2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
 

2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 F10 Technical Topics DIY Guides & Discussions N55 OFHG - which gasket brand and part# did you use?
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      04-14-2019, 08:16 PM   #1
Surly73
Lieutenant Colonel
Canada
525
Rep
1,868
Posts

Drives: '11 535xi 8AT KWv3 MPE MHD xHP
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

iTrader: (1)

N55 OFHG - which gasket brand and part# did you use?

Looking at doing the OFHG job. I may or may not have a leak, or it could have been some spillage from an oil change. Also looking at a belt/tensioner/pulley job. Probably a good idea to overlap the labour of all of these jobs looking at where the work is.

I'm compiling the parts listings, comparing ECS, FCP etc... since I'll be ordering from out of country, possibly to a pickup point.

I notice all the shops' kits use Elring gaskets even though they sell genuine BMW. Some searches led me to some information stating that Elring was the OEM, but then BMW updated the gasket design and moved production to a Japanese company, and advice is to go back to genuine for best long term results (since the DIY is a bit of a PITA). If they didn't change the part#, current pipeline stock even from my local dealer could be an obsolete part/manufacturer.

Just wondering what folks have done out there.
Appreciate 0
      04-15-2019, 09:07 AM   #2
lsturbointeg
Lieutenant General
lsturbointeg's Avatar
United_States
9149
Rep
14,522
Posts

Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Asian lost in OH

iTrader: (0)

Not sure the part # but I went OEM. Didn't know there were different makes even tho they say BMW?
__________________
~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~
Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
Appreciate 0
      04-15-2019, 06:31 PM   #3
Surly73
Lieutenant Colonel
Canada
525
Rep
1,868
Posts

Drives: '11 535xi 8AT KWv3 MPE MHD xHP
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Not sure the part # but I went OEM. Didn't know there were different makes even tho they say BMW?
Thanks for responding, but I have to ask a clarifying question. You wrote "OEM" but the rest of your text sounded like you said "genuine".

It's good to know when shopping anywhere for parts - there's genuine/OES, OEM and aftermarket.

Genuine/OES is from the dealer with the car manufacturer's branding on it. Car manufacturers often have multiple suppliers for particular parts (e.g. Lemforder/Febi/Meyle for suspension, or Mahle/Mann/Hengst for filter media or Pagid/Jurid/Textar/Balo/Brembo for brakes) Often all manufacturers meet minimum requirements, but not all are created equal (e.g. Lemforder reigns supreme for suspension parts and I look for them by name).

OEM parts are made by one of these OEM suppliers and are usually to the exact specs of the OES/genuine. When I bought OEM Lemforder parts they were identical to the BMW parts but the BMW logo was ground off. Same mold, same machining, same materials as far as anyone can tell.

Aftermarket is aftermarket. Who-knows-who makes who-knows-what supposedly to fit your application. Maybe it's better (like KWv3 coilovers) and maybe it's not (like sketchy brake rotors and pads).

So, even when buying OEM, nothing says that you're getting the very latest revision of a part unless part#s were updated and everyone's supply chain is on the up-and-up. Frankly, even if you go to the dealer parts counter nothing guarantees the very latest revision I guess. With problematic parts like the OFHG, I'd like to ensure that I got the very latest revision and maybe it will be the only time my N55 will ever need this particular DIY.

It's worth mentioning that even the top OEMs are making single-piece brake rotors for our application even though two piece is called for from the factory. You have to specifically look for two piece, bi-metal construction in order to get it.

Often at parts houses like FCP, ECS, autohausaz, goodbetterbest you will be presented with multiple brands to choose from. I rarely buy parts at the dealer if I can avoid it, unless there's a specific purpose. It's usually a waste of money. I *will* always try to get a true OEM part by brand, however, and even within known OEMs I have favourites for quality.

