[David_Vasha]

I don't understand. You make you're own method of flushing the cooling system by adding and changing bits of my process and the you say you don't like this process (my process) at all. I mean idk what else to say. There advantages and disadvantages to each method. My viewpoint is that it makes flushing the coolant much easier and efficient given that you only need to worry about remove one hose into a bucket. Remove the lower Rad hose is in my opinion simply working harder for no reason. My coolant mix is properly mixed and the pump was never filling air nor being starved. I have had my my patience filled with BMWs simply flat out saying the wrong advice to people (such as well known "lifetime fluid" myth). I appreciate the skepticism u carry but damn my guy i don't appreciate someone telling me that my process is wrong when it has in fact done me wonders.

[David_Vasha]

In case anyone doesn't still understand. In my process you keep the engine running. This is so that the coolant warms up and thus the thermostat allows the coolant to pass through the entire system. The coolant will be pump through all passages in the system so that the engine won't overheat obviously. It makes no sense that some passages of coolant will have no flow given that the pump determines the flow speed of the coolant. This is why I encourage everyone to KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING. Coolant, no matter where it is in the cooling system must pass through the radiator in order to be cooled and recirculated, therefore there will be not be "parts of the cooling system not being flushed". The bleeding process in accesory mode is done in parts so that each section had air removed. Like I said, I handled the process in the fashion that I listed above and everything has went well. Perfect mixture of coolant and no pumps running dry.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

I don't understand. You make you're own method of flushing the cooling system by adding and changing bits of my process and the you say you don't like this process (my process) at all. I mean idk what else to say. There advantages and disadvantages to each method. My viewpoint is that it makes flushing the coolant much easier and efficient given that you only need to worry about remove one hose into a bucket. Remove the lower Rad hose is in my opinion simply working harder for no reason. My coolant mix is properly mixed and the pump was never filling air nor being starved. I have had my my patience filled with BMWs simply flat out saying the wrong advice to people (such as well known "lifetime fluid" myth). I appreciate the skepticism u carry but damn my guy i don't appreciate someone telling me that my process is wrong when it has in fact done me wonders.

I specifically said "So, I tried the bleeding method today" to differentiate between "your" process and the bleed version, so I'm not sure why you think I'm criticizing your method. Yes, I chose to post my findings in your thread, as it felt a better option than cluttering the forums with another DIY thread that literally only differs from yours by step number 4.

I never said your pump got starved, not sure why you brought that up. Nor did I ever say your process was wrong. You're being strangely defensive/possessive over nothing my dude.

[David_Vasha]

Like I said my guy, I appreciate your skepticism. But I don't understand your need to change things up. Lmao and there's nothing defensive or protective with my responses. I just don't want people to to get things mixed up with your process and my process.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

Like I said my guy, I appreciate your skepticism. But I don't understand your need to change things up. Lmao and there's nothing defensive or protective with my responses. I just don't want people to to get things mixed up with your process and my process.

As mentioned previously by Surly73, running the engine with the hood open might not generate a large enough of a thermal load for the thermostat to open up. The bleed process almost certainly will. Hence why I chose to use the bleed process for the whole thing.

You sounded very defensive in your initial response :shrug:

[David_Vasha]

Running the engine will create enough heat given that the car will idle and heat up to operating temperature. I started flushing mine when the car was at operating temperature

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

Running the engine will create enough heat given that the car will idle and heat up to operating temperature. I started flushing mine when the car was at operating temperature

Opening the hood lets a TON of heat just radiate away passively.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Opening the hood lets a TON of heat just radiate away passively.

Keeping the good open does not affect the engine operating temp and the cooling system when idling. Yes the surrounding hot air in the engine bay will escape, but the inner components of the remain at hot enough temperatures to allow the whole cooling system to run its course/flow. The pump runs the coolant as long as the thermostat is open (after warming up). The only difference that temperatures internally/externally will make is the speed of which the coolant pump moves the coolant in the system. Leaving the hood open doesn't affect much but the temperature of the air around the engine. If it bothers you that bad you can just snake the coolant breather hose outside of the hood and then close it as much as possible to still keep some hot air in the engine bay.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

Keeping the good open does not affect the engine operating temp and the cooling system when idling. Yes the surrounding hot air in the engine bay will escape, but the inner components of the remain at hot enough temperatures to allow the whole cooling system to run its course/flow. The pump runs the coolant as long as the thermostat is open (after warming up). The only difference that temperatures internally/externally will make is the speed of which the coolant pump moves the coolant in the system. Leaving the hood open doesn't affect much but the temperature of the air around the engine. If it bothers you that bad you can just snake the coolant breather hose outside of the hood and then close it as much as possible to still keep some hot air in the engine bay.

