[Kmmitchct]

2011 535i xDrive 83,000 miles


Engine clicking. Took it into the Dealership. Say engine is done. Quoting me at 29k for a new engine. Asked about used and stated not worth it given my car value.

Asked them to provide me a value for a trade in and indicated they would of given me 11.5k with a working engine but can only give me 1k since they can’t sell at auction without an engine.

So admittedly I am uneducated in this area but several things above feel like bull. Coming here hoping to get some advice.

1. 29k seems extreme. I have been reading on here and seeing quotes for 4-24k. What am I missing? 29k is with labor and they are saying it takes a week. This is a crazy quote right? Why am I seeing such wide ranges of estimates? What would effect this?

2. Can I replace with a used engine where it would be worthwhile? If my car value is 11k with engine but 1k without (more on that below) then if I could get a 4K used engine installed it sure seems worth it. Right? Is that possible?

3. Are they low balling me with a 1k trade in value for a 2011 535i xDrive with a non working engine? Seems like the rest of the car would be worth more than 1k. Can’t find a place to get a value with no engine.

Amy advice you all can give is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[M_Bimmer]

So for $29K you can get another, newer, lower mileage F10....100% complete.

But if you love your current 2011 so much, then a new short block from BMW will be $15K w/o labor...but even with +$2K for labor, you're still under $20K, so $29K sounds like a $10K ripoff.....

On the other hand, assuming the "clicking" is a spun main bearing, the engine block with new pistons, rods, and crankshaft from BMW is $5000.....and $2K for install would be $7000...pretty reasonable....

And if you wanted to be a bit more thrifty, then replacement of a crankshaft and main bearings, done w/o removing the engine should be $4000.

Unless the engine is completely hosed, BMW has parts to repair an engine, so there is no good reason to replace the whole thing for $29K.....BUT, I'd be at the dealer wanting a full assessment, in writing, that proves a $29K bill is justified.

Also, if your car is running, the dealer would get more than $1000 at auction...look at some auction sites...

SO, you have several options, but one thing is, you should not be using the dealer that quoted you $29K....pay the tow, and get a 2nd opinion...and for a 9 year old car, the dealer should really be a last resort for an out of warranty repair.

Depending on your situation, this would be a great project car, but you can also source a complete engine from an auto recycler, or and engine rebuilder, or sell the car yourself to someone that can fix the car...you'll get more than $1000 for it regardless.

For your 9 year old car, even if the interior is excellent, I'd source a used engine (with a warranty) for $1200 (has everything on it - belts, etc), and have someone swap it for $700'ish...there is a risk in this option, but the lowest cost option would be the best in you case...reason? Buying an new engine that would outlast the rest of your car, is just throwing money away.

[Note] Dollar values above are for reference only, and are not real "quotes"

[HotSpicyChicken90]

yeah

M_Bimmer said everything

[Kmmitchct]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

So for $29K you can get another, newer, lower mileage F10....100% complete.

But if you love your current 2011 so much, then a new short block from BMW will be $15K w/o labor...but even with +$2K for labor, you're still under $20K, so $29K sounds like a $10K ripoff.....

On the other hand, assuming the "clicking" is a spun main bearing, the engine block with new pistons, rods, and crankshaft from BMW is $5000.....and $2K for install would be $7000...pretty reasonable....

And if you wanted to be a bit more thrifty, then replacement of a crankshaft and main bearings, done w/o removing the engine should be $4000.

Unless the engine is completely hosed, BMW has parts to repair an engine, so there is no good reason to replace the whole thing for $29K.....BUT, I'd be at the dealer wanting a full assessment, in writing, that proves a $29K bill is justified.

Also, if your car is running, the dealer would get more than $1000 at auction...look at some auction sites...

SO, you have several options, but one thing is, you should not be using the dealer that quoted you $29K....pay the tow, and get a 2nd opinion...and for a 9 year old car, the dealer should really be a last resort for an out of warranty repair.

Depending on your situation, this would be a great project car, but you can also source a complete engine from an auto recycler, or and engine rebuilder, or sell the car yourself to someone that can fix the car...you'll get more than $1000 for it regardless.

