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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 BMW 5-Series (F10) Forums General 5-Series Sedan and Wagon (F10 / F11) Forum Rkstar9's 535D Build/Journal
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      05-07-2019, 02:28 PM   #67
rkstar9
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Back to electronic woes

"headlight malfunction" warning came back while driving on the rain yesterday.

If 2 + 2 still equals 4 water got inside the headlight and burned the shit out of the module.

luckily I removed the module today from behind the wheel well cover and it's dry, but everything else in there is wet.



turns out the driver wheel well has a crack from the accident. I flinstoned it with hot glue temporarely but it came apart. it's basically showering the entire back of the headlight with water.

after some drying for about an hour





ISTA still reads "LIN bus malfunction" "check connectivity between FRM and STML and STMR

I am also seeing 12 v to the STML on the power side, so the only fault is the LIN bus cable from STML to FRM

the connector to the headlight is one that I did not get to last time wit the silicone, it was covered in water as long as all the other cables and connectors in that area.

Here is the fault cause analysis.

1. driver wheel well crack let water in
2. one or more connectors shorted out
3. since both headlight modules show a no communication error its fair to assume the FRM is toast again.

Remedy:
1 new fender on it's way,
2 spray all cables with "flex seal" it's a rubbery spray compound that somewhat seals after a bunch of coats.
3. Get new frm module.

Additional thoughts:
the reason every F10 coming out of the factory has headlight fogging is that the poorly designed wheel well shroud leaks water into the bumper area, this eventually evaporates and gets absorbed into the headlight trough the rear vents.

will figure out a way to reinforce the wheel well shroud, possibly spray the underside with flex seal until it's water tight.
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      06-16-2019, 10:04 AM   #68
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My assumption was correct the FRM burned out a second time.

Back to normal again after installing a new unit,




installed the Chinese fender as well and applied flex seal behind the bumper on all the cables running behind it.




Old Crack on fender




Now I found out the AC refrigerant is not holding, put in a can of ac pro seal as well as blue angels leak seal. No dye is visible anywhere in the front of the engine.

I am also breathing refrigerant as I am driving so I'm 90% sure the evaporator is leaking.

The repair is about 16 hours of labor + the part. so around 2k or 3k The dash needs to come off and it is one bitch of a job.

Not sure where to go from here.

The car does have an esc extended warranty. which might or might not be transferable to me after the car was sold at an auction.

will be calling BMW on monday to find out, if it isn't covered I will be looking at any possible way to fix the evaporator trough the passenger foot well compartment.

Records show the evaporator was replaced at 20k under warranty and now again at 92k is needing replacing. This is not unheard off not just in f10s but 1 series as well.

It does appear the part has been superseded

64119383678
Evaporator
From:11/01/2015To:-Weight:1.620 kgPrice:
Supersedes:
64119163331 (11/01/2008 05/18/2016), Exchangeable retrospectively64119237501 (10/01/2010 10/13/2011)

This is the extended warranty information

ESC PL
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      06-17-2019, 09:23 AM   #69
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welp, my local BMW SA can't see any warranty on the car.

Id have to call BMW NA and find a way to have the 100K Mile ESC warranty re instated.

I know if the car was ever part of an auction or dealer it would lose the warranty, but Im not sure if BMW knows that.
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      06-25-2019, 07:25 PM   #70
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Car has no Extended warranty, previous owner cancelled the policy in wiriting.

I changed a shrader valve but the refrigerant loss continues. it's about 1lb per 24 hours.

Today I injected red angels 2 oz fluid seal. with another lb of refrigerant. let it idle for 20 min with ac on max.



This was the last option, no dye can be seen anywhere and I already tried 2 other different sealants.

It's all pointing towards the Evaporator. To be certain, I will need to confirm refrigerant leak coming from the vents. I bought a 20 buck electric scanner from amazon. should be here in a week.


meanwhile I went ahead and mounted the Stanadyne FM100 fuel filter with 2 micron and water separator bowl.



The stock 1/4 inch fuel line will fit right in, will tackle this project one day when I can properly take the time to prime the system with ISTA.
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      07-20-2019, 09:48 PM   #71
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The No AC condition has become a significant issue.



The system now loses 1lb of r134a in less than 15 hours. Having already injected dangerous levels of dye both standalone and as part of the 3 sealing systems I have tried. I am not able to see evidence of any die anywhere in the car.

Granted I have not gotten under the car to check leaks underneath the car. And while there is a possibility the ac compressor might have a very difficult to see leak behind the pulley. I find that highly unlikely.

Using a 15 dollar sniffer pictured above proved to be a waste of time, It beeps on my x5 when cold air is blowing on it. Also there is the possiblity the refrigerant could be pulled into the driver vents from a leak in the engine compartment.

The possible ways to proceed in order of least effort/cost are:

1. Purchase an ultrasonic device that can hear ultrasonic turbulence caused by the leak. The leak is huge so this should spot it. but if it's too deep under the dash it might not.

