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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 2016 535 wanders on highway - still a problem |
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04-24-2024, 02:47 PM | #45 |
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Long shot- have your alignments been done at the same place each time? I wonder if their equipment might be out of calibration or doing something wrong. If it is your alignment I would assume it's toe'd out to feel twitchy.
For whatever it's worth, here is my alignment from a month or so ago: (Not sure why the print out it say's it is lowered, it's not) |
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04-24-2024, 03:27 PM | #46 | |
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04-24-2024, 05:12 PM | #47 |
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Stays alignment in spec when you have it checked after driving for a bit?
I'd stop throwing new parts towards that car until a decent diagnosis on what is wrong has been done. Ask them to measure if the distance between the front and rear wheel is the same left and right, also if the front and rear axle are in center of each other. Every decent Hunter alignment system can pull up this information, however it's not in the standard procedure. |
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04-24-2024, 07:10 PM | #48 | |
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04-25-2024, 06:13 AM | #49 | |
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I will try to ask them to dig a little deeper on the alignment, I get the feeling ill have to go to a dealer further away, this dealer is giving me answers like "you can keep bringing it back but its unlikely that we will find anything" So I don't imagine they will actually do what I ask but I will give them one more shot. With a tape measure it does appear that the front to rear hub is the same on both sides but thats as in depth as I can answer myself. Is this really a possible fix/problem? I do feel like i've heard of this once before but not sure where or in what context. Is that just raising the car and rotating the spring on the strut a certain amount?
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04-25-2024, 11:07 AM | #50 |
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I got to thinking about ride height and the way my previous f10s were both m sport suspensions. I took sand bags and added about 400lbs to the car evenly distributed and made my hour interstate drive. Surprisingly the car drives a lot better. A few things come to mind. Does the car riding half an inch lower help? Or maybe the alignment changes a little for the better as the suspension geometry lowers? It doesn’t fix it but it drives at least 50% better.
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05-02-2024, 10:44 AM | #51 |
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Local Indy says worn shocks can cause this as well, at 94k miles a new set couldnt hurt. At this point what else could it be LOL. Will be installing a new set of Bilstein B8 shocks along with new strut mounts and a set of H&R OE sport springs to lower it down 1" and stiffen it up a little to get back to the S0704 suspension I wish the car came with. Will update this thread in a few weeks and hopefully be done!
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05-02-2024, 01:07 PM | #53 |
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According to Bilstein B6 should be same damper as B8. B8 has a shorter shaft for lowering springs.
https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/bl...nd-bilstein-b8 |
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05-02-2024, 01:07 PM | #54 |
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Thanks for the heads up! Honestly I've always preferred a pretty stiff suspension. Our roads are in kept in pretty good shape so its usually smooth sailing anyways.
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05-07-2024, 10:31 AM | #55 |
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Have a 2013 535i m-sport which has also recently started to develop these symptoms. Definitely not normal for this car so following this thread closely. Can you confirm the rear diff bushings and rear lower control arms are still original?
*symptom similar to driving over a bridge with steel grate decking*. I also noticed an improvement with weight added to the back and does improve with driving time but does not go away completely. I was going to have another look at the differential bushings and rear control ams. I also have gotten an alignment done. Last edited by laundrytubman; 05-07-2024 at 11:12 AM.. Reason: Adding details |
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05-08-2024, 07:30 AM | #56 | |
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05-08-2024, 08:25 AM | #57 |
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No, tires have been the same. I am leaning towards struts, or something in the rear end but poking about i am unable to find anything presenting as moving or loose.
I should add, i did replace the front thrust arms and rear track arms to try and pin down but i feel like i would be doing the same problem chasing you have been doing, so will wait for any further findings on your side. |
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05-08-2024, 09:24 AM | #58 | |
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05-21-2024, 11:03 PM | #59 |
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Just going to throw this out there: I had multiple alignments with my F30, at two different alignment shops. It wasn't until I took it to the dealership that I got it properly aligned and it drove right.
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06-04-2024, 12:43 PM | #61 |
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I've put about 750 miles on it since I installed the b8s, strut mounts, and h&r springs. WOW what a difference. It no longer floats around like a boat, It also no longer wants to push through the outside of a turn, it handles the twisty roads a million times better than before. This was the best money I have spent on this car so far. It still feels a little reactive/twitchy on the interstate, the least little steering input make is go that way. I have not had the alignment done yet, It was supposed to be done yesterday but the dealership called and said they hadnt been able to get to it due to being short staffed ::eyeroll::. I am going to go back on 6-10 and try again. I am also giving them custom alignment specs, basically I am going to go .15 degrees toe in per wheel on the front (spec is -.02-+.18), I will do .20 degrees per wheel toe in on the rear (spec is -.05-+.25) and I will do -2.0 degrees camber on the rear. I am hoping that this will resolve the "twitchyness". I will update again after the alignment. I should also have pretty close to 1000 miles of settling on all the new components by then.
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06-05-2024, 05:45 AM | #62 |
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On my last alignment I gave some custom targets to my shop. I'm running KWv3s with ride height ~20mm lower than factory (not much of a drop really).
Front toe -.03" each side. The tech originally set less than that but the test drive showed it to follow every rut in the road too much. Rear toe -0.08" each side. Front camber is non-adjustable and reads -.86* due to the lowered ride height. Rear camber adjusts related to the toe and came out -1.9*. |
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