[dbs600]

Any insight / thoughts / guesses as to what this noise may be?

It’s a low / deep delayed resonating rattle / reverberation after driving over imperfect roadway / road ruts, but most easily reproducible over speed bumps.

Sometimes seems like it’s coming from the front, but other times feels like it may be coming from the rear. Nonetheless, emanating from under the car.

The dealer has not been able to pinpoint / resolve, which is very upsetting.

Thank you.

[top ramen]

Damn, it could be lots of things the way you drive over them speed humps. Driving your F10 over bumps like it's a truck.

[Pierre Louis]

It's hard to tell from the video. Sorry you're having a rattle problem.

The four times I had a rattle, only one was from a car fitment - dealer put a new cup holder in. Another time it was the front passenger seatbelt hitting the B pillar (will go away when you pull it up into the top roller). The other two times were with stuff I had in the car cubbies one on the door the other in the cupholder that I didn't think would rattle.

[Cvx5832]

^ This. The quiter the cabin the more you notice the noises it seems. The car itself is solid.

Now that Pierre mentions it the passenger seatbelt on the B pillar noise sounds exactly like that. Click it in or move it up.

[dbs600]

Thank you everyone.

It's not the cupholder or seatbelt buckle, thanks though.

I'm OCD and hypersensitive, so would've been able to pinpoint those had it been either/or.

I believe it's something more involved since the dealer wasn't able to figure out.

[dbs600]

Hi everyone,

Hope all is well.

Dealer replaced both front wheel bearings and both upper and both lower control arms.

I was told the car was ready for pick up, but upon a road testing to ensure the noise was gone, it’s now worse than before!

How the dealer told me the car was ready is beyond me. They apparently did not road test after the work!

They then get back to me stating the radiator support is cracked and has play, which would be an additional $1,500.

I visit and they show me the crack. Pictures attached. I google and find part number 17117575245, which retails for less than $200. Not sure where they get $1,500 for a less than $200 part? Could they really think I’d believe there’s a whole work day of labor involved?

The play is such that if you push up on the support where it’s cracked, it shifts up, whereas it doesn’t on the side that’s not cracked.

I suppose the front bumper needs to be removed to see what if anything else is damaged, but any thoughts on whether or not this one part is likely the cause of the sound?

Also, is this one part the only part holding the radiator in place, or are other parts holding it in place as well? (meaning that those other parts may be damaged too)

Guess I’ll need to take the car to a body shop. :|

Thank you.

[dbs600]

Also seeing on the RO that the left front spring was replaced, and that the thrust arm bushings were recommended, but not replaced...(?) Thank you.

[czarodzi]

That sounds really similar to what I hear over bumps.... I had run over a curb with the driver's side front wheel and after a heck of a time (close to three months) going back and forth with insurance and two shops I accepted the car back. Not perfect but it's back finally, and I have been trying to track down the cause of that sound that wasn't there before my accident.

On a gentle single bump like those speed bumps there's a single knock or thump heard. If the road is rough or uneven there are several knocks or thumps. It's most prominent with just the front driver's side wheel going over the rough spot - you feel the bump of the wheel as the suspension reacts and hear that almost at the same time.

Control arms, strut, bearings, bushings, and a lot of other parts had been replaced, and recently I've found postings referring to a service bulletin stating that the electric steering rack should be replaced when performing repairs on the front suspension. I haven't been able to find a way to isolate it and haven't yet been willing to lay out more funds to replace parts without clear diagnosis.

[dbs600]

Originally Posted by czarodzi

That sounds really similar to what I hear over bumps.... I had run over a curb with the driver's side front wheel and after a heck of a time (close to three months) going back and forth with insurance and two shops I accepted the car back. Not perfect but it's back finally, and I have been trying to track down the cause of that sound that wasn't there before my accident.

On a gentle single bump like those speed bumps there's a single knock or thump heard. If the road is rough or uneven there are several knocks or thumps. It's most prominent with just the front driver's side wheel going over the rough spot - you feel the bump of the wheel as the suspension reacts and hear that almost at the same time.

Control arms, strut, bearings, bushings, and a lot of other parts had been replaced, and recently I've found postings referring to a service bulletin stating that the electric steering rack should be replaced when performing repairs on the front suspension. I haven't been able to find a way to isolate it and haven't yet been willing to lay out more funds to replace parts without clear diagnosis.

Wow; thank you for your most detailed post!

Based upon what you've described, I do feel that our noises are the same.

Can you please, please, please keep me posted with any success you may have tracking the noise down and resolving it?

Consider having your radiator support check and kindly report back.

My best, and good luck to us both!

[dbs600]

Hi everyone,

Hope all is well and that you’re staying hydrated during this heat wave.

To resolve the noise referenced in this thread, the following part needs to be replaced on my 2011 F02 BMW 750Li xDrive:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/17117575245/

It's the radiator housing / support / carrier, which the radiator slips into.

Can someone please let me know what work needs to be done to access the part so it can be replaced?

I’m going to have the dealer replace it because they’re already going to be replacing the radiator, but I’d like some insight as to what other labor may be needed to get to this part and replace it as well (so to ensure the dealer isn’t charging for overlapping time they're already covering for the other work).

The following work is going to be done at this time:

OIL COOLER LINES
REAR MAIN ENGINE OIL SEAL
RADIATOR
STARTER
FRONT AND REAR MOUNTS
TENSION STRUTS

If you can provide insight as to any overlapping labor and what if any additional labor may be needed to get to the radiator module carrier; it would be extremely helpful.

Please kindly advise at your earliest convenience.

Thank you so very much.

My best.

[originaluser]

Thanks for sharing!