[nassbmw]

Hi,

So yesterday I went to a car wash and drive my car home. Everything was working normally. The next day, I try to use my keyfob to unlock the car nothing. I then put my hand on the handle, car unlock just fine with comfort access... weird.

Model: bmw 535i 2016 (F10)
Symptoms: lock/unlock/trunk on the key fob nothing happens.
Comfort Access works normally.


Tried to update the key fob by holding start stop button and lock button at the same time and then putting my key next to the steering column. Update of the key was successful (show a update screen on the drive) however didn't solve the issue.

Tried with my second key still have the exact same problem which makes me think that the keyfob isn't the issue.

Also the driver side rear door handle won't lock when I press on the handle but unlock just fine. I may have a faulty door handle but I don't understand why the key fob would stop working...

Btw already replaced the key fob battery but still doesn't works...

Scanned the car here are the error codes I have got:
D90D1E: LIN bus error FBD receiver 1
9307A7: DAYS driver's door/rear side (FTH): short circuit DATA line to ground
9307B1: DAYS driver's door/rear side (FTH): Continous operation
9308B0: ID Transmiter (IDG): battery undervoltage --> I Replaced the key fob battery.
9307BA: One or more DAYS blocked due to game protection.
E1C448: MOST: actual configuration incomplete
800F92: Welcome light repeat lock active

Wiped the read driver side door handle.
Cleared all codes: one code came back

800F92: Welcome light repeat lock active


Anyone had a similar issue?
Any input will be appreciated.

[nassbmw]

Regarding the code that still come up:

800F92: Welcome light repeat lock active
Welcome light was deactivated because it was switched on too many times in succession.
Encodable in repetitive cycles from 0-15. As standard 3.
Caution: This function will be deactivated at an ambient temperature over 50 °C.
A terminal change must be made with the ignition key: Switch ignition off and on again.
The fault will be reset when terminal 15 is switched ON.

What does this means exactly? what is terminal 15????

[Qsilver7]

“Terminal” refers to the various power & ignition position situations when powering up the vehicle.

Back in the day when an actual key blade was inserted into the ignition…the “terminal” nomenclature corresponded with the ignition cylinder position and the various relays that activated and powered modules and other components around the vehicle.

Now, some of the terminal nomenclature like terminal 15 (wake up), terminal 30 (1st press of START button), terminal 50 (starter position) continue to refer to these various stages of powering up the car. Terminal 15 (the wake up call) refers to things that come on when the remote comes in contact with its aerials or the door handle is lifted and starts the components on the wake up communication bus. (Hope this is making sense).

EDIT: here’s some info from the TIS that discusses Terminal 15(N) and other terminal positions….perhaps it explains what I was trying to say above better.

[nassbmw]

Thank you Qsilver7 for the reply.

I did some testing and concluded my door handle is the source of the problem.

Oh and by the way my key fob started working again. So no more issue with the key fob.

I took my rear left handle (faulty one) out and connected my right rear handle in its place and everything started working again. (locking with comfort access worked)

I managed to detect that only the locking sequence (comfort access) on the faulty handle won't work. Unlocking with confort access works. I disconnected everything and disassembled the handle and cleaned the pins with air. Re-assembled everything and tried but still won't work.

Before replacing the handle anyone know which pins is responsible for locking or where I can find that information? The pins on the comfort access wiring on the handle are numbered from 1 to 4.

[CrippledLucifer]

Door handles appear to be a common problem on these cars. My drivers side one blew out a couple of months ago and I had to get that replaced with a new one from the dealership. As soon as I replaced it, the rear drivers side one started giving issues but I doubt I'll replace that since it's not as important. New handles are over $800 at the dealership here in Canada so they're not exactly cheap. Once it completely craps out, I'll just disconnect the comfort access wire and be done with it. Not like I need CA on that door.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by nassbmw

Before replacing the handle anyone know which pins is responsible for locking or where I can find that information? The pins on the comfort access wiring on the handle are numbered from 1 to 4.

