[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

I decided to go with SuperPro links. Spherical end links just aren't worth it for street use

Do you have a link to the end links?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Do you have a link to the end links?

https://superprousa.com/products/trc...y-bar-link-kit

Doesn't say on the site for some reason, but adjustment range is from 254 (or 245? Some sites say 254, some say 245, so let's assume shortest length and go with 254) - 305mm.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

https://superprousa.com/products/trc...y-bar-link-kit

Doesn't say on the site for some reason, but adjustment range is from 254 (or 245? Some sites say 254, some say 245, so let's assume shortest length and go with 254) - 305mm.

Interesting, what is the bolt size? Per their instructions you should installed these at a 90* angle which is impossible with the angles on our car... so annoying.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Interesting, what is the bolt size? Per their instructions you should installed these at a 90* angle which is impossible with the angles on our car... so annoying.

M12

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Interesting, what is the bolt size? Per their instructions you should installed these at a 90* angle which is impossible with the angles on our car... so annoying.

Oh forgot to mention, I'm running M5 front sways, which don't create a funky angle in my experience.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Oh forgot to mention, I'm running M5 front sways, which don't create a funky angle in my experience.

Interesting- I would like to see pics!

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Interesting- I would like to see pics!

Will do once they're installed.

[Unspec]

Update: SuperPro TRC12200 end links work great with the M5 bar. It's not perfectly neutral, but it's likely because I used too many washers lol. Will play around with it a bit, but overall it works well and the end link studs aren't at any extreme offset angles. I applied anti-seize liberally to the threaded section that go into the body to help prevent any rusting issues.

The one different thing with these end links is that the counter hold isn't in the stud, but rather is a hex flange thing-y. Requires a thin access wrench to counter hold, and not sure on size (I think it's something like 16-17mm), but it's a minor thing. Some folk probably prefer it this way as well, I know I do.

Second photo is illustrating the bar end difference. Original is left side one, M5 on the right

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Second photo is illustrating the bar end difference. Original is left side one, M5 on the right

Excellent pic. Looks like you shouldn't be using standard F10 links with the M5 sway bar for that very reason. You can see here how the stock links have a different angle at one end to accommodate the F10 sway bar:

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Blue Angel

Excellent pic. Looks like you shouldn't be using standard F10 links with the M5 sway bar for that very reason. You can see here how the stock links have a different angle at one end to accommodate the F10 sway bar:

[IMG]https://www.rockauto.com/info/11/AMG..._ANG__ra_p.jpg[/IMG]

Exactly the point of this whole thread :-). Finding the right length end links AT the right ANGLE for our cars. The H&R sways have the angled end like the stock ones… maybe that's what I will modify so I can use generic end links

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Update: SuperPro TRC12200 end links work great with the M5 bar. It's not perfectly neutral, but it's likely because I used too many washers lol. Will play around with it a bit, but overall it works well and the end link studs aren't at any extreme offset angles. I applied anti-seize liberally to the threaded section that go into the body to help prevent any rusting issues.

The one different thing with these end links is that the counter hold isn't in the stud, but rather is a hex flange thing-y. Requires a thin access wrench to counter hold, and not sure on size (I think it's something like 16-17mm), but it's a minor thing. Some folk probably prefer it this way as well, I know I do.

Second photo is illustrating the bar end difference. Original is left side one, M5 on the right

I missed you post, ty for the pictures!!!

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Exactly the point of this whole thread :-). Finding the right length end links AT the right ANGLE for our cars. The H&R sways have the angled end like the stock ones… maybe that's what I will modify so I can use generic end links

I was reading along and found it tough to picture. Good to know about the H&R sways as well, thanks!

[Bmwdoubles_]

Bringing this back up because I am looking to upgrade my endlinks. I'm running the M5 swaybar with stock endlinks with my car lowered by 1", and I noticed I had put a lot of load on the swaybar to get the endlinks to fit.

I don't want the sway bar already loaded up because of the wrong length. I've tracked the car several times and not had an issue with turn-in, but I guess I won't know until I have the correct length.

I found this M7 Speed for minis which, as we know, is BMW and the bolt is an M12.

https://www.m7tuning.com/m7-maxx-g-h...-cooper-510500

I'm just unsure of the length. I think it might fit because I'm lowered.

Thoughts?

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

Bring this back up because I am looking to upgrade my endlinks. I'm running the M5 away with stock endlinks with my car lowers by 1", and noticed I really had put a lot of load on the swaybar to get the endlinks to fit.

