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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics Engine, Transmission, Exhaust, Drivetrain, ECU Software Modifications Valve Cleaning
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      11-21-2018, 04:50 PM   #1
xxpanipuri
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Valve Cleaning

Anyone have any experience using this stuff to clean your valves...

my mechanic suggested this as a maintenance item

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...+valve+cleaner

gradually spray it into the opening where the MAF would be (disconnect maf and remove the MAF housing) and idle the car around 1500-2000 rpm.

shell blasting can also be done but i hear its highly labor intensive and can be pricey..

he also recommends changing the oil every 5k miles, which will also help minimize the carbon/gunk build up..which i do regardless....
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      11-22-2018, 11:14 AM   #2
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I'd recommend to you a new mechanic if he thinks ingesting liquid into the intake manifolds is going to clean the intake ports.

The only way to sufficiently clean carbon deposits from the ports is with physical interaction, IE a walnut blasting. This is cost of ownership item. All non-tu (no valvetronic) N63 will need it eventually.

Yes the drivetrain needs to be dropped out of the vehicle to carry out the service to any sort of standard. This is done rather easily with a drivetrain table, like the Gruse 1200.

If your mechanic doesn't have a drivetrain table see initial point.
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      11-25-2018, 10:41 PM   #3
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So is this only required on the non tu motors? Is it NOT required on the TU motors?
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      11-27-2018, 09:46 AM   #4
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TU engines, with valvetronic accumulate carbon in the ports at a level several orders of magnitude lower than the earlier non-tu variants.

I'm not saying it'll never be required, but I've pulled intake manifolds on N55's and N63tu's at 125k+ that have never been off before and the deposits were inconsequential.
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      11-27-2018, 12:55 PM   #5
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I agree with Stuck - you may need a new mechanic!
I use CRC one tank fuel treatment additive to help reduce the buildup but over time even this will not stop the carbon since the fuel doesnt rinse the back of the valves like the old tbi/port injection fuel systems
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      11-28-2018, 02:58 PM   #6
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Would help to drive at 3-4k RPM for 10-15 minute chunks to burn off some of the build up..
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      11-28-2018, 07:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addy27 View Post
Would help to drive at 3-4k RPM for 10-15 minute chunks to burn off some of the build up..
No, that would do absolutely nothing aside from get you 10-15 minutes down the road with higher fuel consumption.
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      11-30-2018, 09:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stück View Post
I'd recommend to you a new mechanic if he thinks ingesting liquid into the intake manifolds is going to clean the intake ports.

The only way to sufficiently clean carbon deposits from the ports is with physical interaction, IE a walnut blasting. This is cost of ownership item. All non-tu (no valvetronic) N63 will need it eventually.

Yes the drivetrain needs to be dropped out of the vehicle to carry out the service to any sort of standard. This is done rather easily with a drivetrain table, like the Gruse 1200.

If your mechanic doesn't have a drivetrain table see initial point.
Are you speaking from experience or just guessing? I'm wondering how you're confident that valve cleaner won't do anything?

Yeah I don't expect it to give the immediate results that walnut blasting would but the valve cleaner goes through the turbo, intercooler, and coats the valves and is intended to clean the system and soften the carbon deposits on the valves so they can steadily erode over time. I expect with a few treatments spead over the course of a few months it should have made some difference otherwise if it's worthless snake oil I'm wondering how it managed to stay in the shops this long.

I'm speculating a bit optimistically on my end based on the testimonials but am wondering if there's any counter evidence that shows this valve cleaner is just bs
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      11-30-2018, 11:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windowmaker View Post
Are you speaking from experience or just guessing? I'm wondering how you're confident that valve cleaner won't do anything?

Yeah I don't expect it to give the immediate results that walnut blasting would but the valve cleaner goes through the turbo, intercooler, and coats the valves and is intended to clean the system and soften the carbon deposits on the valves so they can steadily erode over time. I expect with a few treatments spead over the course of a few months it should have made some difference otherwise if it's worthless snake oil I'm wondering how it managed to stay in the shops this long.

