[Jattbmw]

After upgrading to wagner intercooler, huge power losses to below 200 in hp and torque. Didnt have this issue with stock intercooler on stage 1 bootmod3.

[ey2001]

Maybe you have a leak..... I have Wagner too with mhd and it is fine

[obiltagi3]

@Bullitts5

Thank you for the write up it helped a lot! I just installed my Gplus FMIC today. Man, what a tight fit, took me longer than expected and I’m typically good we these things.
For future buyers: The installation is very straight forward but BEWARE if you’re not use to working on your car I would recommend taking it to a shop. Not sure the cost at a shop but I don’t think I would want to install this same FMIC again. Haha.

[trialmountain]

Mine should be here in a couple weeks!

obiltagi3 Was there an "aha" moment when you found what was making it such a tight fit and moved it out of the way? The electric fan? The cooler hoses?

[jonobro]

Originally Posted by obiltagi3

@Bullitts5

Thank you for the write up it helped a lot! I just installed my Gplus FMIC today. Man, what a tight fit, took me longer than expected and I’m typically good we these things.
For future buyers: The installation is very straight forward but BEWARE if you’re not use to working on your car I would recommend taking it to a shop. Not sure the cost at a shop but I don’t think I would want to install this same FMIC again. Haha.

What was hard exactly ? I've done cp, dp and my m performance exhaust myself this shouldn't be any harder or should it ? Lol anything helps ! and did you go for a test drive how's the car feel ?

[obiltagi3]

No aha moment for me... just alot of persuasion. I also used ramps and the FMIC isnt super light so working underneath the car and holding it for long periods of time can be tiring.
I ended up using a jack to give support which helped a lot. The oil cooler line is no problem, i was able to keep it aside while i got one side in.
The most difficult part for me was getting the FMIC in smoothly. Once it was in place the hoses were a bit tough.(Just a tip, the driver side hose is a plastic tubing while the passenger is some kind of a silicone flex hose). I rested all day yesterday because of how exhausted i was. Today i gave my car a nice drive on the freeway, streets. Everything seems to be fine.

Also I would HIGHLY recommend as mentioned in the DIY to wear some kind of clear goggles, a face mask covering nose and mouth and have a bright flashlight handy!

[InHousePerformance]

Yeah its so tight I threw the stock one away cause I dont care who you are that thing isnt ever coming out lol. Its a pain in the butt to get up in there. Its been a while but I feel like the frame was a big pain to get the connectors of the intercooler past.

[gpabalinas81]

Yes, I second that, it was a TIGHT fit, had to cut the back of the shroud to get the MF in there, but it work and mine came with the brackets, so all good, overall, I can feel the performance difference, I havent dynoed but IATs are way lower from hooking up my laptop to the JB4, also fuel economy, I gained about 6 MPGs. If you dont have the G-Plus yet, get it, it is totally identical to the Wagner for $600 bucks less

[Duckysaurus]

Installed it 7/14/2019 (about 3.5 hours with two hands, one a former BMW master tech), some notes below.

Notes so far (for a 14' F10):
- Removing the top-side radiator fan helps with lighting for you to see stuff + getting the G-Plus up.
- C-clips were a bit annoying. Had trouble with passenger side one. Might be just me.
*****Driver side nozzle/coupler on the G-Plus should be milled 5mm-8mm shorter, else you can't get it up or need a lot of pushing on that side. This tied us up the most today. Thread starter had an easier time with driver side than passenger side. Was reverse for me today.
- Driver side coolant hose that runs by the stock IC can be zip tied, but it doesn't really help as the restriction is the metal piece on car (can't take out) rubbing against coupler. Easier to just bleed the coolant/antifreeze and re-attach the hose after you install the G-Plus. Remember to refill the coolant tank and pump into the system before driving.
- Brackets fit fine, stock IC plate is removed with the stock IC, bottom floor plate under IC can be reattached just fine.

You can do this at home if you have two floor jacks for each of the jack points behind front wheels. Gotta get it high enough to put your head under and all. Make sure to put jack stands behind them as a safety precaution. Be safe!

[jonobro]

Originally Posted by gpabalinas81

Yes, I second that, it was a TIGHT fit, had to cut the back of the shroud to get the MF in there, but it work and mine came with the brackets, so all good, overall, I can feel the performance difference, I havent dynoed but IATs are way lower from hooking up my laptop to the JB4, also fuel economy, I gained about 6 MPGs. If you dont have the G-Plus yet, get it, it is totally identical to the Wagner for $600 bucks less

Link me ?!

[jonobro]

Originally Posted by Duckysaurus

Installed it today, will post notes and some pics on it in tomorrow!

Performance better ?

[Duckysaurus]

Originally Posted by jonobro

Performance better ?

Will have to see.

BTW, will need a flathead, a longer pick, a pry bar, and I think I used a 3/4", 3/8" and 5/16" size since I took off the radiator from the top also.

To confirm, just look under the front bumper where it meets the two plates, and also open up the hood and the top screws by the rubber insulator will confirm it.

Look @ my notes 2 posts before for my additions to the thread starter's notes.

Good luck!

[gendong]

Originally Posted by Duckysaurus

Installed it 7/14/2019 (about 3.5 hours with two hands, one a former BMW master tech), some notes below.

Notes so far (for a 14' F10):
- Removing the top-side radiator fan helps with lighting for you to see stuff + getting the G-Plus up.
- C-clips were a bit annoying. Had trouble with passenger side one. Might be just me.
*****Driver side nozzle/coupler on the G-Plus should be milled 5mm-8mm shorter, else you can't get it up or need a lot of pushing on that side. This tied us up the most today. Thread starter had an easier time with driver side than passenger side. Was reverse for me today.
- Driver side coolant hose that runs by the stock IC can be zip tied, but it doesn't really help as the restriction is the metal piece on car (can't take out) rubbing against coupler. Easier to just bleed the coolant/antifreeze and re-attach the hose after you install the G-Plus. Remember to refill the coolant tank and pump into the system before driving.
- Brackets fit fine, stock IC plate is removed with the stock IC, bottom floor plate under IC can be reattached just fine.

You can do this at home if you have two floor jacks for each of the jack points behind front wheels. Gotta get it high enough to put your head under and all. Make sure to put jack stands behind them as a safety precaution. Be safe!

How's the Gplus holding on so far?

[Duckysaurus]

Originally Posted by gendong

How's the Gplus holding on so far?

No problems, stays on extremely secure with the hose C-clips + the brackets. Not worried about it falling out at all. It's really tight!

I'd probably lose my spoiler or diffuser before the FMIC drops out, lol.

[gendong]

Originally Posted by Duckysaurus

No problems, stays on extremely secure with the hose C-clips + the brackets. Not worried about it falling out at all. It's really tight!

I'd probably lose my spoiler or diffuser before the FMIC drops out, lol.

that good to know!! hope you had more fun with it!

[rcsup1]

Any updates on it's performance vs stock? Did you notice any loss in boost pressure?

[trialmountain]

Originally Posted by rcsup1

Any updates on it's performance vs stock? Did you notice any loss in boost pressure?

I did not do any stock logs, but see link below. IAT drops during each pull and was about 10-15 degrees above ambient temperature the whole time.

Works as advertised. Install was a pain, like everyone said it is a very tight fit. Took me about 1.5 hours to install with the help of a friend.

http://www.bootmod3.net/www/index.ht...9#/drawer/logs

[lsturbointeg]

are you guys removing the front bumper when doing this? if not do you think removing the bumper will actually make it easier to get to things?

[ey2001]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

are you guys removing the front bumper when doing this? if not do you think removing the bumper will actually make it easier to get to things?

No the intercooler is between the ac condenser and the fan... so the ic is behind on Ac condenser

[Bts535i]

Originally Posted by ey2001

No the intercooler is between the ac condenser and the fan... so the ic is behind on Ac condenser

just installed mine today.. not as bad as I had worked myself up for.
thanks for all the friendly tips.
I instantly moved to mhd 93 oct 2+ and I'm very pleased.
I let it run in the driveway till I got ait to 120 and within 200yds of my driveway I was down to 100 ait.
drove about 35 miles and temps stayed between 90 and 100 the entire time with multiple pulls..

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Bts535i

just installed mine today.. not as bad as I had worked myself up for.
thanks for all the friendly tips.
I instantly moved to mhd 93 oct 2+ and I'm very pleased.
I let it run in the driveway till I got ait to 120 and within 200yds of my driveway I was down to 100 ait.
drove about 35 miles and temps stayed between 90 and 100 the entire time with multiple pulls..

Sweet! i'm looking forward to ordering mine here soon. any tips that you can point out during your install

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Sweet! i'm looking forward to ordering mine here soon. any tips that you can point out during your install

My biggest advice is to use your jack to your advantage. Unless you're doing this on a proper lift, the angles under the car are super awkward and you'll tire really quickly when maneuvering it in. I used my jack to hold up one side of the intercooler while I got the otherside in. Made it a lot easier.

In the end, the driver's side was just too tight and the lower part of the exit tube couldn't move past an aluminum strut or whatever it was. I got a file and filed the spot back a little (made probably a 1/8" divot) and it finally went in without a hitch. The end of the exit tube doesn't interact with the airflow, so it's not going to affect anything, just looks a little funky, but it's not like you can even see that part when it's installed.

As others said, it's super tight and no way am I ever going to try to take this thing out. I don't foresee needing to take it out/swap it either, so not a problem for me.