[Sunnyc123abc]

I have a 2012 550i that smoke like a ton. I know its the valve stem seals so I took it to BMW. Basically BMW won't cover the repairs under the class action lawsuit because I have 148k miles on the car. The SA had a chart for percent customers pays vs BMW pays according to miles on the car. 120k miles customer pays 100% is what I saw. They were going to go ahead with the valve stem seal repair but BMW said they won't cover over 130k miles. So now Im thinking to fix it myself which will cost 1k for tool rental and parts, or trade it in. Anyone have any loop holes to get it fixed?

[badblack550xi]

Originally Posted by Sunnyc123abc

I have a 2012 550i that smoke like a ton. I know its the valve stem seals so I took it to BMW. Basically BMW won't cover the repairs under the class action lawsuit because I have 148k miles on the car. The SA had a chart for percent customers pays vs BMW pays according to miles on the car. 120k miles customer pays 100% is what I saw. They were going to go ahead with the valve stem seal repair but BMW said they won't cover over 130k miles. So now Im thinking to fix it myself which will cost 1k for tool rental and parts, or trade it in. Anyone have any loop holes to get it fixed?

A wall

[Sunnyc123abc]

Originally Posted by badblack550xi

A wall

Sales guy at the dealer said the same thing. Gap insurance? There are plenty of mountains out here lol

[elmasry17]

Hello everyone,

So since my car was at the dealer since October 6 2018 for the n63 Engine replacement because i failed the oil consumption many times back in July and augustand i was tiered at 30% contribution , My SA and service manager were really kind enough to give me big discount which made me to pay only 20% instead of 30% and i appreciate that very much. So i just received a call from them this morning saying the car is ready. So i will post service paper work to let you know what is done and i will keep u all posted after i do break-in Engine and see how it performs and let you know about the oil consumption as well. Any tips or advice on how to do a proper break-in on this remanufactured engine?

[Supahone]

Originally Posted by elmasry17

Hello everyone,

So since my car was at the dealer since October 6 2018 for the n63 Engine replacement because i failed the oil consumption many times back in July and augustand i was tiered at 30% contribution , My SA and service manager were really kind enough to give me big discount which made me to pay only 20% instead of 30% and i appreciate that very much. So i just received a call from them this morning saying the car is ready. So i will post service paper work to let you know what is done and i will keep u all posted after i do break-in Engine and see how it performs and let you know about the oil consumption as well. Any tips or advice on how to do a proper break-in on this remanufactured engine?

Congrats on getting the new engine. Can you share what the 20% contribution came up to? and what oil did they recommend?

[elmasry17]

Originally Posted by Supahone

Congrats on getting the new engine. Can you share what the 20% contribution came up to? and what oil did they recommend?

Sure ill post the service paperwork record soon. I will have to cross out the amount because the service manager requested from me not to share this because of the discount that he offered to me as confidential.

Here is the status:

I picked up the car yesterday and drove it for 120 miles and with no full throttle and i kept it under 4000rpm then boom engine malfunction came up and lots of white smoke came out from the exhaust. Went back to the dealer and they couldn't believe that this happened. They were baffled and couldn't understand why. It turned out there was a misfire on cylinder 8 and they will have to see what caused tge misfire. I assume when they replaced the engine they would put new coils and spark plugs but i forgot to ask them if they did. In the paperwork i didn't see any spark plugs or coils were installed. I currently have dinan stage 4 software with dinan intercoolers. When they replaced the engine they used the dinan intercoolers. So for all the experts out there, do you guys think the dinan software is causing the misfires / engine malfunction? I would be pissed off if they say i have to remove it from my car

[535_BiTurbo]

Are you sure its a reman engine or a sourced used engine?

[elmasry17]

Originally Posted by 535_BiTurbo

Are you sure its a reman engine or a sourced used engine?

Remanufactured engine that came from germany and the price was listed on the service paperwork for $13,875 from bmw dealer.

[elmasry17]

Originally Posted by Kyngofpop

A never ending cycle...trash engines

I know bro seriously... Now they said it's a bad fuel injector and they will replace it. I was like why couldn't u replace all injectors while replacing the new engine. They said they had to follow bmw procedures. So dumb!!

[F10BustinMyWallet]

fisrt reply/post...
I took my '11 550i xdrive to a local dealer late last week. It warned of a drivetrain malfunction and put car in limp mode. It has done this before but always cleared itself. Not this time. Dealer said #8 plug oil fouled and causing misfire.

Short story:
car has 98,613 miles
Local dealer (Lithia Auto Group) gave me 4 options:
1)replace valve stem seals and valve covers with no carbon cleaning $4,495
2)same as #1 except the intake system carbon buildup is cleaned $7,877
3)replace with reman engine with BMW paying 40% and me 60% so right around $6k
4)sell them the car for $5500

Dealer says engines are about 6 months out...not sure which route to take. I'm also waiting for quotes from an ind local shop. One ind shop wouldn't even give me a quote! Didn't want to touch the car.