For your 9 year old car, even if the interior is excellent, I'd source a used engine (with a warranty) for $1200 (has everything on it - belts, etc), and have someone swap it for $700'ish...there is a risk in this option, but the lowest cost option would be the best in you case...reason? Buying an new engine that would outlast the rest of your car, is just throwing money away.

[Note] Dollar values above are for reference only, and are not real "quotes"

First of all...THANK YOU very much. This is exactly the type of info I was looking for re options. And your post is also helpful in further understanding my dealership is way over charging and to run the other way Appreciate you taking the time to spell it out for me.

More info on the specific issue with the engine and the explanation I received from the dealer. They are saying the rod bearings are very worn down causing the clicking noise and are about to break or seize up and as a result the engine needs to completely be replaced. Does that change any of the answers above? I would assume not and sourcing a used engine to get it running again would still be a primary option. Will take it to a private BMW mechanic to explore that option. Seems like putting 2-3k in it to maintain the value for resale or to simply extend the life of the car for my own use is the right way to go. Or if I decide to go with a new BMW at a minimum it sounds like even ‘as is’ I should be able to sell the car, as you mentioned, to someone who may want to fix it / use it for a project for more than the quoted dealer 1k trade in. Any advice on where to start to try to find a buyer? Been 9 years since I sold a car and imagine I am looking for a specific type of buyer as a result of the engine issues.

[OnlyGerman]

I'll buy it for 1k obviously the dealer quote is stupid. Only logical option is find used and let Indy install. But is it worth a near 10k repair to you? why do all the 2011 have engine failures, very strange??

[Kmmitchct]

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

I'll buy it for 1k obviously the dealer quote is stupid. Only logical option is find used and let Indy install. But is it worth a near 10k repair to you? why do all the 2011 have engine failures, very strange??

Have an Indy appointment for 2 fridays from now (they must be busy given the outrageous dealer prices ha). If the price ends up being 10k then right with an 11k value it wouldn’t be worth the work. Better to just sell as is for better than the 1k trade in offer of course

[philipm785]

I'm no mechanic, but isn't it possible to fix rod bearing issues without an entirely new engine?

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Kmmitchct

2011 535i xDrive 83,000 miles


Engine clicking. Took it into the Dealership. Say engine is done. Quoting me at 29k for a new engine. Asked about used and stated not worth it given my car value.

Asked them to provide me a value for a trade in and indicated they would of given me 11.5k with a working engine but can only give me 1k since they can’t sell at auction without an engine.

So admittedly I am uneducated in this area but several things above feel like bull. Coming here hoping to get some advice.

1. 29k seems extreme. I have been reading on here and seeing quotes for 4-24k. What am I missing? 29k is with labor and they are saying it takes a week. This is a crazy quote right? Why am I seeing such wide ranges of estimates? What would effect this?

2. Can I replace with a used engine where it would be worthwhile? If my car value is 11k with engine but 1k without (more on that below) then if I could get a 4K used engine installed it sure seems worth it. Right? Is that possible?

3. Are they low balling me with a 1k trade in value for a 2011 535i xDrive with a non working engine? Seems like the rest of the car would be worth more than 1k. Can’t find a place to get a value with no engine.

Amy advice you all can give is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Did you do the oil filter housing gasket recently? Some shops do not do the proper oil priming procedure or get dirt into the oil passage causing the engine to seize.

Originally Posted by OnlyGerman

I'll buy it for 1k obviously the dealer quote is stupid. Only logical option is find used and let Indy install. But is it worth a near 10k repair to you? why do all the 2011 have engine failures, very strange??

I would not say that the 2011 engines are junk. It could be that the early 535i cars are now sub 10k and the people who buy them take them to a junk mechanic or just do not take care of them like the first or seconds owners.

[Snakle535i]

Early 535i's had the N54 engine LCI were all N55

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Snakle535i

Early 535i's had the N54 engine LCI were all N55

uh. no.

That's the E90 335i that got some of each, I believe.

Early F10 535i did get PWG instead of EWG, but I believe the cutover to EWG happened late pre-LCI too.

I'm pretty interested in the spike in 2011 stories. Especially where OFHG is not related, I have that coming up too.

[OnlyGerman]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Did you do the oil filter housing gasket recently? Some shops do not do the proper oil priming procedure or get dirt into the oil passage causing the engine to seize.

