[Jcole9656]

I just ordered intercooler, downpipes and bootMod3. Hesitant on installing the downpipes as I don't want to deal with the CEL and smog check. Are there any options of dealing with said issues above or is it just part of the headache when having downpipes? Lastly, is anyone running a tune without the downpipe? Do I really need to have the intercooler? I am a novice and am trying to learn.....so be gentle.

Engine mods so far is VRSF charge Pipe, M Performance Exhaust, BMS intake.

[ey2001]

Originally Posted by Jcole9656

I just ordered intercooler, downpipes and bootMod3. Hesitant on installing the downpipes as I don't want to deal with the CEL and smog check. Are there any options of dealing with said issues above or is it just part of the headache when having downpipes? Lastly, is anyone running a tune without the downpipe? Do I really need to have the intercooler? I am a novice and am trying to learn.....so be gentle.

Engine mods so far is VRSF charge Pipe, M Performance Exhaust, BMS intake.

Once you get a tune the cel will not be on... since your in socal smog here is pretty strict... so you have 2 options.... switch back to stock downpipe when doing smog or know someone and pay $$$ to pass it for you

[lsturbointeg]

Did you get catless dp? Also, you should do your research before just buying parts. Plenty of threads here that go over everything you just asked to give you a better understanding of what works in your situation

[Jcole9656]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Did you get catless dp? Also, you should do your research before just buying parts. Plenty of threads here that go over everything you just asked to give you a better understanding of what works in your situation

Catless yes. And I've been asking around and have done my research with people
On word of mouth. Just curious to get an actual board conversation and thoughts here. If I don't install it, I'll just send it back. But thanks for the feedback. Really I just want someone to give me that extra warm and fuzzy to take that move to just say "eff" it and install it.

[itzjoker]

Bootmod3 has option to turn off CEL for downpipes. You can run a Stage 1 tune with stock downpipes.

If you install downpipes, you will not pass smog. Bootmod3 Stage 2 requires downpipes and at least 1 step colder spark plugs.

If you want to play it safe, run stage 1 and return the downpipes and intercoolers.

Not sure the power increase between Stage 1 & 2, but I think with downpipes it should be around ~30-40 whp.

Edit: ignore this I thought you had the N63

[Unspec]

bootmod3 lists the required mods in the maps, so just read that.

Stage 1 is no hardware required, but generally a charge pipe is heavily suggested.

Stage 2 is FMIC and HF downpipe, a catless if you go with the aggressive burbles map

Sparks are not required for any of the stages, but they do suggest one step colder:
https://bootmod3.atlassian.net/wiki/...+and+which+gap

CEL won't pop since BM3 gives you an option to turn it off (in customize map options), but you won't pass smog.

[Jcole9656]

Originally Posted by Unspec

bootmod3 lists the required mods in the maps, so just read that.

Stage 1 is no hardware required, but generally a charge pipe is heavily suggested.

Stage 2 is FMIC and HF downpipe, a catless if you go with the aggressive burbles map

Sparks are not required for any of the stages, but they do suggest one step colder:
https://bootmod3.atlassian.net/wiki/...+and+which+gap

CEL won't pop since BM3 gives you an option to turn it off (in customize map options), but you won't pass smog.

Originally Posted by Unspec

bootmod3 lists the required mods in the maps, so just read that.

Stage 1 is no hardware required, but generally a charge pipe is heavily suggested.

Stage 2 is FMIC and HF downpipe, a catless if you go with the aggressive burbles map

Sparks are not required for any of the stages, but they do suggest one step colder:
https://bootmod3.atlassian.net/wiki/...+and+which+gap

CEL won't pop since BM3 gives you an option to turn it off (in customize map options), but you won't pass smog.

Thanks! I think I'm just gonna go for it. I don't really have to have the car smog till 2025 since this is a 2016. My tune should be here before the weekend. So I'm just going to go ahead and do the stage 1 until the DP and FMIC show up next week!

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Jcole9656

Thanks! I think I'm just gonna go for it. I don't really have to have the car smog till 2025 since this is a 2016. My tune should be here before the weekend. So I'm just going to go ahead and do the stage 1 until the DP and FMIC show up next week!

