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      01-16-2020, 03:17 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gjohnson7 View Post
Quick video of my Catch Can install.


How to install A $25 Oil Catch Can
THANK YOU!! HOWEVER... How do you get those hoses to pass each other? I've tried and tried to get that 1 1/2" of hoses to pass each other in that 3/4" space? Aren't they crushing each other? Is there enough flow?
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      01-16-2020, 03:22 PM   #46
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They are really tight. It took me some time to figuring out the best way to run them and I'm not completely sold. It would be best if I could have found a hose with a good bend in it, but I gave up looking. From what I can tell there is enough flow however, I will try to post an update in a few weeks when I've had some good time driving it this way.
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      01-24-2020, 11:49 PM   #47
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I messaged FCP Euro and inquired specifically about a catch can/ breather setup for my 14 535 N55 to manage the oil blow by and they sent me all this info about oil additives and what not...-eye roll-
...would like to know if anyone has accomplished a setup on the N55 535....
In the meantime, a close friend is a BG rep here in Kansas City and we've begun selling their intake cleaning kits. It's meant to be a preventative maintenance not a repair (such as walnut blasting) to be done every 15k or so. I need to get my car in the shop and inspect the valves with our new borescope before doing anything then see what's needed from there.

Last edited by BTTW; 01-24-2020 at 11:57 PM..
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      11-16-2020, 11:17 AM   #48
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This is my catch can after around 8k miles. Seems to be mostly water and... I dunno? Rust from the baffles? There's a tiny bit of oil you can see floating around, but it's really a small amount. The rust on the baffles wiped right off, so just surface rust or something. I have a knock off mishimoto can, and so for basically 30 bucks and some labor, it's worth it to me.
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      11-16-2020, 02:53 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
This is my catch can after around 8k miles. Seems to be mostly water and... I dunno? Rust from the baffles? There's a tiny bit of oil you can see floating around, but it's really a small amount. The rust on the baffles wiped right off, so just surface rust or something. I have a knock off mishimoto can, and so for basically 30 bucks and some labor, it's worth it to me.
THANKS! Can you post a pic of how you routed the lines at the intake side? Specifically, how you crossed the lines in the limited space.
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      11-16-2020, 06:19 PM   #50
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THANKS! Can you post a pic of how you routed the lines at the intake side? Specifically, how you crossed the lines in the limited space.
I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it. It was a bit easier for me because I used 1/2" ID tubing for most of the run. This is because I had to step down from 3/4" ID to 1/2" ID, and vice versa for the return line. The catch can I got only has 1/2" barbs, and I couldn't find 3/4" barbs with the correct threading. I doubt the little bit of restriction is gonna be an issue though.
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      11-17-2020, 11:30 PM   #51
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here's how i did mine. no cutting of the engine cover that i heard some people had to do







plenty of room to get my hand underneath to twist off the cup



mine was pretty clean after checking after 4k
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      11-17-2020, 11:53 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
here's how i did mine. no cutting of the engine cover that i heard some people had to do







plenty of room to get my hand underneath to twist off the cup



mine was pretty clean after checking after 4k
Did you consider shrink-wrap instead of electrical tape? I've actually been trying to find a 3/4" to 1/2" hose to deal with the tight quarters where the hoses pass. I just may go your route.
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      11-18-2020, 12:56 AM   #53
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Here's my routing, inlet line is in red, outlet line is in... yellow? White? idk, f.lux makes colors weird lol

Tubing used with link to where I got them from:
3' of 1/2" ID tubing
1' of 3/4" ID tubing

Number one thing to do is make sure you don't kink the hose, and don't let it rub against metal parts. Ideally no rubbing, but plastic won't be as bad as metal, so I'm likely going to be shortening the outlet line. Ideally I would have liked the catch can inlet and outlet to be flipped, but whatever. The outlet end had to be tweaked a bit. If you look closely, I drilled new holes for the bolts to go into so that it's still secure, but rotated clockwise more to allow for more clearance.

I thought about wrapping the tubing in heat wrap to protect them, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't get THAT hot there. We'll see.

In hindsight, maybe the yellow much is from the brass barb adapters? Does oil-y air corrode brass like that?
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      11-18-2020, 01:22 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
Here's my routing, inlet line is in red, outlet line is in... yellow? White? idk, f.lux makes colors weird lol

Tubing used with link to where I got them from:
3' of 1/2" ID tubing
1' of 3/4" ID tubing

Number one thing to do is make sure you don't kink the hose, and don't let it rub against metal parts. Ideally no rubbing, but plastic won't be as bad as metal, so I'm likely going to be shortening the outlet line. Ideally I would have liked the catch can inlet and outlet to be flipped, but whatever. The outlet end had to be tweaked a bit. If you look closely, I drilled new holes for the bolts to go into so that it's still secure, but rotated clockwise more to allow for more clearance.

I thought about wrapping the tubing in heat wrap to protect them, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't get THAT hot there. We'll see.

In hindsight, maybe the yellow much is from the brass barb adapters? Does oil-y air corrode brass like that?
Ahhh.... I see what you did. I tried crossing the hoses where you just went around. Good call as it prevents the hoses from kinking where they would pass. Can you still install the engine cover? I just may have to get back on this project. The intake port on my can is reversible so I can orient the hoses any direction.

THANK YOU!
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      11-18-2020, 02:17 PM   #55
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Thanks to those who have posted specifics on their set up. I would like to get around to this ideally but it's never the next thing to do....