I'm speculating a bit optimistically on my end based on the testimonials but am wondering if there's any counter evidence that shows this valve cleaner is just bs
Well...... Since the cleaner is added to the fuel and the fuel never touches the back side of the valve...

I have used Techron/B12/etc. to clean the injectors, but it will have no effect on the valves.
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      12-01-2018, 01:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
Well...... Since the cleaner is added to the fuel and the fuel never touches the back side of the valve...

I have used Techron/B12/etc. to clean the injectors, but it will have no effect on the valves.
Maybe I'm thinking something different:
http://www.crcforshops.com/#testresults

Valve cleaner gets sprayed in the PCV intake port, by disconnecting the connector. This goes down the intake pathway past the MAF sensor.

Last edited by windowmaker; 12-01-2018 at 01:17 AM..
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      12-01-2018, 02:46 AM   #11
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With multiple treatments this is a way more cost effective way to clean the valves. Walnut blasting may leave them shinier but I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference in terms of performance.

One drawback I've found reading the youtube comments is for other brands they advise taking other means to clean valves since the flaking carbon buildup may cause damage to the hot side of the turbo. I imagine this would only become an issue if you wait until the buildup has gotten really bad.
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      12-01-2018, 04:26 PM   #12
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That video was a waste of my time to even skip through, but here we are...

1. Those valves were hardly dirty by BMW standards.
2. There is no way to view the valves on a N63 without pulling the engine/intake manifold.
3. Deposits on BMW are typically so hard and thick that they require considerable effort to scrape away, solvent has little to no real effect on them and is only used to clean the port lead in where the walnuts don't touch which doesn't get buildup to begin with.

Dump as many cans of that into the engine you like if it makes you feel better. I would not want all the grime that builds up on the intake valves going through the engine, turbos and then into the catalysts.

Walnuts don't leave a shiny surface, they are a mild abrasive and matte the ports and backs of the valves.
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      12-02-2018, 03:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stück View Post
That video was a waste of my time to even skip through, but here we are...

1. Those valves were hardly dirty by BMW standards.
2. There is no way to view the valves on a N63 without pulling the engine/intake manifold.
3. Deposits on BMW are typically so hard and thick that they require considerable effort to scrape away, solvent has little to no real effect on them and is only used to clean the port lead in where the walnuts don't touch which doesn't get buildup to begin with.

Dump as many cans of that into the engine you like if it makes you feel better. I would not want all the grime that builds up on the intake valves going through the engine, turbos and then into the catalysts.

Walnuts don't leave a shiny surface, they are a mild abrasive and matte the ports and backs of the valves.
Haha such a troll. Yeah I'll be taking this approach for now since I see no need as of yet to do the walnut blasting. I'm still only seeing anecdotal accounts trying to claim this doesn't work for BMWs. Doesn't make sense to say this carbon buildup is "harder" than for other cars for which the cleaner works.

I've sprayed the CRC fluid in the PCV intake port and it clearly makes its way through the intake system to the valves since you hear the idle struggling and the exhaust emit white-ish smoke.

Yeah the video was too long for what it was and the forum embedded youtube window doesn't transmit the start time stamp of 9:30.

Gotta not be so butt hurt about it. Did you have to front the bill yourself at some point?
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      12-02-2018, 09:56 AM   #14
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I speak from actual real world experience, but I'm afraid I can be of no further assistance to one not willing to listen. Sorry.

Call me a troll because you want to dump solvent into your inlet tract and expect it to work....
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      12-03-2018, 02:03 AM   #15
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That's what I'm asking - what real world experience? You must have reasons to be biased against alternative cleaning methods to walnut blasting.
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      12-03-2018, 12:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stück View Post
I speak from actual real world experience, but I'm afraid I can be of no further assistance to one not willing to listen. Sorry.

Call me a troll because you want to dump solvent into your inlet tract and expect it to work....
Quote:
Originally Posted by windowmaker View Post
That's what I'm asking - what real world experience? You must have reasons to be biased against alternative cleaning methods to walnut blasting.
Literally his 1st sentence. IIRC, he is literally a BMW tech/mechanic so probably knows a thing or two.
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      12-03-2018, 03:35 PM   #17
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Thank you for your input, very much appreciated....

