[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

I called my coder and Im'd the guy you told me to talk to and nothing from them. I'm trying to locate the charging circuit wiring diagram to come up with a plan or if it will even be possible. Do you know where I could get wiring diagrams? I've been searching the interweb with no luck.

Teddy there's a guy who's very active on Instagram. His name is (air_f10) he actually has an account on here as well but don't think he's very active. Anyway, I direct messaged him not long ago and asked if he had battery drain messages when he installed his system. He said yes and said that installing aftermarket batteries was the key to fixing it. He installed two batteries next to the stock one. Didn't get into much more detail but maybe you can message him on IG and see what his solution was.

[UA_civ_eng]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

I called my coder and Im'd the guy you told me to talk to and nothing from them. I'm trying to locate the charging circuit wiring diagram to come up with a plan or if it will even be possible. Do you know where I could get wiring diagrams? I've been searching the interweb with no luck.

I wish I did

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

Teddy there's a guy who's very active on Instagram. His name is (air_f10) he actually has an account on here as well but don't think he's very active. Anyway, I direct messaged him not long ago and asked if he had battery drain messages when he installed his system. He said yes and said that installing aftermarket batteries was the key to fixing it. He installed two batteries next to the stock one. Didn't get into much more detail but maybe you can message him on IG and see what his solution was.

i think he was going with 2 batteries anyways because of the air suspension he had

[UA_civ_eng]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

Teddy there's a guy who's very active on Instagram. His name is (air_f10) he actually has an account on here as well but don't think he's very active. Anyway, I direct messaged him not long ago and asked if he had battery drain messages when he installed his system. He said yes and said that installing aftermarket batteries was the key to fixing it. He installed two batteries next to the stock one. Didn't get into much more detail but maybe you can message him on IG and see what his solution was.

Teddy has added one large battery next to the factory one. With the car still doing the Efficient Dynamics charging method though, the additional batteries just prolong (but not that much) the time until the low battery messages.

Teddy: I think your best bet for quick responses would be to post a new thread on the topic in the F30 forum. That forum gets a LOT more attention and the F30 is basically identical to the F10 for this subject. I'm honestly surprised Shawn hasn't responded to you yet.

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by UA_civ_eng

Teddy has added one large battery next to the factory one. With the car still doing the Efficient Dynamics charging method though, the additional batteries just prolong (but not that much) the time until the low battery messages.

Teddy: I think your best bet for quick responses would be to post a new thread on the topic in the F30 forum. That forum gets a LOT more attention and the F30 is basically identical to the F10 for this subject. I'm honestly surprised Shawn hasn't responded to you yet.

+1

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by UA_civ_eng

Teddy has added one large battery next to the factory one. With the car still doing the Efficient Dynamics charging method though, the additional batteries just prolong (but not that much) the time until the low battery messages.

Teddy: I think your best bet for quick responses would be to post a new thread on the topic in the F30 forum. That forum gets a LOT more attention and the F30 is basically identical to the F10 for this subject. I'm honestly surprised Shawn hasn't responded to you yet.

I'll do that, opps my bad Shawn did get back to me and he said he didn't know how to change the charging program. A good friend of mine is a Plc programmer and electrical engineer, if and when I get the schematic for the charging system I'll have him look at it and see what he thinks can be Done to bypass it. My under standing on how the charging system is manipulated by the cars onboard computers is as follows, the computer sees the braking, coasting or supposedly low battery and it tells the alt to come on and start making energy and start charging. Our alternators have to be told to come on and start making energy unlike most other cars alts that are making energy all the time and are only regulated down when the battery is fully charged or the system doesn't demand more juice. My theory to bypass the efficent dynamics is there's a wire coming from the computer that supply's the alt with a 12volt signal telling it to start making energy when needed and if I can disconnect this wire coming from the cars computer going to the alt and supply the alt with a separate constant 12 volt signal the alt will think it's being told to make energy and in theory will charge all the time. I won't be able to confirm any of this till I get the wiring diagrams and please excuse my crude explanation of my bypass theory it sounds like the cliche bomb disarming "cut the red wire" they use in movies but hey it might be that simple

