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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Cold trans: 1-second delay after shifting into D or R before the car will move |
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02-08-2020, 08:17 AM | #1 |
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Cold trans: 1-second delay after shifting into D or R before the car will move
This only happens when the trans is cold (overnight or after a work day). I'm experiencing a 1-second delay after shifting into D or R before the car will move. It doesn't happen when the car is warm.
I can't imagine this is normal behavior--has anyone else experienced it and/or have any idea why it does this? Thanks! |
02-08-2020, 09:02 AM | #2 | |
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02-08-2020, 09:20 AM | #3 |
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BMW first said was from low fluid when mine did that but then still happened so replaced mechatronics unit then replaced whole trans. I would check for leaks and fluid levels if their good then it most likely is the mechatronics unit you can get a rebuilt one for 799. Only thing is if been like that for a while their could be worn hard parts. You can check quick charge pressure with xhp or any scantool even a coding environment image should have tools to access. If the pressures and times aren't crazy high most likely like previously said it's a worn bushing or solenoid. You can buy upgraded bushings from propulsive dynamics and buy a zip kit and solenoids to do yourself but honestly to have a rebuilt unit for 799 you bolt in with no chance for reaming errors etc is worth the slight increase in cost over rebuilding yourself.
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02-08-2020, 10:33 AM | #4 |
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Thanks. I should have noted that it's a CPO 2015, still under warranty, with 40k miles. I just had it checked out by my indy (I had him do a once-over before warranty runs out) and he didn't see any leaks.
Trying to gather as much information as I can before I take it into the dealer. Last edited by VAB5; 02-08-2020 at 10:44 AM.. |
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02-08-2020, 11:59 AM | #5 |
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Take in asap cause they are gonna reprogram and do relearn etc trying to avoid that 26k bill . Theybprob will do the mech unit first as well so you want to get it in their while it's still cold. I noticed it was only happening when was cold out after they did my valve body so if it was summer or just not middle of winter I prob would have thought it was fixed meanwhile it wasnt. Also they prob will do your transfer case first to that ls another 7g repair according to them but hey it's good for you
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02-08-2020, 03:16 PM | #6 |
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I dunno - a 1 second delay when overnight winter cold doesn't necessarily sound like a "problem".
The first things it makes me think of are fluid related - too little of it, too thick, can't get through filter and pickup to get pumped around. You aren't that far off from ZF (trans manufacturer) recommended fluid/filter service interval of 100,000km / 60k miles. If it were mine, I would do a genuine ZF fluid/filter replace and proper by-the-book level set (using ISTA, proper temperatures etc) and see if it's any different. No flushes. No aftermarket fluids (like LiquiMoly) since you still have warranty. (Don't go on about Magnuson-Moss unless you like making things more difficult for yourself over less than $100). If you use genuine, dealer can't tell the difference if they have to tear into it. FCP Euro has the whole kit for ~$260USD. |
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02-08-2020, 04:10 PM | #7 |
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I had a similar issue before, don't remember when warm or cold. But I remember doing the throttle adaption reset and a transmission adaption reset through ISTA. Not sure which process helped, but trans has been great so far about 30,000 miles later. Fluid hasn't been changed either, haven't gotten around to it yet.
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02-08-2020, 04:22 PM | #8 |
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Hes in warranty he might as well get it fixed. If I wasn't in warranty i wouldn't have been to upset but if planning on tuning then you have to get these things early before they grow into bigger problems.
