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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Wheels / Tires / Suspension / Brakes Vibrations / shaking
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      08-02-2021, 09:15 PM   #23
ldjambazov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
Here's the pics that failed to attach:
Hi Blue Angel, I had few questions if you don't mind.

Do you by any chance know the external diameter of the bushing. I have a ball joint puller set from my mercedes and was wondering if I can use it for this job.

Some people have tried to press the bushing out on a 10t press, and they had to push first the rubber part, then cut the remaining Al shell, and then were able to press out the bushing (shell). Did you have any troubles pushing the bushing out, did you use any lubrication or anything?

Thanks.
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      08-03-2021, 05:13 PM   #24
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Based on my original photos I can see I used the large die at ID 72mm and the small die at OD 68mm, so I'm going to guess the aluminum bushing is about 70mm.
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      08-03-2021, 06:14 PM   #25
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To your second question, I guess I just got lucky as the bushings pressed out rather easily. If I recall, there was a small click when they initially started to move, but after that I was able to press them out the rest of the way using my cordless drill (as pictured).

Now that could be a bit misleading since my drill has a lot of torque (it's not a cheapo drill) and is a bugger to hold onto when it loads up, but it's still a cordless drill and not a 10T press. I was surprised how easily the old bushings came out, and the new ones pressed in with about the same force. No lubrication, no cutting, no sweat (hardly).

I bought this press kit to install a pair of new ball joints into the rear suspension of my wife's E90. I'm pretty sure they were tougher to press than these large-ish bushings were. Part of that may have come down to the screw pitch on the Acme thread, as I don't think I was able to use the largest rod on those ball joints. I was able to use the largest one on these bushings.

I bought this kit on Amazon (Canada) and it's paid for itself about 3x over already after only two jobs. I'm planning to replace all the rubber bushings in my F10 if I can get them, and in some cases it will be FAR cheaper than replacing the arms. The lower control arms on the front, for example, have bushings at the cradle and shock mounts, and on XDrive cars like mine, a replaceable ball joint at the knuckle. The arms with the bushings pre-installed are not cheap, but the bushings are. Since the arm doesn't go bad, just the bushings, I keep the arm and my $$$.

I'll do a writeup once I get a chance to replace everything so other DIYers can follow along if interested.
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      08-05-2021, 11:30 AM   #26
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Subscribed. That would be much appreciated. I need to change the bushings on my Xdrive and would love to see your DIY instructions. Thank you
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      08-05-2021, 12:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
To your second question, I guess I just got lucky as the bushings pressed out rather easily. If I recall, there was a small click when they initially started to move, but after that I was able to press them out the rest of the way using my cordless drill (as pictured).

Now that could be a bit misleading since my drill has a lot of torque (it's not a cheapo drill) and is a bugger to hold onto when it loads up, but it's still a cordless drill and not a 10T press. I was surprised how easily the old bushings came out, and the new ones pressed in with about the same force. No lubrication, no cutting, no sweat (hardly).

I bought this press kit to install a pair of new ball joints into the rear suspension of my wife's E90. I'm pretty sure they were tougher to press than these large-ish bushings were. Part of that may have come down to the screw pitch on the Acme thread, as I don't think I was able to use the largest rod on those ball joints. I was able to use the largest one on these bushings.

I bought this kit on Amazon (Canada) and it's paid for itself about 3x over already after only two jobs. I'm planning to replace all the rubber bushings in my F10 if I can get them, and in some cases it will be FAR cheaper than replacing the arms. The lower control arms on the front, for example, have bushings at the cradle and shock mounts, and on XDrive cars like mine, a replaceable ball joint at the knuckle. The arms with the bushings pre-installed are not cheap, but the bushings are. Since the arm doesn't go bad, just the bushings, I keep the arm and my $$$.