[warpeacelove]

Originally Posted by Supahone

So what are your thoughts on using 0w40 euro blend synthetic oil?

Way to thin of an oil. No protection.

Use 15w-40.


Think of a 10W-40 oil as meaning that the oil is similar in flow to a 10 weight based oil, but when it's hot, it will have the "viscosity" protection of 40 weight oil. It does NOT turn into 40 weight oil like so many people think multi viscosity oils do. They are called "multi viscosity" for a reason, not "multi weight" oil. It isn't meat gravy! It doesn't get thicker when it heats up. Don't believe me? That's an easy one to prove. Check your dip stick when your engine is cold. The oil stays on the dip stick as normal because it is at it's normal, thicker cold "weight". Now check it when the engine is hot, the oil will run off that dip stick like it was thinner than water! Like I said, it ain't gravy and it does not thicken when it gets hot.

20w-50 oil is the same way. Think of it as having the cold flow of a 20 weight oil, and the protection, or "viscosity", of 50 weight oil when it gets to running temperature. This is because the molecules in the oil are kind of like tiny little springs. When they heat-up, they expand, and when they are cold, they contract... in simple terms. This expansion and contraction does not thicken the oil when it gets hot. It still thins-out like any oil does. It just means that a 20w-50 oil will be a little thicker when cold than something like a 10w-30 or a 10w-40 oil would be. This means a 10w-30 or a 10w-40 oil will get to the places it needs to go quicker than a 20w-50 or a straight 30 wt oil will because thinner oil is easier to push and it can get into the tighter clearance places easier than a thicker oil can. It's easier to drink a soda pop through a straw than it is a milkshake. It's kind of along those same lines.

Now, what's a good weight to run in your engine? Most modern car engines have very tight clearances and need thinner oils so the oil can get where it needs to go to do it's job as fast as possible. Thick oil has a hard time getting in tight places or getting where it needs to go until it warms-up and thins out. That's why we always warm-up our performance engines before we started driving or putting any loads on the engine. This makes sure the oil is warmed-up, thinned-down, and has had time to get where it needs to go to start protecting the internals of the engine before loads or RPM is given to it.

Thinner oils have less drag on the oil pump and drive gears, which equates to less parasitic power loss. But again, too thin of oil can also mean less protection under high loads and high heat, so there is no one perfect answer. The problem with thin oil is that most oil and advertising is geared towards the East coast where it is very cold in the Winter so thinner oil is more suited. The West coast almost never gets that cold, so the oils we use out here need to be thicker with higher viscosity numbers. I would never recommend 0w-30 or 5W-30 oil in ANY "American" performance engine, let alone any normal street cars in warm weather. That stuff is like water and can't take the kind of heat and loads of an American performance engine. Import engines use tighter clearances and have different designs than older "muscle car era" American engines have, so when it comes to oil, we aren't talking apples to apples, it's more like apples to oranges. This can go on and on, so I'll try to keep it brief. If you look in a Valvoline catalog under oil recommendations, they recommend 30Wt. in trucks that drive in weather over 80 degrees. Well, that is pretty normal weather for the West coast.

The nitty gritty of oils: Mineral oil is refined, and the refining process is pretty good, but not perfect. Here's how my friend from Redwood Oil explained it to me so it was easy to understand: Crude oil has everything in it, from gasoline to diesel to all of the weights of oil, and each part is processed out of the whole crude oil. Once the oil has been refined out of the crude, also known as "heavies", what they do to get the different weights is by separating the different sizes of molecules that make-up the thickness of the oil.

[goldenbulls]

Anyone know the specs for the replacement motor? The newer N63TU motors have about more horsepower than the N63 motors. I wonder if we will see the bump in horsepower from the replacement motor?

[elmasry17]

Hey everyone!

So after the dealer did the remanufacture engine replacement and still got a misfire it was because of the dinan stage 4 software that i had installed. So they removed it and reprogrammed the ecu the car is running smoothly and way way better throttle response. The master technician instructed me on how to do the break in and not to go ovwr 4500rpm for the first 750 miles and recommended me to do the oil change. My car improved a looooot with way better performance and instant throttle response. I believe the turbo lag is gone or so minimized. As promised im attaching the service paper work and feel free to ask me any questions. I paid 20% instead of 30 as a goodwill loyal customer to them

[elmasry17]

For some reason i cant post an attachment for my bmw service work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just wanna share with everyone what was done on my car

[sam1983]

Took my 2013 550i in last week to run a thorough check before my warranty runs out next month. I always knew that the N63s drink like a fish and keep extra engine oil in the trunk, but I haven't had any major issues over the past few years.

