[qintian]

Guys... thats hell tight of space and very limited vision.. how you guys accomplish this mission? or just drive in to bmw center and ask for help?

[ezaircon4jc]

Originally Posted by qintian

Guys... thats hell tight of space and very limited vision.. how you guys accomplish this mission? or just drive in to bmw center and ask for help?

Changing a fuse behind the glove box? I use a flashlight and long needle-nose pliers.

[clark_tony@hotmail.com]

How do you figure out which fuse to check. The diagram in my fuse box is very confusing. 2010 535I Wagon.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by clark_tony@hotmail.com

How do you figure out which fuse to check. The diagram in my fuse box is very confusing. 2010 535I Wagon.

Since you didn't explain WHAT is confusing you about the fuse index I guess breaking it down into detail may be helpful.

I dont have the actual fuse diagram for you model model year...but I can upload an image of the f06 fuse index as an example...and hopefully it will help demystify your fuse index.

The upper left shows a small icon with a bunch of numbers next to it. Those little icons represents what the fuse is for...and the box to the right of it reveals which fuse # controls that function. The little icon's are also the ones used on the switches inside the car...so if you're stumped as to what the icon is for...compare it to the little icons on the switches around the car...as well as in the owners manual. (Example, the icon circled in red is for the sunroof...if you look at your sunroof switch, you'll see the same little icon on the button that operates your sunroof)

The fuse indices along the button (left & right side) shows where the fuse is located in the glove box area (fuse #1 - fuse #67) and trunk area (f#100 - F#204) as well as the fuse's amperage.

The upper right side shows an illustration/diagram of the glovebox and trunk fuse locations...and again, it shows where the numbered fuses are located within each location's fuse box.

[cdmulders]

Originally Posted by clark_tony@hotmail.com

How do you figure out which fuse to check. The diagram in my fuse box is very confusing. 2010 535I Wagon.

Since you mention you have a 535i wagon from 2010, is your BMW by chance an E61 vice F10? This might make using the F10 references a bit confusing.

[wdekok]

Originally Posted by Panos5

Yesterday after returning to my recently locked car, my driver's door lock wouldn't open even with a double exterior handle pull. I realized that when locking and unlocking the car the passenger doors locks where staying up. The lights would flash and the horn would beep as usual.
I was able to open the drivers door with the mechanical key. The driver's door will lock on command but not unlock without the mechanical key. I manually pushed the other 3 door locks down and they havent unlocked since. The car starts up fine so I doubt its the car battery. I've read of single door actuators failing but all 4 at once is too coincidental. I also read that weak key fob battery can lead to soft touch feature problems but if the car receives the remote signal or if the interior central lock button is pressed, I'm not sure how the FOB battery plays a role. I plan to change them shortly anyways. Any other things I should check? Any particular fuses that have been known to cause this when blown? There are 10+ door lock fuses listed and the ones in the glovebox are going to be fun without the passenger door open....
Thanks in advance!

Panos
2011 535i Msport

To be absolutely sure ... this is a F10 or F11 model where you changed fuse #14?

[goeh]

Hello all.
Same issue with my car. F10 530d 2010.
Fuse #14 was blown. I have changed it and it’s working as before

[goeh]

Originally Posted by brohr

I had this issue and was able to get my locks to work after replacing the 15 AMP fuse in the glove box. After the first time, they worked for another 4-5 months; however, I have now replaced that same fuse 3 times in the past week. Did anyone else have continuing issues with this? If so, were you able to pinpoint the issue? I have been reading and researching anything I can find on the internet to try to solve the issue myself. I am thinking I may have a short somewhere in the wires, possibly the ones in the driver's door leading to the locking mechanism, and I have read that maybe I just need to cover them with electrical tape. I just don't want to take apart the door panel if there is an easier fix or other possible reason that there is a surge in electricity that is causing my fuse to blow.

Did you solve the issue?
I want to be prepared for actuator replacement…

[greenmachine]

I am having the same issue with my F10. I have changed the fuse#14 3 times in the last 2 weeks. From what I have read so far, it seems like a door actuator is going bad. The issue is which one, how do I find out? The central locking button locks and unlocks all doors. When locking the car with the key, all door actuators are activated. None of them are visibly slower than the rest. What makes it harder to find out is that after changing the fuse, everything (key remote, comfort access and central locking button) works fine.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by greenmachine

I am having the same issue with my F10. I have changed the fuse#14 3 times in the last 2 weeks. From what I have read so far, it seems like a door actuator is going bad. The issue is which one, how do I find out? The central locking button locks and unlocks all doors. When locking the car with the key, all door actuators are activated. None of them are visibly slower than the rest. What makes it harder to find out is that after changing the fuse, everything (key remote, comfort access and central locking button) works fine.

On the E39 - this was a symptom of the fuel filler door lock failing. Any chance it's that? Is your fuel door properly locked when the car is locked? Crap - do F10s even do that? I think so... I agree tracking it down will be aggravating.

I wonder if you'd be able to do something like this - fiddle with the fuse block until you can get a digital ammeter in line (I saw someone post a link one time to test rigs made just to do this) with the fuse that's blowing. See if there's a way (like leaving one door open at a time) to stop individual actuators from moving and watch the max current when operating the door locks. (dislaimer - I can't remember if it's standard behaviour that a door doesn't lock if it's ajar when the button is pressed).

[greenmachine]

Surly73 - using a multimeter to measure the current to try and isolate the faulty actuator is a good idea. I looked for the test setup that can do this but nothing came up in google. The only thing that came up were fuse taps...used to add devices, which is different. For now, I have disconnected the CA plug inside the drivers/passengers side door handles. Seems to be working so far (fingers crossed). It is disappointing that a 2014 vehicle is having these issues...BMW needs do some quality control, makes me wonder if the car is worth keeping. It is dream to drive no doubt!

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by greenmachine

Surly73 - using a multimeter to measure the current to try and isolate the faulty actuator is a good idea. I looked for the test setup that can do this but nothing came up in google. The only thing that came up were fuse taps...used to add devices, which is different. For now, I have disconnected the CA plug inside the drivers/passengers side door handles. Seems to be working so far (fingers crossed). It is disappointing that a 2014 vehicle is having these issues...BMW needs do some quality control, makes me wonder if the car is worth keeping. It is dream to drive no doubt!

I will try to locate the info/thread I had where someone posted a debugging procedure they were working through including amazon links to the measurement devices they were using. I had never personally seen anything like it and took mental note of it. No idea if I took and REAL notes