I'll do a writeup once I get a chance to replace everything so other DIYers can follow along if interested.
Thanks, this is very useful information. I am also going to replace my bushings on the control and thrust arms (not sure exactly for the names), but these are items 1 and 6 from the schematic that you posted. Do you know if the bushings for both arms are the same, item 2?
I am looking at Powerflex bushings, people are saying they last a lot longer and the handling is great. I am comparing the handling of my Mercedes e320 and this BMW 535D X-drive, the merc is a lot better going over bumps, but I hope with the new powerflex bushings it will improve.
As for the ball joint, do you know if there are special tools required for changing it?

thanks.
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      08-05-2021, 03:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldjambazov View Post
Thanks, this is very useful information. I am also going to replace my bushings on the control and thrust arms (not sure exactly for the names), but these are items 1 and 6 from the schematic that you posted. Do you know if the bushings for both arms are the same, item 2?
I am looking at Powerflex bushings, people are saying they last a lot longer and the handling is great. I am comparing the handling of my Mercedes e320 and this BMW 535D X-drive, the merc is a lot better going over bumps, but I hope with the new powerflex bushings it will improve.
As for the ball joint, do you know if there are special tools required for changing it?

thanks.
I've got a set of thrust arms with Powerflex bushings already in them if you're interested. Saves money from needing to bring it to a shop to press in.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1807550
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      08-05-2021, 09:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldjambazov View Post
Do you know if the bushings for both arms are the same, item 2?

As for the ball joint, do you know if there are special tools required for changing it?
Item 2 is only for the thrust arm, the control arm has different bushings. If I can find the bushings separately I'll report back.

On XDrive cars, to remove the ball joint you'll need to remove the axle from the wheel bearing which requires replacing the axle bolt (it's torque to yield). Also, the nut on the bottom of the ball joint requires a large 12-point socket, 38 or 41mm, I can't remember exactly but it's a big one.

On RWD cars I believe the ball joint is integral to the control arm, same as with the thrust arm.
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      08-06-2021, 11:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylverlee View Post
I've got a set of thrust arms with Powerflex bushings already in them if you're interested. Saves money from needing to bring it to a shop to press in.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1807550
I saw this posting, i compared the numbers that you have with the required numbers for my 2014 535d xdrive, and they were different.
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      08-06-2021, 12:46 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldjambazov View Post
I saw this posting, i compared the numbers that you have with the required numbers for my 2014 535d xdrive, and they were different.
I see yes I think it’s diff between RWD and AWD
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      09-18-2021, 02:02 PM   #32
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I need to replace my bushings as well. I have a 2014 535 xdrive. I don’t have a press kit as Blue Angel so I’m having a shop do it for me.
@blue Angel, would please provide a link to where you purchased your lemdorder bushings. FCP euro only has the whole arm for sale for $129 ( which isn’t bad but I want to avoid replacing the axle bolt too) . Also, would you please verify that you replaced the bolt #3 in the diagram above from Real OEM


Thank you
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      09-19-2021, 03:09 PM   #33
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You can search for this Lemforder # 35388 01

I believe I got them from Rockauto, but I don't remember for certain.

EDIT: Looks like Rockauto still carries them:


www.rockauto.com/en/parts/lemförder,3538801,control+arm+bushing,7532
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      09-19-2021, 03:18 PM   #34
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Also, I did not replace bolt #3, I reused it.

If your car has around 60,000 miles like mine does [or 100,000 km] or less, replacing just the bushing makes sense. In my opinion, if the car has 90,000 miles or more on the original arms you may be better off replacing the arm as the ball joint may be soon to go anyway. This is especially true if you're paying shop labor to do the work.
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      09-19-2021, 05:10 PM   #35
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Thank you for the reply. I have 75k miles on mine but 90% all highway. Ball joints look good visually but something to think about for sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
Also, I did not replace bolt #3, I reused it.

If your car has around 60,000 miles like mine does [or 100,000 km] or less, replacing just the bushing makes sense. In my opinion, if the car has 90,000 miles or more on the original arms you may be better off replacing the arm as the ball joint may be soon to go anyway. This is especially true if you're paying shop labor to do the work.
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      09-19-2021, 06:12 PM   #36
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For anyone following along, I replaced the thrust arms on my wife's E90 a couple weeks ago. It's got higher mileage and was starting to get the dreaded high speed braking shake, so I put the whole arms in.