The engine is essentially a giant block of aluminum. Aluminum is quite a good conductor of heat, meaning it can actually transfer the heat the engine generates out of the central areas and into the surrounding air pretty quickly. The pump is always circulating the coolant, it's not dependent on the thermostat being open. Meaning besides the innate conductivity of the metal, the coolant itself is also bringing that heat out of the central parts of the engine and into contact with the cooler parts of the engine.

Not sure how you expect people to be able to add distilled water to the system and monitor coolant level with the hood closed most of the way, but ok.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by Unspec

The engine is essentially a giant block of aluminum. Aluminum is quite a good conductor of heat, meaning it can actually transfer the heat the engine generates out of the central areas and into the surrounding air pretty quickly. The pump is always circulating the coolant, it's not dependent on the thermostat being open. Meaning besides the innate conductivity of the metal, the coolant itself is also bringing that heat out of the central parts of the engine and into contact with the cooler parts of the engine.

Not sure how you expect people to be able to add distilled water to the system and monitor coolant level with the hood closed most of the way, but ok.

I mean the hood being closed is only a suggestion for someone who carries the same mindset as you. I don't think it's efficient at all either that's why I didn't include it in my process. We can continue arguing ab this or agree to disagree.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

Keeping the good open does not affect the engine operating temp and the cooling system when idling. Yes the surrounding hot air in the engine bay will escape, but the inner components of the remain at hot enough temperatures to allow the whole cooling system to run its course/flow.

Actually, I've found the opposite. Every 4 or 6 cylinder engine I've owned (which have been aluminum head or all-aluminum) makes too little heat while idling to even open the stat with the hood open. Too much heat shed to the environment. Just making observation, not debating the process.

[bensk987]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

After countless research on the topic with not much to show, I decided to pull the trigger and get this DIY done. I've got to say, after doing it through this method I can finally say that I got 100% of my old antifreeze out of the system. The reason I can confirm this is because whoever had the car before me put green coolant! Which we all know is a big no no.

USEFUL INFO: The N55 model engine uses 10 liters of coolant.

Furthermore, the tools you will need;

- [ ] Common sense (very vital here)
- [ ] A hose that is long enough to reach the vent hose all the way to your designated bucket
- [ ] 6 or 7 gallons of distilled water
- [ ] 2 gallons of OEM BMW non-diluted antifreeze
- [ ] A bucket(s)
- [ ] A couple of rags or towels

Essentially how the cooling system works is that it is circulated (obviously). The vent hose that connects to the reservoir is basically the return line in this case. The coolant passes through the entire system and returns to the reservoir through this single hose.


1. Release the vent hose from the coolant reservoir by prying the metal clip up with a small flathead. Then remove the hose by gently pressing it off the nipple of the reservoir.
2. Now get your hose, preferably a clear one to monitor the fluid coming out, and find a way to get the vent hose and the hose you're using to connect securely so that coolant doesn't leak out. The best way to do this is to have a hose with a wider diameter than the vent hose. Mine wasn't larger in diameter so I used tape and wrapped it in a microfiber towel to control any leaks. This worked well too.
3. With the cap off the reservoir, get in the car and turn the heat to max with the lowest fan speed. Also turn off The AUTO, AC, and other functions.
4. Start the car.
5. While the car is running you want to make sure the reservoir doesn't run empty and keep it filled with distilled water at all times
6. Monitor the fluid coming out of the hose. You will know that all of the old coolant is gone when the fluid in the hose runs clear.
7. With the car still on and running fill the car with the BMW coolant. You don't need to dilute it because the system is full of distilled water, this mixing with it in the system. My logic was that since the car uses 10 liters of coolant, and I filled the car with distilled water entirely, it's safe to say I would need to put in 5 liters of BMW coolant. If you feel that this method is faulty, just monitor the fluid that comes and make sure the mix is how you like it.
8. By the end of this, you should see the blue BMW coolant mix coming out. At this point you can shut the car off and insert the vent hose back into the reservoir tank.
9. This step isn't necessary in my opinion, but just to make sure there are no air pockets in the system, I run the BMW coolant bleed procedure which is basically having the car in accessory mode and holding down the gas pedal for approximately 10 seconds. You know it's working when the vent hose has coolant coming out of it. The reason I say this isn't really necessary is because you never really introduce any air into the cooling system like a typical fluid drain and refill situation would. As long as you keep the coolant reservoir filled you should be fine and dandy.

