[harmz]

Hi all! Recently I decided to give my 530ds intake a clean!

In the process thought I'd remove the swirl flaps…has anyone else done this and felt a loss of low end torque ?

[Blue Angel]

I have the North American 535dX, same as the 530d elsewhere, and I'm curious as well though I'm not sure why you'd remove them if everything is still working properly?

My last car was a Chevy Cruze with the 1.4L turbo gas engine and it had stationary flaps. A popular mod on that engine is to remove those flaps. I bought a spare manifold and did it.

I did notice a slight loss in low end, but my car was a manual and I drove it at very low revs most of the time. Someone with an automatic would likely never notice the difference.

I have a feeling those flaps exist as much for emissions as anything else.

[fritsprive]

Depending on the engine, the removal of the flaps could lead to a check engine light on. Be aware of that, an ECU remap is then needed.

[fritsprive]

Sorry, forgot to say that on the B47, B57 and N47 and N57 engines the swirl flaps are more reliable, but especially on the older m47 and m57 they are sure to fail at one point....

[COUWK]

I also believe they exist more for emissions than any other reason.
I have not performed this yet, but at 220k+ i imagine i will need to clean the intake at some point in the near future.
If, and when. I can post my results.

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

I have the North American 535dX, same as the 530d elsewhere, and I'm curious as well though I'm not sure why you'd remove them if everything is still working properly?

My last car was a Chevy Cruze with the 1.4L turbo gas engine and it had stationary flaps. A popular mod on that engine is to remove those flaps. I bought a spare manifold and did it.

I did notice a slight loss in low end, but my car was a manual and I drove it at very low revs most of the time. Someone with an automatic would likely never notice the difference.

I have a feeling those flaps exist as much for emissions as anything else.

[COUWK]

If i understand correctly in how they are in the manifold physically; a long rod goes from both ends through all the flaps.
If you remove it, you can bolt the motor/unit back on and it won't know the difference.
So it should not throw any codes.
Again, i'll have to try it.

Originally Posted by fritsprive

Depending on the engine, the removal of the flaps could lead to a check engine light on. Be aware of that, an ECU remap is then needed.

[COUWK]

Did you remove the flaps?
From what i've heard, by removing them, there will be an increase in your fuel consumption.
A slight loss in low end torque.

Any results you can share?

Originally Posted by harmz

Hi all! Recently I decided to give my 530ds intake a clean!

In the process thought I'd remove the swirl flaps…has anyone else done this and felt a loss of low end torque ?

[Blue Angel]

If you haven't seen them yet, YouTube poster Nut Job has some good videos on this. Unfortunately he spun a bearing shortly afterwards and never really followed up on his successes with the swirl flaps. He does have some excellent DIY content on F10/11 repairs.

[COUWK]

Thanks for the info.
I took a look; That's an amazing channel....
Too bad about the spun bearings Hope i never experience that.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

If you haven't seen them yet, YouTube poster Nut Job has some good videos on this. Unfortunately he spun a bearing shortly afterwards and never really followed up on his successes with the swirl flaps. He does have some excellent DIY content on F10/11 repairs.

[COUWK]

....b.t.w, did you remove yours?

I have NA spec 535d, 2014 m.y.
Curious.

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

If you haven't seen them yet, YouTube poster Nut Job has some good videos on this. Unfortunately he spun a bearing shortly afterwards and never really followed up on his successes with the swirl flaps. He does have some excellent DIY content on F10/11 repairs.

[Blue Angel]

If I understood correctly, his car was an ex police car with 177,000 miles on it and probably hundreds or even thousands of hours idling as well. I would think from a engine bearing wear perspective as well as an intake manifold sludge buildup perspective, that his car would be an extreme case compared to what most people's cars go through. At least I'm hoping that's the case anyway!!!

My Canadian '16 535d (same as yours, 530d elsewhere) is fully intact and only has about 62,000 miles on it (100,000 km). I do plan to remove the pipe between the throttle body and intake manifold to get a feel for how much gunk is built up in there, and will plan to clean it before it gets anywhere remotely close to how bad his was.

I don't see anything pointing to an epidemic of failed high mileage N57's so I'm reasonably confident in the longevity of this power train. They've been in the F10 since 2011, and in many other models as well.

I do plan to do shorter than scheduled oil changes (~8k miles) as I don't plan to deal with main bearings or timing chains… that's just ugly work! Shorter OCIs should also minimize oil blow by and sludge buildup. Should.

[COUWK]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

If I understood correctly, his car was an ex police car with 177,000 miles on it and probably hundreds or even thousands of hours idling as well. I would think from a engine bearing wear perspective as well as an intake manifold sludge buildup perspective, that his car would be an extreme case compared to what most people's cars go through. At least I'm hoping that's the case anyway!!!

My Canadian '16 535d (same as yours, 530d elsewhere) is fully intact and only has about 62,000 miles on it (100,000 km). I do plan to remove the pipe between the throttle body and intake manifold to get a feel for how much gunk is built up in there, and will plan to clean it before it gets anywhere remotely close to how bad his was.

I don't see anything pointing to an epidemic of failed high mileage N57's so I'm reasonably confident in the longevity of this power train. They've been in the F10 since 2011, and in many other models as well.