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02-09-2020, 12:54 PM | #10 |
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Note of caution - transmission adaptations are not to be reset willy-nilly
https://www.xhpflashtool.com/blog/adaptions/ |
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02-09-2020, 03:17 PM | #11 |
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That's why he should not touch it even changing fluid is usually temp fix if you already have symptoms. The relearn procedure isnt to bad if you have open highway it looks worse than it actually is. On my e92 I have done it 5 or 6 times as we had to drop my trans numerous times and change solenoids and gaskets few times while troubleshooting a custom build. If you print the instructions so have physical copy it takes about 40 min to do full learn
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02-11-2020, 07:34 PM | #12 |
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Mine was exhibiting the same behavior at around 55k miles. Did transmission fluid flush and new transmission filter/pan and it never did it again. Just my $0.02
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02-12-2020, 06:29 AM | #14 |
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02-12-2020, 09:02 AM | #15 |
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I stand by my statement a fluid change is not a repair. It Is maintenance that should be done but your kidding yourself if you classify it as a repair. If you are experiencing problems the likelihood of fluid change only fixing anything is very rare. It mcarthy help mask temporarily but at the least you need do the sleeve and gaskets. The issue is if you drove for while with any issues then you have burnt fluid and also have worn you're frictions more than normal which the trans has the ability to compensate for wear but only so much. Also of you increase power and also have extra wear you have higher likelihood of problems. The biggest thing Is since the trans adapts that means by the time you feel anything that means it has worn past this threshold that it can acount for. Zf calls for anything over 750 on adaptations as out of spec but healthy should be less than 250 so unless you have a complete failure of a seal that cause an abrupt pressure loss or a failed solenoid etc then you most likely have been slowly wearing the transmission down. That's why I said on low mileage a fluid change is great but dont kid yourself If high mileage. And if under warranty he would be crazy not to get anything possible repaired.
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02-12-2020, 11:09 AM | #16 | |
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02-12-2020, 02:20 PM | #18 |
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Checked today and values have changed a bit and since I can't attach picture for some reason via phone I am typing the values.
Quick charge clutch pressures: A = -130 mbar B = -106 mbar C = 534 mbar D = -102 mbar E = 156 mbar Quick charge times: A = 117 ms B = 0 ms C = 40 ms D = 7 ms E = 0 ms |
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02-14-2020, 07:39 AM | #19 |
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No disagreement. However you're asserting that prior to maintenance there are never any "problems". Some jerky shifting etc... can certainly be observed when fluid and filter are at the end of their life, and those "problems" are fixed by performing maintenance. No repair is necessary.
You seem to be saying that there will never be any difference in any system before and after maintenance, and that's misleading. Whenever anyone says they've noticed shifts getting a little jerky, the first question is always 'when was the fluid and filter last changed'. When the reply is "never", the next post says to change them and get back to us. It's not "too late". Now, shifting jerky getting worse for the last two years, fluid leaking on the floor, now it's in limp mode and shavings in the pan? Sure - you've got a major issue. It is too late. When I do maintenance fluid changes, even when well before due, I usually notice an improvement of some kind. The brakes are firmer, shifts are smoother, the clutch is nicer, the engine idles quieter - whatever it is improves due to the maintenance performed. Lots of little "problems" reported by observant owners fall into this category IMHO and advising people not to perform maintenance because it must be too late by the time they've noticed something will do more harm than good in the community, also IMHO. Maybe that's not what you meant, but that's how your posts read to me. |
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02-14-2020, 03:55 PM | #20 |
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I def didnt mean to convey that. I was referring to his particular situation which he is under warranty.
I def agree maintenance usually has affect whether placebo or not idk but tune up is great lol. My point was when having an issue where something is wrong and you are ob a forum trying to fix then most likely fluid isnt your problem. A smoother shift is way diff then fixing a slip or a bang. My point was is the trans adapts so once you are having problems it usually means parts are worn unless you have failed solenoid or leaking seal. That's why I was saying should get rebuilt mech unit and do fluid and filter . Most that just to fluid to fix prob are actually feeling the adapatation reset temporarily putting a little pep in their step. Other thing thing was if under warranty let them fix dont band aid it . Every situation diff I more meant do maint proactively not reactively. |
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02-20-2020, 09:06 AM | #21 |
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UPDATE: I did a bit of experimenting, and if I put it in gear and immediately remove my foot from the brake, the car moves right away. If I keep my foot on the brake after shifting into gear, that's when I get the delay. So it seems as if the brakes are holding it, not the transmission delaying.
Anyone familiar with this type of behavior? Still planning to bring it to the dealer, but looking to arm myself with info. Thanks! |
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