I'm also curious - I've seen reports online of mostly water in the catch cans. Anyone who deals with seriously below freezing weather run one? I could see some interesting gotchas with lines or the can internals freezing up.
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      11-18-2020, 02:46 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezaircon4jc View Post
Ahhh.... I see what you did. I tried crossing the hoses where you just went around. Good call as it prevents the hoses from kinking where they would pass. Can you still install the engine cover? I just may have to get back on this project. The intake port on my can is reversible so I can orient the hoses any direction.

THANK YOU!
Yep, it installs 9/10 pretty much. It doesn't engage one of the posts, but it's still 100% solid and requires effort to pull up.

I used to have a 180 by combining two 90 degree elbows, but I didn't like how restrictive that could be. The best way to do this is to actually flip the thing that goes into the intake plumbing, but the plug gets in the way most of the times (I tried). Maybe it could work if you extend the wire that plugs into that thing, but too much work to be worth it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
Thanks to those who have posted specifics on their set up. I would like to get around to this ideally but it's never the next thing to do....

I'm also curious - I've seen reports online of mostly water in the catch cans. Anyone who deals with seriously below freezing weather run one? I could see some interesting gotchas with lines or the can internals freezing up.
Frozen water really only causes an issue when there's no room to expand. So in this case, it'll be fine. And even if there is ice, it'll melt within minutes of start up
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      11-19-2020, 09:51 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
Frozen water really only causes an issue when there's no room to expand. So in this case, it'll be fine. And even if there is ice, it'll melt within minutes of start up
Doesn't that conclusion depend on how full the can is, how the baffles are constructed etc...? Would ice in one of these cans block flow until it melts and what would the unintended consequences of that be to the rest of the engine/CCV system?
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      11-19-2020, 12:40 PM   #58
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Doesn't that conclusion depend on how full the can is, how the baffles are constructed etc...? Would ice in one of these cans block flow until it melts and what would the unintended consequences of that be to the rest of the engine/CCV system?
While true, the vast majority of the water is in the can. There might be a film of water left in the tubes that can then freeze, but it's not enough water to block anything. You would need a lot of water remaining in the tubes/inlets/etc to actually block flow.
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      11-21-2020, 02:29 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
While true, the vast majority of the water is in the can. There might be a film of water left in the tubes that can then freeze, but it's not enough water to block anything. You would need a lot of water remaining in the tubes/inlets/etc to actually block flow.
Sorry if I was unclear - I do in fact mean that water in the can could freeze and expand blocking mesh, inlet/outlet ports, bending the internals of the can etc...
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      11-21-2020, 03:55 PM   #60
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Sorry if I was unclear - I do in fact mean that water in the can could freeze and expand blocking mesh, inlet/outlet ports, bending the internals of the can etc...
The increase in volume for ice is around 9%. If you have enough water in the catch can for the ice expansion to block things, I think you might have bigger problems to begin with. Also, it does depend a little on the catch can. Some depend on steel wool, so there's less volume to begin with so this is a valid concern, but imo those style catch cans are inferior to the baffled ones.
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      06-08-2021, 06:20 AM   #61
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Thanks for the posting the pics you guys did for ideas. I recently bought a 2014 535 and a little disappointed with the lack of aftermarket support on the simple things like this. Either way been loving the car.
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      06-08-2021, 09:38 AM   #62
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Thanks for the posting the pics you guys did for ideas. I recently bought a 2014 535 and a little disappointed with the lack of aftermarket support on the simple things like this. Either way been loving the car.
I found out why (and posted my findings in a different thread, forget where). N55 cars absolutely don't need them, I pretty much caught just purely water. All it did was add restriction to the PCV system for zero real world benefits. I've since stopped running one.

If you're in florida, expect to be emptying these out of water every couple of weeks. The more humid it is, the more water this thing catches.
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      06-08-2021, 10:05 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
I found out why (and posted my findings in a different thread, forget where). N55 cars absolutely don't need them, I pretty much caught just purely water. All it did was add restriction to the PCV system for zero real world benefits. I've since stopped running one.

If you're in florida, expect to be emptying these out of water every couple of weeks. The more humid it is, the more water this thing catches.
Well that's interesting (and good) news. Here I was beating myself up for still never getting around to doing this...

On EDIT: please record what kind of oil you're running and if you have performed any changes to lower oil or engine temperature. Oil volatility (i.e. usually measured by the NOACK rating) plays a big role in how much oil vapour makes it into this system. Someone running different oil or higher temperatures could have different results than you.

Last edited by Surly73; 06-08-2021 at 10:11 AM..
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      06-08-2021, 10:15 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unspec View Post
I found out why (and posted my findings in a different thread, forget where). N55 cars absolutely don't need them, I pretty much caught just purely water. All it did was add restriction to the PCV system for zero real world benefits. I've since stopped running one.

If you're in florida, expect to be emptying these out of water every couple of weeks. The more humid it is, the more water this thing catches.
Unspec,

Do you think it is worth doing just for the moisture or should I not even worry about it?

Thanks.
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      06-08-2021, 10:37 AM   #65
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Do you think it is worth doing just for the moisture or should I not even worry about it?

Thanks.
Moisture control isn't a thing, water vapor is a natural by product of the combustion process. Don't waste your money on a catch can.
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      06-08-2021, 01:19 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Moisture control isn't a thing, water vapor is a natural by product of the combustion process. Don't waste your money on a catch can.
Right on. Thanks for the info brother.
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