I would not say that the 2011 engines are junk. It could be that the early 535i cars are now sub 10k and the people who buy them take them to a junk mechanic or just do not take care of them like the first or seconds owners.

Most issues we see on this forum from 535 is from 2011... first year, too many issues. 2nd person to report engine failure, both 2011.

[beegeezy]

Originally Posted by philipm785

I'm no mechanic, but isn't it possible to fix rod bearing issues without an entirely new engine?

It depends on if it has spun a bearing and the bearing material has contaminated the block. But yes, rod bearings can be replaced proactively to save an otherwise good engine.

OP, find a reputable bmw or euro car independent mechanic that is comfortable rebuilding the engine, replacing the rod bearings, or swapping in a used engine, depending on what the car needs.

[Kmmitchct]

Originally Posted by beegeezy

It depends on if it has spun a bearing and the bearing material has contaminated the block. But yes, rod bearings can be replaced proactively to save an otherwise good engine.

OP, find a reputable bmw or euro car independent mechanic that is comfortable rebuilding the engine, replacing the rod bearings, or swapping in a used engine, depending on what the car needs.

That’s exactly what they say happened. ‘Spun a bearing and the bearing material has contaminated the block’. What is frustrating is I faintly heard the clicking a year ago with extreme acceleration and brought it in and they couldn’t figure out what was up. Said they couldn’t hear it and it was probably nothing. In hindsight I should of insisted something was wrong.

Thanks. I have an appointment for next Friday. Meanwhile I am looking at the 2020 540i xDrives just in case. Better check out that forum to see if there are any warning signs with that engine to look out for

[beegeezy]

Originally Posted by Kmmitchct

That’s exactly what they say happened. ‘Spun a bearing and the bearing E material has contaminated the block’. What is frustrating is I faintly heard the clicking a year ago with extreme acceleration and brought it in and they couldn’t figure out what was up. Said they couldn’t hear it and it was probably nothing. In hindsight I should of insisted something was wrong.

Thanks. I have an appointment for next Friday. Meanwhile I am looking at the 2020 540i xDrives just in case. Better check out that forum to see if there are any warning signs with that engine to look out for

Unfortunately, you’re looking at a complete engine replacement, and need to replace anything that could have been contaminated with bearing material (i.e. turbo, oil cooler, lines, etc.)

[Trainwreck914]

I purchased a non running 2011 535i at auction thinking it could be an easy fix. Nope. It threw the rod. I don't know the history of it. But I have seen way too many of these failures. In fact so many that there should probably be a class action lawsuit for it.

[M_Bimmer]

Let's look at data:

N55B30A P/N: 11002210427 01/2009 - 12/2011 = 24 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 01/2011 - 03/2012 = 13 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002249005 04/2012 - 07/2014 = 28 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002413122 07/2014 - 10/2016 = 28 month production

So every F10 535 that had the N55 engine and based on the data, 2011 F10's and early 2012 F10's had an engine that had a necessary issue deemed by BMW that cut that version of the engine to stay on the production line only half the life of the other N55 variations. That's pretty telling.

...so if your N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 fails, it should be replaced by N55B30A P/N: 11002413122.

I'd say BMW agrees with previous posts that 2011 vintage has an issue that would have a higher failure rate than all other variations.

Note: I could not find any data that supports that the F10's in the USA ever came equipped with an N54 engine....may be someone can point me to that info.....

[EDIT] The engine part number above is for the short block only (head + block only). Part numbers for fully assembled engines have a lot more variations and number of part numbers.....

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Let's look at data:

N55B30A P/N: 11002210427 01/2009 - 12/2011 = 24 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 01/2011 - 03/2012 = 13 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002249005 04/2012 - 07/2014 = 28 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002413122 07/2014 - 10/2016 = 28 month production

So every F10 535 that had the N55 engine and based on the data, 2011 F10's and early 2012 F10's had an engine that had a necessary issue deemed by BMW that cut that version of the engine to stay on the production line only half the life of the other N55 variations. That's pretty telling.

...so if your N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 fails, it should be replaced by N55B30A P/N: 11002413122.

I'd say BMW agrees with previous posts that 2011 vintage has an issue that would have a higher failure rate than all other variations.

Note: I could not find any data that supports that the F10's in the USA ever came equipped with an N54 engine....may be someone can point me to that info.....