LOL Sorry if you knew all this
Appreciate 1
      04-15-2019, 06:42 PM   #4
lsturbointeg
Lieutenant General
lsturbointeg's Avatar
United_States
9149
Rep
14,522
Posts

Drives: 2011 535i Jet Black
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Asian lost in OH

iTrader: (0)

Lol sounds like you know more than me! Good info tho and will pay close attention to the next parts i order
__________________
~F90Conversion~21"3Piece Forged AvantGardeWheels~KWV1Coilovers~CQUENCE slotted/drilled rotors~GoodridgeStainlesslines~MeisterschaftQuadEx haust~Akrapovic 4"tips~VRSF DP~VRSF CP~TurboSmart BOV~K&N filter~CarbonFiberExteriorComponents~GladenAlphaCo mponents~MatchUp7BMW~Punch P300-12T~
Follow me on Instagram: lsturbointeg
Appreciate 0
      06-10-2019, 06:01 AM   #5
BurrNinja
Captain
428
Rep
912
Posts

Drives: 2017 540i Bluestone Metallic
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Ohio

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
I recently diy'd known gasket failures. Bought "oem" bmw gaskets listed on there site. Job isnt as bad as some say just takes patience. Also while I was doing ofhg I changed my oil during just let her drip while performing job. Also primed the oil filter once job was done. Took roughly 4~5 hours to do ofhg, belt + tensioner.
__________________
Instgram @burninja
Appreciate 0
      11-12-2021, 03:30 PM   #6
Surly73
Lieutenant Colonel
Canada
525
Rep
1,868
Posts

Drives: '11 535xi 8AT KWv3 MPE MHD xHP
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oakville, Ontario

iTrader: (1)

Well, I finally just did this job.
  • OFH gaskets (BMW)
  • new IM gaskets (Elring)
  • coolant change (BMW)
  • oil change
  • cooling hose change (Rein)
  • serpentine belt (Conti)
  • tensioner (Febi)
  • both idler pulleys (Ina)
  • all new bolts and hardware
  • cleaned up the mess on the block.
  • inspected intake valve cleanliness

This took me a long time, but I was taking my time and working slow. Some connectors and things may have never been apart since 2011 when the car was built and this is a "daily" driver in the salt belt. My "DIY luck" has been declining lately, with more collateral damage than years ago. Things break when being taken apart or silly things happen or whatever. I spent time taping every socket and extension together every time I used it unless the bolt was right on top in my face etc... I was taking no chances.


A few notes from my experience:

I bought the Schwaben vacuum coolant filling apparatus - pretty slick. Pulled vacuum quick with shop air, held vacuum for a couple of minutes confirming no leaks, refilled the entire volume in like 10-15 seconds. Disconnect, run the bleed program, done. Pretty nice. May use it on any car from now on where I don't think there's risk of collateral damage by sucking aging hoses flat with vacuum.

Have an 11mm deep socket for the IM nuts.

Get a real set of hose clamp pliers if you're going to be working on the cooling lines.

I did the oil prime operation 4-5 times with extra rest for the starter. After two times I removed the OF and verified the housing was full of oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATJ5ONHOngY

I think the top Youtube videos for the procedure itself were HowtoDoit and yogi799 though I watched about a half dozen. None of them nails every aspect. Some run into trouble that others did not. Some show better shots and angles of tricks to help out.

I also referenced TIS.

I removed just the one front cross brace above the fan, which the diagonal braces connect to. 5 standard hex head bolts are horizontal, and four are vertical under the headlight access trim. No need to futz with that low clearance T40 in the front that everyone seems to mess around with. I thought this was much easier.

Don't try to do this without removing the fan, or the coolant hose with the Mickey Mouse looking connector. Just don't.

Consider protecting the rad with a piece of cardboard once you remove the fan. Helps to protect the fins and your knuckles from damage.

It was exciting finding missing screws and broken things from the dealer. Only the dealer (under warranty and extended warranty) and I have ever worked on the car, so....

Lots of people say you just need to move the IM aside. BMW says to ALWAYS replace the gaskets if it is unfastened. HowtoDoit doesn't show it in his video, but he has another one where he was chasing a nasty intake leak and admits he should have changed the gaskets. I didn't do the full job to pull the IM right out of the car, but I did swing the IM up and changed the gaskets. I have reason to believe they were factory 2011 original and what was in there had quite a different shape (distortion, heat, age) than the new ones.

So my two test drives have gone OK. No lights, codes or noises. I am nervous, but hopeful that things went OK. Take your time, work slow.

Last edited by Surly73; 11-13-2021 at 08:31 AM..
Appreciate 2
SWFLf10372.00
jimk100.00
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:11 PM.




5post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST