get messy if the load drops below 2 ohms -as in replacing the mid and underseat woofers with Top HiFi (677) speakers for example. Top HiFi mid + tweeters speakers become 2ohms when connected together and the woofers are 4 ohms by themselves. When connected in parallel (not designed to be connected in parallel in the 677 or 676 systems) they will create a load to the iDrive of 1.33ohm. The iDrive unit is not stable at 1.33ohm. So before any speakers are replaced in the Stereo system you should take a look to what you are actually doing to the iDrive unit. The system will sound great at the beginning just because the lower the load the higher the power output. But that higher output comes with more heat inside the iDrive unit. More heat that was not intended by design to be there. Your iDrive unit will overheat sooner or later, and then it will just fail. Take care... Last edited by Technic; 10-01-2013 at 04:29 AM.. Reason: Resistance in parallel correction |
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08-24-2013, 02:09 PM | #36 |
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I replaced HIFI OEM amp with JBL ms8 with Technic's harness, set it up using Technic's guide. I have calibrated only driver seat and on second attempt all seats. But both times after done calibrating, most sound comes from left driver side, passenger side and rear has low sound coming. Everything is connected correctly. There is little sound from center or right side. It is like listening to left channel only. Any thought?
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08-24-2013, 08:44 PM | #37 | |
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08-30-2013, 09:46 AM | #38 |
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i can't believe so much money was spent on an OEM "upgrade" that most people can't wait to upgrade from because it sounds terrible. you ended up having to cut and drill anyway. should have went aftermarket with actual quality.
also, Technic is correct about the different loads being presented. i'm surprised your unit even lasted this long. I don't advise anyone to go this route. There are MANY different options available for those that want a stock appearance.
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09-27-2013, 01:52 AM | #40 |
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The power of 676-amp is barely ok für the 677 speakers. There is only one significant difference: The 676-subs have 2 Ohms , the 677-subs have 8 Ohms, so you must turn on bass-control to max when you driving 677-subs with 676-amp
Of course, after retrofit to 677-amp you can play higher volume and more powerfull bass. I retrofitted my F11 from 676 to 677. |
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09-27-2013, 04:28 AM | #41 |
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09-28-2013, 03:56 AM | #42 |
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thanks,
I just decided to replace front door mids from hi fi to top hi fi mids as I feel these are the biggest downfall of the system. I'm sure the bass with top hi fi subs and top hi fi amp rock but I'm content with the bass for now. I'll try this configuration first and see. I may be back here asking sausewind how he upgraded his system from the hi fi to top hi fi in the end. thanks... |
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09-28-2013, 09:28 AM | #43 | |
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What the Top HiFi will give you is a more defined and accurate bass and mostly because of the different driver, but not necessarily a much louder or deeper bass than the HiFi. You will get a much better result with replacing the front HiFi components with Top HiFi as both are 2ohms, but the Top HiFi components are more sensitive and accurate. So the 25W to those components are going to be more efficient. By the way -going from HiFi to Top HiFi requires rewiring (including new fiber optic cables and connectors) and coding. Unless you get the parts extremely cheap and you do the job yourself then the upgrade will not make any economic sense as it will not sound as good for the cost as a well-thought aftermarket system. |
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09-28-2013, 04:55 PM | #44 | |
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