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02-14-2022, 01:42 PM | #1 |
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G30 Mirror retrofit DIY
Thanks to Hoa for making me want to do this retrofit
The G30 mirror is relatively easy to retrofit into the F10. This guide is specifically for those with the KAFAS camera, but for those without it, it should be largely the same. Only difference is that the mount for KAFAS is just a hunk of metal, while FLA cars will have a doodad on it: Things you'll need: T20* Feeler gauges Your hands G30 mirror: KAFAS: 51166822492 - No homelink 51166822493 OR 51169459440 - Homelink FLA: 51166822494 - No homelink 51166822495 OR 51169459441 - Homelink *Note: Unsure if it's actually T20. Might be smaller, like a T15. Used for removing the torx screws holding in the homelink buttons on old mirror Removing the mirror: The housing is essentially a clam. Push inwards firm-ish-ly on the seam, and it'll literally split open like a clam. Then, pull it apart from the bottom of the housing. Next, grab the mirror and, as per newTIS (no joke), jerkily push the mirror down. Please, for the love of god, push it parallel to the windshield's slope, otherwise you risk damaging the windshield. During removal, you might loosen the KAFAS camera a bit. Not a big deal, just push it back into the spring holder (circled) Swapping the mirror mount: The G30 mirror mount is not compatible with the plastic housing on the F10, but the actual mounting mechanism is the same, so you can just swap it between mirrors for an OEM-like end product. First, unpin the housing. There's no other way to get the wire out of the mount. I am unsure if the connector between the G30 and F10 are interchangeable, but given that you have to unpin the connector anyhow I just reused the F10 connector. Wire pinning is the same between F10 and G30, so refer to these pictures: Pins: Red (3), white/black (6), blue (9), brown (10) Remove the ball mount from the mirror. This is the hardest part of the retrofit, since it really requires some gorillaing of the mount while also trying not to break the glass. What makes it extra difficult is that it's hard to get a good hold on the mirror. Comparison of the two mounts (note: the balls look like different sizes, but they're roughly the same. It's just the photo angle that makes them look like they're very difference sizes): The easiest way to get a better grip is to actually disassemble the mirror so that you can get your fingers in the housing, and you no longer need to worry about breaking the glass. The housing is surprisingly durable. In order to disassemble, you'll need to use feeler gauges as shims along the top of the mirror, and gently separate the two pieces. Be careful with the F10 mirror, as the front frame is a separate piece holding the glass in. It's a tad flimsy, so be gentle on the F10 mirror. There's also some kind of metal strip that clips onto the F10 glass. Not sure what it's for, but it just clips onto the glass. Don't be alarmed if it unclips during the disassebly process. The homelink button on the F10 mirror is held in by some T20* (see above note) screws and a plastic bracket. Once both mirror mounts are removed, the easiest way I found to push the ball of the F10 mount into the new housing is to spray some WD-40 on the ball, put the housing face down on a towel/carpet, wrap the base of the mount in a towel so your hands don't hurt like hell after, and just lean on it downwards with your body weight and give it a quick jerk. Shouldn't be terrifically hard. Before/After: Impressions: The autodimming is a lot more responsive compared to the F10 one. Overall, it's just a bit of a sleeker mirror and, while not totally frameless, matches the interior very well. They match the frameless euro mirrors very well. The biggest benefit for those who use homelink a lot is that the homelink buttons on the G series mirrors are one touch rather than press and hold. They're also more tactile. Overall difficulty of retrofit: 4/10. Hardest part is the mount swap.
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02-15-2022, 09:25 PM | #2 |
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Very helpful post! Will be doing this at some point. How did you decide what part number you need?
I have KAFAS, HBA, Lane Departure, no Active Cruise Control |
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02-15-2022, 09:28 PM | #3 |
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The only two things you need to find out is if you have homelink (garage door openers) and what camera (KAFAS or FLA). Everything else is irrelevant, see the part numbers in the post.
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02-15-2022, 09:31 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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03-10-2022, 10:00 AM | #6 |
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It reflects light!
In all seriousness, it's a sleeker looking mirror and reacts to the autodimming stuff a lot faster than the F series mirror.
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09-17-2023, 08:04 PM | #7 |
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I currently don't have garage opener buttons , can I install one with garage opener?
All homelink shenanigans are inside the rear view mirror? So for this diy I will retain my old camera? |
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09-19-2023, 02:06 PM | #8 |
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Yes to all your questions.
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09-20-2023, 12:52 AM | #9 |
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So my car doesn’t have FLA or KAFAS. Either mirror should work right?
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09-21-2023, 09:44 AM | #10 |
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I believe so.
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09-21-2023, 11:49 PM | #11 |
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can confirm its the same process without those two sensors. clarity of the glass is definitely a huge difference along with the one touch buttons. to remove the ball mount, i just wrapped it in a bunch of towels and used my knees to hold it down as i yanked. sketchy but worked well 😅
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11-13-2023, 09:00 PM | #13 | |
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If you are looking to add KAFAS, you will need a new windscreen. KAFAS requires a special mount and have a heating element around it. If you are already doing that, have them to install a newer model windscreen so that the mount would be more updated. |
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