[335iNavyGuy]

Ok, so when i try to crank the motor with plugs in it sounds like this - If i crank without plugs in, it sounds normal and spins freely. Just looking for some ideas overall

*100% NOT a battery issue* 2 jumper boxes plus 13.4v on battery.

[ezaircon4jc]

Hasta be spark or fuel. Sounds like the starter is spinning. Is it engaging?

[M_Bimmer]

You need three things for combustion to occur, fuel, spark and oxygen...so it should be pretty easy to validate all three....and based on the noise and the "long-run" start condition, I would start with the fuel...(or immobilizer)

For the fuel,
- Fuel in the tank: There are two cells that make up the fuel tank, and if the cross over pump isn't working, it will look like you have fuel in the tank, but no fuel will actually make it to the engine
- Fuel Pump: Bad pump or no electrical power will result in no fuel delivery to the engine
- Primary Fuel Filter: Could be 100% clogged
- Pre-fuel rail filter/regulator: Could be 100% clogged
- Fuel Injectors: no electrical power

For spark:
- If you start your engine in succession with a strong gas smell, but fail to start the engine, it would be an indicator that your coils aren't creating spark...I would suspect that the plugs would not all fail at once, but also, I wouldn't suspect that all of your coils have failed at once either....partial failure will just result in a rough running car, or will start, but not run very well, so this issue would most likely be an ECU issue

For Air:
- A bad MAF could result in a no-start
- A throttle body that remains 100% closed during start/run will result in a no start/run

Misc:
- Problem with the immobilizer
- ECU failure
- Low voltage on Engine harness (even if the battery is 13.5VDC) or bad ground
- Blown fuses on any number of sensors, pumps, relays and/or modules
- Disconnected/broken wires on engine harness from ECU

Hope this give you some things to check

Cheers

[335iNavyGuy]

I understand all of that lol, the problem is that the engine WONT CRANK over - Sounds like its cranking very hardly, and wont go more than a rotation or two.

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

You need three things for combustion to occur, fuel, spark and oxygen...so it should be pretty easy to validate all three....and based on the noise and the "long-run" start condition, I would start with the fuel...(or immobilizer)

For the fuel,
- Fuel in the tank: There are two cells that make up the fuel tank, and if the cross over pump isn't working, it will look like you have fuel in the tank, but no fuel will actually make it to the engine
- Fuel Pump: Bad pump or no electrical power will result in no fuel delivery to the engine
- Primary Fuel Filter: Could be 100% clogged
- Pre-fuel rail filter/regulator: Could be 100% clogged
- Fuel Injectors: no electrical power

For spark:
- If you start your engine in succession with a strong gas smell, but fail to start the engine, it would be an indicator that your coils aren't creating spark...I would suspect that the plugs would not all fail at once, but also, I wouldn't suspect that all of your coils have failed at once either....partial failure will just result in a rough running car, or will start, but not run very well, so this issue would most likely be an ECU issue

For Air:
- A bad MAF could result in a no-start
- A throttle body that remains 100% closed during start/run will result in a no start/run

Misc:
- Problem with the immobilizer
- ECU failure
- Low voltage on Engine harness (even if the battery is 13.5VDC) or bad ground
- Blown fuses on any number of sensors, pumps, relays and/or modules
- Disconnected/broken wires on engine harness from ECU

Hope this give you some things to check

Cheers

[M_Bimmer]

If this is the "flood" vehicle....please ignore my email....I didn't make the connection until now...

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

If this is the "flood" vehicle....please ignore my email....I didn't make the connection until now...

It is yes, and no worries the attempted help is still appreciated.

[Trainwreck914]

Sounds very odd as there is no pause in between. It just sounds like it ramps up. Could be a compression issue. Stuck piston rings? Can you post a clip of it without the spark plugs? Try pouring a spoonful or 2 of oil down each spark plug hole. Then try cranking over again.

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

Sounds very odd as there is no pause in between. It just sounds like it ramps up. Could be a compression issue. Stuck piston rings? Can you post a clip of it without the spark plugs? Try pouring a spoonful or 2 of oil down each spark plug hole. Then try cranking over again.

I can yes, it cranks over smooth without plugs in. And i had ATF in there for about a week to prevent and rust that might have started.

When i crank without plugs, it blows out anything inside.

[Trainwreck914]

What I mean is pour oil in then reinstall the plugs. It used to work well on my e39 after "bore wash". I know there's no bore wash here being direct injection. But being that water got in there, could have seized up the piston rings. Just a "shot in the dark". But worth a try.

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

What I mean is pour oil in then reinstall the plugs. It used to work well on my e39 after "bore wash". I know there's no bore wash here being direct injection. But being that water got in there, could have seized up the piston rings. Just a "shot in the dark". But worth a try.

Well my point is, if the rings were Seized it wouldnt crank like it does without plugs right?

[Boosted M5]

Engine sounds slow. We know the starter is new, oil is new, I'm assuming spark plugs as well. If you put oil in the cylinders, as much as this helps to lubricate the walls and what not, I've found that adding oil through the spark plug tubes sometimes hinders restart. What I did notice in the video you don't even get a sputter indicating that you have no ignition/spark event what so ever. You'll have to verify fuel/spark/compression. GL!

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Boosted M5

Engine sounds slow. We know the starter is new, oil is new, I'm assuming spark plugs as well. If you put oil in the cylinders, as much as this helps to lubricate the walls and what not, I've found that adding oil through the spark plug tubes sometimes hinders restart. What I did notice in the video you don't even get a sputter indicating that you have no ignition/spark event what so ever. You'll have to verify fuel/spark/compression. GL!

Well i dont think its turned over enough to even get to an ignition stroke, its barely rotating at all.

Also plugs are new, but sadly coil packs are not. Ordered and got new ones with the plugs, and they are the wrong packs.

But for now, im just trying to identify the Slow crank

[Trainwreck914]

Just replaying the video. It's about 5 seconds of "crank". So you don't even get a full revolution on the crank itself? Spark and fuel would not create a no crank situation. Engine would still crank with those elements missing.


Just racking my brain here. I know. Don't hurt myself. Lol. But considering water damage to electrical components. Could a bad alternator or voltage regulator keep amperage high enough under load for a strong crank? Just a thought.

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

Just replaying the video. It's about 5 seconds of "crank". So you don't even get a full revolution on the crank itself? Spark and fuel would not create a no crank situation. Engine would still crank with those elements missing.


Just racking my brain here. I know. Don't hurt myself. Lol. But considering water damage to electrical components. Could a bad alternator or voltage regulator keep amperage high enough under load for a strong crank? Just a thought.

That is a good thought, maybe i should run a dedicated 2 or 4 gauge wire straight to the starter.. since the control signal is still working. *alternator has 12v applied at all times*, but if its a limited 12v.. it could be the issue.

[Trainwreck914]

Been a few days??? Any luck?

[335iNavyGuy]

Originally Posted by Trainwreck914

Been a few days??? Any luck?

Sorry yeah, starter was bad, and water was getting into the REAR cylinders . Found the intakes were still completely full of water.

Update here: