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02-15-2021, 04:19 AM | #1 |
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so my 2013 528i suddenly not blowing cool air, instead blowing hot air. took it to the shop i thought need a freon refill but it says the magnetic clutch need it to change.
called couple of shops and they said i cant just simply change the magnetic clutch, i need the whole thing, i mean the air con compressor and quoted me $500ish just for the parts. anyone ever encounter this kind of problem before? what's the solution of this problem? |
02-15-2021, 12:49 PM | #2 | |
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02-15-2021, 10:54 PM | #3 | |
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02-17-2021, 05:54 AM | #4 | ||
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02-17-2021, 05:55 AM | #5 | ||
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02-17-2021, 07:50 AM | #6 |
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Most shops won’t even consider touching the A/C compressor without the additional work performed to guarantee proper functionality of the system.
This means the condenser, drier, expansion valve and evaporator flush/replacement are also required due to the potential of metal shards from the failing compressor contaminating the system resulting a premature failure of the new compressor. Now...... you CAN just replace the clutch assembly and if it works, then it’s good to go. Until it really fails and you’ll have to do the said work above. If the ac still functions and there’s no drag while turning the compressor by hand, then it may be safe to replace the compressor itself without the need to replace the rest as long as the system is properly flushed/vacuumed. So.... in summary, it’s smarter to replace the compressor but it’s easier and cheaper to replace the clutch. But you do use it 24/7 so take that into consideration....... |
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02-17-2021, 01:00 PM | #7 | |
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I've never heard about just replacing the field assembly. Should you replace the compressor yourself be sure to also replace the receiver/dryer. Removing the compressor will allow moisture into the system and contaminate dryer. The difficulty of the job depends on the difficulty of accessing the compressor (and dryer) and lines. |
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02-17-2021, 01:24 PM | #8 |
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It’s relatively easy to replace the mag field on the compressor as long as accessibility is not a concern.
The center bolt that holds the clutch/dampener will have to be removed. Then that piece comes out. It is usually splined or keyed since that drives the compressor itself. Then you’ll have to remove the free wheel pulley setup(the one that the belt rides one) by what I’ve seen most is with a snap ring or a captured spiral washer. Then you’ll need a puller to remove the said pulley/bearing assembly. Then finally the mag field which is usually held by bolts, screws, or nuts. Take it out and reverse the order. But the kicker here is that the compressor assembly is all manufactured as one. If one piece of the unit fails, then the surrounding parts are potentially on their way out. This would be a good time to consider replacing the whole unit without the need to replace the rest of the system since it was functional and didn’t pose any signs of catastrophic failure which would render a complete (and very expensive) A/C overhaul. A simple flush/vacuum to get rid of the moisture would be sufficient with the ac compressor replacement and proper recharge with suitable oil and r-134a. The dryer would also be smart to change out though I’ve seen was got away with as long as the system was not compromised from a catastrophic failure. I did a compressor change in my 1996 Chevy truck due to a leaking compressor housing. Just the compressor. Still works after 4 years ownership and currently in use. I also did the same procedure on a 1995 escort, from the same issue plus the compressor pulley bearing was making horrid noises. Worked for 2 years before she traded it in. My 2011 550i currently has 131k miles and still kicking Ice cold AC (denso makes fantastic compressors which baffles me why the OP has a failed component....) So a failing field may not ruin the ac system but it is an indication of the health of the compressor. I rather change it while you are able and cheaper vs changing out the clutch and have it blow up in the future causing yourself a much, much bigger headache and payout. |
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