[ps2cho]

Just documenting a few variations from the FCP Euro video. I won't redo the steps they mention since its easier to watch.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-...d-transmission

I used a QUICKJACK to do the job and it made it far easier.

1) Do NOT drain the oil until you've verified you have loosened the fill port. On my 2016, it was both closer to the tunnel and blocked by an exhaust hanger which is not shown on the FCP Euro video. Had I got overexcited and just drained the the oil, I would not have realized a potential issue.

2) You will need to remove the exhaust shield, then the exhaust hanger's shown here. You can use an 8mm wrench on the E-Torx since there isnt enough space to get a socket in. Just go steady. 10mm wrench on the exhaust hangers (do this when the exhaust is cold).

3) When thats off, you can finally get access to the fill port. I did NOT buy the factory tool, I used a stubby allen wrench (Bondhaus on amazon) -- worked great. Just needed to attach an 8mm socket to get enough leverage to crack it loose.

4) The ZF Pan came with (3) pan magnets, but there was a 4th spot empty, I cleaned up one of the magnets from the factory pan and dropped it in that slot. Can't hurt I figure?

I used a pressure filler, with the exhaust close, it saved getting burned.

---
General steps:
Fill procedure, I did not follow FCP Euro structure and loaded up ISTA which had a slightly different process, close but not quite the same. I'll trust ISTA.
- Engine OFF, fill through fill port until it drips out.
- Leave fill port open for now
- Start Engine
- Go immediately under and fill again until it drips out.
- Close fill port by hand.
- Shift through Reverse, Drive, Manual 1-8 holding each for 10-seconds (the gears 4-8 kept changing back to 1 for whatever reason so I just kept manually going through it 10-15x to cover myself)
- Rev the engine in PARK to 2,000 rpm for 30-seconds to completely ensure torque converter is filled.
- Back to Park, Parking Brake ON. Engine left On.
- Verify fluid temperature of ~40C.
- Remove fill port, check if its dripping, add more until drips, leave fill port off until the drips slow down to a slow trickle.
- Replace fill port, tighten.
- Now turn engine OFF. You're done.

I used a touch over 4L, I think 5L would do the job, but 6L should be the minimum to be safe in case you had a spill.

[ctcarbonari]

Nice write up!

FWIW, ~4.5 liters is what I've exchanged both times I've had this procedure done.

[Unspec]

LOL at the extra jack stand under the quick jack. Didn't QUITE trust it, eh?

[ps2cho]

Originally Posted by Unspec

LOL at the extra jack stand under the quick jack. Didn't QUITE trust it, eh?

I dont think theres anything funny about additional safety under the car, especially with the fact I have to start it and run the car? I think my life is worth the 30 seconds of additional backup.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by ps2cho

I dont think theres anything funny about additional safety under the car, especially with the fact I have to start it and run the car? I think my life is worth the 30 seconds of additional backup.

lol I'm not making fun of you, relax

[Encendido3]

Good job! I can’t wait to get my quickjack. I’m due for this service again soon

[ps2cho]

Originally Posted by Unspec

lol I'm not making fun of you, relax

Theres plenty of immature people who truly think it IS funny and "it would NEVER happen..."

I'll admit when I was younger I was more willing to do dumb stuff, but as I have got older, theres more to lose now and the extra 60 seconds for redundancy seems insane NOT to do

FWIW: I did notice the first few hundred miles I did have some odd 1-2 irregular shifts, almost as if it was slamming into gear a bit more, but it seems to have stopped now. Wonder if after the fluid change its cleaned out some other areas and took a little to work it all out. who knows...I have read you're NOT supposed to re-adapt the transmission. I honestly think that a first fluid change at 30k would be better, not because the fluid was necessarily dirty, but the filter and magnets were clearly full at 60k and needed to be cleaned. There was not as much surface area anymore for them to capture and hold the wear.

[ChiltiCoatl89]

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Theres plenty of immature people who truly think it IS funny and "it would NEVER happen..."

I'll admit when I was younger I was more willing to do dumb stuff, but as I have got older, theres more to lose now and the extra 60 seconds for redundancy seems insane NOT to do

FWIW: I did notice the first few hundred miles I did have some odd 1-2 irregular shifts, almost as if it was slamming into gear a bit more, but it seems to have stopped now. Wonder if after the fluid change its cleaned out some other areas and took a little to work it all out. who knows...I have read you're NOT supposed to re-adapt the transmission. I honestly think that a first fluid change at 30k would be better, not because the fluid was necessarily dirty, but the filter and magnets were clearly full at 60k and needed to be cleaned. There was not as much surface area anymore for them to capture and hold the wear.

You 5er is a RWD correct? just to clarify, as is mine All your had to remove is mentioned above?

[ps2cho]

Originally Posted by ChiltiCoatl89

You 5er is a RWD correct? just to clarify, as is mine All your had to remove is mentioned above?

correct