[Unspec]

Nickco, how did you get the original mickey mouse flange out? I couldn't get it out for the life of me to do the metal flange upgrade.

[Dan944]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

It is dry to the touch is about 10-15 minutes. If I were to do it again I would have used the smallest amount to help keep the grain of the leather. I mean you need like a few drops of the dye on the included brush.

Today I replaced my interior door handle trim with the new eBay unit and it looks amazing. The eBay trunk shocks are junk and I am going to get OEM ones eventually.



I still need to fix my dash cam install and my rear sun shade.

Your build is coming out very nice. I need to do the dye on the driver door. My center is fine. I also have to change new door trims in black this time (the part that gets a gooey feeling). I just hope I don't break anything when taking apart the door panel. The part with the handle seems like it will be a pain.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Nickco, how did you get the original mickey mouse flange out? I couldn't get it out for the life of me to do the metal flange upgrade.

I took a pair of vice grips and broke it. Then it pulled right out. Make sure the plastic bits do not go into the coolant hose.

Originally Posted by Dan944

Your build is coming out very nice. I need to do the dye on the driver door. My center is fine. I also have to change new door trims in black this time (the part that gets a gooey feeling). I just hope I don't break anything when taking apart the door panel. The part with the handle seems like it will be a pain.

I took my time with the door panel, this car is built too well. I just kept pulling on the one corner and I didn't break any tabs.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

I took a pair of vice grips and broke it. Then it pulled right out. Make sure the plastic bits do not go into the coolant hose.



I took my time with the door panel, this car is built too well. I just kept pulling on the one corner and I didn't break any tabs.

Did you squeeze on the metal band area, or on the O-ring part?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Did you squeeze on the metal band area, or on the O-ring part?

I squeezed near the metal band.

[M_Bimmer]

Hey Nickco43,

When you get your rear sun shade installed, and run your white and green wires to your Junction Box (pin 3 and 30?) can you post what values you changed in the JBE VO?

I have swapped my Junction Box with an M5 version that had the rear sunshade, but my VO changes did nothing....and would love to get this activated.

Thanks!

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Hey Nickco43,

When you get your rear sun shade installed, and run your white and green wires to your Junction Box (pin 3 and 30?) can you post what values you changed in the JBE VO?

I have swapped my Junction Box with an M5 version that had the rear sunshade, but my VO changes did nothing....and would love to get this activated.

Thanks!

You should be able to just add the VO code for sun shade and then factory code it to the jbbf. My car has the power sun shade from factory but it gets stuck up. I have my rear parcel shelf apart currently and I lubed everything up but it still gets stuck. I tried everything and it still gets stuck. I took apart the motor assembly and it seems to me like the spring inside gets weak overtime and does not have enough strength to go back down anymore. Unless anyone has any ideas I think tomorrow I am just going to delete the power sun shade. I don't think it is worth the $800 for a new one. I might buy a E31 sun shade motor and see if it will bolt up.

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...or-51461388215

[Unspec]

Maybe try too get a motor from a salvage car? I believe 6 and 7 series shared a ton of parts with the 5, so there should be a good selection

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Maybe try too get a motor from a salvage car? I believe 6 and 7 series shared a ton of parts with the 5, so there should be a good selection

I could only find the entire assembly for about $200. I would rather have a brand new motor for that price. I went ahead and ordered the E31 motor. I don't feel like putting my interior back in so I will drive my e90 around for a bit while I wait on the part.

[Nickco43]

My bumper came today and confirmed it is the same bumper kies sells for almost double the price. The fitment is pretty good and I can not wait to get it painted. I found out that my inter cooler must have cancer as the fins are just falling off.

[Dan944]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

My bumper came today and confirmed it is the same bumper kies sells for almost double the price. The fitment is pretty good and I can not wait to get it painted. I found out that my inter cooler must have cancer as the fins are just falling off.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/d0c0kj5v/IMG-3706.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/gk5jdWRx/IMG-3715.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/VkC6kVBD/IMG-3716.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/L4xhCf8B/IMG-3723.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/kXDGk4Vr/IMG-3724.jpg[/img]

The fitment looks great. That's the mtech one right?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Dan944

The fitment looks great. That's the mtech one right?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PreLCI-F10-...53.m2749.l2649

[beegeezy]

The G-Plus intercooler (wagner knock off) is a cheap and popular option.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by beegeezy

The G-Plus intercooler (wagner knock off) is a cheap and popular option.

