[bushway9172]

Hi All,

Just curious your thoughts on this issue. I have a 2014 535i with under 20k miles. Rotors appear to be warped (again) as the steering wheel is shimmying during normal highway braking. This will be the 3rd of 4th rotor replacement due to warping, starting around 4-5k miles. New rotors fix the issue and the shimmy creeps back a couple months later. So what's the deal? I don't track the car, I don't do many hard stops, but I do enjoy my Sport+ driving at times. I'm on standard M Sport suspension with 20" aftermarket wheels that have been road force balanced and have no imperfections.

I am going to switch back to stock wheels and tires and see if anything changes, though at this point, I feel like an expert as to what warped rotors feel like.

Any ideas? Has anyone switched to Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors on their F10s? Maybe these are just getting too hot? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[splitsensetam]

These rotors are known to warp easily. I am also experiencing the same and looking for a replacement at the moment. I hear the Zimmermann rotors hold up well and are a lot cheaper compared to OEM.

[PJinCA]

I have to say, "warped discs" or the sensation, is almost certainly caused by something else. Rotors being out of true, or improper installation are the most likely causes. When rotors are replaced the hub they sit on MUST be absolutely flat, which means when you remove the old rotor the hub should be cleaned with a wire brush to remove any rust or debris that developed between the old rotor and hub. Then, a step I like to do, the hub should be greased with copper grease on the mating surface so that the rotor does not rust and stick to the hub.
Another important factor: over tightening the lugs. Yes, the rotor is steel, however, if the wheel is not torqued properly and you have 1 or 2 of the lugs much tighter than the others, it can give the sensation of a rotor being out of true.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

[lsturbointeg]

Good info PJinCA

[bushway9172]

Thanks for the replies. Spoke with Eric at StopTech who was very helpful. He said the OEM pads are likely just not conducive to any type of performance driving and have a tendency to leave pad deposits on the rotors. He said this is commonly misdiagnosed as warped rotors, when in fact, the pad deposits are throwing things off. He recommended switching to StopTech pads which will likely solve the problem. To pick up a new set of rotors while I'm at it, I'm looking at one of their "Street Brake Kits" which consists of drilled/slotted rotors and Posi Quiet pads. Thoughts on that?

I could let BMW continue to replace the components under warranty and return with the same issue every few months, or just take matters into my own hands. My only concern is this NOT solving the problem, though I'm sure it will.

Here is a link to the kit: http://www.buybrakes.com/938.34001-p...rake-pack.aspx

[PJinCA]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks for the replies. Spoke with Eric at StopTech who was very helpful. He said the OEM pads are likely just not conducive to any type of performance driving and have a tendency to leave pad deposits on the rotors. He said this is commonly misdiagnosed as warped rotors, when in fact, the pad deposits are throwing things off. He recommended switching to StopTech pads which will likely solve the problem. To pick up a new set of rotors while I'm at it, I'm looking at one of their "Street Brake Kits" which consists of drilled/slotted rotors and Posi Quiet pads. Thoughts on that?

I could let BMW continue to replace the components under warranty and return with the same issue every few months, or just take matters into my own hands. My only concern is this NOT solving the problem, though I'm sure it will.

Here is a link to the kit: http://www.buybrakes.com/938.34001-p...rake-pack.aspx

Stoptech make good products, just remember to follow the "bed in procedure", that is going to be crucial to them wearing right. Also, remember, the bed in procedure can also be followed down the line when/if you get deposits again. The bed in procedure will remove them and save you a trip to the dealer. Good luck bud

My personal bed in procedure:
I find an area with at least a bock or 2 of empty space, like warehouses at night. Then I do 12-14 runs going from 10 to 60 mph back to 10 - DO NOT STOP. Turn around and repeat this until you've done it at least 12 times. Your brakes will smell and there will be smoke coming out. Those are properly bedded. Simply take it easy from there and drive carefully on the way home while they cool. You're good to go

[bushway9172]

Originally Posted by PJinCA

Stoptech make good products, just remember to follow the "bed in procedure", that is going to be crucial to them wearing right. Also, remember, the bed in procedure can also be followed down the line when/if you get deposits again. The bed in procedure will remove them and save you a trip to the dealer. Good luck bud

My personal bed in procedure:
I find an area with at least a bock or 2 of empty space, like warehouses at night. Then I do 12-14 runs going from 10 to 60 mph back to 10 - DO NOT STOP. Turn around and repeat this until you've done it at least 12 times. Your brakes will smell and there will be smoke coming out. Those are properly bedded. Simply take it easy from there and drive carefully on the way home while they cool. You're good to go

Thanks for the tip. Any harm in trying this with my current OEM set-up? My front pads and rotors probably have less than 3k miles on them, so if I gave this a shot with successful results, it would save me from switching to the Stoptechs altogether (or until I actually need new brakes).