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

Teddy there's a guy who's very active on Instagram. His name is (air_f10) he actually has an account on here as well but don't think he's very active. Anyway, I direct messaged him not long ago and asked if he had battery drain messages when he installed his system. He said yes and said that installing aftermarket batteries was the key to fixing it. He installed two batteries next to the stock one. Didn't get into much more detail but maybe you can message him on IG and see what his solution was.

I personally don't think there is anything wrong with the stock battery, it's definatly big enough concerning amps and capacity. It's almost 3 times bigger than the xs power battery I added for the bass amp, it's bigger than most other AGM batteries you would typically use in any other car like a Honda or full size Chevy truck. It has plenty of capacity and amps , the issue is the worthless effeicient dynamics! Bmw won't reprogramm our cars to charge all the time because it will change the epa fuel economy rating and they would have to re-rate all the cars that got reprogrammed and it wouldn't get the same fuel economy and they would get sued, so they won't admit a problem or do anything about it.

[lsturbointeg]

Got my subs in and I'll wait for them to break in But i got them wired up just like the above diagram. but I was trying to setup my tuning but imma be a newbie at this again but what would I set my crossover on my head unit? I use to have them set at 80hz and my high pass filter at 80hz. Any suggestions if I should said the low pass to 100hz or even 125hz? I can hear the subs cutoff on certain songs that I think is going to the mids but I'm not sure if it's because the subs are still new? I did put 16 ounces(1lb) of polyfill in each chamber. Any suggestions or am I good for now?

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Got my subs in and I'll wait for them to break in But i got them wired up just like the above diagram. but I was trying to setup my tuning but imma be a newbie at this again but what would I set my crossover on my head unit? I use to have them set at 80hz and my high pass filter at 80hz. Any suggestions if I should said the low pass to 100hz or even 125hz? I can hear the subs cutoff on certain songs that I think is going to the mids but I'm not sure if it's because the subs are still new? I did put 16 ounces(1lb) of polyfill in each chamber. Any suggestions or am I good for now?

I'm not sure as I've never done that myself but I think I recall teddy saying he had his crossed over at 200hz

[UA_civ_eng]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

I personally don't think there is anything wrong with the stock battery, it's definatly big enough concerning amps and capacity. It's almost 3 times bigger than the xs power battery I added for the bass amp, it's bigger than most other AGM batteries you would typically use in any other car like a Honda or full size Chevy truck. It has plenty of capacity and amps , the issue is the worthless effeicient dynamics! Bmw won't reprogramm our cars to charge all the time because it will change the epa fuel economy rating and they would have to re-rate all the cars that got reprogrammed and it wouldn't get the same fuel economy and they would get sued, so they won't admit a problem or do anything about it.

Teddy, I've got some good information for you on the battery charging system in our vehicles. Basically, it is complicated as hell, but perhaps it is changeable. I still have a lot of research to do in ISTA, but I can at least show what I have found so far. If somebody can tell me how to upload documents on here, I have several.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by UA_civ_eng

Teddy, I've got some good information for you on the battery charging system in our vehicles. Basically, it is complicated as hell, but perhaps it is changeable. I still have a lot of research to do in ISTA, but I can at least show what I have found so far. If somebody can tell me how to upload documents on here, I have several.