It has about 110k miles and the ball joints still seemed to be in good shape. Ball joints don't fail gradually; they're fine one day and completely pooched a few weeks later, so who knows how much longer they were good for.

I tried pressing the bushing out of one of the old arms and it was much harder than I found it on my F10. I had to put as much torque on the screw as I thought I could get away with and then whack the press cap with a hammer to get it to move. I could probably do them that way, but it would take much longer and a proper press would be a better idea.

All that to say, your mileage may vary when it comes to pressing these bushings.
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      09-24-2021, 11:52 PM   #37
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Do you have a link to that kit you got? Ty!
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      09-27-2021, 05:43 AM   #38
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This is it on Amazon Canada. This same kit is likely available under several different brands:

8MILELAKE 26pc Universal Press and Pull Sleeve Kit for The Removal and Installation of Bushes/Bearings and Seals https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XFNPKMQ/...UTF8&psc=1
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      10-08-2021, 08:42 PM   #39
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If there is no issue after exchanging the front wheels each other, I think knuckle and hub bearing has something wrong.
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      10-30-2021, 07:33 AM   #40
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Subscribed. I'm a newbie so probably won't it myself but really interesting
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      10-30-2021, 07:44 AM   #41
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Thrust Arm, Control Arm and Radius Arm. Are these all the same thing on an F10?
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      11-02-2021, 01:37 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
I replaced just the bushings on the thrust arms today with Lemforder parts. They look identical to the OE parts and even have the same numbers molded in, though BMW and the OE part number look to have been manually removed.

This was a relatively easy job using a press/pull sleeve kit I originally bought to do some rear ball joints on my Wife's 3 Series. I was able to use my high torque drill to press them, making the job pretty quick. If you pull all the plastic panels out of the way there's enough space to do it without removing the arm, a big plus on XDrive cars.

My car has the original 20" wheels and stupid-hard run flat tires, and the wheels were bent when I bought the car. I'm not able to claim yet that this fixed my vibration issues, but I can say that the original bushings were much softer than the replacements. You can visually see how much rubber has worn away inside the old bushings, and pushing on the arms after installation they were much stiffer against rotation.

I'll be getting new wheels/tires soon and I hope to report smooth sailing. My brand new winter wheel/tire setup vibrated slightly, and I was back at the shop for rebalancing several times… all along it may have been an issue with the car!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
Here's the pics that failed to attach:
Hey Blue Angel
Was you happy this was a full fix? My chap wants £500 including parts and fitting but he will ony swap the whole arms.
I'm going to have a go at your method on my 2015 F10 but I've never used a spanner on a car in anger.
Looks reletivly straight forward just need a good dry day.
Anything I need to look out for?
Whats that hi-torque drill model you used? Is it a combi drill? Or could I just spanner it?
I've got to buy the drill and bush push/pull kit plus anything else or do i just give my chap the monkey to get it done?
Thanks
Daren
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      11-02-2021, 07:05 PM   #43
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See my comments above about the bushings on my wife's E90 that are much harder to press. I may have gotten lucky, or maybe all F10's are easy? I don't know.

I have the 1/2" drive heavy duty Makita hammer drill, I think it's rated over 1000 in-lbs. You surely could use a wrench, it would just take longer.

Depending on your mileage it might be best to do the whole arms. If so and you're XDrive, the axle bolts need removing and replacing, adding some time/cost. They're torque-to-yield so you need a torque wrench and a marker to set the new bolts.

The front bushing bolts also need to be replaced.

Jack both sides off the ground at the same time. If you don't the torsion in the sway bar will make your life miserable.

As with everything, weigh the cost of paying someone else vs the hassle/time/risks involved with DIY.

I'm not able to say if this fixed my problem or not. My new wheels appear to be improperly machined, causing vibrations. I'm having bad luck so far!!! What I can say is after 100k kms the old bushings were softer than the new ones and the front end did feel tighter once replaced. It was a subtle difference but noticeable over sharp bumps.
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