[PJinCA]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks for the tip. Any harm in trying this with my current OEM set-up? My front pads and rotors probably have less than 3k miles on them, so if I gave this a shot with successful results, it would save me from switching to the Stoptechs altogether (or until I actually need new brakes).

Sure, you can do it with the OEM setup, it may work. It just depends on the pad composition if the deposits are going to get removed properly.

[bushway9172]

Originally Posted by PJinCA

Sure, you can do it with the OEM setup, it may work. It just depends on the pad composition if the deposits are going to get removed properly.

I'll give it a shot. Thanks again.

[IBOOSTU]

they said buy a bmw it will be fun ..............

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks for the tip. Any harm in trying this with my current OEM set-up? My front pads and rotors probably have less than 3k miles on them, so if I gave this a shot with successful results, it would save me from switching to the Stoptechs altogether (or until I actually need new brakes).

broski, have your stock rotors turned and get some akebono ceramic pads and your problems will be solved, $20 bucks to have them turned and $69-79 for the pads at rockauto.com. This way you wont have any warranty issues or brake dust with the ceramic pads. Ive got them on my car and thier great, no noise no brake dust and no warping or steering wheel shake. Trust me, do this and you'll be done with BS.

PS follow PjinCa on the break in procedure.

[bushway9172]

Thanks all for the help. Here's an update:

Took the car to my BMW dealership. They checked the rotors and determined everything was within spec, so no warping. This furthered the theory of pad deposits. I did some more testing of the car, and after a few hard stops, the steering wheel vibration/shake went away, but it would return shortly thereafter. Definitely seems to point more and more toward the OEM pads.

Just ordered a set of Akebono Ceramic Pads from TireRack and plan to install them next week. Since the rotors are so new and the pad deposits seem to come off during heavy braking, I don't think I should need to have them turned, but I do plan on giving them a good cleaning with brake cleaner before I put everything back together. Any special instructions on changing the pads in the driveway with my mechanic friend? Any special tool needed from BMW? Also, I noticed in my iDrive system, it shows a mileage amount remaining on the front pads. Is this calculated based on mileage from the dealer or is there an actual sensor?

Thanks again.

[dadysev]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks all for the help. Here's an update:

Took the car to my BMW dealership. They checked the rotors and determined everything was within spec, so no warping. This furthered the theory of pad deposits. I did some more testing of the car, and after a few hard stops, the steering wheel vibration/shake went away, but it would return shortly thereafter. Definitely seems to point more and more toward the OEM pads.

Just ordered a set of Akebono Ceramic Pads from TireRack and plan to install them next week. Since the rotors are so new and the pad deposits seem to come off during heavy braking, I don't think I should need to have them turned, but I do plan on giving them a good cleaning with brake cleaner before I put everything back together. Any special instructions on changing the pads in the driveway with my mechanic friend? Any special tool needed from BMW? Also, I noticed in my iDrive system, it shows a mileage amount remaining on the front pads. Is this calculated based on mileage from the dealer or is there an actual sensor?

Thanks again.

Had the same issue. I'm curious. what colour are your rotors? Are they shiny like a mirror, or dull greyish colour?
Mine were the dull greyish colour only to find out that the pads where cracked, and almost like the compound had crystallized. Discovered the rotors don't warp but more likely marked up from bad pads.
I put some new OEM Textar pads on the old rotors. The rotors instantly started to get the mirror finish, better braking and my high speed pluses slowly started to disappear.

Bad pads caused the issues.

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks all for the help. Here's an update:

Took the car to my BMW dealership. They checked the rotors and determined everything was within spec, so no warping. This furthered the theory of pad deposits. I did some more testing of the car, and after a few hard stops, the steering wheel vibration/shake went away, but it would return shortly thereafter. Definitely seems to point more and more toward the OEM pads.

Just ordered a set of Akebono Ceramic Pads from TireRack and plan to install them next week. Since the rotors are so new and the pad deposits seem to come off during heavy braking, I don't think I should need to have them turned, but I do plan on giving them a good cleaning with brake cleaner before I put everything back together. Any special instructions on changing the pads in the driveway with my mechanic friend? Any special tool needed from BMW? Also, I noticed in my iDrive system, it shows a mileage amount remaining on the front pads. Is this calculated based on mileage from the dealer or is there an actual sensor?

Thanks again.

After you replace the pads, go into the menu in the instrument cluster and reset your front brakes. You prolly already did the brakes by now and should have seen the wear sensor on the right front inside pad, if it's not worn reuse it. I reused mine when I put my akebono pads on with my new cross drilled rotors. Don't forget the bed-in process. I will say shortly after I did my fronts the rears started to shake and replaced them with ceramic pads and cross drilled rotors too, that was about a year ago. I drive like a complete asshole everyday and beat on this car like rapist and I have zero brake issues. Sorry for the bad analogys, I can't help myself when trying to get my point across. I hope your brake issues are gone now, good luck

[BLKSAPPE92]

Originally Posted by bushway9172

Thanks all for the help. Here's an update:

Took the car to my BMW dealership. They checked the rotors and determined everything was within spec, so no warping. This furthered the theory of pad deposits. I did some more testing of the car, and after a few hard stops, the steering wheel vibration/shake went away, but it would return shortly thereafter. Definitely seems to point more and more toward the OEM pads.

