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      06-07-2020, 08:35 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by BrowBMW View Post
Ok, my obdII port has sketchy connectivity or maybe it is the cable, I dunno but even after following ista working around losing connectivity, I don't have brakes. My clutch is back though. Taking it to an indy tomorrow for a flush so he can show me how to do this.
Oh man. Keep us posted bro. Hope everything gets worked out
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      06-07-2020, 08:37 PM   #68
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Such is car life.. it'll be fine. I was probably just doing something wrong.
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      06-08-2020, 12:04 PM   #69
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So I just called the indy cause i'm not exactly 100% comfortable taking this thing out on the road and they gave me some interesting tips:
I should expect to have to do this procedure multiple times in multiple ways after an almost complete gravity drain when replacing the lines - that's normal.
So essentially I have yet to bleed things enough.
The other thing he said was to use a vacuum pump at each corner without the power bleeder at least once to pull fluid down (obviously not letting the reservoir go dry).
And finally, and most interestingly enough, he starts at the rear right wheel and goes clockwise because that's the order of the wheels that are furthest from the DSC pump, and not the MC. The MC goes to the DSC then to the wheels, so he does it in that order. All interesting. So i'm going to get a hand vacuum pump and will be doing this again! Hopefully my wife still loves me after all my time in the garage over the last week. What a time consuming hobby.
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      06-08-2020, 12:19 PM   #70
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Dude, I tried the vacuum pump and it does not work! Granted, it was a Harbor Freight pump lol. But I did mine in the same order...passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front than drivers side. Let me ask you...how much total fluid did you drain? I did a complete 2 bottles
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      06-08-2020, 12:45 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Dude, I tried the vacuum pump and it does not work! Granted, it was a Harbor Freight pump lol. But I did mine in the same order...passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front than drivers side. Let me ask you...how much total fluid did you drain? I did a complete 2 bottles
LOL, noted I will not buy a harbor freight vacuum pump.

I only did like one liter.

His order would be RR, LR, FL, FR - a bit different.

Oh and by the way - fluid was running clean after doing a normal bleed without ISTA. Then I used ISTA and brown fluid came out! So ISTA definitely does a better job and get's to places a normal bleed can't.
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      06-08-2020, 04:07 PM   #72
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LOL, noted I will not buy a harbor freight vacuum pump.

I only did like one liter.

His order would be RR, LR, FL, FR - a bit different.

Oh and by the way - fluid was running clean after doing a normal bleed without ISTA. Then I used ISTA and brown fluid came out! So ISTA definitely does a better job and get's to places a normal bleed can't.
A labtop is needed tho ti perform that?
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      06-08-2020, 04:09 PM   #73
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Yea, among a few other things.
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      06-10-2020, 01:37 PM   #74
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Wow this company sucks, no one buy these brakes. Once they get set it'll be fine but fitment issues galore. Caliper rubbing on the hub like crazy, need to take some metal off the caliper to get clearance. You get what you pay for.

Also, on the brake bleed, it was a complete no go. I don't know what's going on. I chatted with another BMW Indy and he said any ista program you download of the internet is NOT what BMW uses and he claims it won't work to get a good flush. He has a pressurized machine and other software that will actually engage the DSC and ABS pumps properly and he'll get my pedal back. 105 bucks - I've spent that on dot 4 LV brake fluid already
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      06-10-2020, 05:01 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrowBMW View Post
Wow this company sucks, no one buy these brakes. Once they get set it'll be fine but fitment issues galore. Caliper rubbing on the hub like crazy, need to take some metal off the caliper to get clearance. You get what you pay for.

Also, on the brake bleed, it was a complete no go. I don't know what's going on. I chatted with another BMW Indy and he said any ista program you download of the internet is NOT what BMW uses and he claims it won't work to get a good flush. He has a pressurized machine and other software that will actually engage the DSC and ABS pumps properly and he'll get my pedal back. 105 bucks - I've spent that on dot 4 LV brake fluid already
I was skeptical when you posted those components given the price...but gave it the benefit of the doubt given there were members who vouched for it. I am thinking that the R1 Concepts E-Line may be the best bang for the buck, need to see if there are reviews on it here though. I ran Stoptech drilled rotors on my 335 but the price difference from stock to the upgraded ones for the F10 are far greater than that of the 335.
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      06-11-2020, 08:49 AM   #76
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Update:
After finally getting a bleed good enough to make it driveable I took it for a spin and found the issues mentioned above about the calipers grinding, however I got them working, but it wasn't without some major modifications lol... ya'll think I'm nuts but I was determined to make this work! See pics below.

