[Surly73]

I took note that Steve Dinan spoke specifically about sealing of the monoball assembly against intrusion of dirt/water/contamination. My 535 is a year round DD in the Great Lakes area - lots of water, road salt etc....

I don't see any positive indication that Turner monoballs are sealed. The information page talks about the BALLJOINT (when sold in a suspension arm) being genuine BMW, sealed and lubricated, but not the monoball for 100% certainty.

Are these suitable to all season daily drivers I wonder?

[Bmwdoubles_]

Arrived!

[BimmerHausPerformance]

I'm excited for your feedback on the difference, and also how well sealed those monoballs are based on the comments from Surly.

[Sylverlee]

Nice! interested to hear a review.

[BTTW]

Mine have been sitting here for months waiting for me to put them in as the clunk gets worse and worse. You know how the life of a technician is, never want to work on your own stuff
Then the “add 1 quart of oil” light came on
...Then I was checking the coolant and noticed the cap is broken…

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by BTTW

Mine have been sitting here for months waiting for me to put them in as the clunk gets worse and worse. You know how the life of a technician is, never want to work on your own stuff
Then the "add 1 quart of oil" light came on
...Then I was checking the coolant and noticed the cap is broken…

Haha I know working on your cars requires a boost of motivation and time. The clunking is picking up for me but then my shock mount bolts stripped and now everything clunking. I can't handle it anymore so now I'm motivated.

[top ramen]

damn that came in super fast, you paid for over night shipping? What brand are the arms?

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by Sylverlee

Nice! interested to hear a review.

I'm also interested to hear about any increased harshness. I feel like I'm going down the rabbit hole with the F10, even though I don't wish to be "highly modified".

It's kind of off topic, but I also think about replacement bushing sets like KMAC, which add back all of the adjustments missing in the factory layout. Camber, Castor and toe would be adjustable up front if a full conversion to KMAC bushings was done. (https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/)

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by top ramen

damn that came in super fast, you paid for over night shipping? What brand are the arms?

If I had to guess, Lemforder. Pricing out the arms (from FCPEuro) and the monoballs individually comes out to 547ish, which is really close to the pre-installed price. Genuine BMW arm is almost triple the cost of the Lemforder, and FCP lists the Lemforder arm as OE.

[Bmwdoubles_]

They're installed but haven't tested them out yet. Still working on replacing the strut mounts.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Look forward to your impressions!

[BimmerHausPerformance]

What's the word!?

[Unspec]

Really tempted to get the monoballs, just not sure if I should replace the arm or not. It only has 50k on it, so not sure if it needs changing yet. Any thoughts?

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

What's the word!?

Going to have to wait until later this weekend. Repairing several items and have the front end apart.

[Bmwdoubles_]

You know what's a pain in the ass? Taking out your struts to replace the strut mount!

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

You know what's a pain in the ass? Taking out your struts to replace the strut mount!

What happened? Stripped the strut mounts?

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by Unspec

What happened? Stripped the strut mounts?

Yeah mounts are made of soft aluminum and the bolts are self tapping you can only do it so many times before they strip. From the time I posted those pictures to the time I'm posting this that was about a five hour job I took it apart three times. What a nightmare to get all the bolts lined up. I might pay for it to be done next time. On the flipside I probably saved myself $15-$2000. If anybody wants to know how to do it without taking it apart three times let me know I'll post a short DIY if anybody's interested.

Now I'm just waiting for my lower front bumper support and bolts to come in. At that point I'll put the front bumper back on and I'll be ready to test the new hardware.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

For 1500 you coulda got some nice coil overs :-D

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

Yeah mounts are made of soft aluminum and the bolts are self tapping you can only do it so many times before they strip. From the time I posted those pictures to the time I'm posting this that was about a five hour job I took it apart three times. What a nightmare to get all the bolts lined up. I might pay for it to be done next time. On the flipside I probably saved myself $15-$2000. If anybody wants to know how to do it without taking it apart three times let me know I'll post a short DIY if anybody's interested.

Now I'm just waiting for my lower front bumper support and bolts to come in. At that point I'll put the front bumper back on and I'll be ready to test the new hardware.

I'd just Helicoil or Timesert the mounts. Never have to worry about it again

[Bmwdoubles_]

Originally Posted by Unspec

I'd just Helicoil or Timesert the mounts. Never have to worry about it again

I thought about doing that but I track my car and didn't want to compromise under intense situation on the track.

[$howtime456]

yea i noticed those bolts strip easily.. missing one on each end of mines. Did the new bolts fix it?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by $howtime456

yea i noticed those bolts strip easily.. missing one on each end of mines. Did the new bolts fix it?

It's not the bolts stripping. The metal hat you see at the top of the strut is what the bolts thread into, and it's the hat that's stripping.

Originally Posted by Bmwdoubles_

I thought about doing that but I track my car and didn't want to compromise under intense situation on the track.

You might have an issue with helicoils, but timerserts are solid inserts. I'm fairly certain the frame where the struts bolt to would break before the inserts would. I've also seen some people source longer bolts, and thread them in from the bottom, and then weld them in place (kinda hard since it's aluminum) to form studs that they just thread nuts on to.