I do plan to do shorter than scheduled oil changes (~8k miles) as I don't plan to deal with main bearings or timing chains… that's just ugly work! Shorter OCIs should also minimize oil blow by and sludge buildup. Should.

I've been looking at his videos. Very helpful.
You're right; i think being a cop car, it woulda been abused.

Are you in the Ottawa area? Did you just get it recently?
100k is brand new Just broken in...


I've owned since 2017, and it's been a dream this whole time. (except my transmission)

I've been using Liqui-Moly Ceratec since i bought it. Not sure if it's helped, but 1.5-cans at every oil change so far.
Cheap insurance i feel.

But, with this EGR system, a shorter interval would be beneficial.

[COUWK]

Meant to ask; what oil do you use?

Normally I use Liqui-Moly Longtime High Tech 5W-30

The last case I bought was: KLONDIKE 5W-30 Euro Low SAPS
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Best price I've seen: and Penguin pickup is near experimental farms.
https://germanparts.ca/parts/lm20002...ceratec-300ml/

[Blue Angel]

I've been using Penzoil Euro LX:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...9357p.html#srp

On sale right now, I need to pick up a couple jugs on my way home this afternoon.

I started a thread on BITOG regarding oil and some knowledgeable people shared a wealth of information:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...-30-40.338461/

Yes, I'm in Ottawa and bought this car in Montreal in November last year, but it started life leased to a dentist in Markham. It had 85k on it when the lease ended so it didn't qualify for CPO and got traded.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851151

I grew up in Port Perry if you know where that is, 15 min north of Oshawa, moved here in 2009. I don't miss Toronto traffic!

Care to share about your transmission issues? Agreed, my car is just getting broken in, but I want to minimize the breaking as much as possible!

[harmz]

Originally Posted by COUWK

Did you remove the flaps?
From what i've heard, by removing them, there will be an increase in your fuel consumption.
A slight loss in low end torque.

Any results you can share?

from the OP i had broke the swirl flap motor and replacing this fixed the power loss, but no i havent seen any loss in power or fuel its actually idles alot smoother and feels nicer to drive

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by harmz

from the OP i had broke the swirl flap motor and replacing this fixed the power loss, but no i havent seen any loss in power or fuel its actually idles alot smoother and feels nicer to drive

Do you think the improvements could be from cleaning the intake, or did you do this in two stages, cleaning and then swirl flap removal?

[COUWK]

Hello, meant to respond to this, and life got in the way

Check out the following thread:
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1856322

I did a transmission oil/pan fluid/change and something went wrong. A-Clutch got stuck on and roasted the entire clutch assy., (no material left on the clutches)

All that being said. I should have just left the transmission alone as it was driving perfectly fine; just wanted to do a little preventative maintenance to prolong it.
ZF recommends it, and I've changed fluid in auto-tragics many times before.
Still not sure what happened in the end. Even the shop that rebuilt it is puzzled.

It's driving great now; I do feel the rebuild helped in the end, but not sure I'd do it again for the 5k bill...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

I've been using Penzoil Euro LX:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...9357p.html#srp

On sale right now, I need to pick up a couple jugs on my way home this afternoon.

I started a thread on BITOG regarding oil and some knowledgeable people shared a wealth of information:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...-30-40.338461/

Yes, I'm in Ottawa and bought this car in Montreal in November last year, but it started life leased to a dentist in Markham. It had 85k on it when the lease ended so it didn't qualify for CPO and got traded.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851151

I grew up in Port Perry if you know where that is, 15 min north of Oshawa, moved here in 2009. I don't miss Toronto traffic!

Care to share about your transmission issues? Agreed, my car is just getting broken in, but I want to minimize the breaking as much as possible!

[COUWK]

About the oil, i took a look at the thread; very helpful indeed.

Initially, I did struggle trying to find oil for this diesel engine, and maybe i was too worried because i didn't want to foul up the exhaust, DPF and SCR system.

In the end using a low SAPS oil is key i believe.

Unfortunately Canadian Tire does not carry any product that has that spec., at least i have not seen one yet.

Seeing as you've been running this for some time now, are you able to read your DPF status? Whats the remaining distance before it needs to be changed/cleaned?

I have ~226k on the dial and remaining life is about 91k
I'm curious if the oil used will have an effect on soot production.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

I've been using Penzoil Euro LX:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...9357p.html#srp

On sale right now, I need to pick up a couple jugs on my way home this afternoon.

I started a thread on BITOG regarding oil and some knowledgeable people shared a wealth of information:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...-30-40.338461/

Yes, I'm in Ottawa and bought this car in Montreal in November last year, but it started life leased to a dentist in Markham. It had 85k on it when the lease ended so it didn't qualify for CPO and got traded.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851151

I grew up in Port Perry if you know where that is, 15 min north of Oshawa, moved here in 2009. I don't miss Toronto traffic!

Care to share about your transmission issues? Agreed, my car is just getting broken in, but I want to minimize the breaking as much as possible!

[Blue Angel]

The next time I have BimmerLink hooked up I'll check it out. I believe last time it said it was good for about 270k km (90 on car and 180 remaining) but that's a guess based on poor memory.

I would think there's no way of the car actually knowing when the dpf will die, likely just a calculated figure based on mileage and consumption? I'd love to be proven wrong if anyone knows for sure.