Protip for the downpipe, if you're doing it yourself: drop the entire exhaust. Makes the whole thing so much easier to line up. And get a propane torch in case the connection is being stubborn (rust welded)

[CommoN81]

Eff it and do it. same thing I did, just different tune. did new plugs 1 step colder soon after stage 1 and downpipe. I figure it's cheap and doesnt hurt. going in for stage 2 soon and dyno. emissions need to be done before Sept so will figure that out soon enough. not worried about it. also for DP install I didnt need to drop full exhaust. I loosened the bracket mid car holding it up and was able to get enough play from hangers to give myself plenty of room to get it out, easily 4 to 5in.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by Jcole9656

Catless yes. And I've been asking around and have done my research with people
On word of mouth. Just curious to get an actual board conversation and thoughts here. If I don't install it, I'll just send it back. But thanks for the feedback. Really I just want someone to give me that extra warm and fuzzy to take that move to just say "eff" it and install it.

Just as an FYI, the tunes disable the check engine light will still not pass an OBII/Sniff emissions test. The tunes just disable the check engine light but when you scan the car via OBIII it will report cat not ready and fail an inspection.

I'll just mention having gone down this road in the past. That it is possible to go catless or high flow cat and not trigger a CEL and not have to tune the CEL out. Do some research here, and you'll find the solution, it will allow the car to pass inspection without bribing someone.

Pro-Tip. Its a lot easier to pass inspection if you have a high flow cat as cars with no cats at all smell, and its recognizable to anyone with automotive experience the smell of unburned fuel. A high flow gives you the performance and eliminates the stink, its also quieter as the cat acts as a bid of a sound absorber.

Personally I've never liked cat-less because of the smell and preferred high flow. The difference in performance is barely measurable on a dyno and in the real world unnoticeable, but the stink being gone is real noticeable.

[Jcole9656]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Just as an FYI, the tunes disable the check engine light will still not pass an OBII/Sniff emissions test. The tunes just disable the check engine light but when you scan the car via OBIII it will report cat not ready and fail an inspection.

I'll just mention having gone down this road in the past. That it is possible to go catless or high flow cat and not trigger a CEL and not have to tune the CEL out. Do some research here, and you'll find the solution, it will allow the car to pass inspection without bribing someone.

Pro-Tip. Its a lot easier to pass inspection if you have a high flow cat as cars with no cats at all smell, and its recognizable to anyone with automotive experience the smell of unburned fuel. A high flow gives you the performance and eliminates the stink, its also quieter as the cat acts as a bid of a sound absorber.

Personally I've never liked cat-less because of the smell and preferred high flow. The difference in performance is barely measurable on a dyno and in the real world unnoticeable, but the stink being gone is real noticeable.

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Just as an FYI, the tunes disable the check engine light will still not pass an OBII/Sniff emissions test. The tunes just disable the check engine light but when you scan the car via OBIII it will report cat not ready and fail an inspection.

I'll just mention having gone down this road in the past. That it is possible to go catless or high flow cat and not trigger a CEL and not have to tune the CEL out. Do some research here, and you'll find the solution, it will allow the car to pass inspection without bribing someone.

Pro-Tip. Its a lot easier to pass inspection if you have a high flow cat as cars with no cats at all smell, and its recognizable to anyone with automotive experience the smell of unburned fuel. A high flow gives you the performance and eliminates the stink, its also quieter as the cat acts as a bid of a sound absorber.

Personally I've never liked cat-less because of the smell and preferred high flow. The difference in performance is barely measurable on a dyno and in the real world unnoticeable, but the stink being gone is real noticeable.

Do you have a recommendation for a high flow cat? Thanks!

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by CommoN81

Eff it and do it. same thing I did, just different tune. did new plugs 1 step colder soon after stage 1 and downpipe. I figure it's cheap and doesnt hurt. going in for stage 2 soon and dyno. emissions need to be done before Sept so will figure that out soon enough. not worried about it. also for DP install I didnt need to drop full exhaust. I loosened the bracket mid car holding it up and was able to get enough play from hangers to give myself plenty of room to get it out, easily 4 to 5in.

Are you xDrive? I know many people report the DP install being easier on non-xDrives because they don't have the stiffening plate.

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Just as an FYI, the tunes disable the check engine light will still not pass an OBII/Sniff emissions test. The tunes just disable the check engine light but when you scan the car via OBIII it will report cat not ready and fail an inspection.

I'll just mention having gone down this road in the past. That it is possible to go catless or high flow cat and not trigger a CEL and not have to tune the CEL out. Do some research here, and you'll find the solution, it will allow the car to pass inspection without bribing someone.

Pro-Tip. Its a lot easier to pass inspection if you have a high flow cat as cars with no cats at all smell, and its recognizable to anyone with automotive experience the smell of unburned fuel. A high flow gives you the performance and eliminates the stink, its also quieter as the cat acts as a bid of a sound absorber.