I still need to take this into the indy because my pedal is soft but it's 100% driveable now and safe. I would imagine that I could not bleed the brakes because I couldn't get proper travel of the calipers with them rubbing like they were... or maybe not. I definitely couldn't brake well with them like that.

So to get them to work I took a grinder and took probably a 1/4 in off of the calipers and had to dig into the pads. It was nasty and I had to test fit about 30 times but finally got it to go. Once done grinding I re-did the paint and took it for a test drive and the thing brakes wonderfully (save the soft pedal I'm fixing today). But no rubbing, no squeaking and all is well.

Now I'm going to contact the seller for a partial refund. What a mess, but hey, that's ebay car life. One day I'll learn.

Here are some pics in chronological order:
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      06-12-2020, 12:57 PM   #77
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Just to keep both threads updated in case you aren't following the other one...

OK, just picked it up, thing stops on a dime, I can actually lock them up fairly easy and no more squeaky brakes! Mech didn't see a problem at all with what I did, besides the fact I orders parts for my BMW off of ebay... but I digress...
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      06-12-2020, 01:12 PM   #78
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Did you end up having to run ISTA?
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      06-13-2020, 07:51 AM   #79
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The mech did what ever he needed to do, 125 bucks. He has a machine and software.
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      06-15-2020, 12:54 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
okay been driving on these for a couple of days now. so far no problems. honestly i wouldn't be able to tell you if these are an improvement over OEM since i swapped out the rotors and new pads as well. i feel there's plenty of bite but i couldn't tell you if the stainless lines helped. i'm sure they're an improvement over the stock and it's probably helping overall with conjunction of the new rotors and pads. These were straight plug and play as they installed right back into factory bracket locations. they do look very nice from pure aesthetics which is a plus for me!






You'll probably be able to do longer hard braking without the typical swelling/bulging of the rubber line, and may expect to get better heat dissipation to reduce the chance of boiling the fluid. It is a more endurance-type mod than one for the feel considering BMW OEM lines aren't complete trash
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      06-15-2020, 05:52 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
okay been driving on these for a couple of days now. so far no problems. honestly i wouldn't be able to tell you if these are an improvement over OEM since i swapped out the rotors and new pads as well. i feel there's plenty of bite but i couldn't tell you if the stainless lines helped. i'm sure they're an improvement over the stock and it's probably helping overall with conjunction of the new rotors and pads. These were straight plug and play as they installed right back into factory bracket locations. they do look very nice from pure aesthetics which is a plus for me!





Heads up, I noticed that you're using 2 ton jack stands. The 535 curb weight is 4100something pounds. You need at least 2.5 ton jackstands. Be safe!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrowBMW View Post
Wow this company sucks, no one buy these brakes. Once they get set it'll be fine but fitment issues galore. Caliper rubbing on the hub like crazy, need to take some metal off the caliper to get clearance. You get what you pay for.

Also, on the brake bleed, it was a complete no go. I don't know what's going on. I chatted with another BMW Indy and he said any ista program you download of the internet is NOT what BMW uses and he claims it won't work to get a good flush. He has a pressurized machine and other software that will actually engage the DSC and ABS pumps properly and he'll get my pedal back. 105 bucks - I've spent that on dot 4 LV brake fluid already
ISTA is what the dealers and indys use, dunno what he's on about. Sounds like he was just making sure he got your business. Here's a nice up-to-date selection of all kinds of BMW software, including ISTA:

https://mega.nz/folder/0l5XkCja#hhmw...older/8ghmnIyT
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      06-16-2020, 03:28 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windowmaker View Post
You'll probably be able to do longer hard braking without the typical swelling/bulging of the rubber line, and may expect to get better heat dissipation to reduce the chance of boiling the fluid. It is a more endurance-type mod than one for the feel considering BMW OEM lines aren't complete trash
makes sense bro! thanks for the info


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Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
Heads up, I noticed that you're using 2 ton jack stands. The 535 curb weight is 4100something pounds. You need at least 2.5 ton jackstands. Be safe!
i have the 6 ton jacks in the front and 2 ton jacks for the rear. so i should be good. but thanks for the heads up!
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