My service advisor told me that BMW is currently a "Customer Care Program" for all the N63 engines which were manufactured between 2009-2013 (at least for the F10s) and since I brought my car in, I could be eligible for that. I don't have much more details but I'm curious what comes out of their tests.

The other N63 issue that is not as frequently touched upon is the battery draw required to keep the engine cool, especially after switching off the car. I'm sure you might have heard the fans continuing to run with the car off to cool the turbochargers, and that puts a lot of stress on the batteries. A few years back, BMW started supplying all N63s with 105 AGMs but seemingly it's just a band aid and not a real fix.

Anyway, will keep you all posted on what comes out. As always really appreciate all the insight everyone is sharing!

[philipm785]

Originally Posted by elmasry17

Hey everyone!

So after the dealer did the remanufacture engine replacement and still got a misfire it was because of the dinan stage 4 software that i had installed. So they removed it and reprogrammed the ecu the car is running smoothly and way way better throttle response. The master technician instructed me on how to do the break in and not to go ovwr 4500rpm for the first 750 miles and recommended me to do the oil change. My car improved a looooot with way better performance and instant throttle response. I believe the turbo lag is gone or so minimized. As promised im attaching the service paper work and feel free to ask me any questions. I paid 20% instead of 30 as a goodwill loyal customer to them

Great to hear and thanks for posting the update. I hope you get to continue enjoying the car for years to come, especially since you now have a 0 mile engine

[Eric_Irishman]

2010 X6 N63 with 105,000 miles. I stopped driving the car in March 2018 when I heard about the suit to keep miles off (replaced with a Cadillac CTS - V sport with an extended warranty).

I took the car to a dealer where a trusted friend was a service writer that was going to try to get the engine repaired so I could sell it. After testing there was no way to sell a repair to BMW due to bad timing chain.

Estimate to replace with re-manufactured motor is

Engine and parts: $6,141 ($600 of misc parts)
$4,100 labor (at $145/hr).

Most parts are on back order.

I'm considering getting an estimate from a local BMW specialty shop. If I have to pay 75% of cost at BMW retail, I might be better off there.

[DG0254]

I dropped off my 2013 550i with South Bay BMW two weeks ago for a new engine. A bearing went bad at 72k miles. BMW NA offered "assistance," which means I'm out of pocket for $4k. The service agent estimated 5 months for a new engine. I have courtesy rental cars until the engine arrives from Germany and they install it.

Is there any news on the "new" engine? I love the car and I would like to keep it if the engine issues have been fixed.

[elmasry17]

Originally Posted by DG0254

I dropped off my 2013 550i with South Bay BMW two weeks ago for a new engine. A bearing went bad at 72k miles. BMW NA offered "assistance," which means I'm out of pocket for $4k. The service agent estimated 5 months for a new engine. I have courtesy rental cars until the engine arrives from Germany and they install it.

Is there any news on the "new" engine? I love the car and I would like to keep it if the engine issues have been fixed.

Hey there!

I paid 20% for theremanufactured engine for my 2011 x5 50i and had to wait for 5months. After the engine installed the car is been running great. Better throttle response and improved performance. I had one misfire because of dinan software so i had to delete and reinstall it again. No more misfire and having a blast. U will still need to add 1 quart of oil every 750 miles which never solved the oil consumption. I recommend to change oil every 4 to 5k.

[BMW_Bob]

Hello Everyone, I am new to this site, but have been following some your stories on the replacement program. I have 2011 X5 110,250 miles and 2012 X6 106,300 miles. BMW of NA has just authorized a replacement (200 miles per liter of oil) for the X5 at the 10% level due to the 250 miles I drove over the threshold. My share will be $9,200 and it will take 11 weeks to get the engine and get it installed. I spoke to 3 different levels of customer service and got the same run around about the class action suit set hard limits and they would not consider adding me back in the 25% category.

My 2012 entered the oil consumption test program yesterday to see what it qualifies for. It only uses a liter of oil every 1,000 and probably won't qualify for much.

In regards to comments about the oil consumption not being fixed. This is not true if the valve guide seals are replaced. If the engine still uses oil, then the repair is faulty.

[Supahone]

This past winter I had the valve guides replaced under the class action at no cost on my 2011 550i with 92k. The oil consumption has not returned as I was losing a quart every 400 miles. I now change the oil every 5k miles using only full synthetic oil.

[elmasry17]

Originally Posted by Supahone

This past winter I had the valve guides replaced under the class action at no cost on my 2011 550i with 92k. The oil consumption has not returned as I was losing a quart every 400 miles. I now change the oil every 5k miles using only full synthetic oil.

Hey there,

So you oil indicator stays full after 5k miles? I got my engine replaced and i still get oil consumption to add 1 quart of oil every 750miles. So your saying after valve guides replacement your not getting oil consumption even at 5kmiles?

Thanks