From TIS..looks like PINs 1 & 2 carry data to the CAS module which is the module that controls central locking.

[nassbmw]

CrippledLucifer, I have to agree with you on that. Its my fifth BMW and 3 of the 5 I had, at one moment or a another had problem with comfort access.

I think this time I had this problem because I go to often to the carwash lol. I believe that water got inside the handle which caused the issue.

I'm kinda of surprised how one faulty door handle made the car have so much error code. I disconnected the comfort access plug on the handle and now I still only one error code saying the handle receive incorrect data which is totally normal since I disconnected the plug. "days driver door/rear side (FTH) Invalid current value on unlock line"

I'm also from Canada, ordered the handle on amazon for 50$.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Poign%C3%...37&sr=8-7&th=1

I will update here when I receive the part (in a month). I hope the feeling of the handle will be the same as OEM. If not I may have to buy a used one...

[nassbmw]

Qsilver7,

Thanks again for your help, will do some testing according to the diagram you sent.

I didn't know about TIS, crazy how the membership is expensive.
2500$ a year wow.

Looks like it's a must have with these cars....

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by nassbmw

Qsilver7,

Thanks again for your help, will do some testing according to the diagram you sent.

I didn't know about TIS, crazy how the membership is expensive.
2500$ a year wow.

NO problem…check your visitor messages.

[nassbmw]

Qsilver7 I received your message,
Here is my email: nass_ab@hotmail.fr

Seems like I can't use private message yet. (it seems like I have to wait 7 days)

Thanks for all your help. I truly appreciate it!

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by nassbmw

Qsilver7 I received your message,
Here is my email: nass_ab@hotmail.fr

Seems like I can't use private message yet. (it seems like I have to wait 7 days)

Thanks for all your help. I truly appreciate it!

You've got mail.

[nassbmw]

So little update about that amazon handle.

Fitment isn't perfect but everything works.

There is a small space between the handle and the door. Will try to order another one from ebay just to have a better fitment…

[kevinsstelly]

I have the same problem, the key fob did not work, and the reason was not completely closing the door! Repaired the door and earned a keychain)))And in parallel, I work in cosmetic surgery here at a plastic clinic!

[ChiNorm]

Originally Posted by nassbmw

So little update about that amazon handle.

Fitment isn't perfect but everything works.

There is a small space between the handle and the door. Will try to order another one from ebay just to have a better fitment…

Better to get OEM take offs on Ebay.

Good luck.

[Kermit12]

I have a genuine fob that only works held up to the steering column (I think it was left with a dead battery for many years)
Comforts access does not work, buttons do nothing (essentially dead) but it is the right one of the car and the physical key works in the door.
I have taken it to BMW who have said “it’s dead you will need a new one for $1,008.00 …

I had not heard of the process of

holding start stop button and lock button at the same time and then putting my key next to the steering column.

I have pulled the circuit board out and it looks perfect…

Any clues?

[Qsilver7]

The starting(immobilizing) feature of the remote is a different system than the central locking/unlocking feature of the remote. Don’t fall into the common misconception the remote is a one-trick-pony.

If the remote will start the vehicle…then there’s nothing wrong with that system. The starting/immobilizing feature of the remote fob communicates with the CAS, FEM or BDC, ring antenna/aerial (in the steering column), and the remote fob’s embedded transponder chip. It is self powered thru induction and does NOT require the battery inside the key. (See info below)

As you can see, you can hold the remote next to the steering column and the vehicle will start. That area of the steering column is where the ring antenna is…so even with a dead battery in the remote, when held next to the steering column, it gets powered thru inductive properties and the signals is sent to the DME & CAS modules to initiate starting.

If your CA door handles and remote’s lock/unlock buttons aren’t working…and you’ve replaced the battery inside the remote with a working cell battery, and the central locking still doesn’t work…then there’s probably a problem with the central locking system. You could have bad CA door handle, you may have defective CA antennas, or the remote may not be sending the RF (radio frequency) signal to the comfort access components.

CA antenna locations (they facilitate lock/unlock features of the remote fob with the car):