Someone I know recommended me this intercooler from this eBay seller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intercooler...53.m1438.l2649

I don't really care if the knock off flows worse than the real one or not as I am only going to go stage one. I might even just get a OE Nissans one from rock auto for $150.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Someone I know recommended me this intercooler from this eBay seller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intercooler...53.m1438.l2649

I don't really care if the knock off flows worse than the real one or not as I am only going to go stage one. I might even just get a OE Nissans one from rock auto for $150.

Yea that's the same as the g-plus, just without the g-plus branding. Probably from the same factory. Are you sure that's the intercooler losing the fins? IIRC, the intercooler doesn't directly face the exterior, I think that might be the radiator losing its brains.

Edit: That's the radiator (edit: jk it's the ac condenser), you can see the stock intercooler behind it in your picture. Stock intercooler has those thick ass bars between the plates.

Edit 2: The M sport retrofit they sell from ebay isn't quite complete. It's missing the foam absorber, p/n 51117903993. Base one is a bit thicker and might cause a large bumper-to-hood panel gap.

Edit: Probably the AC condenser based on what others have said.

[Trainwreck914]

Actually. I think that may be the AC condenser. I just replaced mine. It was the very front item behind the bumper.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Yea that's the same as the g-plus, just without the g-plus branding. Probably from the same factory. Are you sure that's the intercooler losing the fins? IIRC, the intercooler doesn't directly face the exterior, I think that might be the radiator losing its brains.

Edit: That's 100% the radiator, you can see the stock intercooler behind it in your picture. Stock intercooler has those thick ass bars between the plates.

Edit 2: The M sport retrofit they sell from ebay isn't quite complete. It's missing the foam absorber, p/n 5111790399. Base one is a bit thicker and might cause a large bumper-to-hood panel gap.

This bumper might have been shaped to go around the stock foam pad. I will see how much the dealer wants for the foam pad tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

Actually. I think that may be the AC condenser. I just replaced mine. It was the very front item behind the bumper.

My AC still blows 100% ice cold so I will hold off on replacing the condenser. I am going to be honest I am getting tired of dumping money into this thing. The check engine light came back on today. I still have the bad cat code and now I have a evap leak. With the body shop bill I am going to be past 13k into the car.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

This bumper might have been shaped to go around the stock foam pad. I will see how much the dealer wants for the foam pad tomorrow.



My AC still blows 100% ice cold so I will hold off on replacing the condenser. I am going to be honest I am getting tired of dumping money into this thing. The check engine light came back on today. I still have the bad cat code and now I have a evap leak. With the body shop bill I am going to be past 13k into the car.

The bumper is not, it uses the same mold as factory. It even comes with the little X marks (if you get one without PDC pre-drilled) for where to drill the PDC. It's 80 bucks off of FCPEuro but I know you're not too keen on them right now. You can also find it cheaper off of ebay, but shipping times will be pretty long.

[Dan944]

Originally Posted by Unspec

The bumper is not, it uses the same mold as factory. It even comes with the little X marks (if you get one without PDC pre-drilled) for where to drill the PDC. It's 80 bucks off of FCPEuro but I know you're not too keen on them right now. You can also find it cheaper off of ebay, but shipping times will be pretty long.

Are you talking about this one? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-m-51117903993

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Dan944

Are you talking about this one? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-m-51117903993

That is the part, yup

[Nickco43]

The bumper foam was $84 from the dealer shipped. The car is at the body shop and should be done Monday. I went ahead and bought a charge pipe and a MHD flasher thing from BMS. Apparently MHD has a better tune for my 11 N55 which is more like a E90 N55 then anything else.

[Trainwreck914]

If the ac is still working I wouldn't dump the money til it goes out. But the condenser are known to have a weak point.