I don't want the sway bar already loaded up because of the wrong length. I've tracked the car several times and not really had a issue with turn in, but I guess I won't really know until I have the correct length.

I found this M7 Speed for minis which as we know is BMW and the bolt is a M12.

https://www.m7tuning.com/m7-maxx-g-h...-cooper-510500

I'm just unsure of the length. I'm thinking it might fit because I'm lowered.

Thoughts?

I wouldn't order those, they cause cancer in CA. True story.

The issue with our links is not the bolt size for length but the fact that they are not square. The lower end link has a slight angle on it so if you want to be in a neutral position with no load (or full range of motion on the joint) then you would need to match that angle… that is my dilemma.

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

I wouldn't order those, they cause cancer in CA. True story.

The issue with our links is not the bolt size for length but the fact that they are not square. The lower end link has a slight angle on it so if you want to be in a neutral position with no load (or full range of motion on the joint) then you would need to match that angle… that is my dilemma.

How do they cause cancer? Also that metal clucking sound is 100% the M5 under load. I don't as under the car when it was sitting on ramps. Twisted the front sway to see if d it was loose and it made that metal clicking sound. The M5 doesn't sit right in our cars and especially if you're lowered. I don't see how these aftermarket could be worse when the angle on both top and bottom are wrong due to be lowered and the M5 not being right for our cars.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

How do they cause cancer? Also that metal clucking sound is 100% the M5 under load. I don't as under the car when it was sitting on ramps. Twisted the front sway to see if d it was loose and it made that metal clicking sound. The M5 doesn't sit right in our cars and especially if you're lowered. I don't see how these aftermarket could be worse when the angle on both top and bottom are wrong due to be lowered and the M5 not being right for our cars.

Prop 65, lol. Basically, 99% of products will have a "This product causes cancer in CA" because Prop 65 states that you must verify your product doesn't cause cancer, and if you don't it's assumed that it does. So most companies just throw the disclaimer on instead of spending the money verifying.

I got SuperPro ones for the M5 bar as well, as mentioned further up in the thread:
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=30

M12 as well and fits fine, they're all based on pretty simple concepts and materials. M5 sway bars don't have the square issues as much as non-M5 sways, as the M5 sway bar ends are more square.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Prop 65, lol. Basically, 99% of products will have a "This product causes cancer in CA" because Prop 65 states that you must verify your product doesn't cause cancer, and if you don't it's assumed that it does. So most companies just throw the disclaimer on instead of spending the money verifying.

I got SuperPro ones for the M5 bar as well, as mentioned further up in the thread:
https://f10.5post.com/forums/showpos...8;postcount=30

M12 as well and fits fine, they're all based on pretty simple concepts and materials. M5 sway bars don't have the square issues as much as non-M5 sways, as the M5 sway bar ends are more square.

Ah, if the m5 sways are more square then those should work great!

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Update: SuperPro TRC12200 end links work great with the M5 bar. It's not perfectly neutral, but it's likely because I used too many washers lol. Will play around with it a bit, but overall it works well and the end link studs aren't at any extreme offset angles. I applied anti-seize liberally to the threaded section that go into the body to help prevent any rusting issues.

The one different thing with these end links is that the counter hold isn't in the stud, but rather is a hex flange thing-y. Requires a thin access wrench to counter hold, and not sure on size (I think it's something like 16-17mm), but it's a minor thing. Some folk probably prefer it this way as well, I know I do.

Second photo is illustrating the bar end difference. Original is left side one, M5 on the right

How do you determine the neutral position and set the adjustment height on the adjustable sway link?

I was thinking:

Option 1
measure the stock and adjust the difference according to the amount that I've lowered my car. So for me it's (stock sway link length - 1")

Option 2
Measure the center of the hub to the top of fender while the car is on the ground. Disconnect the sway, Jack the car up, second Jack brings up the hub to the same as ground position, and then fit sway links.

For both options 1 and 2, the entire front end off the ground and perform it uniformly.

Also it talks about benefits of preload which mine are for sure, but that random clicking sound is awful on a daily. Grant it, it's over slow twists and turns, but it bothers me. So neutral is what I want daily.

