F10 535d 4 sets of discs in a year

Daviesja · 03-03-2023, 08:12 AM

Hi All
I have an issue with a F10 5s5d MSPort Performance warping brake discs
Around March 22 I took over the car after it had all alloys refurbed , full set of tyres ,service and MOT
April we fitted a set of Delphi discs and pads to the front
3 months later and the vibration started under braking, Complained to the supplier and they sent us a set of Apec Black discs/pads
All was good for a few months then early Oct it started again
Dropped into local MOT station and they confirmed on the rolling road that the fronts where indeed the cause of the vibration. We got them to fit a set of Brembos which returned the car to normal life, that is until Dec when the bloody vibration came back, so of the the local MOT station we went, and sure enough the fronts are playing up again.so another warranty set of Brembos where fitted in early Jan
End of Feb and the vibration is back, light under light and hard braking, very noticeable under moderate braking, and it is through the whole car, the steering does not wobble but I put that down to the electric steering assistance. back the the MOT station for it's MOT and brake diagnosis
It is the N/S front that is causing the issue, and they think it is a sticking caliper. however I am sceptical as up until now everyone has said the calipers are fine. ( I think they will not get another pair under warranty and do not want to bare the cost themselves) I have been measuring the disc temps and both sides are the same whether i brake gently or more vigorously.
I do bed the brakes in for a full tank, I try not to get the brakes red hot before coming to a stop with the pads sat on the disc. in fact she does spend most of the time in eco pro mode as I have driven manual diesels for 30 years and like the early change up at 1,500rpm
Are there any other areas I should look at before I get a large branch and teach it a lesson

HighlandPete · 03-03-2023, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daviesja

Are there any other areas I should look at before I get a large branch and teach it a lesson

It is not at all common for discs to warp. Something else is going on with your setup.

Is anyone actually checking the runout when fitting, also are they measuring when they are saying discs are warped? What are the runout figures?

Are you getting pad transfer? Any pictures of the disc friction surfaces?

BTW, what's the mileage?

Hoa · 03-03-2023, 03:08 PM

Make sure the hub is cleaned so when the new rotor is installed, it sits flush to the hub. Also, lube the sliding pin so it can move freely. If one is stuck, it can cause uneven wear which also may result in a vibration.

walmark · 03-04-2023, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoa

Make sure the hub is cleaned so when the new rotor is installed, it sits flush to the hub. Also, lube the sliding pin so it can move freely. If one is stuck, it can cause uneven wear which also may result in a vibration.

I agree with cleaning the hub, but I’m not sure about putting lube on the sliding pins. Most Euro cars specifically say to clean the pins but not grease them. It makes them sticky from brake dust very quickly.

Daviesja · 03-06-2023, 02:00 AM

I do not have run out figures yet, the garage told me it is the N/S front from the rolling road brake test,only the left needle started moving when the brakes where applied.
I have had many cars over my time and this is the first one that gets through discs like this, on my other cars I have been a lot harder on the brakes but never warped discs like this,I may have worn them out every 2 years,but never warped them, and in fact this bloody car has made me brake a lot earlier than normal to try and prevent the pads sitting on hot discs.
I am being told the caliper is to blame, but I have spent the entire weekend getting out of the car and measuring the disc temperature every time I stop,both sides are within a couple of degrees of each other
I may just send her into my local BMW garage and tell them to sort it once and for all, Or I will sell the bloody thing and get a Jag

Blue Angel · 03-09-2023, 05:34 AM

Sounds like it may be a case of worn bushings. The usual culprit is the large bushings on the lower front control arms where the arms attach to the body.

These bushings can be pressed in, or if the car has higher mileage you can just replace the whole arm since the ball joint is integrated.

These cars have fairly complex suspensions with lots of arms and bushings. If you have high mileage and everything is original you may want to just put a whole front end kit in and start from scratch. Make sure all bushing ends are tightened with the car sitting on the suspension, you don’t want your new bushings getting deformed.

03-03-2023, 08:12 AM	#1
Daviesja Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW F10 535 Msport Performance Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Wets mids iTrader: (0)	F10 535d 4 sets of discs in a year Hi All I have an issue with a F10 5s5d MSPort Performance warping brake discs Around March 22 I took over the car after it had all alloys refurbed , full set of tyres ,service and MOT April we fitted a set of Delphi discs and pads to the front 3 months later and the vibration started under braking, Complained to the supplier and they sent us a set of Apec Black discs/pads All was good for a few months then early Oct it started again Dropped into local MOT station and they confirmed on the rolling road that the fronts where indeed the cause of the vibration. We got them to fit a set of Brembos which returned the car to normal life, that is until Dec when the bloody vibration came back, so of the the local MOT station we went, and sure enough the fronts are playing up again.so another warranty set of Brembos where fitted in early Jan End of Feb and the vibration is back, light under light and hard braking, very noticeable under moderate braking, and it is through the whole car, the steering does not wobble but I put that down to the electric steering assistance. back the the MOT station for it's MOT and brake diagnosis It is the N/S front that is causing the issue, and they think it is a sticking caliper. however I am sceptical as up until now everyone has said the calipers are fine. ( I think they will not get another pair under warranty and do not want to bare the cost themselves) I have been measuring the disc temps and both sides are the same whether i brake gently or more vigorously. I do bed the brakes in for a full tank, I try not to get the brakes red hot before coming to a stop with the pads sat on the disc. in fact she does spend most of the time in eco pro mode as I have driven manual diesels for 30 years and like the early change up at 1,500rpm Are there any other areas I should look at before I get a large branch and teach it a lesson
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03-03-2023, 03:08 PM	#3
Hoa Major 513 Rep 1,356 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: May 2010 Location: GA iTrader: (9)	Make sure the hub is cleaned so when the new rotor is installed, it sits flush to the hub. Also, lube the sliding pin so it can move freely. If one is stuck, it can cause uneven wear which also may result in a vibration.
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03-06-2023, 02:00 AM	#5
Daviesja Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW F10 535 Msport Performance Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Wets mids iTrader: (0)	I do not have run out figures yet, the garage told me it is the N/S front from the rolling road brake test,only the left needle started moving when the brakes where applied. I have had many cars over my time and this is the first one that gets through discs like this, on my other cars I have been a lot harder on the brakes but never warped discs like this,I may have worn them out every 2 years,but never warped them, and in fact this bloody car has made me brake a lot earlier than normal to try and prevent the pads sitting on hot discs. I am being told the caliper is to blame, but I have spent the entire weekend getting out of the car and measuring the disc temperature every time I stop,both sides are within a couple of degrees of each other I may just send her into my local BMW garage and tell them to sort it once and for all, Or I will sell the bloody thing and get a Jag
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03-09-2023, 05:34 AM	#6
Blue Angel Major 998 Rep 1,037 Posts Drives: 2011 323i and 2016 535d Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ottawa, ON iTrader: (0)	Sounds like it may be a case of worn bushings. The usual culprit is the large bushings on the lower front control arms where the arms attach to the body. These bushings can be pressed in, or if the car has higher mileage you can just replace the whole arm since the ball joint is integrated. These cars have fairly complex suspensions with lots of arms and bushings. If you have high mileage and everything is original you may want to just put a whole front end kit in and start from scratch. Make sure all bushing ends are tightened with the car sitting on the suspension, you don’t want your new bushings getting deformed.
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