Just ordered a set of Akebono Ceramic Pads from TireRack and plan to install them next week. Since the rotors are so new and the pad deposits seem to come off during heavy braking, I don't think I should need to have them turned, but I do plan on giving them a good cleaning with brake cleaner before I put everything back together. Any special instructions on changing the pads in the driveway with my mechanic friend? Any special tool needed from BMW? Also, I noticed in my iDrive system, it shows a mileage amount remaining on the front pads. Is this calculated based on mileage from the dealer or is there an actual sensor?

Thanks again.

The BMW 5-Series pads are Akebono pads they are the OE supplier.

The problem is ceramic pads but people complained of replacing rotors to much and brake dust on old BMW. Now you have low noise low dust ceramic pads on your car so your rotors don't wear as much and they are still above spec at a brake change.

Now you get more heat and less wear of rotors causing warping instead wearing. But hey no dust and noise yay.

Never had this issue on a 5 or 7 till BMW decided Akebono ceramics are better fit.


All auto manufacturers that use ceramic instead steel brakes I've found have issue with vibration Toyota lexus Honda and Acura are bad even Chevys

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by Dhoffm80

The BMW 5-Series pads are Akebono pads they are the OE supplier.

The problem is ceramic pads but people complained of replacing rotors to much and brake dust on old BMW. Now you have low noise low dust ceramic pads on your car so your rotors don't wear as much and they are still above spec at a brake change.

Now you get more heat and less wear of rotors causing warping instead wearing. But hey no dust and noise yay.

Never had this issue on a 5 or 7 till BMW decided Akebono ceramics are better fit.



All auto manufacturers that use ceramic instead steel brakes I've found have issue with vibration Toyota lexus Honda and Acura are bad even Chevys

None of what you said is true or remotely correct, akebono is NOT the O.E supplier and bmws Do not come with ceramic pads. They use semi metallics like all other car manufacturers do. Ive been running ceramic pads on all my cars for the last 20 years and I've never had rotors wear out sooner with ceramics, so I know your wrong and you don't know much about cars or brakes. I hope nobody on here takes what your saying as being correct. Do more research before you post nonsense.

[BLKSAPPE92]

My 2011 BMW most definitely has ceramic pads I work in a shop and put metallic ceramic premium ceramic pads on cars all day long and I can tell difference my 2011 f10 550i has ceramic pads and they suck.

My 2009 BMW 335i is semi metallic they dust up my rims but they grab, bite down and wear down the rotors enough I've never had lateral runout

[dadysev]

Originally Posted by Dhoffm80

My 2011 BMW most definitely has ceramic pads I work in a shop and put metallic ceramic premium ceramic pads on cars all day long and I can tell difference my 2011 f10 550i has ceramic pads and they suck.

My 2009 BMW 335i is semi metallic they dust up my rims but they grab, bite down and wear down the rotors enough I've never had lateral runout

At the end of the day most Carbon (oe) pads dust up, awesome grabbing, cold bite, etc. but the ugly trade off is the ole mighty dust!

I'm curious to try the Akebono but they want way to much to get them here in Toronto, Canada, unless someone on here can chime in and give me a good hookup?????

[Teddylongtooth]

Originally Posted by dadysev

At the end of the day most Carbon (oe) pads dust up, awesome grabbing, cold bite, etc. but the ugly trade off is the ole mighty dust!

I'm curious to try the Akebono but they want way to much to get them here in Toronto, Canada, unless someone on here can chime in and give me a good hookup?????

Try rock auto dot. com

[corys530]

I went through this for a few years with my X5, Just something to check---

front lower control arms.......the bushings wear out and cause a pretty bad shimmy, especially when braking from highway speeds ....this was my issue

good luck

[bushway9172]

Been traveling and haven't been able to give this much attention. I spoke with a BMW tech a few weeks back, and he told me I wouldn't be able to change the brake pads without having the vehicle plugged into a machine. Is this total BS? The front brakes were changed probably 3-5k miles ago by BMW.... should the sensor be reusable at this point?

Teddylongtooth - did you put the pads in yourself or did you bring it to a shop?

Thanks again!

[j0nblayz]

i havent done my rears yet, but you can find couple diy's on how to dis-engage the rear e-brakes. And no you dont need to plug the car into a machine. Front's are super easy to do.

I find the oem rotors warp so easy. I usually run oem pads (pagid or textar) with zimmerman's. Always had good luck with that setup.