Luckily the noise can be created by creating vacuum or by putting a 4 dollar can of 1lb of 134a from home depot. Nitrogen can also be used and should create a louder ultrasound as the molecules are thinner.

2. Purchase a more powerful UV LED light that might give out the dye better than my pen UV light. The dyes have been both UV and Red color so not sure if this is of any use.

3. Pressurize the entire system with Nitrogen as above. Except the BMW manual calls for pressurizing the evaporator ONLY. Not having the Evaporator pressurizing adapter (and no where to buy it) would mean I would have to DIY a adapter that can hold 120psi or pressurize the entire system. Not sure if this is safe. Not sure on the cost of a small 10lb can of Nitrogen + necessary adapters It would be at least 200 bucks. No garantee Ill be able to hear it.

4. With the car completely cold, feed refrigerant and check with a thermal camera if the gas cools up the sorrounding areas. This would only work if the leak was by the compressor shaft seal or somewhere under the hood.



My main suspect is the evaporator. Strange smells coming from it might be a give away. but smells come from it even when it's out of refrigerant. which means there is probably some mold or something else that is causing the smell.

BMW quotes $ 350 just to run dye trough the system. It goes up from there. No they will not just pressurize the evaporator for me. They have their proceidures. But Im looking at 1k bucks just to diagnose.

The evaporator replacement job if needed would be 16 hours plus parts.

The dash is not coming off unless I am 100% certain the evaporator is at fault. And the ultrasonic device appears to be my best option right now.

Went with the Inficon whisper trough amazon. If it's of no use I can always return it.

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      07-20-2019, 10:31 PM   #72
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Nice build it has come a long way!

Good luck on everything man!
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      07-23-2019, 03:09 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurrNinja View Post
Nice build it has come a long way!

Good luck on everything man!


Thank you!!



I got a new toy today



Ran a few tests on stove to get an idea of what gas sounds like as well as a open faucet. Leaks sound like wind trough the ultrasonic detector. Perfect.

First inspected the car troughly on and off with the microphone to get used to all the noises. (there is a beep coming from the ignition)

Then popped in a can or 134a (also cracked a leak on the hoses and listened to it with the ultrasonic device, sounds like air turbulence very very loud. )

With the car off scanned both shraeder valves. the front condenser around the compressor wheel and the evaporator. Yup there is distinctive sound coming from the evaporator.

Took a step further and removed passenger airbag as well as cabin filter enclosure. Sound gets louder, the sound is very specific to the location of the evaporator.





The sound decreases in intensity as the car sits with the engine off. after around 3 minutes the sound decreases almost completely.

I presume the refrigerant in the evaporator decreases in quantity when the compressor is not constantly pumping more refrigerant into it when it's leaking.

The evaporator is known for hissing and making strange noises when refrigerant is low so this made me a bit weary. I need to be 100% certain there is a leak there.

Turned the car on and off a few times with and without the fan running. I also listened again to the sound of 134a escaping an orifice and it is very distinct.

I also placed the microphone close to the expansion valve from the engine compartment no sound. Then tried to use the cheap refrigerant sniffer from amazon by the water drain hose since refrigerant travels downwards, Got no beeping from the device.


The only thing out of place here is that I was able to remove the evaporator water drain and flashed an UV light into it. No traces of dye can be found. Not sure why. I would think the dye would be there if the evaporator was leaking refrigerant. Maybe its long gone ?

despite that last bit I conclude the evidence is strong enough the sound is most likely caused by refrigerant escaping the evaporator core. The dash needs to come off. Damn
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      07-23-2019, 07:51 PM   #74
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Sorry to hear that, but I guess at least you now know what you're up against. Sounds like a major pain.
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      07-30-2019, 12:23 AM   #75
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Yup just need to get organized.

picked this up the other day.



[IMG]
View post on imgur.com
[/IMG]

they gave me the entire evap, and heater core for 80 bucks
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      08-09-2019, 11:39 PM   #76
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Here is a pic of the evaporator location on f10 in case anyone wants to spray clean it. it is possible.



Pulled vacuum on the evaporator and let it sit over night.

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      08-13-2019, 10:33 AM   #77
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Great write-up. You have another follower.

Good luck with the evaporator (I have heard of the pain).

Have you come across anything that is bad design by BMW and would need to be modified (like the fenders)?
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      08-13-2019, 05:01 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capmoq View Post
Great write-up. You have another follower.

Good luck with the evaporator (I have heard of the pain).

Have you come across anything that is bad design by BMW and would need to be modified (like the fenders)?
Thanks!

I think increased engine vibrations on the diesel could possibly cause the evaporator to fail.
I will know for sure once the evaporator is out if the leak is at a pipe junction vs at the fins themselves.

The FRM issue is very common. 1 series show electrical failures due to water getting into park sensors. (same sensors as f10) Insulating and waterproofing the entire front and rear of the car is not a bad idea at all.

Home depot has a liquid electrical tape that research proves is the most ideal. they also have a spray version of it (instead of brushing) but not sure how well it works.


The flex seal is not the ideal insulator. as it can eat the cables over time.

I would for sure waterproof everything on sight if the bumper ever comes off.



New evaporator holds vacuum for a day or two but not beyond that. This does not mean its leaking. Apparently contaminants can cause a system to lose vacuum.


will repeat the test but pulling vacuum for 30 min first.
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      08-19-2019, 09:23 AM   #79
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Got tired of pulling a vacuum on the evaporator, was getting inconclusive results.

So I filled it with 134a and it started leaking audibly.

Pulled the ac line connector from my 335d and hit it with a hammer to create a seal. Tried welding the aluminum with a blue plumbing torch but the solder would not melt sufficiently.

Lastly I resorted to jb weld on the seam. Might have to coat it additional times. but I am confident it should hold eventually.

Very hesitant to install the evaporator without testing it first.



I also swaped the glow plug module as the car has a vibration on idle. that might or might not be normal.

Also ordered m5 sway bar and new links. As the car has a single click sound when turning wheel and backing up or going forward.

Not ruled out would be the guibo joint as this is also known to go out and cause a vibration.
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      08-21-2019, 10:07 PM   #80
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Continuing progress
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      08-25-2019, 11:36 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Continuing progress

Yup!!




Installed M5 front sway bar today,



Had to fight a bit to get the bushings to line up, but the job is done. Steering is a bit improved. Not as much as I was sold it would be. We will see have not pushed the car enough.



Found both of the front control arm bushings to be cracked, passenger one was leaking hydrofluid as well. Since I am chasing a rough vibration on idle they have to be changed. Ordered the part from FCP euro for 20 bucks a piece



Have not tested the evaporator yet, I figured the ac can wait in this infernal weather. but the sway bar should be installed. Priorities in order.
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      08-26-2019, 11:16 AM   #82
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How's it drive now?
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      08-26-2019, 01:34 PM   #83
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How's it drive now?
There is less dip on the hood when cornering. it stays more level for sure.

I have sport suspension non adaptive. with 19 inch rims and non run flat tires. (stock size).

I assume the body roll I do get is more about the tires than anything else.

Not bad upgrade for around 130 the bar and 80 bucks 2 new links.

Would have been nice to get the competition package M5 sway bar but there where none available from junk yards.

It was kind of a must do upgrade for me since the car was in an accident and Im not sure if the links where in good condition.
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      08-27-2019, 01:41 PM   #84
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Thanks for the notes on your experience with the upgrade as well as parts pricing. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without any significant negative impact on ride quality.
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      09-04-2019, 04:19 PM   #85
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Quote:
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Thanks for the notes on your experience with the upgrade as well as parts pricing. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without any significant negative impact on ride quality.
Yup !!


I took the car to get the hood repainted a 3rd time last week because the paint had cracked and began the first stages of flaking off.

Shop assumed responsibility, I came back today to this.





I always check in the back of my head if I am just being impossible, I actually sent the pictures to another person to be double sure. The quality of the job is just unacceptable. Orange peel, debris stuck to the paint in various places, cracking at the corners and a dent on top of the hood, clear coat peeling off at places.


Sometimes shops have high turn around, miscommunication happens and what not.

and i try not being a dick whenever possible but I still paid top $ for the job.

where this a cheap car id let it go but not on a car like this.

SO I wasted my trip today and they don't want to touch the car until i come back tomorrow and tell them specifically what needs to be fixed.


Check out my new spoiler and difuser btw!! looks great ...while the car is parked at the shop.

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      09-08-2019, 09:46 PM   #86
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Got the car back. hood looks good.

Started doing tranny oil change when I found this.



Transmission mount way gone. Possible cause of my cold idle vibration.

Ordered a new febi one from rm european for 38 bucks shipped.

part number 22326777390

Fcp euro does not currently carry it.
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      09-11-2019, 09:08 PM   #87
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Did transmission oil change today.
Lots of metal shavings in the filter magnets. Oil looked like water...




Tried to replace front control arm links but it was not possible, the instructions for my car where incorrect. Did not forsee having to remove tires.




My wheel lock nut stripped, So Im taking it to discount tire and let them deal with it. Im guessing they have lug nut extractors.
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      09-13-2019, 03:56 AM   #88
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Geart job. I had rough idle at cold as well and had the same problem. Engine mounts were swapped and all good.

Changed the tranny fluid on mine as well. However, it was not OEM fluid - something else, I do not know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10 000 km later) I now have a problem with the tranny. When I do launches (car at sport+ and gearbox in sport mode) the gear shift is very rough (especially from second to third). It almost feels like the car jumps at gear shifts. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing has changed. I'm guessing the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). Also, after the launches the car shifts rough at Comfort+ mode for a few days. After that the roughness goes away. The gearbox is always adapts according to different drive styles and conditions.
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