With that said, always be care not to overheat your engine when doing this. If it does, something is wrong. Yours shouldn't overheat in this procedure as long as it is filled with liquid. That is your priority.

Hi David,

Thanks for this post, it really helped. I just finished doing a flush and filled with new coolant today. It was very straight forward.

Just to offer my feedback to help the next person I bought 1 metre of 25mm (sorry from Australia only know metric..) ID clear hose and stretched the end a bit using an old coil and boiling water. If fit nicely over the return hose. I clamped the hose and one thing I found useful was to plug the outlet where the hose was taken off from. This just stops any liquid running out over the engine.

I pretty much followed your instructions except I flushed it with 10l of demineralised water and then filled it with 10 l of mixed coolant. I found that after about 2 litres the water that was running out of the hose was starting to turn blue so it probably makes sense to just fill 5l of coolant concentrate into the system and reconnect the hose after that is done.

I did go through the bleeding process but the level didn't drop at all so I think this confirms that this process doesn't allow much air to enter the system.

Thanks for a good share

Ben

[iQuick]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

After countless research on the topic with not much to show, I decided to pull the trigger and get this DIY done. I've got to say, after doing it through this method I can finally say that I got 100% of my old antifreeze out of the system. The reason I can confirm this is because whoever had the car before me put green coolant! Which we all know is a big no no.

USEFUL INFO: The N55 model engine uses 10 liters of coolant.

Furthermore, the tools you will need;

- [ ] Common sense (very vital here)
- [ ] A hose that is long enough to reach the vent hose all the way to your designated bucket
- [ ] 6 or 7 gallons of distilled water
- [ ] 2 gallons of OEM BMW non-diluted antifreeze
- [ ] A bucket(s)
- [ ] A couple of rags or towels

Essentially how the cooling system works is that it is circulated (obviously). The vent hose that connects to the reservoir is basically the return line in this case. The coolant passes through the entire system and returns to the reservoir through this single hose.


1. Release the vent hose from the coolant reservoir by prying the metal clip up with a small flathead. Then remove the hose by gently pressing it off the nipple of the reservoir.
2. Now get your hose, preferably a clear one to monitor the fluid coming out, and find a way to get the vent hose and the hose you're using to connect securely so that coolant doesn't leak out. The best way to do this is to have a hose with a wider diameter than the vent hose. Mine wasn't larger in diameter so I used tape and wrapped it in a microfiber towel to control any leaks. This worked well too.
3. With the cap off the reservoir, get in the car and turn the heat to max with the lowest fan speed. Also turn off The AUTO, AC, and other functions.
4. Start the car.
5. While the car is running you want to make sure the reservoir doesn't run empty and keep it filled with distilled water at all times
6. Monitor the fluid coming out of the hose. You will know that all of the old coolant is gone when the fluid in the hose runs clear.
7. With the car still on and running fill the car with the BMW coolant. You don't need to dilute it because the system is full of distilled water, this mixing with it in the system. My logic was that since the car uses 10 liters of coolant, and I filled the car with distilled water entirely, it's safe to say I would need to put in 5 liters of BMW coolant. If you feel that this method is faulty, just monitor the fluid that comes and make sure the mix is how you like it.
8. By the end of this, you should see the blue BMW coolant mix coming out. At this point you can shut the car off and insert the vent hose back into the reservoir tank.
9. This step isn't necessary in my opinion, but just to make sure there are no air pockets in the system, I run the BMW coolant bleed procedure which is basically having the car in accessory mode and holding down the gas pedal for approximately 10 seconds. You know it's working when the vent hose has coolant coming out of it. The reason I say this isn't really necessary is because you never really introduce any air into the cooling system like a typical fluid drain and refill situation would. As long as you keep the coolant reservoir filled you should be fine and dandy.

With that said, always be care not to overheat your engine when doing this. If it does, something is wrong. Yours shouldn't overheat in this procedure as long as it is filled with liquid. That is your priority.

Hello David,

Thank you for putting this innovative coolant flush tutorial together. I too was in the same boat as you with not being able to find simple way to do a full DIY Flush and bleed. My vehicle however is the 1 Series 2013 E82 N55 135i Auto.

I have a few questions about your process if you could shed some insight.