[EDIT] The engine part number above is for the short block only (head + block only). Part numbers for fully assembled engines have a lot more variations and number of part numbers.....

I don't think any F10 anywhere had the N54.

[HotSpicyChicken90]

bring the car to a bmw-specialist. They will be able to repair it without replacing the whole engine!

The Subframe and oilpan have to be removed as well as the zylinder-head. From down under you should be able to replace the rod-bearing and from the top (after the piston have been removed) you will be able to replace all main-bearings

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Let's look at data:

N55B30A P/N: 11002210427 01/2009 - 12/2011 = 24 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 01/2011 - 03/2012 = 13 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002249005 04/2012 - 07/2014 = 28 month production
N55B30A P/N: 11002413122 07/2014 - 10/2016 = 28 month production

So every F10 535 that had the N55 engine and based on the data, 2011 F10's and early 2012 F10's had an engine that had a necessary issue deemed by BMW that cut that version of the engine to stay on the production line only half the life of the other N55 variations. That's pretty telling.

...so if your N55B30A P/N: 11002218257 fails, it should be replaced by N55B30A P/N: 11002413122.

I'd say BMW agrees with previous posts that 2011 vintage has an issue that would have a higher failure rate than all other variations.

Note: I could not find any data that supports that the F10's in the USA ever came equipped with an N54 engine....may be someone can point me to that info.....

[EDIT] The engine part number above is for the short block only (head + block only). Part numbers for fully assembled engines have a lot more variations and number of part numbers.....

As a 2011 owner, built 3/2011, I'm following keenly.

Looking around the parts system for my vehicle, I don't see the chain of those part numbers.

Apparently, my short engine PN is 11002218263 or 11002218264 for an exchange. As a matter of fact, realOEM says none of those part numbers are found anywhere in the parts diagrams for my car.

Starting with 11002218257 as the search, I see it was used in:

5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR71) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR72) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (FR73) : Short Engine

Mine is a type FU73.



Continuing some of the same:

Part 11002210427 was found on the following F10 vehicles:

5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR71) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR72) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (FR73) : Short Engine


Part 11002249005 was found on the following F10 vehicles:

5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR71) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR72) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (FR73) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (5B11) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (5B12) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (5B13) : Short Engine


Part 11002413122 was found on the following F10 vehicles:

5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR71) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (FR72) : Short Engine
5' F10, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (FR73) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (5B11) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, EUR, (5B12) : Short Engine
5' F10 LCI, 535i, Sedan, N55, USA, (5B13) : Short Engine



So none of your engine numbers match my vehicle type.

Bouncing through from the "select a vehicle" screen. The FRs all appear to be RWD and the FUs are AWD. So the AWD engines are different? Or it's just a matter of a few different tapped holes meaning a different part#? (surprised an auto manufacturer would do that for efficiency sake).

Anyways - might be even more complicated than presented above. You would THINK that with all of the document leaks from BMW we would have found some N55 technician overview talking about how oil passages were modified in subsequent revisions and the like. realOEM only seems to say that one of those part numbers was actually ENDED (as in DON'T USE) and that was the 11002249005. All the rest were just superceded and have no end date.

Time to actually get around to sending those used oil samples in to Blackstone....

[HotSpicyChicken90]

give me your full vin i can check for you

[Nickco43]

I have a 11/2010 build date and this is what came up for me:

[M_Bimmer]

Post #9 stated that early F10 535's came with N54s, to which I asked if someone could provide supporting data....RealOEM doesn't show any F10 535 variation coming with anything other than an N55.

Anyway, a couple of things...I don't claim that I provided short block engines part numbers that were delivered in any ones car. There is just to many part numbers. What I did was look ONLY at replacement short blocks that were in BMW's part bin available for replacements to your factory installed engine...this shortens the list of Part Numbers. The data shows that 2011 engines available for replacement was only offered for 1/2 the time period as other versions of the N55 engines....which, to me, indicates that the 2011 engines, those installed on the production line, or those offered from the production line for replacements, were prone to failure within the short block.

Too many data points, in this situation, dilutes the point....my next look will be engine blocks, then main shafts, then main bearings...I bet one or more drove the short life of the 2011 short block...just saying.

Cheers.