Plus I read about some lowered E90 folks who did the adjustable and they're claiming the harshness over bumps has gone away and claiming a night and day difference. Looking forward to doing mine. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794197


Also props to Luky for posting specs

Front end links stock 300mm
Godspeed 250-310mm M12 PN: SB-TR-180-12
Superpro 245-305mm M12 PN: TRC12200
Eibach 255mm-285mm M12 PN: UEL-12-255HD

Rear end links stock 110mm; M10 on one end and M12 on other? (based on nuts showing on real OEM)

May have to get Superpro (85-100mm) M10 end links (PN: TRC1025A) and M12 end links (PN: TRC1225A) and swap one end of each to make two sets of "F10 rear adjustable" end links...

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1699556


Unspec how are those Superpro links holding up? Noises, etc?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

How do you determine the neutral position and set the adjustment height on the adjustable sway link?

I was thinking:

Option 1
measure the stock and adjust the difference according to the amount that I've lowered my car. So for me it's (stock sway link length - 1")

Option 2
Measure the center of the hub to the top of fender while the car is on the ground. Disconnect the sway, Jack the car up, second Jack brings up the hub to the same as ground position, and then fit sway links.

For both options 1 and 2, the entire front end off the ground and perform it uniformly.

Also it talks about benefits of preload which mine are for sure, but that random clicking sound is awful on a daily. Grant it, it's over slow twists and turns, but it bothers me. So neutral is what I want daily.

Plus I read about some lowered E90 folks who did the adjustable and they're claiming the harshness over bumps has gone away and claiming a night and day difference. Looking forward to doing mine. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794197


Also props to Luky for posting specs

Front end links stock 300mm
Godspeed 250-310mm M12 PN: SB-TR-180-12
Superpro 245-305mm M12 PN: TRC12200
Eibach 255mm-285mm M12 PN: UEL-12-255HD

Rear end links stock 110mm; M10 on one end and M12 on other? (based on nuts showing on real OEM)

May have to get Superpro (85-100mm) M10 end links (PN: TRC1025A) and M12 end links (PN: TRC1225A) and swap one end of each to make two sets of "F10 rear adjustable" end links...

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1699556


Unspec how are those Superpro links holding up? Noises, etc?

No noises, they're doing great. I slathered the ball joint studs that go into the adjustable section with anti-seize, and I recommend you do the same. M5 sway bars are bonded to the bushings at the neutral position, so just detach the sway bars, measure the distance, and aim for that. Do not try anything with the front end off the ground, you must be in the normal position to get the correct measurement. I did it on ramps.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

How do you determine the neutral position and set the adjustment height on the adjustable sway link?

I was thinking:

Option 1
measure the stock and adjust the difference according to the amount that I've lowered my car. So for me it's (stock sway link length - 1")

Option 2
Measure the center of the hub to the top of fender while the car is on the ground. Disconnect the sway, Jack the car up, second Jack brings up the hub to the same as ground position, and then fit sway links.

For both options 1 and 2, the entire front end off the ground and perform it uniformly.

Also it talks about benefits of preload which mine are for sure, but that random clicking sound is awful on a daily. Grant it, it's over slow twists and turns, but it bothers me. So neutral is what I want daily.

Plus I read about some lowered E90 folks who did the adjustable and they're claiming the harshness over bumps has gone away and claiming a night and day difference. Looking forward to doing mine. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794197


Also props to Luky for posting specs

Front end links stock 300mm
Godspeed 250-310mm M12 PN: SB-TR-180-12
Superpro 245-305mm M12 PN: TRC12200
Eibach 255mm-285mm M12 PN: UEL-12-255HD

Rear end links stock 110mm; M10 on one end and M12 on other? (based on nuts showing on real OEM)

May have to get Superpro (85-100mm) M10 end links (PN: TRC1025A) and M12 end links (PN: TRC1225A) and swap one end of each to make two sets of "F10 rear adjustable" end links...

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1699556


Unspec how are those Superpro links holding up? Noises, etc?

I did a video on this on YouTube.

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by Unspec

No noises, they're doing great. I slathered the ball joint studs that go into the adjustable section with anti-seize, and I recommend you do the same. M5 sway bars are bonded to the bushings at the neutral position, so just detach the sway bars, measure the distance, and aim for that. Do not try anything with the front end off the ground, you must be in the normal position to get the correct measurement. I did it on ramps.

Got it so detach sway links while resting on ramps and adjust the sways accordingly

[Blue Angel]

Correction:

"Got it so detach sway links while resting on ramps and adjust the end links accordingly"

If you want an A+, put the front on ramps and jack the rear off the ground using the central jacking point. This will allow the front suspension to settle without being influenced by any unevenness in the ground.

This is also a great way to set up each corner height using coilovers if you don't have a known flat surface to work from.