Question 1A:

I am wondering, at step 4, when you start the car, does it make sense to aim the clear hose back into the open reservoir to keep the coolant cycle going until the vehicle has reached its stabilized operating temp (95c-108c) and ONLY THEN can you be 100% sure the thermostat and thus all passageways are open in order to continue with a full flush of complete coolant system including engin block?


OR

Question 1B:
Will flushing into a bucket right off the bat with my vehicle engine starting up cold while using 10L (2.64 gallons) of room temp De-ionized water constantly poured into the open reservoir, be good enough to open the thermostat and all passage ways in the cooling system and engine block for a FULL flush before all 10L (2.6 gallons) of De-ionized water is used up and the plastic hose shows a clear flow?


You mention in this discussion to Unspec "The pump runs the coolant as long as the thermostat is open (after warming up)"

How long does this warm up phase take?

Do you allow for a warming up phase by cycling the coolant in the system as per my question 1A BEFORE draining into a bucket?

At what point in your tutorial do you do your warming up phase?

At what point are you sure that the thermostat is open? Is there a way to know for sure?

Is this warm up phase, you speak about, which you say opens the thermostat while flushing from a cold engine using fresh ROOM TEMP de-ionised water quick enough to do a full flush with 10L (2.6 gallons) of water?

Or do you need to keep flushing with up to as much as 22L to 26L (6/7 gallons) of water before it warms up sufficiently enough to open the thermostat and thus complete the full coolant system flush and ONLY then it starts to go clear in the hose?

You said - "The N55 model engine uses 10 liters of coolant."

10 Litres of coolant being 50/50 mix I assume. So I would assume pumping 10L (2.6 gallons) through the system would mean you will get roughly 10L of the old fluids out and therefore pumping in 5L (1.3 gallons) on pure coolant in after this 10L would be accurate for a 50/50 mix.

With the above in mind and knowing the N55 can only take 10L of 50/50 mix why are you saying we need:

- [ ] 6 or 7 gallons of distilled water (22L - 26L)
- [ ] 2 gallons of OEM BMW non-diluted antifreeze (7.57L)

Surely only 5L (1.3 gallons) of non-diluted antifreeze goes in at the end of the flush ?

I will wait for some clarity before I attempt your process (with the engine running)

Thank you for taking the time,

Michael

[iQuick]

Originally Posted by bensk987

Hi David,

Thanks for this post, it really helped. I just finished doing a flush and filled with new coolant today. It was very straight forward.

Just to offer my feedback to help the next person I bought 1 metre of 25mm (sorry from Australia only know metric..) ID clear hose and stretched the end a bit using an old coil and boiling water. If fit nicely over the return hose. I clamped the hose and one thing I found useful was to plug the outlet where the hose was taken off from. This just stops any liquid running out over the engine.

I pretty much followed your instructions except I flushed it with 10l of demineralised water and then filled it with 10 l of mixed coolant. I found that after about 2 litres the water that was running out of the hose was starting to turn blue so it probably makes sense to just fill 5l of coolant concentrate into the system and reconnect the hose after that is done.

I did go through the bleeding process but the level didn't drop at all so I think this confirms that this process doesn't allow much air to enter the system.

Thanks for a good share

Ben

Hello Ben,

I have asked David a few questions and while I wait for his reply I thought I would ask you a few.

Did you do the process with the engine running?

Did you start the flushing procedure immediately from a cold engine or did you wait for the engine to warm up so as to induce the thermostat to open.

You mentioned "I found that after about 2 litres the water that was running out of the hose was starting to turn blue"

Does that mean you flushed out +- 3 litres of 50/50 mix before you finished the process ? how did work out your final concentration ratio?

Thank you,

Michael

[iQuick]

Originally Posted by Surly73

I like that common sense is on the list of required items

A weakness that I see in this process is the fluid in the radiator loop. The coolant system isn't a single loop, there are branches all over the place and one of these is the entire radiator. The thermostat needs to be open to ensure you've got proper flow here.

With every inline 6 BMW I've worked on, (M52, M52TU, M54, N52, N55) I have found that even in the summer heat when it's just idling and I have the hood up it sheds enough heat to the environment that the thermostat doesn't even necessarily open. (stop and go traffic in the blazing sun with the AC on is a different environment than idling in the shade in my garage with everything off and the hood open). On the N series engines with electric water pump, if the weather is cool the pump might not even run!

So - I can't conclude your method won't work or anything like that, but it would be a serious reservation on my part. Now - I would assume that the fancy-pants BMW bleed program would force the thermostat open. I wonder if your method would work better if you just connected a charger/power supply and used the bleed program to circulate instead of running the engine? Less risk of burns etc... too.