Thats good you found something, I found nothing and my post in the f30 forums Came up with nothing, it seems nobody knows anything about how to change programming or how to physically bypass the effient dynamics. I'm not sure how to upload a doc but you could try to convert it to a Pdf, I've seen people post them before. I havnt had anymore battery drain problems since I charged my batts to 100% and also the week I did have an issue I didn't drive the car very much that week and it was super cold out and batteries don't like to charge in the cold very well. I went on a 300 mile road trip this past weekend and we played the stereo a lot and watched 3 movies, we had the heated seats on, cruise controll on, high beams on, heater on and the fogs on. I loaded the electrical up as much as I could to see what would happen and when we arrived to and from our destination I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.7volts with the car off in sleep mode, so the alt kept things going and charged the batts which was good, but still not what I get around town or on quick trips to dinner or something like that. If you can't figure out how to post the docs I'll give you my email and maybe you can send them to me that way. I'm very interested in what you found and it may be what I need to atleast bypass the effeicient dynamics.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Got my subs in and I'll wait for them to break in But i got them wired up just like the above diagram. but I was trying to setup my tuning but imma be a newbie at this again but what would I set my crossover on my head unit? I use to have them set at 80hz and my high pass filter at 80hz. Any suggestions if I should said the low pass to 100hz or even 125hz? I can hear the subs cutoff on certain songs that I think is going to the mids but I'm not sure if it's because the subs are still new? I did put 16 ounces(1lb) of polyfill in each chamber. Any suggestions or am I good for now?

Your woofers need time to break in, till then just set the crossover how it sounds good to you, if it doesn't sound good be patient and play those subs everyday at nice a loud volume with music with good bass. My JL 15's had no lows at first and after 2 nights of pounding on them for an hour or 2 they started to get louder and lower. It's wierd you'll notice them playing lower deep bass like as if they got comfortable and decided to relax, even my 12's were not fully broken in but after pounding on them for the first coupe nights they sounded better and are now playing super deep and low. After your subs are broken in try setting the crossover again to blend with the front stage.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by TJBentley

I'm not sure as I've never done that myself but I think I recall teddy saying he had his crossed over at 200hz

My box is different so 200hz may not sound that good for a standard ported or sealed box. I tried setting the crossover at 80hz and 125hz but it didn't hit as hard so I set it back to 200hz. I wish you guys could hear my box the bass is super deep and tight, it is super powerful at normal volume but doesn't over power the stock mids and highs. BUT with a twist on the volume and my bass knob it's good by highs or hearing anything else other than retarded bass, it is very much like an spl setup like Nelson mentioned but it's not what I'm using it for. The bass is just amazing and clean, I've never heard a sealed or ported box come close to this before. I'll never use anything other than a 4th order again, it's what Bose has been using for its subs for the last 20-30 years.

[lsturbointeg]

cool...i'll let them break in and by the end of the week i'll mess around with the settings.

[UA_civ_eng]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

Thats good you found something, I found nothing and my post in the f30 forums Came up with nothing, it seems nobody knows anything about how to change programming or how to physically bypass the effient dynamics. I'm not sure how to upload a doc but you could try to convert it to a Pdf, I've seen people post them before. I havnt had anymore battery drain problems since I charged my batts to 100% and also the week I did have an issue I didn't drive the car very much that week and it was super cold out and batteries don't like to charge in the cold very well. I went on a 300 mile road trip this past weekend and we played the stereo a lot and watched 3 movies, we had the heated seats on, cruise controll on, high beams on, heater on and the fogs on. I loaded the electrical up as much as I could to see what would happen and when we arrived to and from our destination I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.7volts with the car off in sleep mode, so the alt kept things going and charged the batts which was good, but still not what I get around town or on quick trips to dinner or something like that. If you can't figure out how to post the docs I'll give you my email and maybe you can send them to me that way. I'm very interested in what you found and it may be what I need to atleast bypass the effeicient dynamics.

Okay man. Go ahead and send me your email just in case. I will try and upload or send them today or tomorrow. What I can tell you right now is that the DME is involved so programming will have to be done inside it most likely, but I'm thinking that it might actually be possible since it is messing with the engine operation parameters. BTW, ISTA is friggin awesome and I recommend everybody that want to work on their car themselves get it!

[UA_civ_eng]

I started a new thread for this topic, to hopefully get more views and input on it. Attachments are there!

