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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions H&R Spring Install Pics and tips
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      07-12-2018, 07:35 PM   #67
etnsandman
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Trying again tomorrow. I plan to wedge the suspension while the wheel is still on since the suspension pops up once the shock is removed. I plan to remove the caliper and the rear most lower suspension arm. This should finally allow me to finally free the shock and get the springs changed.

I kind of like the slight rake the car has at the moment with the front lowered. But getting the rear lowered will be great, that fender gap is crazy.
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      07-14-2018, 01:09 AM   #68
John H.
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Remain tenacious brother. Attention to detail is everything. I'm looking forward to your completion.
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      08-01-2018, 07:58 AM   #69
etnsandman
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Finally done. The wedge theory failed. But I found a way to fit a bottle jack in and it was smooth sailing from there. Ride feels good and traction is way better.




Last edited by etnsandman; 08-01-2018 at 08:11 AM.
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      08-03-2018, 04:37 PM   #70
John H.
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Outstanding! Looks great!
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      08-06-2018, 01:10 PM   #71
535_BiTurbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextremo View Post
Just an update to this for those with EDC and IAS...

I used this write up to install my ACS springs this weekend on jackstands by myself in my garage and it was great (thanks to @hamanncheese for the write up and @ImSW1 for the tips!) A couple of differences that I noticed:

1) I did not need to remove the other suspension bits in the rear to get the strut out as shown above, I just removed the wheel well liner and it came out easily.

2) The speaker covers on the back deck just pop out using a trim removal tool - start with the front and then push up to remove.

3) I picked up a bendy wrench from HF for $10 and it made removing the strut tower bolts under the speaker a piece of cake.

4) I did need to remove the tension strut in the front to get the strut out - the extra electronics and valves on the strut body won't allow it to come out as mentioned above. To remove this I used a 24mm box end wrench and a T47 driver.

5) There is a plug leading from the strut to to a plastic housing for the electronics that you have to remove. The housing has tabs on top that you can pop open with your fingertips, the plug has a lock on the black end that you push to release and it pops right out.

6) If I had to do it again, I would probably pay a garage with a hydraulic spring compressor to swap the springs once I got them out. That was the worst part of the job, especially on the front springs...
great info!
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      08-17-2018, 02:40 AM   #72
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Any questions I'll be happy to help
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