Related - for a couple of decades I've always tried to change fluids more often than manufacturer recommended. Often with fluids anywhere in the driveline (brakes, transmission, clutch, steering) I can observe improvements in the system after changing the fluid even when I do it "too often". One advantage of doing this is that one doesn't need to feel desperate to get ALL of the old fluid out. When I use a turkey baster to extract and replace all of the power steering fluid once per year or every other oil change or whatever, I don't need to get all stressed about removing every drop of it. What was left in the system is still "good enough" and will blend with the fresh fluid. Same for coolant, transmission, you name it. Taking this approach often means it's an easier job to do (e.g. turkey baster power steering reservoir and then refill instead of pulling banjo bolts at the rack to get every drop out)

Now - you found what appeared to be incorrect fluid so what I just said doesn't apply

Thank you for devising and posting and innovative way of performing this job, which BMW really made a PITA on the F10 by eliminating some drains and requiring a vacuum apparatus to refill.

Hello Surly73,

Did you ever try this method of coolant flushing that David put together or a variation of it?

I am also wondering if the BMW bleed program would do the same job but better?

Or if not as per Unspec's trial of it then a hybrid version of the two ?

Michael

[Surly73]

Last November I did my OFHG and most of the coolant got changed as part of that job. I purchased a vacuum filling apparatus from ECS I believe it was. I'm pretty sure I have an OFHG post around here somewhere and I briefly cover it. I was never even tempted to do a "flush" - too many ways to get the coolant mixture out of whack.

My goal was drain and replace as much volume as I could reasonably do. If you don't get "behind" on coolant changes, it's not even super critical that you obsess over getting as much as possible out as it is all "fresh enough".

1/ Although it was $80-$90 and I would have preferred not to be required to buy the vacuum filling apparatus, boy was it slick. Ten seconds on shop air to draw a vacuum, however long you want as a leak test (nice to know all of your fittings are secure as part of the job), and something like 5 seconds to draw all of the replacement coolant back in.

No bubbles, no burping, no top ups for the next week, no guessing. Combined with the built in bleed program it was, simply, the best coolant fill and bleed process I've ever done.

Now that I have it, I'm planning to use the vacuum gear on any car I do coolant on, not just cars which require it.

2/ If I recall past learning properly, the water pump is never supposed to be exposed to air. Use caution that the pump always has some coolant in it while going through these processes and DEFINITELY do not let it run dry.

*** I do not recall if 100% water is bad for it either because of lack of "lubrication" of the pump seals. Water is better than dry, but it may actually need coolant mix if it is being asked to run. I'm sure someone else will chime in or google would be able to answer the question.

3/ Again, combined with the vacuum filling apparatus, I think the bleed program does it all. I think I ran it twice while connected to a beefy battery charger just to be sure. There was no change in expansion tank level before or after the second run, only the first, implying that one run would have done it all.

[David_Vasha]

Originally Posted by iQuick

Hello Surly73,

Did you ever try this method of coolant flushing that David put together or a variation of it?

I am also wondering if the BMW bleed program would do the same job but better?

Or if not as per Unspec's trial of it then a hybrid version of the two ?

Michael

Sorry for the late response. I'm no longer on the forums as much because my engine spun a rod bearing and seized. Had to sell it as is. Regarding your question. I really can't remember the specific details because it was so long ago. I believe that if you want to be 100% sure of all coolant passageways being circulated, I simply turn the car on with the hood closed and let it idle until it reaches operating temperature (I know the temperature gauge measures oil but the process still applies here). After it reaches operating temperature I would turn off the car. Now you can open hood and get the hose apparatus and bucket ready so that coolant can drain into the bucket. This means taking off the bleeder hose and connecting a hose to it into a bucket to drain out. I would then open the reservoir. Start the car and watch the coolant drain out. You will want to monitor the coolant level and begin filling up with distilled water only. For me this took some time until my hose going into the bucket turned clear. Once you start seeing clear, go ahead and pour in your coolant concentrate. Pour until the water coming out of the hose is looking blue. That's when I would stop the car and close everything back and and top off with 50/50 accordingly to make sure the level is correct. Then just to make sure. I would restart the engine and let it idle with the hood closed. After around 5 minutes or so I would check the level and check the coolant with a gauge that tells you what temperature it protects up to.

Hope this helps.