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

Your woofers need time to break in, till then just set the crossover how it sounds good to you, if it doesn't sound good be patient and play those subs everyday at nice a loud volume with music with good bass. My JL 15's had no lows at first and after 2 nights of pounding on them for an hour or 2 they started to get louder and lower. It's wierd you'll notice them playing lower deep bass like as if they got comfortable and decided to relax, even my 12's were not fully broken in but after pounding on them for the first coupe nights they sounded better and are now playing super deep and low. After your subs are broken in try setting the crossover again to blend with the front stage.

Teddy, just got off the phone with Kicker tech support. The Kicker CompR's have an impedance switch that you can select 8ohm or 2 ohm. He said to get a 4 ohm load set the switch to 8 ohms. Take both (+) and (T) back to (+) of amp. Than both (-) and (T) back to (-) amp and that will be a 4 ohm load. Is that right? Amp is bridged to see 4 ohm load. The diagram is completely different than what he said? I think what's confusing is the subs are DVC 4 ohms but really each coil is 8 ohms but when the switch is selected to 8 ohm is makes it a 4 ohm sub?

I think what I'm trying to understand is series or parallel back to the amp...what's the difference?

[TJBentley]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Teddy, just got off the phone with Kicker tech support. The Kicker CompR's have an impedance switch that you can select 8ohm or 2 ohm. He said to get a 4 ohm load set the switch to 8 ohms. Take both (+) and (T) back to (+) of amp. Than both (-) and (T) back to (-) amp and that will be a 4 ohm load. Is that right? Amp is bridged to see 4 ohm load. The diagram is completely different than what he said? Any help here

http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com...woofer-wiring/

[lsturbointeg]

Guys, is this series or parallel? Here's what Kicker emailed me:

Gene, select 8 on the switches and wire the subs in parallel. If you have any further questions let me know. Have a great day.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Guys, is this series or parallel? Here's what Kicker emailed me:

Gene, select 8 on the switches and wire the subs in parallel. If you have any further questions let me know. Have a great day.

That diagram shows a series+parallel configuration, the coils on the subs are wired in series and then they wired in parallel to the amp. I think what's got you confused is the fact your subs seem to have a switch that already puts them into a series or parallel configuration without having to physically wire them, so there's no need to wire them like in the drawing you provided. Just flip the switch to 8ohms and then wire both subs to the amp in parallel to get a 4ohm load.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

That diagram shows a series+parallel configuration, the coils on the subs are wired in series and then they wired in parallel to the amp. I think what's got you confused is the fact your subs seem to have a switch that already puts them into a series or parallel configuration without having to physically wire them, so there's no need to wire them like in the drawing you provided. Just flip the switch to 8ohms and then wire both subs to the amp in parallel to get a 4ohm load.

OK cool! I'm going to play dumb right now cause I've been out of the Audio for awhile...do u have a diagram for the parallel setup lol! there's only 1 set of terminals on the sub so I'll set it to 8 ohms but how do I wire both subs back to the amp bridge mode

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Teddylongtooth

That diagram shows a series+parallel configuration, the coils on the subs are wired in series and then they wired in parallel to the amp. I think what's got you confused is the fact your subs seem to have a switch that already puts them into a series or parallel configuration without having to physically wire them, so there's no need to wire them like in the drawing you provided. Just flip the switch to 8ohms and then wire both subs to the amp in parallel to get a 4ohm load.

OK cool! I'm going to play dumb right now cause I've been out of the Audio for awhile...do u have a diagram for the parallel setup lol!

Also, just to confirm the 1 lb polyfill on each side the sub sits in it like a bird nest...should I have some air space between the sub and polyfill? I know when I ram my Jl's my box was deeper so 1 lb just filled it half way. In my Nissan box it's pretty shallow. Like I posted there's about 1.25" of space between the sub and the bottom of the box so I'm wondering if I have too much polyfill?