[MOBF10]

great write-up.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by jbharshman

How much do you think a garage would charge to install this?

I would say an hour or two X labor rate.

[burro_blasta]

Looks like these guys were RWD - anyone know if a DP install for xdrive is very different on our cars?

[burro_blasta]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Looks like these guys were RWD - anyone know if a DP install for xdrive is very different on our cars?

Finding some f30 threads, looks like some people have had to drop the sub frame to get to the dp/turbo connection but others were able to get to it through the wheel well...curious if it'd identical for us

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Looks like these guys were RWD - anyone know if a DP install for xdrive is very different on our cars?

I just did mine on a 2015 535 xdrive. Didn't have to do anything strange wheel well stuff.

Some notes after installing mine:
- Order of doing things to make life easier: Disconnect O2 sensors and feed them down into the engine bay, they will be clipped into various places. Undo the bolt closest to the downpipe that is holding the exhaust to the body. Undo downpipe vband bolt, undo nut and bolt holding downpipe to the bracket, remove downpipe from exhaust, drop entire exhaust. Put vband onto the turbo neck, make sure the bolt is facing down and on the passenger side of the turbo. Replace gasket on turbo. Get new downpipe connected to turbo and get vband connected. Tighten down vband, install and tighten down nut and bolt holding downpipe to bracket, get exhaust system connected to downpipe, reinstall downpipe, enjoy your new downpipe.

- Drop the exhaust. Just do it. It's basically 100% necessary, and it's honestly really easy to drop. Just use your jack to support the middle-ish section of the exhaust, and you can raise/lower the exhaust system as needed.

- Don't need to take any shielding off or anything. There was a conveniently placed hole in the metal underside stiffening plate right under the downpipe that let me access the nuts holding the downpipe to the bracket

- Replace the v band and gasket as per newTIS instructions. Might as well since you're down there anyhow. Part numbers: vband (18307606136) gasket (18307581970)

- Undoing the bolts for the downpipe isn't too bad, just tight and awkward. Having good swiveling extensions is a good idea.

- Your nuts and bolts will be pretty rusty due to all the heating and cooling cycles. Don't need to replace, but not a bad idea either

- Feed some string down the engine bay and tie the O2 sensor connectors to them, it really helps in getting the wires out of the way and fishing them up later

- Downpipe will probably be rusted onto the exhaust system at where the band connects. Heat it up with a torch, and bang that downpipe out with a rubber mallet. I used a screw driver and butt it up against the lip of metal right after the flex section on the downpipe, it got kinda dinged up but nothing too serious.

- Don't tighten up the bracket nut and bolt until the vband is securely installed, otherwise you'll get an exhaust leak. Just loosely install the bolt back in so that the turbo doesn't move around too much, and tighten them down after the vband.

- The vband is a BITCH to get installed right. There's a metal pipe or something that goes really close to the turbo, so you really have to finagle the vband up onto the turbo housing, and then get the downpipe installed. It's tight, it's hard to see, it's awkward, I'd never want to do this part again. The vband will pretty much only fit if it's rotated the right way, with the nut side of the vband pushed up against said metal pipe. Literally the only way I found that gives the vband enough clearance to fit onto the downpipe/turbo connection. Not done yet.

You then have to REALLY press the vband shut. I used a screwdriver with straight extensions so I can push it in from a less awkward position. At some point, friction will hold the vband in place, but it tends to just spring open again if you bump it, so work carefully. It's in a really awkward spot, so unless you enjoy only turning the ratchet an inch at a time, have some extensions on hand. I hated this part. It's pretty much impossible to do if the exhaust is already connected to the downpipe, so this is one of the major reasons the exhaust is dropped. After the vband is connected, if you didn't drop the exhaust, you won't be able to get the downpipe connected to the exhaust. I learned this the hard way and spent another 10 minutes dropping the exhaust fully.

- Heat up the exhaust opening where it connects to the downpipe, but don't heat the downpipe up. It helps a ton with getting the new downpipe onto the exhaust system.

- Make sure to put high temp rated anti-seize on the O2 threads. Do not get it onto the sensors themselves. If you don't do this, the O2 sensors might just rust weld themselves onto your new downpipe in a couple thousand miles.


Torque specs:
Downpipe to bracket: 19nm
V-band bolt: 13nm
O2 sensors: 50nm
Exhaust to downpipe band bolt: 55nm
Exhaust to body: 21nm

Good luck.

Edit: Also, I went to advanced auto to loan an O2 socket set. It makes getting the O2 sensors off and on much easier.

[burro_blasta]

Great notes...this wasn't as bad as I expected. I think a case of the f10 having more room to stretch out than the f30.

Agree having a bunch of socket extensions and swivels on hand is crucial.

Mine fit onto the mid pipe without any issues. Biggest headaches were rusted bolts and, biggest headache, trying to access the upper mounting bolt on the DP

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by burro_blasta

Great notes...this wasn't as bad as I expected. I think a case of the f10 having more room to stretch out than the f30.

Agree having a bunch of socket extensions and swivels on hand is crucial.

Mine fit onto the mid pipe without any issues. Biggest headaches were rusted bolts and, biggest headache, trying to access the upper mounting bolt on the DP

I actually had zero issues with the mounting bolts. Easy on and off for me. Maybe my skinny arms came in handy this time.

[EnhancedHouston]

Nice write up. I’m still debating getting a cat delete or not. If I go thru with it this guide will be handy.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by EnhancedHouston

Nice write up. I’m still debating getting a cat delete or not. If I go thru with it this guide will be handy.

Just get a high flow catted pipe. There's really no reason for catless.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by EnhancedHouston

Nice write up. I’m still debating getting a cat delete or not. If I go thru with it this guide will be handy.

I recommended catted, no fuel smell and a better sound in my opinion

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Just get a high flow catted pipe. There's really no reason for catless.

Cost!?

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

Cost!?

Not needing to huff exhaust fumes is worth paying for.

[BimmerHausPerformance]

I never do... my exhaust is always behind me.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

I never do... my exhaust is always behind me.

Does Chattanooga not have traffic lights?

[BimmerHausPerformance]

Originally Posted by Unspec

Does Chattanooga not have traffic lights?

No, not really lol… we always have a slight breeze too.. keeps the smells away. I actually like the smell of gas. Reminds me what I am driving.

[Unspec]

Originally Posted by BrowBMW

No, not really lol… we always have a slight breeze too.. keeps the smells away. I actually like the smell of gas. Reminds me what I am driving.

Gas or exhaust fumes? I too like the smell of gasoline, but exhaust is terrible.

[lsturbointeg]

come on guys i've had my catless on for some time now and if you're a petro head and you're around race cars and everything the smell of exhaust, gas and burnt tires should only get your senses heightened. my wifey has not complained at all especially during cold starts in the garage