You could also just do the same process without turning the engine on. Just engage the bleeding procedure and see what comes out and how much. I can't guarantee you'll get a perfect flush but most of the old will be out. My bleeding process went around 20 minutes when I tried it.

[iQuick]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

Sorry for the late response. I'm no longer on the forums as much because my engine spun a rod bearing and seized. Had to sell it as is. Regarding your question. I really can't remember the specific details because it was so long ago. I believe that if you want to be 100% sure of all coolant passageways being circulated, I simply turn the car on with the hood closed and let it idle until it reaches operating temperature (I know the temperature gauge measures oil but the process still applies here). After it reaches operating temperature I would turn off the car. Now you can open hood and get the hose apparatus and bucket ready so that coolant can drain into the bucket. This means taking off the bleeder hose and connecting a hose to it into a bucket to drain out. I would then open the reservoir. Start the car and watch the coolant drain out. You will want to monitor the coolant level and begin filling up with distilled water only. For me this took some time until my hose going into the bucket turned clear. Once you start seeing clear, go ahead and pour in your coolant concentrate. Pour until the water coming out of the hose is looking blue. That's when I would stop the car and close everything back and and top off with 50/50 accordingly to make sure the level is correct. Then just to make sure. I would restart the engine and let it idle with the hood closed. After around 5 minutes or so I would check the level and check the coolant with a gauge that tells you what temperature it protects up to.

Hope this helps.

You could also just do the same process without turning the engine on. Just engage the bleeding procedure and see what comes out and how much. I can't guarantee you'll get a perfect flush but most of the old will be out. My bleeding process went around 20 minutes when I tried it.

Thanks for getting back to me.

1. I am worried about taking off bleeder hose when the vehicle warmed up, Is it not under pressure? Will it not be dangerous ?

Operating temp for my vehicle is around 100c for the oil. and around the same for the water temp (which I can access and view via the "secret Menu")

Just need some clarity on your warm up phase...

[David_Vasha]

iQuick, it was not under pressure. Use gloves if need be. If it was under pressure anyway, it wouldn't be after a few seconds of turning off. Excess coolant in the hose would run into the coolant reservoir. It is very easy to maneuver and take off. Just press the clip upwards and when you slide it off the reservoir nipple, pull the hose slightly up just to be safe and go not let any coolant get out.

Chances are some coolant will be spilling out in this process and that's ok. When you connect a hose to the bleeder hose, make sure it is a hood and water tight figment. Or you'll be having some leaving out. When I connected mine, I fit the extensions hose over the bleeder hose and also wrapped it in some high temp tape. Not only that but I also wrapped a couple towels around the connection in case anything was to leak.

[iQuick]

Originally Posted by David_Vasha

iQuick, it was not under pressure. Use gloves if need be. If it was under pressure anyway, it wouldn't be after a few seconds of turning off. Excess coolant in the hose would run into the coolant reservoir. It is very easy to maneuver and take off. Just press the clip upwards and when you slide it off the reservoir nipple, pull the hose slightly up just to be safe and go not let any coolant get out.

Chances are some coolant will be spilling out in this process and that's ok. When you connect a hose to the bleeder hose, make sure it is a hood and water tight figment. Or you'll be having some leaving out. When I connected mine, I fit the extensions hose over the bleeder hose and also wrapped it in some high temp tape. Not only that but I also wrapped a couple towels around the connection in case anything was to leak.

send you a DM

[Paramedic Jack]

I experienced a problem with my 2013 BMW 535i X-Drive after a mechanic incorrectly added pink antifreeze. The next day, my engine oil overheated, and a coolant alarm activated. Returning to the mechanic, he incorrectly claimed the water pump was at fault, but I knew this wasn't true since I had checked the system myself. Realizing the issue was the wrong antifreeze, I researched trying to figured out how to drain my car's closed cooling system. After watching numerous YouTube videos I found that this post was the easiest and best way. It safe to say it was easy to understand and worked perfectly
Here are some tips that worked for me:
- I had my son in the car to switch it off when the return valve changed color, allowing me to continue -working without interruption.
- I mix 2 liters (of antifreeze) with water and 3 liters of straight antifreeze. I added the 3 Liter of straight antifreeze first( after the water turned clear.
- It took about 7 gallons to completely drain the system.
- I used a basic storage container from Walmart to collect the fluid.
- A plastic hookah hose from a smoke shop served perfectly as a vent hose extension.(cost is about a dollar.)The short end fits perfectly into the vent hose

Ps Thanks @David_Vasha, the post is better than anything on YouTube