Personally I've never liked cat-less because of the smell and preferred high flow. The difference in performance is barely measurable on a dyno and in the real world unnoticeable, but the stink being gone is real noticeable.

Some states let you pass OBDII emissions with 1 unready light. Since we only have 1 downpipe (versus the two on S55's), it'll usually only lead to 1 unready light (post-cat sensor) and most times you'll pass. You can get it to read green as well by using O2 spacers to take it out of the exhaust stream and trick the O2 sensor, but it's trial and error to find the right amount of spacers.

Originally Posted by Jcole9656

Do you have a recommendation for a high flow cat? Thanks!

Evolution racewerks is what I went with, great build quality. You definitely want one that has a flex section.

[lsturbointeg]

My 535i RWD catless dp from VRSF was pretty easy and straight forward to install other than it sucked i had to drop the whole exhaust down in order to get the OEM dp out since there not a whole lot of wiggle room to separate the dp from the exhaust. but i did use the Vibrant o2 spacer to prevent the CEL from coming on. make sure the Vibrant o2 spacer is facing upward.

[Phiwee]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

My 535i RWD catless dp from VRSF was pretty easy and straight forward to install other than it sucked i had to drop the whole exhaust down in order to get the OEM dp out since there not a whole lot of wiggle room to separate the dp from the exhaust. but i did use the Vibrant o2 spacer to prevent the CEL from coming on. make sure the Vibrant o2 spacer is facing upward.

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

My 535i RWD catless dp from VRSF was pretty easy and straight forward to install other than it sucked i had to drop the whole exhaust down in order to get the OEM dp out since there not a whole lot of wiggle room to separate the dp from the exhaust. but i did use the Vibrant o2 spacer to prevent the CEL from coming on. make sure the Vibrant o2 spacer is facing upward.
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Feels like I ask you for everything lol!
Do you have the jack stands on the control arms? I might have to give this dp install a try 😉

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Phiwee

Feels like I ask you for everything lol!
Do you have the jack stands on the control arms? I might have to give this dp install a try 😉

DIYing the DP is honestly not hard. The hardest part is getting the damn v-band clamp on properly.

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Phiwee

Feels like I ask you for everything lol!
Do you have the jack stands on the control arms? I might have to give this dp install a try 😉

Haha no worries! Yup, doesn't look.like its hurting the arms at all. I need to order 3 more BMW jack adaptors cause I don't want to ruin those plastic housing thingies

[kennf10]

sorry to jump in guys. also a noob with tuning thingy.. have some question about tuning.

so let say i wanna go with bm3 stage 2 but my mods is all that required but not the intercooler, what will happen with the car?

and what is the gains am i lookin at?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by lsturbointeg

Haha no worries! Yup, doesn't look.like its hurting the arms at all. I need to order 3 more BMW jack adaptors cause I don't want to ruin those plastic housing thingies

Do what Tommy L Garage did. Get the rubber-y ones, and just screw them into the plastic housings. It's what I'm doing as well. Prevents dealers from "forgetting" to use adapters and non-BMW places from ruining them unintentionally.

[Phiwee]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Do what Tommy L Garage did. Get the rubber-y ones, and just screw them into the plastic housings. It's what I'm doing as well. Prevents dealers from "forgetting" to use adapters and non-BMW places from ruining them unintentionally.

Originally Posted by Unspec

Do what Tommy L Garage did. Get the rubber-y ones, and just screw them into the plastic housings. It's what I'm doing as well. Prevents dealers from "forgetting" to use adapters and non-BMW places from ruining them unintentionally.

Can you link me a picture for reference? Might have to try to do same or have to do like my friend did and put it on control arms

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Phiwee

Can you link me a picture for reference? Might have to try to do same or have to do like my friend did and put it on control arms

[Jcole9656]

Originally Posted by kennf10

sorry to jump in guys. also a noob with tuning thingy.. have some question about tuning.

so let say i wanna go with bm3 stage 2 but my mods is all that required but not the intercooler, what will happen with the car?

and what is the gains am i lookin at?

Originally Posted by kennf10

sorry to jump in guys. also a noob with tuning thingy.. have some question about tuning.

so let say i wanna go with bm3 stage 2 but my mods is all that required but not the intercooler, what will happen with the car?

and what is the gains am i lookin at?

Based on hearing others and research that not having the intercooler
On stage 2 can still be run. It becomes a problem if you are running the car at
Long times in hot weather. Anyone else
To chime in would be awesome! Thanks!

[lsturbointeg]

Originally Posted by Unspec

only issue is how the rubber one's get really deformed. i would think overtime chunks would fall off. what about the metal adaptors. i'm thinking drilling holes should be fine?