My Mechanic did recommend that i'm religious about changing the oil every 5-6k miles (which i've done previously in my e39 as well) as it will help minimize the gunk build up....to make sure i have fresh oil in there...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stück View Post
That video was a waste of my time to even skip through, but here we are...

1. Those valves were hardly dirty by BMW standards.
2. There is no way to view the valves on a N63 without pulling the engine/intake manifold.
3. Deposits on BMW are typically so hard and thick that they require considerable effort to scrape away, solvent has little to no real effect on them and is only used to clean the port lead in where the walnuts don't touch which doesn't get buildup to begin with.

Dump as many cans of that into the engine you like if it makes you feel better. I would not want all the grime that builds up on the intake valves going through the engine, turbos and then into the catalysts.

Walnuts don't leave a shiny surface, they are a mild abrasive and matte the ports and backs of the valves.
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      12-05-2018, 03:00 AM   #18
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Kind of funny how people think they say some things and don't realize they a word here and there, failing to make their point. Nobody said they were a technician in this thread and "real world experience" is as vague as can be when it comes to arrogant forum banter.

Still I'm not convinced from a technician's perspective since it's not their role to discover effectiveness of solvents against carbon deposits. They make a living off billable hours and have an inherent bias when it comes to giving advice.

I'm happy to hear if there's any actual point to be made against solvent cleaners.

LOL @
Quote:
Call me a troll because you want to dump solvent into your inlet tract and expect it to work....
^ No any reasoning or justification.. arrogant

If you're going to make replies like that you can avoid commenting altogether.

Quote:
Walnuts don't leave a shiny surface, they are a mild abrasive and matte the ports and backs of the valves.
LOL troll. Shiny is a figure of speech nobody expects walnut shells to act as a polish.
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      12-05-2018, 01:11 PM   #19
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This...

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      07-30-2019, 07:09 PM   #20
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I just finished the intake valve clean at 194k km, used crc one, there is a video on the n54.

There is a thin coating on cylinder 1,2,3 and its a bit thicker near the valve stem. Cylinder 4,5,6 were more dirty (I'll say twice), where 5 is the worst (stem size grew by 1x)

I'll say this soak and suck method works off about 70% of the gunk, I used a pick a bit, didn't bother use a copper brush to clean in detail. Walnut blast is best, but I cant complain about this result.

My engine is quieter and more responsive on low end (stock except filter). Keep in mind I did other stuff such as clean throttle, vanos solenoids, replace oil housing gaskets, belt/tensioner, coolant/oil change.

At this point, Im going get an oil catch can, and find a way to inject the cleaner past the MAP sensor (PCV intake???) I hate removing the intake manifold, those ecu cables piss me off.
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      07-30-2019, 11:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashpotato View Post
I just finished the intake valve clean at 194k km, used crc one, there is a video on the n54.

There is a thin coating on cylinder 1,2,3 and its a bit thicker near the valve stem. Cylinder 4,5,6 were more dirty (I'll say twice), where 5 is the worst (stem size grew by 1x)

I'll say this soak and suck method works off about 70% of the gunk, I used a pick a bit, didn't bother use a copper brush to clean in detail. Walnut blast is best, but I cant complain about this result.

My engine is quieter and more responsive on low end (stock except filter). Keep in mind I did other stuff such as clean throttle, vanos solenoids, replace oil housing gaskets, belt/tensioner, coolant/oil change.

At this point, Im going get an oil catch can, and find a way to inject the cleaner past the MAP sensor (PCV intake???) I hate removing the intake manifold, those ecu cables piss me off.
I don't think N55's need this or do they ?
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      07-31-2019, 12:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonobro View Post
I don't think N55's need this or do they ?
my SA recommended me to do this when I dropped my car off the other week for an oil change. they want $400 for the fuel injection service which he claims will get rid of all that carbon build up. I may do this just so I don't ef things up with over the counter products that claim it'll remove carbon build up
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